fedmax

Loren:

I believe his question is addressing removal of the tensioner roller; not the polyrib belt. A recent thread on this is located here: tensioning roller although I'm not sure that thread provides a definitive answer.

:cheers:

In respect to the roller that I wanted to remove I cannot see a way without removing the engine carrier.

Sounds like low refrigerant.

If you are mechanically inclined (i.e. can do an oil change or brake work), then AutoZone loans out AC vacuum pumps and manifold guages. Very easy to evac, check for leak, and recharge.

Good luck.

Michael.

It was! We now filled it with UV light sensitive fluid and hope we find the leak... Thanks!

Thanks for the input, will also check the fan fuses, was interesting that it didn't run when I stopped the car. Else I'll take it to the shop...

Dear all

Probably a 996 universal topic but put it in the 996TT section anyway. Noted today that my AC is not working. When I got home I found out that the magnetic clutch does not engage. Outer pulley runs but does not engage the AC. I checked all fuses, all ok, checked the power cable, ok too.

Do the magnetic clutches just fail sometimes? Or do you have another idea?

Thanks

Ronny

@fedmax Nice Blog!

Thanks :)

Hi, I'm having a similar leak on the right side of the crankcase of my '03 TT. Just wondering if you've had any further issues with this?

Thanks

No problem since last posting, oil consumption hasn't changed, no spills on the floor. Depends in your case how much it is leaking...

Ok, I can confirm that you cannot take that deflection roller out with the engine in place. The engne carrier is obstructing the srew, not much missing but not enough. I've added some lube and new srew-lock and the noise is gone for the moment...question is how long.

Sorry ,never done it but in the repair manual page 643 you got the generator removal and the deflection roller is part of the job.... Hope this help....

Thanks but its the other deflection roller next to the AC Generator so further down the big metal engine carrier. I guess I'll find out on sunday...

The squeeling from one of my tensioning rollers gets louder and louder. Has anyone replaced this roller yet?

I couldn't find instructions in the manual. The most important question probably is can this been done without taking out the engine? I tried to measure it and guess it could work when I remove the servo pump wheel.

Any hints welcome :)

Thanks

Ronny

Some of you that have been following my posts can imagine that I have quite a few parts lying around. To get over the pain of repair and maintenance bills I built a sculpture of the remaining bits. The following parts have been used:

- rear brake disc

- cardan shaft

- 5ht/6th and reverse gear

- synchro rings

- concave washer/spring support

- various bolts, screws and nots

What came out of it is my sculpture P1 with a special tweak: the top metal spray can be removed and is then converted to a oversize candleholder ;-).

Welcome to the club. I can tell from my experiene that even though you'll have repairs with that car it'ill reward you with great driving experience and put a smile on your face every time you do an overtaking that would not be possible with most cars.

I purchased a compressor on ebay recently and would like to exchange the clutch that makes noise (the price difference between the clutch and whole compressor with clutch was little...so I have a spare compressor handy if needed). Now the problem: I removed the screw, pressure plate and seeger ring clip. Now the pulley just won't come off. I did hammer with a rubber hammer but that didn't help either. I couldn't find any information from people that have issues with getting the pulley off. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

I have your same problem! my indy just told me that it's possible to change the bearing inside the magnetic clutch that's usually causing the noise, now I'm keeping the noise, until I find the right way to remove the pulley...

Forgot to update this thread....make sure it's really the magnetic clutch and not another roller. In my case I used a mechanic stetoskop to find out that it is a deflection roller next to the magnetic clutch that is responsible for the noise: http://porsche996tur...rom-engine.html

I was at Swizöl (Swissvax) yesterday and ended up buying a wax kit, hydralip (similar to Maguairs) and some towels and applicators, nice project for the easter holiday...I'll of course put some pictures here when I'm done :).

@Hijack: look at my blog, I actually have a normal power cable for the Iphone (for TomTom) in the holder and a Solisto device in the trunk for a ipod that supplies music. Additionally I use an FM sender from time to time that is installed in the compartment of the arm rest (I installed power plugs there).

Nice, hope mine starts to kick like yours after the few repairs I've been through....

I always seem to get the troubled items... Today the carbon fibre rear wing from Porscheshop arrived after a long wait. The first time the holes were off so I couldn't not mount it. This time the holes fitted and before I was happy I saw that the wing touches the boot lid at the place where the middle break light is mounted. The CF wing just does not have the same shape as the original wing.

Does anybody know if it's possible to program or adjust the height of the retracted position? All I need is the wing a tiny bit higher when its retracted.

They are...aside from the great products they're hand made which makes them expensive. For interior go for the leather package, all you need is in there.

