dvdude

I will have to change the amp, but I believe that the stock speakers will work. I will eventually want to change them as well as they are fairly low quality. I am aware of the MOST issues, but that aside, before I start ripping stuff out, I want to make sure that I will end up with a clean install.

I can confirm that fit isn't really an issue. I had the Kenwood installed not too long ago and I think the shop created a custom bezel because it's a perfect fit, one piece and shows NO metal. I'd take photo's to prove it except that the same shop failed to put back the firewall grommet properly and the car is now in the service dept having the interior removed and everything dried out! Hope the first shop's liability insurance is paid up if it comes to that!

Which I hope it doesn't - the guy running the place seems decent enough and the dealer has a good working relationship with them so I'm prepared to accept one screw-up. Anyway, these are my problems....

In my case, the Nav 'puter was installed under the HU in the top position of the bottom section, the AC controls moved down to the bottom position of the bottom section. The CD holder and Bin are in the garage, with everything needed to convert back to stock 'cause some Porsche people insist on that (for when I come to part with the car) It looks perfect! I promise photo's when I get my car back. I'm certain you shouldn't have any issues with using the stock speakers, they are passive after all so MOST doesn't come into it.

I noticed at tonight's fill-up that the trim piece on the inside of the front window at the top is detaching itself from the hardtop. This probably helps explain why I've been getting window icing on the inside of the car!!

I haven't driven the car in quite a while and I didn't notice this when I installed the top at the end of October. I suspect that to get at it, I'll also need to remove the hard plastic trim piece above the window.

Can anyone help me figure out how to install this correctly?

The gong does stop after a few chimes (at least, that's the case in the '02 C4 cab), I think the same sounder is used for headlight-on warning so you'd have t6o give that up too.

The visual indication can be cancelled by push the OBC stalk forward - doesn't stop the gong though

I don't see the part on those explodes Loren, but I know what he's talking about - I'll go look in my car.

Similar situation here in NJ, but with a twist:

I'm not a lawyer, but this was told to me by one. In NJ, the supreme court ruled that a moving violation could no longer be commuted to a non-moving violation. The result was that the number of "not guilty" pleas rocketed, clogging the court system. In response to this, a new moving violation (Operating a verhicle in an unsafe manner) was created carrying 0 points. This allowed the old process to continue, resulting in increased revenue and less "Traffic Court" traffic!!

Not that I've looked (because I haven't) but there's an "AV" button on the front panel that's currently disabled. That suggests to me that PCM2 may have analog inputs but I've no idea if this is the case and, even if it is, how you'd go about activating that button.

Once a key is programmed to a vehicle, it will only work with that vehicle. This is because in the new generation of immobilizers, there is a two-way communication between the key transponder and the immobilizer. When the key's electronic serial number is programmed into the car, the car's serial number is burned into the key. This is a one time only process, the key will not be able to have another serial number programmed to it.

It is also a good idea to obtain another key and have it programmed, you say the other keys were 'lost'? The process of programming keys will 'lock out' any others that aren't programmed at the same time, rendering them useless.

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This is news that might help me sleep better! My C4 was bought as a CPO car at a dealer, but the original owner didn't turn the keys in. The dealer offered to get a new key and program it as part of the deal.

I was concerned that there are other keys "out there" but this statement would seem to indicate why the dealer needed both the car and the master key to program the spare. I sure hope it's true that this action disables any existing keys not present at programming time.

I have it on both cars and wouldn't be without it. The skills of the installer are equally as important as the material IMO, and if you don't like it (or anyone interested in buying the car down the road), it can be removed withoiut paint damage, leaving effectively new panels.

hey everyone, im new to the site, this is my first posting.  im very proud to say, ive been waiting my entire life for this moment.  tomorrow morning im going to pick up my '99 911 carrera.  anyway enough sappy stuff, the point is it has no navigation unit and i wanted to install one.  ive seen a few where people used the space under the radio and the compartment under that to fit a nice sized screen in. 

what do you all think is the best navigation unit for this car?  im not looking to go overboard $$ wise, but id like a nice one.  i think the flip out might get annoying?   

any opinions and/or advice would be much appreciated!!

thanks!

