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DamageINC123

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Everything posted by DamageINC123

  1. DamageINC123
    The is my last try to resolve before I "JUST LEAVE IT". I can make my CEL come on by aggressively driving. Basically running 0-60 wide open. I have replaced the air flow sensor I have swapped the coil packs and I have replaced the plugs. Normally driving with quick acceleration but not past 6,000 will not turn the light on. The car runs perfect with no issues. The codes are 300,301,304. Mis-fire. I do not feel this mis-fire or notice anything. If it were not for the light I would have no idea there is an issue. Any thought before I call it quites. The only bad thing about the car which happens to be also one of the best things is the mileage. Its a 1997 with 30,000 miles. Sometimes not driving can be more harmful than driving. It did seem to get a little better since I have been driving it more lately. Maybe I will run another bottle of Techron through the tank. Let me know what you guys think. emission damaging to catalic converter mis-fire(300) misfire cylinder 1 damaging to catalic converter (301) misfire cylinder 4 damaging to catalic converter (304)
  2. DamageINC123
    I hev been reading all the post but no one really commits on way or the other. I know there is quality issue with the bushings. I guess I am looking for someone who has saved money by purchasing a short shifter that cost less than the B&M and has had good luck with it. I was really disappointed to hear that B&M would not sell Pedro a part he needed that had worn out. With a Lifetime Warranty and as much exposure he has on this site it looks as if they would have helped out.
  3. DamageINC123
    Has any one tried one of the short shifters on ebay? They look very similar to the B & M for less than half the cost.
  4. DamageINC123
    My 97 has them. I do have traction control.
  5. DamageINC123
    I just had the 30,000 mile tune up done and they did not say anything about the vibration. Like I said, its only when you wind it out. I will see if I can get a look at it or maybe at the first of the year jus swap it out anyway.
  6. DamageINC123
    I wonder if I can see it with a light and a mirror. My thought are if I am gonna remove it, then I will go ahead and replace it and I hate to replace something that doesnt need replacing.
  7. DamageINC123
    1997 with 30,000 miles Is there a way possible to check the front engine mount without removing it. I have a little vibration at high RPMs. Lets say around 5,000 plus. The three things I hear that happen are..... 1). Difficult gear changing as well as gear shift moves around more than normal with accel and decel. (IE 3rd Gear) 2). Clunking noise on sharp turns 3) Vibration around 3,000 RPMs I am experiencing non of the 3 but I do have a little vibration. I did not think much about until I drove my friends 2000 with the 2.7ltr. Am I just being parinoid? Is there a way to put it on a rack and check without removing?
  8. DamageINC123
    Thanks Mike. I appreciate your input and have enjoyed reading your articles you have posted on the net. Thanks for all the help and research!!
  9. DamageINC123
    Thanks for the pic. It says that I will have to slightly modify the brackets for a 97. I wonder how much midigfying is required. It sounds like from the add I wll just need to drill and extra hole in the bracket.
  10. DamageINC123
    Anyone ever tried the OBX strut braces on ebay? $69.99 for rear and $89.99 for front seems like a fair price. Let me know what you guys think?
  11. DamageINC123
    It sounds like we have a similar set up. I have a 1997 with 30,000 miles. I am running 225/45/17 front 265/40/17 Michelin Sport rear on TechArt 3-piece rims with TechArt springs. My fronts are like brand new, but the rear tires have about 5/32nd on the outside of the tire and about 2/32nd on the inside. They are worn evenly accross. I have 8,000 on the tires and hope to get another 8,000 out of them but I am seeing similar tire wear as you described. Mine is not an everyday driver so when I do get it out I am hard on the gas!! I will say, they are the best riding tire I have had on the car.
  12. DamageINC123
    My owners manual says 29psi front and 36psi but my tires are not factory Porsche. Just looking for suggestions. I guessI will stick with the manual.
  13. DamageINC123
    I am new to the Boxster world and have realy enjoyed Pedro's website. Not many technicians are willing to share their secrets like Pedro will. Thanks Pedro!! Any opinions on the less expensive alloy shifters sold on ebay?
  14. DamageINC123
    Any suggestiuons on tire pressure? I have a set Michelin Pilot Sport. 225/45/17 front and 265/40/17 rear. I am currently running 30psi in front and 36psi rear.
  15. DamageINC123
    As far as the toe or camber, I am not sure what they found because I let my wife pick the car up. At the time it was checked I didnt notice the unusual wear. It was part of the service from the dealr that we asked them to check while it was there. I knew I was getting close to needing tires so when I took a look to see what I had left i noticed it. I also checked pressure and it was high. Around 40psi. I backed it down to 36psi. The rims and tires were put on by the dealership when they had it. Its a 97 with 30,000 miles. The michelins were put on in 2005 and they have about ,8000 miles on them. The front is like new. The tread wear is worn evenly so its not just on the inside shoulders. It slowly regresses as you move from outside towards the inside. Like I mentioned from the shoulder of the outside to shoulder of inside, its about 2/32nd to 3/32nd difference. I dont drive the car much, but when I do I am a little hard one ecceleration. The michelins are really soft so I am not suprised if I only get about 15,000
  16. DamageINC123
    Is the rear strut brace a good upgrade? ALSO!!! I have 1997 thats been lowerd with TechArt coils. I am running 265/40/17 Michelin Sport (very soft)on the rear and seeing a little more tire wear on the inside of the rear tires than outside. Its not much difference, just a little. (5/32nd left on outside and 2/32nds on inside). About 3/32nd difference. This was measured on the drivers side rear, the worse of the two. Keep in mind with only 5/32nd left, these tires are close wear indicators and needing replaced soon. Front tires are wearing perfect.
  17. DamageINC123
    I did not replace them but I did make sure they were snugged. I guess I could replace them but that was just done 1,000 miles ago. I guess replacing them would be the only way to eliminate every possibility.
  18. DamageINC123
    Swapped coil packs 4 with 5 and misfire remains in cylinders 1 & 4. I drove all day yesterday without the issue unless I floored the car and ran past 6,000 on the tach. The car runs smooth as silk . I do not feel the misfire but will get the CEL.
  19. DamageINC123
    Gentlemen, I had posted a something earlier this week but did not have the specifics. Below is a little more detail with issue. Now that I have the exact codes I need some help. I have 97 with 30,000 miles. All services including 30,000 mile tune up have been done by the dealer. The car runs like a champ!! Although I keep getting the CEL when I drive aggressive (tach around 6.5). The codes are p300, p301, p304. Pending codes 1313, 1319, 1316. All point to misfire and emmisions related to cylinders 1 & 4. I put in a new MAS but that did not correct the issue. I was thinking an air leak but I am not getting the symptons (IE wondering tach on idle). I put some techron fuel injector cleaner in last night. I am hoping that its a clog fuel injector with low miles i have. Since I am getting the same 2 cylinders every time I check the codes and reset, could it be bad coil or plug on cylinder 1 & 4? We just put new plugs in not long ago. Any suggestion would help.
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