ukchris

Thanks Loren, do you happen to know if there is much room underneath it? Is it in a shallow depression or is it covering a hole?

Where it says "Boxster S" in the door sill, how does that piece come out? Is it clipped in or attached with sticky stuff? I don't want to pry at it and make a mess! Chris.

Inspired by this post I started my install last night, drivers side is done, it is using a lamp with three ultra bright LEDs in it stuck under the dash and wired to the dome light. It looks brighter in the picture than in real life and also white rather than blue, it's nicely subdued in person. Total cost < $10. Carpets need a clean...! Lights off: Lights on: Chris.

That's where I had mine too, if you position it just right it can still "see" backwards and it is all but hidden from your line of sight, my concern though was about it being visible and someone trying to steal it, hence why I wanted it between the seats. The mirror process is quite involved and I'm not really ready to divulge all of the steps yet, I should be making a few more soon though and they'll be cheaper than the alternatives. For mounting the remote display I had mine by my knee under the dash, you can see it down through the wheel but the mute switch is harder to reach. Chris.

I had seen the others, notably the BMW ones which was what started me off down this track, as you said it seemed Porsche ones were hard to find or very expensive ($900). I also wanted to have the text on the mirror to make it complete, idelly I'd like to have the lights behind a thin reflective layer but I don't think they are bright enough to show through. I was out yesterday on a bright day and i could read it fine, it wasn't super-bright but certainly clear enough to read. I'll probably make a couple more over the next fwe weeks and give them a whirl on ebay, it's much easier to let the market determine a price rather than try to come up with one. I'll also hopefully be experimenting with an auto dimming mirror soon. Chris.

I've probably spent more time on this than even the cruise/OBC hack but, finally, it is done! The process involved a lot of experimentation, patience and trying over and over again but I've finally got it to a stage I'm thrilled with. The pictures don't really do it justice, makbe I'll be able to take better pictures in the daylight. Still, I'm not planning on going through all the steps but I do have some extra mirrors so I may end up making a few more, maybe. But, for now, here it is, 100% home made V1 mirror: There is a mute button on the back (the white knob): And the V1 itself is now mounted in front of the wind deflector on an acrylic bracket: Now I just need to get the wire tucked in and it's all set! Chris.

I hear ya charlie, especially regarding the modular approach. I think the bracket looks a lot more obvious in the pictures as the flash really picks it up and makes it shine, it isn't really so bright in person. For me my main aim was to get it off of the windshield, I think it looks terrible and also is a bit of an invitation to thieves. Fitting my sun shade around it is a pain too!

When I first got my Boxster it already had a Valentine1 which was strapped to the side of the rollbar, I never really liked it there so one of the first things I did was move it. The windshield mount seemed to be the only option but I didn't want to block my field of view. The best I could manage was to tuck it behind the rearview mirror with just the rear sensor poking out, this has worked well but still looks ugly as heck from outside (IMHO). One other thing I discovered, the little dot near where it says "Laser" is in fact the rear facing radar detector which I was blocking. So, where to put it? This space has always seemed quite vacant: But how? Well, I'm going to need a bracket, time to get creative. A little design work, a little acrylic, a little laser cutting and some engraving to finish things off, I'm very happy with the results although it may need some adjustments yet but for a first prototype I'm thrilled. The V1 is attached with a thin magnet, I haven't given it a "twisty test" yet to see if the magnets need to be replaced with velcro. From the drivers side: From the passenger side: And the all important rear view: It isn't fastened to the car in any way, there's a slot below the speaker where the carpets meet that is a very snug fit and grips it nicely. To make this workable of course you have to have a remote display, mine is currently mounted under the dash by my knee where I can look down at it through the wheel and it is nicely shaded when the top is down. Interested to hear comments and opinions, I can have more of these made quite reasonably if people are interested but with hindsight would drop the logos to avoid any copyright type issues. Hopefully they'll not be too offended by just one infringement! Chris.

Pleased you gained some benefit from be breaking mine! :)

Take a look at this thread http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=9902 Then email JeffClark -at- sunsetimports.com and tell him you want the same cluster connector as Chris just ordered, we've been back and forth on this, he'll know what you mean!

Did you get this rectified? I have that part on its way to me in the mail, it was tricky to track down. Once I confirm that it is indeed the correct part I can get you the part number and ordering details if you still need them. Chris.

I agree with stumpjumper, it sounds like the mute line on the harness is shorting. On other comment though, I read recently that a good alternative to the ground loop isolator is to power the device from the +12V instead of the ignition, it is a much cleaner signal. If you want to power it automatically you can use the IGN connector and a relay to switch the power on and off. Good luck!

Thanks Jeff. Regarding which way up you install it I think all switches can go in either way but they generally have the "bump" on the outside (if I remember correctly) when installed in the "horseshoe".

Thanks Jeff, is the targa roof on the left and targa shade on the right? Just making sure!

