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BoxsterTaff

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Everything posted by BoxsterTaff

  1. Thanks Loren, I have the engine open, and I can hear air 'leaking' from the area of the intake manifolds, so I'll keep looking for the leak - any suggestions on spotting it, or shoudl I just start to dismantle the intake system and find the crack/hole/bad seal? I assume the leak is down stream of the MAF which is making the mixture lean? Now the MAF has me stumped, I will clean it anyway, but....... I'm a Civil Eng so once I get into electrics I am stumped! How can I test for the open circuit or ground fault? These would be a worn cable i presume? Thanks Andy
  2. I've just bought an ainnova 3100 diagnostic reader from amazon for $89.00 (which i thought was a bargain price) as I've been having a few issues with my 97' Boxster and wanted to become less dependant on taking her to the tech each time. So I've recently had the pre cat O2 sensor replaced on the drivers side, but its still idling rough, so i plugged in the new meter and got the following codes: P0102 - mass or volume air flow circuit low input P1124 - O2S sensing range 1 cyl 1-3 P1126 - O2S Sensing range 1 cyl 4-6 I'm going to clean the MAF sensor first, and see if this then balances the O2 readings - my assumption being that if the MAF is giving bad readings it will result in the O2 sensors results not being what the comp thought they should be based on the MAF (false) readings? Any suggestions guys.
  3. Boy my luck is on a run! Trans rebuild, new O2 sensor, new fuel pump and now coolant all over the floor! Looks like the same issue that Jinster had. I took a run (ironically to see if the CEL light would come on for another issue - I bought a code diagnostic tool, will let you all know how it performs) for 30mins, then left the car to idle for 10, after which the coolant came gushing out of the overflow pipe inboard of the rear right wheel. Temp was at the right edge of the 180 letteing on the cluster gauge. So, I've ordered a new cap (mine was original, ended in 01), checked it for leaks (dry as a bone in the tank.....old leaves under the trunk liner(?!?) testify to that..... My question is guys, do I need to be worried about any other causes, or have i just had a dempnstration of the reservoir cap issue? Right......may as well clean the MAF and intake valve whilst i wait for the new cap - that was the original plan for today :-) Pic of the overflow for those who may have the same issue....I hope you don't!
  4. Try 7104 Genius Loren - worked first time! Thanks a million.
  5. Hi Loren I've just had some major repair work done (see my thread 'Transmission bust I think' - I've tried to be as desciptive of the problem as someone as technically absent as myself!) Anyway, Radio code is needed! CDR210 (1997 - Boxster) Serial Number V5007961 Thanks in advance! Andy
  6. Well its back, and shifting better than ever! Basically it was the pump that went out which led to the dumping of the transmission fluid - the leaking seals were a sign for sure. I think if anyone has a Boxster that they feel might not be shifing smoothly then its probably worth getting it checked out, if it had been diagnosed as a failing pump I might not have been in for a re-build after the fluid dump! Tech rebuilt the transmission, changed the RMS and some other stuff (dip stick tube etc) and checke the IMS. He said the IMS bearing looked like new, no leak and the plastic on the bearing was intact and there was no play in the bearing at all - so we agreed to leave it alone. Whilst at the garage he also diagnosed a bad O2 sensor on the left cat which was resulting in the left bank running hot (car has always run to the ight of vertical on the temp gauge so long as i have had it - he changed that out, put in new plugs to all 6 cyl and tuned the engine. All told my Boxster's little adventure came in at $4400, but it runs great now!
  7. Dale, I haven't spoken to him this week, we've had a little snow in Dallas (I blame the Steelers / Cheese Heads for bringing it with them) so the city has closed for business! I suspect it was the slow drip - to low fluid etc. I'll besure to post his findings. I looked at used Trans, but to b honest the Tips are running at $1500 - $2000 used with no inspection. So to me the additional $1k for a re-build made sense, I plan to keep the car so I don't want to be concerned that my bargain +60k miles transmission may have had a hard life pre 60k......
