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fedmax

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Everything posted by fedmax

  1. I fixed the problem today, it was very much straight forward: 1) Remove the glove compartment dampers by carefully pulling them toward you, they are attached by a snap mechanism 2) Remove the 2 screws each side holding the glove compartment to the frame joint 3) the switch is top right, in my case the metal bracket just fell off 4) I removed the switch carefully with a flat screw driver, inserted the metal piece and fixed it with some epoxy that it will always stay there 5) works like a charm
  2. Ok found a topic with the same problem: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/39768-glove-compartment-light/
  3. Does anyone have instructions to do so that are a bit more specific? Where does the arm go`? Thanks Ronny
  4. Does anyone know how the glove box sensor open/close works? I've worked at the glove box and a little metal bracket came off - I just don't know from where. Since then the car honks when I lock the doors. Thanks Ronny
  5. "Follow the instructions to alter the wiring to stop the "check spoiler" light from lighting on the dash" What is involved to do that? At the moment my rear wing hydraulics do not work and I'd like to get rid of the warning... Thanks Ronny
  6. I have he same issue, driver side ram leaks. We added the 5ml of oil. It went ok for 2 days and then did not retract anymore. Apparently Porsche upgraded/redesigned the system since it was first built and recommends to replace the whole system. Another Porsche mechanic confirmed that statement. The system is easy to exchange (DIY job), the issue is that the set costs 1200 EUR :(.
  7. Thanks Richard - very good list. But still my question: with all these fuses pulled (relating to all these consumtions listed in the document) what is still draining the battery i.e. which parts are not controlled in that fuse box?
  8. It was deactivated I tested the car with open doors but wouldn't that be offline anyway after I pulled the fuse C3 for central locking?
  9. Thanks JFP, I know the car quite well because I took a lot of it apart the last two years. All aftermarket stuff I did myself and that is wired to the fuse box, so...I have the work ahead that I don't want at the moment :-( So bring it to the shop most likely.
  10. I have an interesting battery drain. I noticed that when I leave my car stationary for two weeks, it's enough to drain the battery. I Installed a CTEK Battery health indicator and noticed that it's rarely ever green. For those of you interested: the Ctek Health Indicator uses 2 mA.So today I started my investigation with a multimeter. I pulled all lamps (trunk, glove box, left and right door and made sure no other lights are on and waited till the speedo was off. B1 pulled 167mA (Cluster Tiptronic, Diganosis and Power Top) C3 pulled 123mA (CU Alarm System, Central Locking, Power Window) D1 pulled 103mA (Power Window) D8 pulled ended at 100mA (Radiator Fan 2) So even after all fuses pulled I have still double the standby current left that it should have. At this point I have no idea where to look for as I have no accessory installed that are not going through the fuse box. The different accessories I have all end up in one fuse that I take power from (seat fuse). Do you guys have any idea what I could try next? Thanks Ronny
  11. sorry to hear that you have that issue. Mine went away after some time - as if the rollar had to run-in...no more sound.
  12. Some of you may remember this from last year, a quick statistical 996TT review. My smart phone app hasn't changed since, nor my love for statistics. 2012 was a very good year, service and maintenance cost were about half of that in 2011, mainly due to (almost) no repairs in 2012. Repairs in 2012 included the following: - Wishbone replaced rear right - Light switch replaced - Exhaust oxygen sensor replaced - Clutch pressure accumulator replaced What needs to be done but I just didn't get around to it this year: - Oil pressure sensor needs to be replaced. Sometimes it drops to 0 and a warning comes on that it is broken. I found in a German board PFF that when you replace it you may also replace the seal below the oil filter housing because that should be the reason for the same oil leak I also have on my turbo. Here is the link to the forum and the picture: - Second is the bigger problem, my rear spoiler stopped retracting and I discovered a very small leak. As a workaround I pulled the responsible fuse so that it does not come up. Year 2012 Statistics, all the numbers: - 22'236 km covered (13817 mls) - 2780 liters of fuel burned (735.5 gallons) - Avg of 12.4 liters per 100km (18.97 