MG

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You're car is non-MOST, so you can use your existing amp.  You basically have two choices regarding the category - single DIN or double DIN.  All the single DIN units except for the Traffic Pro have pop-out screens - they're easy to install however.  Traffic Pro is the best and probably cheapest option, but has no moving map and future support doesn't look good.  Pre-MOST cars can't have PCM2, from what I can gather, PCM1 isn't all that great but they do pop up on eBay from time to time.  I'm going for the Kenwood double DIN because it's got the best feature set and looks not unlike PCM (there are pics of one in a Boxster on this site).  But, it's not a cheap solution and is fairly complex to install as the HVAC controls need to be moved.

Another solution to consider would be a portable unit.  I had a Magellan RoadMate for a while and loved it, but I decided on an integrated solution for my C4 because of looks and because it'll interrupt whatever music source I'm listening to at the time.  I'm going the "whole hog" route though, with cellphone handsfree, a new CD changer, and some other stuff - my car is in for the install on Wednesday, planning on picking it up on Saturday,  Will do pics when I get the chance.

Hi,

I understand from reading here that part of the aerokit install includes adding a second engine compartment lid strut. I just topped off the oil in my car and noticed it's not there. The car is an '02 C4 Cab.

Is it supposed to be there on my car? How important is it?

TIA

Andy

You might wish to get your transmission checked out. On my 2000 Tip, I never feel the "jerk" you describe when shifting into 1st .... whether moving or not. When sitting still, there is no sensation at all when shifting into 1st.

Also, I do not experience the "funny" shifts you describe when operating the Tip in manual. The only difference in my car is the shift point being delayed until I choose to shift.

Kim

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That's about the same for me too - I haven't noticed anything "odd" when taking over from the 'puter.

[No matter how I drive, my car almost always starts out in 2nd.  I would pay money to change that.  It makes the car feel much heavier.

Only on 2 occasions did it start in 1st.  Both times it was when the car was cold starting off in the morning.  But by the time the car was restarted it stopped doing it.  It was bliss for a brief moment.

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I agree that it makes the car feel heavier, I guess we're using torque instead of revs. You could always tap it down on the wheel switches I suppose....

I just did too!

Patriot

:cheers:

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Drive on dude!! :drive:

Thanks Loren. There's no one like you.

Patriot

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That's why we contribute :clapping:

It also depends on your driving style. Shift patterns are selected based on how hard you drive it (My car thinks I'm a Wuss most of the time, so pulls off in second and is in fifth around 30-35). Drive it harder, it'll shift later.

Anyone know the VW part number off hand? I'm just not saavy enough to dig this out of the Internet, even with all the looking I have done.

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Using the search feature on this site using "VW Part" (with quotes) yields this in the search results:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...4512&hl=vw+part

:D

I believe there's a VW part available. The search engine is your friend/

I have a Nissan Maxima with a Bose system, I had a 300 ZX TT with a Bose system and I do like them ( in the car) . The issue I have with powered speakers is the expense when something blows up ( and believe me it does blow up) and in general with the difficulty in making any changes to the whole or part of the system. That's not customer friendly...

Cheers

HarryR

C2 with Bose  :cheers:

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It came as a bit of a shock really. I'd always been somewhat anti-Bose until I got the C4. I didn't even switch it on until after I'd driven it home. And to be honest, the radio is - well - :eek:

The CD caught me off guard, I loaded up the changer just for the hell of it, then found myself singing along to Sting in the driveway! Good job I had the top up!

Although it doesn't seem so good with the top down at highway speeds, I'm generally not listening to the stereo, much preferring to :drive:

Maybe the extensive work that Porsche did to optimize the audio (according to the 2002 sales literature) paid off, though that doesn't explain the funky eq!

