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Does anybody know how adjust the maximum turning angle? I'm getting a little rub in the fenders when I'm at the lock. I was hoping to just adjust the lock to be a degree or two sooner to prevent the rub. I would assume the adjustment is on the rack itself but need some more specific advice. Thanks.
g.lu replied to asutherl's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)I searched for "front lid cable release" and found related threads. Sounds like it might go to the right, not left. People seem to get to it by pulling the wheel lining.
g.lu replied to asutherl's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)I don't think applying power to the emergency jump point would help b/c it still has power so nothing would change. Strange that you can't hit the unlock button on the dash. I guess you could wait for the battery to run out then do that ;( There is a manual cable release to the front latch just like there is one for the rear latch. It's a little wire with a loop at the end. It goes toward the driver/left side of the car. But I can't recall how you get to it exactly. You might just need to pop out the left front turn signal (use the little card thingie in the owners manual or make your own from a credit card). Maybe try a search for front lid cable release. PM me and I can send you a pic from the parts manual but it does not show the routing.
This is from an L.A. pothole. It ultimately did over $12000 damage including replacement of nearly all the front passenger side suspension bits and the right radiator. I think that's from an IED, not a pot hole.
I could not agree more It's the only way to drive :). For me, I don't like the throttle mapping changes each time I switch back and forth. But in all honesty, it's not that loud. I had straight pipes on and that was loud. Plus it resonated like crazy inside. First thing I did was swap them out.
I'm interested in this. Sorry to ask but is there way for you to lookup what was replaced (part number or text description)? I'm guessing it must the alt to starter cable that is flakey. The battery to body + starter must be good otherwise the booster wouldn't work. But a low current handling connection from alt would lead to an undercharged battery. Thanks in advance.
You're welcome. BTW, did you disconnect the valves? If so, what do you think? I also wanted to clarify my above. I said $1200 for the cans alone. Note that you still need tips - you can't use the non PSE tips. So that's a few hundred $. You need tips for aftermarket exhausts too so I'd argue the upgrade cost is still similar but I wanted to be clear.
Thanks alot for the feedback.... I will defintely search the forum for bypassing the control valves (seems easy).... you also mentioned you bypassed the intake resonator which gave you a nice sound (how did you do this, or are the instructions also found in the forum?) I already dished out quite a bit of cash for the full PSE system from the dealer .... I think I should have done what you said and just got the mufflers, anyways I'm going to keep my eyes on the bright side and enjoy my new Porsche sound (loving it, think this is what stock Porsches should sound like!!!) Again I appreciate the reply... phillipj posted a good pic on how to pull the elec harness entering the vacuum switch for the PSE valves. Personally I just leave my connecter sitting on top of the value, just not seated all the way. It won't make elec contact with snapping down. That way it stays clean and looks normal. I have not seen a post on bypassing the resonator like I did. I've read of folks plugging the tube or jamming the valve shut. Some folks have prototyped the sound by just putting the duct tape on the airbox side but thats for sure a round the block kind of thing. In any case, the issue is that the value is normally open by default (i.e. no vac applied) and we want it closed by default. Noting the that the vacuum control valve is just an on/off switch, I just went around it - I connected the input vac line to the output and hence, then actuator always gets vac and stays closed. Takes like 2 min. to do. The valve in on the back of the airbox looking from the rear - between the airbox and the engine. Sort of right down from the PSE control. You can see the wire harness coming in from the right. Follow that you'll find the value. It has two vac lines coming in, just connect them together. I can't post a pic but I also can't really see it to take a pic anyway. You have to connect it with the airbox in place. Go here: http://login.dealers...USA_Katalog.pdf then page 35 in pdf or 106-01 in the PET. 17 is the value, 19 is the line from the value to the actuator. Not shown is the input to 17 but it's the only other vac line so it's easy to see. Gerald
I've heard about this wearing in idea. I dunno. I haven't heard any difference over time in mine. Plus, if it sounds right sometimes to you, then it can't be that anyway. Yes, the default mode with PSE quiets it down off idle until some speed. The algorithm seems to be more complex that just a speed cutoff. But what you describe sounds like normal behavior. It's easy to bypass the control values. Just pull the electrical connector off the controller. Search the fourm, tons of pics. I like the sound load all the time. I also bypassed the intake resonator at it gets a very Porsche sounding howl at 3 and 6k. Very fun. I love the PSE sound over the other aftermarket exhausts. It just sounds right and it burbles beautifully as the fuels cuts back in on decel. In fact, if you like it loud all the time, you can just add the PSE mufflers by themselves w/o the controls. They are about $1200 which is cost competitive with the other exhausts. You don't need the electronics - the valves by default are in loud mode. Of course, if you want the on/off, PSE you need it. My car has PSE from the factory and then straight pipes (way too loud by the way ). So I just had to put the mufflers back and that's why I know the cost. I already had the vaccum switch so it got hooked up but I would have been happy with just the cans.
g.lu replied to Mikeplant's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)My engine cooling fan (rear) turns on quite often after driving around town. But my front radiator fans only turn on if the AC is on or it's otherwise really warm. Personally I like the engine compartment fan coming on - can't hurt to keep it cooler in there given little natural airflow. Interestingly, I did have an issue where my left radiator fan didn't turn on and the right one worked harder. It went to high speed often. Ends up a rock was jamming the left. Once that was cleared out, both run togther now. The fans are pretty quiet at low speed. You just might not have heard them until it went to high.
Based on the price and description, it sounds like the Porsche Sports Exhaust. Yes, they did sell it. If you look from the rear, the inner pair of the 4 exhaust tips is smaller diameter - that's the visual giveaway. It is controlled by a button (dedicated or part of sport chrono "sport" button). You can youtube porsche sports exhaust.