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davej_anderson

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About davej_anderson

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    Boxster S

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  1. davej_anderson
    If you car didn't come with door speakers then they definately aren't pre-wired. Upgrading the whole system and using the stock wiring pins seems pointless. I ran new cables into the doors (a real pain in the hoop) but believe that it was worthwhile. Only thing is that if the doors need to come off, the wiring needs to be taken out and redone.
  2. davej_anderson
    Cassiebox- Actually, I have already upgraded the factory speakers. Put new Alpines in both the dash & door. But with the factory amp still in, they sound as crappy as the factory Nokia speakers that came out. That's why I want to replace the Becker CDR-220 with a higher powered head unit and wire the speakers directly into it and bypass the amp. Any advice on hard wiring? Which set of plugs at the amp location go to the speakers? Are you sure you want to replace the HU? The Becker units are actually pretty good. The problem you have is that the new speakers are probably underpowered by the amp. You'd be far better off installing a new amp instead of the HU and run the speakers off the amp. Also, did you fit larger speakers to the OE door enclosures? If yes, then the speakers won't be working efficiently - far better to mount on a wooden baffle.
  3. davej_anderson
    I think its great, I've got the PSE on my car: The pre-facelift boxster rear end always seemed too high and this was the perfect solution
  4. davej_anderson
    Yes you can but on the 02- model there is a pre-tensioner charge and electrical connector - make sure you block off the connector. Quite a simple job as long as the main bolt undoes easily.
  5. davej_anderson
    I retrofitted door speakers to my car which only had the base audio pack. Its a pain in the hoop. The way I did it was to feed the speaker wire through the existing cable tidy from inside the cabin, enlarge the hole in the connector and feed it through both sets of connectors (instead or using the pins which Porsche says you should in it technical bulletin) and feed the wires again up through the cable tidy into the doors. It does mean, however, if they want to take the door off, the speaker wire needs to be pulled all the way back through. To get the wires through the firewall, there is a rubber grommet just behind the battery that you can pierce and feed the wires through there. Make sure to seal it up again using some silicone sealant or you might get wet feet!
  6. davej_anderson
    Yep I added an MDF speaker ring to add some weight/damping to the OEM factory bracket
  7. davej_anderson
    Darly I fitted a set of 3way rainbow speakers (365 SLCs) connected to a 2channel Genesis amp to my '00 S which only came with the basic audio pack. PM me if you've got any questions (although I must confess that I'm not ICE genius and probably wouldn't go through the process as it took me months to complete as I didn't have a garage to work in - the car was parked on the street so taking the doors apart got many strange looks from onlookers in London!)
  8. davej_anderson
    If you have the basic system then all you have is 2 3.5" speakers. As a quick upgrade, you can replace these with a 4" coaxial - this will require the speaker cover to be modified to secure the speaker to it. I had the basic system and installed a set of 3-way rainbow speakers powered by a genesis 2 channel amp. Hardest bit was building the baffles for the door speakers then routing the cables into the doors as they are not pre-wired.
  9. davej_anderson
    PM me your email address if you want a guide I put together for installing a Becker Traffic Pro (showing speed, reverse and gps connections etc)
  10. davej_anderson
    so i need the panels? i alreafdy got the amp to retro install I'm currently going through the process of completely overhauling the stereo in my '00 S which only had the base stereo. Its a big job and a pain in the *** if you don't have a workshop/garage to work in. But basically I've added a Genesis 2 channel amp and a set of Rainbow 3-way speakers. I bought a new set of door cards as I wanted to try to keep everything looking as OEM as possible but here's a list of everything I needed to do: 1. replace dash speakers with tweeter and midrange speaker which involved cutting the original speaker mount to enable the fitment of the larger midrange and tweeter and then epoxy securing them. 2. make a custom baffle to add the woofer and mount to the door 3. sound proof the door i.e. make the door the enclsoure 4. mount the crossovers under the dash 5. mount the amp in the front boot 6. wire everything up - ie getting RCA and remote from the HU to the amp, wiring the amp for power off the battery and the hardest part - getting speaker wire into the doors for the woofers In retrospect, would I do this again, maybe. Its been a long and hard slog and the improvement is huge but was it worth it, who knows......
  11. davej_anderson
    Ill see if removing the key does anything Thanks for your help
  12. davej_anderson
    Yep I'm from London and yep, its very loud as I've found out in the past! And it takes a while to reconnect and get the jey back in the ignition making me popular with the neighbours. The only reason I asked was due to the warning about working near the airbag which I will be doing when adding speakers to my door. Looks like I just have to go with key in the ignition and the battery disconnected.
  13. davej_anderson
    Did you leave the key in the ignition?
  14. davej_anderson
    Reading some of the TSBs and the workshop manuals, I noticed that some instructions tell you to remove the negative connector on the battery and then to remove the key e.g. removing the door. Surely this will cause the alarm to go off as I thought you had to leave the key in the ignition turned to position II when removing the battery to stop the alarm going off. Any insights or thoughts as to why Porsche would tell their staff to do this? Or am I wrong and you can remove the key once the battery has been removed?
  15. davej_anderson
    I got the Porsche S/S installed at the weekend and its great. My shifting was quite stiff and notchy when cold - this hasn't gone away but the stiffness and notchyness with the reduced throw makes it feel a lot more precise. I hated the length of thrown from 1st to 2nd, now its spot on. I also find that its easier to select the gear I want when really pushing it without having to hun around the gearbox for a quick shift.
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