mpg US) - Peak at 26.43 liters per 100km (8.9 mpg US) - Low mark at 10.0 liters per 100km (23.52 mpg US) - In this time I added 3 liters of oil Top tip key learning of 2012: Never ever use Falken 452 on a 996 Turbo if you go beyond 200km/h. I found in some strange car board that it works really well on the 996TT, well it doesn't. It's a good tyre for cruising and country roads but no high speeds on the autobahn nor on the race track. At 250km/h it gets really uncomfortable, at 270km/h I had to stop. On Pirelli tyres in 2011 I could have gone beyond 310km/h if that bend did not come up (GPS, not speedo). And that in a completely stable car that gives you a lot of confidence. Small difference in tyres... Unfortunately not so nice pictures in 2012, I had other stuff on my mind: 150'000km reached in March 2012 (Pierre would say it's almost run in) Category every day car - DIY shopping Still gives me a smile on my face with its beautiful shape. Best fuel station ever I found in Lucerne: Yes you stand on a lane while you fill up...crazy. Dirty and ready for skiing! Found this little guy in the Porsche Museum in Stuttgart. No scratch so probably not used. Happy new year to everyone and I wish you a good start into 2013! Ronny
  13. Welcome to the club and year end greetings to Canada! Ronny
  14. It's been a while since I posted which doesn't mean that nothing has happened, so I finally get around telling about the new stone chip protection I installed a month ago. If you read this blog previously you noticed that I replaced both the large water cooler in the middle plus a radiator from the air con. Both these damages are from frequent stones that can hit the radiators without issue, there is nothing to stop them. First I wanted to address the issue with a ZunSport grill which I ordered from their website: http://www.zunsport.co.uk/ Depending on the car make and grill setup this could be a very good high quality grill but not for the 996 Turbo. This is why: 1) It is a mess to fit, you have to drill holes and it does not really fit perfectly. Based on the construction I can not imagine that there is a set that fits perfectly. 2) The OEM grills perfectly fit to the plastic underneath directing the air (and rain, and dirt) to the radiators rather to the underlying bumper and all the rest that would be exposed. 3) It looks stupid like cheap tuning So I almost quit the job but got the idea why not attach a regular racing mesh grill directly to the radiators? You can get these for 30 Swiss francs in every tuning shop. So this is what I did: 1) First needed to clean the radiators, in between the air con and the water radiators there is a lot of dirt as you can see: 2) After that the job was simple: remove the air ducts, cut the mes grill to fit and hold it in place by the existing screws and the air duct. 3) For the middle radiator I could not remove the air duct as it is attached with rivets. So I cut a piece matching the width but slightly bigger in height, slid it in and it is held in place by a slight curve. 4) The result is a car that is now protected from damaging stones but looks like a nice unmodified car if you don't bend over and look closely:
  15. Purge Valve Replacement - 03-06 Cayenne TT I did this one a little while ago, but never had time to get these organized into a tutorial for others. Here it is. Comments are in each pic, for each step to do. Each picture is numbered in the order to be done. Hope this will help you make the replacement easier (especially if you are new to doing such work). Author ciaka Category Cayenne (9PA, 9PA1) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 10/02/2012 12:55 PM Updated 11/11/2017 07:34 PM  
  16. Can there be any faults with mounting that tensioning roller? Maybe tighten it too much? When the engine is warm the stupid thing makes the same noise again :-( Or material defect?
  17. Recently my rear bumper got painted. One part that was heavily impacted from stone chips was the rear wheel arch as on the pictures below. As a have wheel spacers for the look there are many stones flying off at the painted piece. As I couldn't find a stone chip foil for that area I did one myself. The result you can see below and even print and use as a model (PNG paper format is European A4).
  18. Finally did the job last weekend, here is the DIY with pictures: http://porsche996turboblog.blogspot.ch/2012/07/issue-screech-noise-in-engine.html
  19. Accumulator exchanged, everyting back to normal!
  20. Thanks for the insight and good to know that it works. One thing that stopped me from trying was the new deflection roller has a torx rather than a normal wench screw. Was that the same in your case? Did you just use the old screw? Here are the pictures:
