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DamageINC123
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Everything posted by DamageINC123
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What was the code or codes you received?
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I also answered your PM. Before checking air leak swap coil packs to see if problem follows the coils. Make sure they click when reconnecting. Mine does not give a CEL under heavy load. In other words I can put mine in a high gear/low RPM and hold wide open and no CEL. It pulls great. Mine only lights up when driving very aggressive and running into or close to redline.
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1st gear pops out
DamageINC123 replied to gregcz's topic in 986 Boxster Convertible Top Issues and Solutions
Very commomn problem when you have a bad synchro gear. -
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What weight of Mobil 1 to use?
DamageINC123 replied to nissanzx1's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
I am in Upstate SC and was told by two seperate Porsche dealers to use Mobile One Synthetic 0W-40. -
If I am not mistaken a CEL from a misfire will not reset itself. Mine never did. Pull the battery cable long enough to remove the CEL but not long enough to have to reset the radio code. About 20 sec is good.
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Would you say my best bet is letting a dealer look at it at this point? Should i just leave it alone and see if it gets worse. No symptoms when daily driving, just a periodic CEL when running hard (above 6,000 RPMs). The car has 32,800 miles, all service work since day one by Porsche including the 30,000 mile tune up. All oil changes with Mobile One at the dealership. The dealership looked at back in September and said it was MAF and after cleaning it they could not duplicate. A week after I got the car back I was able to duplicate. I replace MAF myself and of course still getting the light. If I remember correctly they said something about lean mixture showing when they plugged up the Durametric software with a laptop. Again not positive but remember a conversation about lean mixture. THANKS FOR ALL WHO HAVE RESPONDED WITH OPINIONS. YOUR HELP IS MUCH APPRECIATED!!!! THANK YOU!!
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I will try cleaning the end of the wires where they plug into the coil. Can you replace the wires going to coil? Thanks Mike
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Thats exactly what I thought as well. So my trouble shooting went as follows. Swapped coil pack 1 with coil pack 2 and coil pack 4 with coil pack 5. All clicked in and plugs tight. Same issue. Misfire 1 and 4. Purchased new plugs for 1 and 4 (Beru Ulta OEM) Nice and snug. Same issue misfire 1 and 4 Purchased new coil packs for 1 and 4. (Beru OEM) Clicked in tight. Same issue misfire 1 and 4 Maybe damaged connectors? Why on at very high RPM? As you can tel I am at a loss. I guess I may have to bite the bullet and take it in to the dealership.
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Thats why I am asking you guys and by the way thats a good point. Lean or rich why just those two. What else should I try?
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1997 968 with 30,000 miles. I have done everything I know to do and still getting a CEL periodicaly when running above 6,000 RPMs. Codes say 301 and 304 which is cylinder 1 and 4. I have replaced MAF and replaced plugs in 1 and 4 as well as new coil. Yes, the coils are "clicked" tight. I also ran a bottle of Techron through the tank. I do not feel the misfire which from what I hear is not unusual. Gas mileage is good and car runs perfect. Idles perfect. Plugs pulled look good. From what I a reading I am beginning to think its a lean/rich issue. If i understood what I read correctly the ECU can only compensate for a lean or rich issue up to a certain RPM. This would explain why I never get a CEL under 6,000. I am open for suggestions. Possible air leak?
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I have 1997. Can anyone tell me which relay controls the fan on the heater/ac. The fuse to the ac and the fuse to the heater are good. I am hoping I have a bad relay. All controls with vents and temp work fine but fan is not blowing. I emailed Loren but not sure if he is on tonight. Thanks
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I notice in the pic that the hoses I mentioned look similar to mine with the dirty oil spot on one of them. Thanks Tool Pants!!!
