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mattatk

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Everything posted by mattatk

  1. mattatk
    Not too much to the job. I am truly an amateur & still managed to fix the fob. eBay or the above link for the microswitches. Get a cheap small soldering iron. Plier off the old switch, making sure you note where it came off the circuit board. Solder on new switch. Hopefully, job done!
  2. mattatk
    Check eBay, I found a five pack of microswitches for £4.90 in UK. Postage cheap as it is a small package. Very simple procedure, break off old switch & solder new one on. Worked a treat.
  3. mattatk
    Had a similar problem with my clutch, changed out the clutch components (it was slipping) but still had problems with sticking clutch on & off over a month or so. Eventually bit the bullet & replaced the clutch master cylinder as I suspected that it was leaking internally. Now it works a treat & I pulled old cylinder apart (about 90000kms life I think, unless it was changed by a previous owner). One of the seals looked like a dog had been chewing on it, my guess is that fluid was sneaking past the seal & equalising the pressure both sides of the cylinder & therefore sticking the pedal around half way. Below is a link to an exploded view & explanation of a similar clutch master cylinder, which may help with the diagnosis? http://www.4g63turbo.com/tech/eclips...djustment.html Good luck!
  4. mattatk
    Well, out of interest & just in case someone else suffers the same fate (or has this been covered to death?). I pulled the clutch master cylinder & found an internal seal all chewed up. I guess it was allowing fluid past hence the reluctance of the pedal to return to the up position. Found a good link (posted below) explaining the internal workings of the master, different design but from inspection, it appears to work the same as a boxster master. http://www.4g63turbo.com/tech/eclips...djustment.html
  5. mattatk
    Ben, Did you ever get any codes for the ABS/PSM faults?
  6. mattatk
    Just out of interest, I wasn't aware of the brake booster check in the Bentley Manual... With engine off, pump brake pedal approx 10 times. Start engine with brake pedal still firmly depressed. If brake pedal sinks a bit lower on starting, then booster should be OK (I guess it's due to the vacuum assistance coming in)
  7. mattatk
    I'll order a new reservoir & master cylinder for starters then. Thanks again Loren for your help.
  8. mattatk
    Booster looks great, no obvious leaks/damage. Master cylinder has a few drops of fluid hanging from underneath. Looks like a slight leak from reservoir attachment points to master cylinder. Rather than replacing the master cylinder or reservoir could some form of silicon sealant be applied to the leak?
  9. mattatk
    Dave, Did you find out what caused the problem? I've just experienced a similar problem with my 2001 Boxster S (986) with PSM. - Reasonably heavy braking into corner & spirited acceleration out of the corner led to brakes locking on & PSM OFF & ABS lights on the dash illuminating. - Pulled car over, turned off & restarted. Brakes still locked. - Disconnected battery for 5 minutes & heard a few possibly ) gurgling fluid noises forward of the dash. - Reconnected battery as the brakes had released. - Restarted car & ABS PSM OFF lights exinguished. - Car drove normally home. Any suggestions please? Cheers, Matt
  10. mattatk
    OK update for anyone with clutch issues... Tried to bleed again today & no joy. My wife came along & asked to help. I got her pumping the clutch so I could check the activity at the slave cylinder bleed. She was a bit rough with the pedal & slammed it to the stop, which forced out a blockage (maybe?) & we started to get a flow intermittently. I experimented with the pedal down (as recommended) & up. When the pedal was sitting up this time, fluid began to flow fast out the bleed nipple ?! Thinking of the flow diagram, it shouldn't happen. Pressing the pedal in, which should port fluid to the slave & bleed, stopped the flow. I pulled the pedal up again & it flowed freely, clearing out a few big bubbles. Finished the bleed & car drove fine (although clutch initially wouldn't return the last few centemetres until a few minutes into the drive). Problem appears to be solved but the clutch bleed with pedal up has totally confused me. Could the master cylinder be on the way out & leaking through an internal seal in the chamber?
  11. mattatk
    Just did the job using Pelican Parts guide, not too difficult. I tried for ages to get the bearing off the shaft but there isn't enough room unless you drop the sway bar & cat converter. Used Swepco 101 grease.
  12. mattatk
    Dear All, I'm still having problems with my clutch. Earlier this year I fitted a new clutch (thanks Pelican Parts for all the good parts & advice!). When I bled the clutch the pedal stayed stuck to the floor. I tried pumping the clutch pedal with the pressure bleeder attached & managed to get the clutch pedal working partially ( I had to get my foot under it & pulling it back up after a gear change whilst driving). Tried today to bleed the clutch again, this time I managed to get a bit of dirty fluid (debris flakes in the fluid) out very slowly (had 20psi on the motive bleeder). Then nothing came out. I tried various combinations of clutch pedal up, down & pumping (as it worked last time) to no avail. The clutch pedal remains stuck to the floor & no clutch operation?! I am wondering if: 1. master cylinder has failed (no sign of leaks though) 2. save cylinder has failed (not sure why it would cause these symptoms) 3. clutch line is blocked with debris (what is the debris from ? corrosion?) 4...... Thanks in advance..
