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oskibear
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Battery drain
oskibear replied to GHG's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)
Perhaps the battery for the alarm. If the battery alarm goes bad, then it draws current for the car battery. So Im told. -
RoW to US (California) spec
oskibear replied to oskibear's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)
You make a very good point... I'm in London and my guess is that it is worth about £40K, (£38K on a bad day), so that would get me $60-65K at the current exchange rate... I might well be able to save myself a big hassle... The car was a gift from a weathly friend, so am concerned that my wife will give me a lot of **** if I have the cash and spend it on a replacement... She woulkd expect me to downgrade and spend the extra cash on house/her car, etc... -
I own a 2006 997 Cab 4S auto that is a Rest of World (RoW) spec ie Left hand drive with gauges in Kilometers, (but digital in Miles). I've owned it here in the EU for over a year but am anticipating moving back to California later this year. I am under the impression that it would not be too difficult to get it up to California specs and that it might simply be a matter of some tuning via the ECU or some such. Can anyone shed some light on this subject or point me to some online resources? Any suggestions on an importer to use? Can/will Porsche do this for me? Thanks
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Air conditioner
oskibear posted a topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)
My A/C blows HOT no matter the temp settings... I'm not saying it is not getting cold enough, I am saying it is roasting hot as if the heater is blasting. I took it in to my local shop (not OPC) for servicing (40K) and had them take a look. They said the system was charged a bit too high and so they relieved the pressure a bit and they said it then worked for a minute or two... They also said that the pipes are getting cold so the system itself is working... They think it is in the controls somewhere... Any suggestions from the collective??? -
My 2006 Cab 4S had sat for 2 weeks, and I had to charge the battery to start it. A week or so later I went to top up the oil and noticed a bit of "choclate milk" on the inside of the oil filler cap and a bit around the opening of the tube. If it was a heavier coating I would immediatly suspect a head-gasket. I am hoping that someone will tell me that a bit of humity built up in the engine while it sat through the rapid change from summer to winter. Perhaps it condensed at the high spot in the loop and created this? 3 q-tips and a few wipes of the paper towel and it is good as new. It needs to head in for a service so I'll have it checked out, but I wanted to get some feedback from the collective. Regards, Oski Go Bears!
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All the chatter about the IMS had me thinking... Does my Nov 2005 built C4S Cab have the revised IMS? Running the VIN through "Scouser's decoder" :thankyou: shows a 2006 model year... It has the number 6 as the tenth diget in the VIN. Can some guru out there put my mind at ease?
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Boy did I go through the rears quickly on my 997 C4S. The middle bit of the tyre looks fine, even the outer edge still looks good... but the inner part went right into the cord when I wasn't paying attention. From the wear pattern, I would guess that they have quite a bit of camber to the set up... does this sound right or do I need a rear wheel alignment?
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My question is the opposite... I have an RoW model, that I would one day like to bring back to the USA... It might even end up in California... It sounds like it may be possible for Porsche to re-map the ECU to pass the strict SMOG test??? Or are there other issues at play here that make my plan unfeasable???
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Funny... before I bought my 997 4S from a friend, I had borrowed it driven it a few times whenever I was visting him... I mentioned to him that he should have it checke out as I thought the front-end floated around a bit... He mentioned it to his wife, who has only ever owned/driven porsches, and her response was: "how many porsches have you driven"... the implication was that they did that all did this... Now that I own it, I have become acclimated to the light front-end... It feels less solid than my front-engine BMW, but must admit that it still seems to perform accurate, even though it feels like it is floating... so perhaps it is just the nature of rear-engine high performance cars... Perhaps a bit of weight in the boot (not an elegant solution) or it needs more down-force... a nice aftermarket nose that generates more downward force on the front-end might do it...
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Through a bizarre set of circumstances, a high-end (not OPC) dealer in Marbella was supposed to service my '06 Cab 4S... They were in a mad rush to get the car ready for me... painting the front bumper, pulling some minor dents, replacing the battery and a "service". I had to remind them to stamp the book just as I was driving away to bring the car back to the UK... Now in the UK, and the "service" reminder is coming on... So clearly they did not reset it... Now I am wondering if the actually even did service the car (specifically change the oil). With the electronic oil measure, there seems to be no way to visually inspect the oil... Although I would agree that it might possible be difficult to verify this even if I could see it... Are there any suggestions from the collective on how to inspect this, or should I just have it changed again as it could not hurt? I would also like to reset the service light... any suggestions on this? I imagine most shops would be hesitant to reset this if they have not done the work...
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it sure seems simple with no need to remove the calipers from the rotor... a first for me! On a small number of brake jobs I've done, it is as simple as you describe... just apply some good leveraged pressure against the pistons in the calipers to push them apart. Some jobs have required the opening of the bleed valves to allow the pressure to easily escape... This makes some sense as the effort to push the fluid all the way back through the master cylinder and into the reseviour can be difficult to produce. Other times have been a real b*tch and I've had to used a "C" clamp and open the bleed valve to get the pistons pushed back... It seems that you are saying the 1st option to use some leverage with channel locks will be enough...?? Thanks for the help! Oski
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Thanks Loren! It is just what I was looking for... One question relating to seperating the old pads far enough to insert the new wider pads. In the following step: "first set back the brake pads as far as possible with the piston resetting fixture". What is location and operation of the "piston resetting fixture"? Regards, Oski
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Hi Loren, Not surprised you had the answer... as I have seen excellent responses from you on this subject. I live in London now but lived in Sacto many years ago... Started college at American River before transfereing to Berkeley. Back then I worked at the Price Club on Madison and Manzinita before they moved it and became Costco. This was way back in the day when I was still driving VW bugs...
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I'm headed in for the 30K service soon and am anticipating the front brake pads will need to be replaced... I've done a dozen brake jobs, but never on a 911, but I am inclined to DIY this... I've read there are some issues with part numbers on the early 997s and will watch for that. It's a 4S with the red calipers and I am hoping someone can point me to an online guide... I did search for 30 minutes, but I figure someone must know exactly where to look :) Any and all suggestions are most welcome... Cheers, Oski
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Pcm Problems
oskibear replied to oskibear's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)
yeah Sam, we're talking about the same thing... my Navi DVD drive IS under the luggage compartment cover as described, I've had that off a few times now. The CD changer is NOT under that cover. Using the lower picture, my cd changer is mounted down inside the boot, sort of in front of the screw marked with the #1... Sorry to hear about your run in with the French police...