Thanks :) One thing to mention: I did these photos before rubbing the leather a second time with a microfibre cloth so it now looks a bit more matt than shiny just the way I like it...

BTW Swizol is not cheap but these bottles last very long as you only apply a very thin layer.

For once not a issue/problem posting...just a few pictures from my days work :)

Every years work...spring wash exterior and interior. This year I went after two new product for the exterior: the specialist in the shop recommended simple 'Handy' washing up liquid to get rid of all dirt and wax on the paint. Worked very well. For waxing the car I used the new NXT Tech Wax 2 from Maguiars. I'm not to sure about the result yet, I remember the surface being smoother last spring with Swissvax wax that I borrowed from a friend. For rubber I stayed with Swizol gum feed with flawless result, same goes for the interior with all Swizol products. Again took off at least 20'000 miles off in looks ;-).

Mechanic diagnosis result: very little oil comes from the crank case seal, not to worry about as oil consumtion is at around 6000km/Liter.

Do I understand it correctly,when you say engine went out you mean it stopped on its own. So your boss did not switch it off??

If you have no further problems I would suggest all that happened is that the car stalled ( the engine stopped) This would bring up all the dash lights and alarms.

The usual failure is the oil pressure sender to the gauge. When this fails the car brings up an alarm telling you its failed and to take it to the workshop.

If your boss has only stalled the car then there is no problems at all.

If your boss got a message saying there is a problem with the sender/gauge, then this is not such a big thing at all.

Just get it changed.

The main thing is if the car is running with good oil pressure at the moment then there is nothing to panic about.

Good luck.

Tell us all how you get on.

Frank

That is correct, according to him the engine went out and then the warning came on. According to him the oil pressure warning came on in the center screen where all the warnings are spelled out.

I'll keep an eye on it, the car goes into the shop next week for the front suspension mounts to be replaced. the mech will also look at the leak.

Thanks for your help

Ronny

Hi, Could you please explain again: started with an apparent drop in oil pressure (I was not driving, engine went out, oil pressure warning on.

What is an apparent drop in Oil pressure. Did the oil pressure drop off when you were driving the car? Or was it at Idle?? What do you mean "Engine went out"??

How much pressure did the car loose, at what revs, does it start, does the oil light still stay on all the time???

Have you checked your oil level in the car, have you checked the oil pressure sender has not failed???

As to the little bit of oil on your finger, I wish mine was so clean. Its an engine, they leak a little bit. A leak becomes a problem when it drips, what you are showing from the picture is merely a weep. IMO dont worry.

If the head gaskit had blown normally, the oil would be in your coolant or would be getting into the cylinders so it would smoke!!

Frank :unsure:

Thanks for the support guys! That's the problem...my boss was driving in rush hour for the first time with my car all excited so he cannot clearly say how it happened. According to him in stop and go traffic the engine went out and at the same time the warning sign in the dash for oil pressure came on. He checked underneath the car for oil and smell and started again and went off. Since then no issue.

Porsche checked, no oil in the coolant, stable to -30 degrees. Oil consumtion normal, oil level fine, no drops on the floor when I park the car.

Oil pressure sender failure...how to check?

Found a new issue recently, started with an apparent drop in oil pressure (I was not driving, engine went out, oil pressure warning on). Since the 120'000km maintanance the car ran very smootly and used very little oil. I've driven 5000km since and it has used up about half a liter. Earlier it was 1 liter per 3000km.

Now I noticed that a bit of oil is coming out beween the gasket and the seal on the right side. The left side is completely dry. Please have a look at the pictures, anything to worry about?

Hi there

Do I have to 'center' the servo pump wheel? It looks like it wobbles a bit since I loosened and fastened it again. However the DYI does not indicate anything like this and this is how I've done it:

2. Position servo pump wheel (2).

- Put on the servo pump wheel together with the drive belt.

- Slightly tighten the three fastening screws on the servo pump wheel.

3. Tension drive belt (3).

- To tension the drive belt, turn the tensioning roller 7 in clockwise direction and simultaneously fit the drive belt on the deflection roller 8.

- Then slowly relieve. To do this, turn the tensioning roller slowly counter−clockwise (anti-clockwise).

4. Tighten fastening screws on servo pump (4).

- Tighten the fastening screws of the servo pump drive wheel. Tightening torque: 17 ftlb. (23 Nm)

Thanks in advance.

I purchased a compressor on ebay recently and would like to exchange the clutch that makes noise (the price difference between the clutch and whole compressor with clutch was little...so I have a spare compressor handy if needed). Now the problem: I removed the screw, pressure plate and seeger ring clip. Now the pulley just won't come off. I did hammer with a rubber hammer but that didn't help either. I couldn't find any information from people that have issues with getting the pulley off. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.