:cheers: back at ya!

no clue....my deck is rated at 50wattx4, the amp is at 45x6 and the speakers r 45 watt. maybe just bad luck the amp went..or maybe the amp didn't like the deck. 'm not much of an audio guy...i just kno what sounds good, and get someone else 2 do the install work lol

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You did connect the HU's pre-outs right? Shoving the HU power amp outputs into the Bose amp's pre-amp level inputs might explain things.... :eek:

I'd have to agree with that for home audio (probably most car stuff too). It's pretty much as sinple as this for me though: The Bose system in my car sounds rather good to my ears. The amp seems to be particularly fast (short rise time/slew rate) and seems to have excellent control of the sub (damping factor). Ok, the frequency response is rather odd, but good recordings sound great after much twiddling and recognition of the concept that, due to a rather aggressive loudness circuit, a particular set of eq parameters only really seems to work at one volume setting. vocals and acoustic guitars, I find, are particularly well handled,

The shop showed me an example of an audio system they'd installed in another C4 cab and they offered me a listen. My mental image of Porsche as a classy car was immediately shattered - replaced instead by visions of this pimp-mobile blasting it's bass down the road.

Really - I could even imagine the guy had switchable air-suspension so he could complete the image by bouncing the thing at traffic lights! It was only short of a furry dashboard

I never did entirely understand this fascination that seems to exist for MP3 jukeboxes either, I mean, throwing away 90% of the data during the compression phase then spending big bucks on amps and stuff to try to make it sound good just seems like an odd thing to want to do.

<dvdude exits soapbox>

I just don't want my car to sound like that! Each to his own I suppose....

The install has been postponed too (much to my chagrin) due to problems with the car dictating an extended stay in the dealer's service facility. Now scheduled for the week of 7/11.

dvdude, it won't be a problem as i have done it. however, i wouldn't expect ur amp 2 last very long as i fried one in like a yea and a bit.

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Any idea why?

TT's, GT3's and GT2's measure oil differently than boxster's or regular 996's.  You have to measure them hot and with the motor running.  I do not know if it is because they are dry sump motors or if it is because that is just the way that Porsche decided to measure it.

Depending on break in, driving style and individual motor tolerances,  your car may or may not burn oil.  Most people have to add some oil between complete oil changes.  Depending on how often you drive the car you should be checking the oil level occasionaly.  Probably evey 500 miles or so and topping off the oil as neededl.

Each bar on the electronic gauge is 1/4 of a quart, so from the top to the bottom of the gauge is about 1.5 quarts.

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I LOVE this place! :king:

I wonder if there is such a thing as a hypo car driac?

The condensors sit in front of the radiators, I think you can get your hand through the openings in the front PU, although it may need a small child or trained monkey if you've got big hands.

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If there is such a thing - I'm one!

Thanks for the info, it's something I'll bear in mind for the fall. We have a 100+ year old oak in the back yard that easily reaches over the house and fills the front driveway! My old Mustang ended up with lots trapped behind the front fenders. A rotten condenser sounds like a bad start to the fall.

Preachy? No - not to me anyway.

So now I have another entry for my list of things to worry about! :jump: Where are the condensers exactly?

TIA

Andy

Sometimes the pump will stop early but the tank isn't quite full. Was it reading full when you pulled out from gas station only to have it drop 1/4 of a tank within a few miles?

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YES! Exactly that. Funnily enough, when I filled up yesterday, it cost more and the gauge behaved like I think it should. Remained on full all the way home (about 22 miles). I filled at the same gas station, but a different attendant was working. When it clicked off, he retracted the nozzle a little and topped it off.

Loren - the battery has never been disconnected AFAIK, but the car's going in for a Nav/DVD install on Friday, I'll make sure it's full before I drop it off, just in case.

Thanks for the info.