I am consider in adding switches for a garage door opener, the spoiler and a power switch for my V1. I have assembled a list (below) but don't have pictures for all of these. In particular I'm wondering if anyone can tell me (or show me) the difference between the targa glass and targa shade switches? Chris. 996-613-141-00-A02 GLOSSY -1999 TRACTION CONTROL SYSTEM 222 996-613-145-00-A02 GLOSSY -2001 PSM OPTION 476 996-613-145-10-A05 MAT 2002- PSM 996-613-144-00-A02 GLOSSY -2001 CENTRAL LOCKING 996-613-134-00-A02 GLOSSY -2001 REAR WINDOW-DOOR MIRROR HEATING 996-613-134-10-A05 MAT 2002- REAR WINDOW-DOOR MIRROR HEATING 996-613-138-00-A02 GLOSSY -2001 CAB TOP SWITCH 996-613-138-10-A05 MAT 2002- CAB TOP SWITCH 996-613-136-00-A02 GLOSSY -2001 REAR WINDOW WIPER 996-613-136-10-A05 MAT 2002- REAR WINDOW WIPER 996-613-980-00 GLOSSY -2001 FOOTWELL LIGHTING 996-613-980-06-A05 *** MAT 2002- FOOTWELL LIGHTING 996-613-987-10-A05 MAT COUPE/TARGA SPORT EXHAUST 996-613-988-10-A05 MAT CAB SPORT EXHAUST 996-613-151-00-A02 GLOSSY -2001 POWER WINDOWS 996-613-151-10-A05 MAT 2002- POWER WINDOWS 996-613-147-00-A02 GLOSSY -2001 SUNROOF 996-613-147-10-A05 MAT 2002- SUNROOF 996-613-153-00-A02 GLOSSY -2001 SEAT HEATER LEFT 996-613-154-00-A02 GLOSSY -2001 SEAT HEATER RIGHT 996-613-153-10-A05 MAT 2002- SEAT HEATER LEFT 996-613-154-10-A05 MAT 2002- SEAT HEATER RIGHT 996-613-157-10-A05 *** MAT 2002- TARGA GLASS ROOF 996-613-119-10-A05 MAT 2002- SHADE FOR TARGA TOP 996-613-155-00-A02 GLOSSY 2001 996 TURBO REAR SPOILER 996-613-155-10-A05 *** MAT 2002- 996 TURBO REAR SPOILER

It looks like the airbag deactivation connector. Does it look like this close up? The wires on yours look much thinner, this picture is from a US spec car. Chris.

Well, apparently it is pna-721-043-00-446 this wasn't in the PET, a very helpful parts guy got it from the "techs secret book" of all places. $13 piece of plastic on its way!

2003 Boxster S On the back of the cluster there are three locking connectors, gray, green and blue. I need the part number for the gray housing and the black 36 pin insert that is inside it. I this the gray piece is 999.650.509.40 but cannot confirm it, the black piece says AMP 929.400-1 on it but the only reference I can find to that online is a pin header from 3M (from Mouser or Digikey). Any help appreciated! Chris.

Okay, I did the cruise/obc install this weekend and it all went pretty well. I hope to do a more detailed write up but while it is fresh in my mind I thought I'd mention a few things people might want to consider in anticipation of doing this hack, no rocket science here, just some notes on things that held me up a little. When removing the airbag (after disconnecting the battery of course) you need a T30 torx, the trick is getting to it though. It's easier with the cluster out but even then space is limited. Some screwdriver style torx drivers may be too long, take a look at where the screws are and plan appropriately. I ended up with a combination of bits as my torx bits are part of a socket set and "holder" would not reach in to the hole where the screw is. To get behind the fuse box remove the cover then take out four screws, this will release the carpet panel covering the fuse box area. The fuse box is clipped to a plastic mounting bracket but it's a pain to unclip it, haf way down the side nearest to the door there is a screw, remove it and the whole assembly will come off, you can then easily take the panel off the bracket. The wiring in the wheel - it isn't complicated but take note of where it is so you know how to put it back. The top and bottom of the column covers take some wiggling to get back in to place, it isn't hard, just fiddly. Remember they attach to the outside of the stalk "box", they don't go behind it. You'll need a 24mm socket to remove the steering wheel nut, 15/16" will work at a push (thanks Charlie!). My socket sets didn't have anything this big so it's a shame to get held up half way through. When removing the cluster have some towels handy, as soon as you lift it up shove one underneath, there are sharp lugs under there that WILL mark you dash. You don't have to remove the hazard switch, once the three connectors are unhooked you can twist it round and out it on the passenger side of the dash. (on a towel) Don't drop screws under the drivers seat!! When inserting the connectors on the yellow wires into the harness there is a right way and a wrong way. Look at the harness connector, there is a slot that runs along it that will align with the "slot" in the wire connector. Thanks to Richard, Charlie and Loren for their help as ever, if you guys have anything to add please do so!

I ran for a while with a GPS mounted by the cabin filter in the front trunk. With the hood open you can easily reach under and stick it to the underside of the plastic piece that surrouds the wipers. There is a hole behind the battery where you can route the cable in to the car. Chris.

Thanks, Walmart is the only place open, had to buy a 20 piece socket set... oh well!! On we go...!

I haev the airbag off and my biggest socket is 21mm which is too small so I need to run out and buy one!

I think I'm becoming your shadow Charlie... this looks so good it's next on my list now too!!

Can you pull the wires out? The connectors might privide some clues. It could be an FM Modulator but I can't see why it would need a battery pack. If it's a Lojack I wouldn't call it "well hidden"!

The glove box or cubby between the seats, probably the latter, make sure it is fastened securely.