  13. mattatk
    Yes me also, I'd love to read the article & also ask for any recommendations on CV joint grease choice? Thanks in advance
  14. mattatk
    Bled the clutch again today, well tried & with 20psi pressure bleeder attached & clutch pedal depressed, no flow out the bleed nipple. Deduced that the master cylinder is not porting fluid down to the slave (bleed nipple), so it must be broken or blocked. No leaks in the area & will take a while to get my replacement from Pelican Parts, so I experimented by cycling the clutch pedal whilst bleed pressure was attached. Heard a gurgling noise in the footwell & clutch pedal began to get some feel. Disconnected the bleed & pumped the pedal some more. Much more feel although still sticking down a bit. Lowered the car & clutch worked normally albeit sticking slightly. Will try again tomorrow to bleed a bit more. I think I've either cleared a blockage or air lock (?) or the master cylinder is working intermittently. So I'll order one from Pelican anyway to be safe. Thanks all for the input so far...
  15. mattatk
    HELP?! All done & back together!! Did a bleed as per the Bentley manual (had the clutch pedal in for it). But now the clutch pedal doesn't come back to the release position, definitely no feel, stays stuck down or up if pulled on (maybe no system pressure?). With pedal in (engine running) I try to engage a gear & the gear lever resists (feels like the clutch isn't engaging?) No sign of leaks in the usual spots. Can anyone shed any light please?
  16. mattatk
    OK finally got time to get stuck into it. The clutch disc looked reasonable, the pressure plate looks OK, the flywheel is slightly discoloured (heat damage?). There appears to be quite a lot of black dust deposit on the release lever & throwout bearing in the transmission casing & at the base of the engine casing behind the flywheel (RMS leak maybe?). The IMS is caked in black deposit. Not sure if it's oil or clutch dust, anyway I'll pull the flywheel to check the RMS whilst it's convenient.
  17. mattatk
    Just got back from a four day work trip & had another crack at it this time with 4 other bolts back in & using a bolt out tool (can't get craftsman in Oz near me, so I used a Ingam one - pretty much the same by the photos). Finally came out !! What a relief thanks all for your input, I owe you somehow. Cheers, Matt
  18. mattatk
    Wow, thanks for the quick replies! I am constantly impressed with this forum, always plenty of enthusiasts & experts who are decent enough to offer help/advice. It was a bit hard to see what type of bolt it was as it was SO damaged! I'm the third owner so who knows when it was "tortured". I've sprayed it with WD40 (is it as good as the PB blaster?). I guess I could have made the same mistake, as what I could see of it, it looked like a torx head. It's the last bolt in the tranny & I'm wondering if, even though I've got the tranny & engine supported, that there could be a bit of side force acting on the bolt. Should I put a couple of tranny bolts back in to ensure alignment of the thread? Thanks again for your help, I really appreciate it. Matt
  19. mattatk
    Dear All, I am hoping someone may be able to tell me how to remove my stripped torx head bolt in my transmission on my 01 Boxster S. I am in the process of removing the tranny to change the clutch & have removed all bar one bolt. The bolt is the only torx head bolt on the transmission to engine connection. It resides low down on the left hand side (looking from behind the car) which makes it very hard to get at. I cleaned the head off to remove it & noticed that it was stripped inside the head. I tried my torx head on my shifter but it just got worse. I've tried vice grips & hammer & chisel to no avail. Does anyone have any other ideas? Sincerely, Matt
  20. mattatk
    Family duties kept interrupting!! Spent 1/2 day & got as far as removing transmission mount brackets, was going to work into evening but I broke my 1/2" adaptor socket for my wrench! Looking forward to getting into it tomorrow. Found that the muffler can be removed without pulling the rear bumper off but it is fairly difficult to access/find the top bolts holding the muffler to the bracket. Bentley manual didn't really show the location of the bolts. Unfortunately I found one inner CV boot damaged. Looked inside the boot & looks pretty clean. Obviously I'll be hassling Pelican Parts for a new boot, but is there an easy way to tell if the bearing inside has copped any damage from dirt/debris ingestion?
  21. mattatk
    Gathering final intel on my first clutch job. Quick question for the experts: Both the Bentley manual & workshop manual state that you need to remove the drive axles from the car for tranny removal, but I read an online article stating that you can simply disconnect the inner CV joints from tranny. Is this possible?
  22. mattatk
    Off on leave for 2-4weeks so I won't tackle the job till late Jul-Aug. I'll grab my wife's camera & grab some hi-res photos for anyone interested. Thanks again!
  23. mattatk
    Thanks Wayne, I had noticed that it was best to replace all components & had ordered the Sachs three piece clutch kit & extras to change everything except the flywheel (gulp, I hope!!). The clutch really feels a lot better after the bleed but definitely slipping, hence my plan to change it out. I appreciate your advice. Cheers, Matt
  24. mattatk
    Further... I did a bleed on the clutch hydraulics whilst waiting for clutch parts to ship to me (in Australia). As per the manual, I had the clutch pedal fully depressed for the bleed. I am curious though, it doesn't tell you when to release the clutch pedal in the process. Do you seal everything up & then pull the pedal forward (as I did) or when the pressure from the bleeder is still on the reservoir? Also, is it OK to apply the pressure on the reservoir with air only, or should the bleeder have fluid in it? I did remove quite a few bubbles from the line athough there were no previous signs of leaks in the system. The clutch feels good when driving, the pedal is lighter. Initially I had to help pull the pedal back up each operation, but it is slowly getting firmer & springing back to upright position now (is that because I didn't bring the pedal back whilst there was pressure in the system from the bleeder?). Unfortunately the clutch does slip in high gear uphill with plenty of throttle applied, so I am going to proceed with a full clutch replacement when the parts turn up.
  25. mattatk
    dh986320S, Interesting that you say that, the engagement point of the clutch did feel higher up. I don't think there's any slippage, the clutch just seemed to be much easier to use! Having said that I felt like it had lost a bit of power, which could be attributed to minor slippage. More to follow...
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