  8. Quick update, i've been out of town for a few days but the Boxster has been with the indy. I spoke with him today, and the transmission will need to be refurbished, which luckily for me he can do homself. He said there was a lot of damage the torque converter, and gear damage (presumably from overheating when the fluid dumped) - he said the case looks good through. He's looking at $4,100.00 to rebuild it Other 'shinnier' Dallas garages were talking $6900 and had to send the trans to other firms), and take care of a couple of small other 'things' i've asked hom to look at. I'll call in to the garage and get mor einfo from him, so I can do a better post for you guys. I want to be able to shed some light on the failure, rather than have a lot of people needlessly worry that their transmissoin may go out. For now, it was preceeded with: I bought the car at a good price, a year ago, with a view to keeping it and doing any repairs it needed for the 10-20 years! It was always a bit 'jumpy' going from 2-3rd. Also, and i don't know if this is a 'boxster thing' it would never start in 1st, always 2nd (though you could engage 1st with the tip). After a run, it had a 'hot' smell, and the engine would run slightly to the right of vertical on the temp gauge, I am assuming the two are related for now. Selecting reverse also resulted in a jolt. There was some oil residue at the rear of the car, i thnk i poseted a thread on this with pics a year ago. I am pretty sure that was transmission fluid. Prior to the big failure, the first sign of trouble was that it would not select 5th, the mechanic told me that is the first gear to loose as the transmission loose pressure as 5th takes the most pressure to engage. This was rapidly (within 15 miles) followed by the melt-down detailled above. More once I have spoken to the garage owner next week. He thinks I'll get it back towards the end of the week. Let me know if there is interest to continue guys.
  9. Well - Its in the local Indy Garage, I'll let you guys know what he finds, along with my best attempt to descirbe anythink relevant that might have led to this so you can all avoid it!
  10. Hey thanks Mike, I've contact a couple of indies, I have stayed away from the 'transmission shops' as I assumed that they would not work on a Boxster? Do you think they would? I am trying to find a garage that a) seems to know their way around a boxster, b gives a reasonable estimate for replacing the transmission. I plan to send it in once i know what I could be into, and if it turns out to be repairable failure then all the better......i am just skeptical having seen the amount of fluid that came out!
  11. ok, here's a thought. Does anyone know if it is possible, advisable (based on cost etc) to convert a trip tronic to a manual? What's involved etc. I prefer manual tansmissions, and as I am looking at having to buy a reconditioned auto trans, I was thinking maybe I should just convert it?
  12. Thanks for your replies guys. here is the whole dirty story! Yesterday was the first time in two weeks i managed to get to take her out, she is a weekend car. Two weeks ago, on the way back from the store in her, she started playing up - didn't want to engage 5th, 'rough'' shifting down, and up esp between 2nd and 3rd. So yesterday, i decided to take a small ride to see what was up, i made it a mile, and by this point i could hear a 'grinding' noise, i turned around, and made it on to the drie before it dumped fluid, hard so say how much but a good few quarts. It was a black/silver grey color, and yes had a burnt odor. As for the history, I bought the car a year ago, and have done about 3k since, so i don't know the service history of the transmission, it has 85k on the clock. I've contacted a local indy to see what they think. Or i may look into buying a rebuilt trans and fitting myself. I suspect with the amount of oil that came out that it may beyond rebuilding......Well, I did say I wanted to keep it until she bacame a classic! So i'll need ot fix her either way! P.S. the oil you see in the photo, is but a fraction of the wound! That was after the clean-up :-(
  13. Hey guys, bad news for me, I think my transmission just went out. 1997 Boxster 2.5 Trip. Gears were slipping, turned around and went home (4-6mins), got there just in time to get no traction in gear, and dump a load of oil. Pic attched is of the belly, and the pink 'think' that was in the oil. Does anyone recognise this part, I haven't called the garage yet, but I am guessing this is a total transmissioon failure. Anyone have any advice?
  14. Thanks for the tutorial guys! I just adjusted mine (from zero brakes to a good hold) in 30 mins......on my 97' Boxster.