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Pardon my ignorance on what its called but I think its refered to as the AOS. Its the pump that come on when the engine is cold during start up. My question is when I took a look at the engine the other day i noticed the hoses below this pump look as if some oil had leaked out on them. Not heavy, very light. Sorta like an over flow at one time. I started the car up and felt around but couldnt find anything so I just wiped the hoses off. Could I have a hose loose? Does this pump have something to do with the oil? Car runs fine!! No issues.
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After I got home I was able to trouble shoot the cruise control a little further and traced the issue back to my tail lights. I replaced my tail lights with the DEPO lights to get rid of the amber similar to the newer boxers. Well the DEPO lights use all exsiting bulbs except the brake bulbs. The brake bulbs are replaced with LEDs. You remove the existing bulbs and the LEDS have a plug that fits in the socket where the bulb goes. I guess there is a mechanism thats senses I have no tail light bulbs and shuts the cruise off. Why, I have no idea. Because the LEDS use such low voltage the car would not pick up that anything was plugged in. The fix. I went to autozone and bought a small light and socket used for license plate lumination. I tied it into the wires on the led and this was enough for the car to sense at least one tail light was OK. The light was small enough to hide away in tail light without an isssue. The cruise now works perfect.
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I have 1997 with 31,000 miles. I noticed to today while going down the highway my cruise control indicator light would not come on and my cruise would not work. When i had the chance I pulled over to investigate. Fuse good. What I have found out is that I can turn the ignition off and restart the car with the clutch engaged the crusie indicator light will come on. Once the clutch is disengage the light goes out and quits functioning. What would cause this? Any help is much appreciated?
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Does anyone know if they Porsche center caps to fit a set of TechArt Championship Formula Wheels Made by OZ Racing?
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Can anyone recommend where I can get a quality tail light lens replacement. I want to get rid of the orange on the lens and convert them to white to look like the new ones. Has anyone purchased a pair from ebay? $160 does seem to bad if the quality is good. Thanks in advance for any help.
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The MAF is brand new. The Porsche dealership after having it all day came to the conclusion it was the MAF. This was after cleaning it and supposedly not being able to duplicate the problem. A few days after I got back, I got into pretty good and the light came back on. So I replaced the MAF with a new one. Still did not correct the issue. I just went out a few minutes ago for a short ride. Running the RPM into the 5,000 and 6,000 range about 7 different times with no issue. Wound it out close to red line and the light came on. Reset the light and continued home reving it out to around 5,000 to 6,000 with no issues. **** these cars are a blast!!!
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I appologize if I misunderstood what RFM is saying, I cant tell if he says the cats are shot or going to be shot.
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I have no doubt a misfire would damage the cats, but whats causing the misfire. You would think if I had a misfire I would feel it. I definitely dont think the car would be running as good as it does and still gets great gas mileage. The light only comes on when open it up and come close top redline on the tack. Even then you cant feel this misfire. It runs like it did since day one.
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RFM, When you say cats are shot which cats are you referring to, all four? Keep in mind the car has 30,000 miles on it. Could they go bad that soon?
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You may want to check and see if you shift cable has come loose from the transmission housing. There is a bracket on the right side of the clutch housing. You can see this without lifting the car. Take a look and make sure everything is still connected. If the cable slides out of the bracket, it wont allow the gears to fully engage. The bracket I am speaking of is not were the cable connects to the shift rods. Its the bracket that holds the sleeve to the cable. Its mounted on the side of the housing.
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The check engine light actually blinks for about 5-10 seconds and then goes solid. Not long ago I had an issue with the o2 sensors setting off a code. Porsche has in their notes that they did something to the wires and code was resolved. Could it still be a bad read on the o2 sensors causing the comp to overcompensate for for something. If it is the cats should I just leave it alone until they get worse or is there an inexpensive way to fix?
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Coils and plugs on cylinder 1 and 4 have been replaced. I do get a pending code p1313 shich definitions is manufacture controled eginition system or misfire. Is it possible I getting a code by hitting redline. Does this car have a revlimiter that maybe set thats giving a false CEL as a misfire?
