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Howto Replace Tensioning Roller?


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The squeeling from one of my tensioning rollers gets louder and louder. Has anyone replaced this roller yet?

rolle.jpg

I couldn't find instructions in the manual. The most important question probably is can this been done without taking out the engine? I tried to measure it and guess it could work when I remove the servo pump wheel.

Any hints welcome :)

Thanks

Ronny

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Sorry ,never done it but in the repair manual page 643 you got the generator removal and the deflection roller is part of the job.... Hope this help....

Thanks but its the other deflection roller next to the AC Generator so further down the big metal engine carrier. I guess I'll find out on sunday...

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Ok, I can confirm that you cannot take that deflection roller out with the engine in place. The engne carrier is obstructing the srew, not much missing but not enough. I've added some lube and new srew-lock and the noise is gone for the moment...question is how long.

post-54108-0-60503500-1309701513_thumb.j

Edited by fedmax
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  • 8 months later...

Fedmax was not able to take it out because the bolt is touching the engine carrier. But the engine carrier can be remove with the engine in place see repair manual for water pump removal page 529. And if the bolt is still too long you have to take the generator bracket out of the car and it is a big job but, of course, it can be done. Everything is in the repair manual , start at page 646. Just took mine off about two weeks ago. But my engine is out, and it is in fact a good job. You have to drain the coolant and remove one of the elbow in front etc....

post-29683-0-80002200-1331955455_thumb.j

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  • 1 month later...

Ok, I can confirm that you cannot take that deflection roller out with the engine in place. The engne carrier is obstructing the srew, not much missing but not enough. I've added some lube and new srew-lock and the noise is gone for the moment...question is how long.

post-54108-0-60503500-1309701513_thumb.j

I finally got round to replacing the roller and as Fedmax posted, the bolt does indeed hit the engine carrier. I was about to start removing the exhaust to get at the engine carrier bolts and engine mounts when the idea of a long block of wood as a lever against the engine block moved the engine carrier enough to remove the bolt and fit the new roller. Hope this helps anyone intending to tackle the job.

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Ok, I can confirm that you cannot take that deflection roller out with the engine in place. The engne carrier is obstructing the srew, not much missing but not enough. I've added some lube and new srew-lock and the noise is gone for the moment...question is how long.

post-54108-0-60503500-1309701513_thumb.j

I finally got round to replacing the roller and as Fedmax posted, the bolt does indeed hit the engine carrier. I was about to start removing the exhaust to get at the engine carrier bolts and engine mounts when the idea of a long block of wood as a lever against the engine block moved the engine carrier enough to remove the bolt and fit the new roller. Hope this helps anyone intending to tackle the job.

Good to know, thanks for the info!

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  • 1 month later...

I finally got round to replacing the roller and as Fedmax posted, the bolt does indeed hit the engine carrier. I was about to start removing the exhaust to get at the engine carrier bolts and engine mounts when the idea of a long block of wood as a lever against the engine block moved the engine carrier enough to remove the bolt and fit the new roller. Hope this helps anyone intending to tackle the job.

Thanks for the insight and good to know that it works. One thing that stopped me from trying was the new deflection roller has a torx rather than a normal wench screw. Was that the same in your case? Did you just use the old screw? Here are the pictures:

post-54108-0-30734500-1341253777_thumb.j

post-54108-0-50581000-1341253782_thumb.j

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...

Can there be any faults with mounting that tensioning roller? Maybe tighten it too much? When the engine is warm the stupid thing makes the same noise again :-( Or material defect?

My car did exactly the same and after working round new pulleys, P/S pump, alternator, I replaced the 11 month old (2k mile) original Porsche belt with a Contitech one and all went quiet.

The problem I have is that on the new belt, the noise has returned after 1 month and slips when wet so the voltage at start up registers 12V for a minute or so until the belt grips again. When I replaced the belt the last time, I cleaned all the pulleys with brake cleaner and a brush. There is no oil leaking anywhere near the belt. I wonder if my tensioner is duff. I have replaced everything else.

Does anyone know if the tensioner can be replaced with the alternator removed or does the bracket it fits into have to be removed from the engine?

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