  15. Hi - I am not sure where the leak is coming from myself (I am new to Boxsters), but I do have some oil in the same place on my 97', though not quiet as wet as the pick you have posted. From dealing with oil leaks in the past, I know that cleaning it off well with a good cleaning fluid then running the vehicle for a few miles will make it a lot easier to spot the source of the leak. Sorry that's all the advice I can offer, hope you solve it. Andy
  16. Yeeha this is great work! It looks like a brand new motor! I have only recently (1 week!) bought a 97'boxster with 87k on the clock.....I am already planning to do what you have done here next winter, you make it look very manageable with the right tools and equipment......I would feel much better with new chains, gaskets and seals on the block. Thanks for a great post! Andy
  17. Well - turns out the regulator was shot, the cable was frayed, so off with the door and in with a new one. Thanks agaain to the collective wisdom of the Rentec forum! Tonight was the first drive with the roof down.........priceless! I'll let you all know what the bodyshop says about the sheet metal behind the soft top transmission once I get it in. Andy
  18. Great advice, thanks. I have seen Tool Pant's calm shell adjusting thread, interesting technique, i'll take it! I'll be sure to circle back once i know more, so we leave a trail for others to follow! Andy
  19. Thanks Maurice, very helpful. Can you see that the plane the disk behind the V-rod is on is not vertical, it leans out (to the right on the pic) at the top and in at the bottom, I assume I'll need to straighten this? Motor cables will need to be replaced I think, the piece that extends into the motor seems to have snapped. Roof is another issue, goes easy to about 1 inch from engaging, then gets real stiff. I wondered if it might have shrunk a little (who knows how long it has been folded up under the Hard top?), once it is up it all looks aligned, i've left it 'up' to see if it'll streach out some. Also with the soft top uo, the clam shell sits 2/8 - 3/8 inch high on the left side, fouled by the rear of the hood? Thansks, too many questions I know! If I get to NY I'll buy you some beers for sure!
  20. Maurice Pics of the damage: Will have to get in to the air intake with the camera later... What do you see?
  21. Ok, I will. The soft top goes up, but takes some pulling to get it to lock to the windscreen frame, more than the motor would provide I am sure. Whilst the Carfax states no accident damage, I have to think that something has happened to the right side? how else could these parts have been bent? I can't really cpmplain, I got a good lump off the sticker price for the roof 'not working' and it has a removable hard top too (I just like to have things working!) I'll post pics later. Thanks
  22. Hey thanks, wow, sounds like just the smae issue. I took the vent off yesterday to get a good look behind the transmission as it looked like the metal had been stressed. I have some pics of the transmission side but neglected to take any through the air intake (though taking it off is a 2 min job, i'll do some this evening). The sheet metal has been twisted, you can see where it has 'folded' or creased. there is a Triangular 'frame' bolted on the inside and it too is slightly bent. No rips or tears in the metal though, so I was considering whether a body shop might be able to 'bend/hammer' it back into line. Other than that, and a few replacements for a broken 'v' bar (not sure what that is called) I think the hood will work ok. I'll get some pictures on tonight. Thanks again for your help Maurice. Andy
  23. The only two plugs that you have to remove to be able to see the torx adjusting bolt are the two OUTBOARD ones. Take a look at post #2 in the following thread for a photo of exactly what you are looking for through those two holes: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=16939&st=0&p=84996&hl=%20window%20%20torx%20%20outboard&fromsearch=1entry84996 Regards, Maurice. Hey thanks Maurice! Forgive the simple newbie question! I'll take a look at that tomrrow, I could see those screws when I looked in there today. I have plenty more questions, some oil gunk under the engine (not dripping) and some roof problems (the right actuator(?) / V' bar the pullys attach to is broken, but at some point has been stressed so it bent the metal inner bodywork it bolts too, so it is not straight....I have pics, would be interested to learn wheather ou have seen this happen before?
  24. Hi - I've just picked up a 1997 Boxster 2.5L as a weekend car / obession! First off I was really pleased to find this forum, there is so much great advice and collective expertise on here, even a newbie like me can see myslef doing some work on my Boxster. I have been through all the 'Window' topics I could find, but my question is: The window works, (a little creaky but I'd don''t think the regulator is going to go immediatly), but stops 1/3 inch below the desired point at the top. I read that the 'stop limit' can be adjusted by bolts on the underside of the door, I removed the 4 plugs there, but only see 2 bolts that hold the mechanism to the frame. In the other 2 holes I can see the guides etc but no obvious bolts to adjust? Does this ring a bell with anyone? Pic of the window Gap attached. Thanks for any help or Advice. Any other Boxster lovers in Plano/Allen/Frisco in here who like to work on their cars?
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