  21. Thanks Loren, I hope its just the accumulator, I had the operating cylinder replaced about 20k mls ago.
  22. Hi all It's been some time since I had a strange issue, but one came up this week: After driving off I noticed something like vibrations when I pressed the clutch pedal. The clutch worked fine, opened and closed but a little later same drive the feel or let's say the amound of power necessary to press the clutch varied each time I pressed it. Sometimes with vibrations, sometimes without. I drove the car a few times since, the clutch works but the feeling is a different one almost every time. It feels normal from time to time for a few pressures but then again goes harder and I'm 90% sure the point where the clutch engages also varies a bit. Remote diagnoisis anyone? Hope it's not a part failure...had enough of those ;-) Thanks Ronny
  23. I did it last weekend, here are the instructions including pictures: http://porsche996turboblog.blogspot.com/2012/04/solisto-iphone-mp3-interior.html Solisto iPhone MP3 Interior Installation Two years back or so I did a very easy installation of the Solisto device in exchange for the CD Changer in the trunk. Plug and Play. The downside is you cannot attach another device while driving or reboot it when it crashes. The TomTom Navigation in conjunction with Spotify (or normal MP3 on the device) works really great. Music is turned down automatically when the TomTom lady has to say something, even on/off of the Radio pauses Spotify. Long story short I had to install the Solisto directly at the PCM unit. 1. The toughest part is to get the cover around the PCM off. It is attached with a few hooks. Without tools I read in many forums to push down and pull forward. Depending on the car this might work. I think in my case the cover has never been off so with simple push and pulling it didn't work. To get more grip onto the top part I applied painter tape (to not damage the leather) and on top of it double sided tape. With all fingers on the tape I could pull the cover back, get a grip underneath and carefully pull the cover away. Tip: apply painter tape to the whole cover so that you don't get any scratches in follow-on work. These are the hinges you need special tools for to pull them down and get the over out. 2. The rest is relatively easy. On each side of the PCM unit there is a spring. Push them inside and pull the PCM control unit out. There are no screws or anything, just the two springs in the middle of each side. Cover the car's sensitive areas with a blanket or so to not make any scratches. 3. The plug to look for is 'C' on the diagram. It is made up by three parts: yellow, green and blue. Remove it and take apart the plug. Remove the yellow part and apply it to the Solistor connector. Put it back in and re-attach the PCM unit. There is much space to run the solistor cable down behind the PCM CD Nav unit/ AC Unit. I decided to attach the Solisto with Velcro to the carpet between the cardan shaft and the air vents. There is also space behind the AC control unit. The iPhone cable went up to the telephone console. Done! Reference: Porsche PCM1 Pinout Borrowed from: Link Forum http://cuoresportivo.no -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Headunit Naviunit Disclaimer: THE PIN OUT CAN BE INCORRECT, USE AT YOUR OWN RISK. All information is provided in good faith. Any modification you carry out, you do so at your own risk. No liability is implied or will be accepted. Please ensure that you are qualified to carry out any work detailed on this page and that you take all necessary precautions. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Plug A 1 - Speed signal 2 - Free 3 - Free 4 - Terminal 30 5 - Terminal 30 for windscreen antenna 6 - Free 7 - Free 8 - Terminal 31 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Plug B 1 - Loudspeaker, rear right + 2 - Loudspeaker, rear right - 3 - Loudspeaker, front right + 4 - Loudspeaker, front right - 5 - Loudspeaker, front left + 6 - Loudspeaker, front left - 7 - Loudspeaker, rear left + 8 - Loudspeaker, rear left - Note Plug B is assigned only if no amplifier is installed. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Plug C 1 - Lineout, rear left 2 - Line out, rear right 3 - AF ground 4 - Line out, front left 5 - Line out, front right 6 - Terminal 30 for amplifier 7 - Control lead for CD changer 8 - Terminal 30 for CD changer 9 - Free 10 - Data lead 11 - Clock lead 12 - Reset lead 13 - Free 14 - Free 15 - Free 16 - Free 17 - Free 18 - CD AF, ground 19 - CD AF, left 20 - CD AF. right Note Plug C consists of 3 parts. Pins 1 to 6: yellow housing. Pins 7 to 2: green housing. Pins 13 to 20 : blue housing. Pins 1 to 6 are the loudspeaker outputs to the amplifier. They are assigned only if an amplifier is installed. Pins 7 to 12 are the control leads for the CD changer. Pins 18 to 20 are the loudspeaker outputs of the CD changer. Pins 7 to 20 are assigned only if a CD changer is installed. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- D-Antenna lead -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- E-Fuse -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Plug I 1 - Video signal, red 2 - Video signal, green 3 - Free 4 - Free 5 - Free 6 - Terminal 31 7 - Free 8 - Free 9 - Free 10 - Terminal 30 for navigation 11 - Terminal 58 d 12 - Free 13 - Terminal 30 14 - Video signal, blue 15 - Video signal synchronisation 16 - Video signal ground 17 - Free 18 - Free 19 - Terminal31 20 - To combination plug IIIpin 6 21 - From combination plug IIIpin 11 22 - Free 23 - Fuel consumption signal 24 - Speed signal 25 - Free 26 - Terminal 30 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Plug II 1 - Diagnosis lead 2 - Terminal 15 3 - Terminal 86 s 4 - Data lead to navigation unit 5 - Free 6 - DSP (amplifier) ground 7 - Handsfree microphone ground 8 - Handset microphone 9 - Handset speaker 10 - Terminal 30, handset 11 - Free 12 - Voice output ground 13 - Voice output 14 - DSP (amplifier) 15 - Data lead from the heater / AlC unit 16 - Free 17 - Data lead from the navigation unit 18 - Free 19 - Free 20 - Handsfree microphone 21 - Handset ground 22 - Handset on-hook contact 23 - Free 24 - Free 25 - Free 26 - Free
  24. Hi there I'd like to remove my PCM 1 tomorrow to directly attach the Solisto Unit to the CD Changer port. At the moment I still have it in the trunk compartment including an iPod. Is there anything special I need to look after? I searched the site and all DIY seem to be a bit different to my car: 1. I have cup holders 2. the panel that needs to be pulled forward is one piece from the cigarette lighter up above the airvents Thanks! Ronny
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