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My car is a 2004 CayenneS (US model). I bought the Durametric Software hoping that I can perform some basic engine diagnostic. Not so true! Watching some of the postings on youtube to what you can do with Durametric was so cool but when it comes to mine, it ain't so. I want to do some "output" test, for example, turning on/off the coolant fan, sec fans, blower, etc... the software for my model car will not support such test as I was told by Durametric Rep.! Bummer! Of course there are other ways to test all the components I mentioned above but that was not my point. Oh well, now I have a Durametric which just read/reset the fault code like a $35 generic code reader! Am I the unlucky one?
ManMN replied to 993GT2's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)Ok folks, P0349 - from all the sites I have researched all pointed to replacing the cam position sensor. I replaced it - no good! same error: P0349! Help! The car is 2004 Cayenne S (US)
ManMN replied to 993GT2's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)P0349 continues...... I got this after changing out the valve cover gasket on the driver side. What did I touch? what did I accidentally unplug? does anyone have any photo to where this sensor is? I Reset & drove couple of times - it keeps coming back. I have no loss of performance! It's a 04 Cayenne S (US model) Thanks
ManMN replied to angusc's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)My car is 2004 S. The batteries (2) were replaced in 2013 by Porsche dealer. I am now experiencing weird electronic problems . As I recalled it from the past, weak battery contributes to weird electronic problems, plus, the batteries are 5 years old, Its safe to planning replacing the battery(2)! And here's my thinking, can I replace and use only 1 battery with a higher capacity rating? or am I stuck with 2 batteries? can I swap front and back battery? I don't think my model year has any kind of battery registration feature like many later BMW cars does it? Any advice is greatly appreciated. Many thanks.
Got so busy last 10 days due to the end of FY - I'll replace the bad vacuum line in a week or so or when work is under control....The car is running OK with the code!
Spoke too soon. After a long commute, the CE came back as code P2189 - this is where it all began.... Well, I know now that the booster brake vacuum is somewhat fixed (need to order the OEM tube). I changed Gas cap, Oil cap and one of the device (solenoid?) shown on 1 of my photos. I swapped the MAP air sensor (Right/Left). I bought a vacuum tester - which pipe should I check for the vacuum leaks? or is not the vacuum? O2 sensors? new MAP sensors? $$$$$ will go out the window! The car drives fine - idle smooth...
There is no CE at this time. I'm using iCarsoft i960 OBDII scanner. There is a menu called "Diagnostic" (different from the usual Actron reader), there is a submenu called DTCs. I select to read DTCs codes and P0102 came up. I select to clear the code. Restart the engine, no more PSM light. Drove around the block for 10 minutes - everything feels/looks normal. Tomorrow, Monday, the commute will be 45 minute/30 miles. I'll give updates.
Lewisweller, Thanks to you, all codes are cleared. I have driven the car for 15 minutes - no codes. However, the PSM was on after my procedure of disconnect /reconnect the battery and it remains ON. The brakes feel fine and of course I was able to stop the car. I'm going to search for PSM troubleshoot... I'll be back. Thank you so much Lewisweller Man N
Yeah, I will eventually replacing the hose but right now, just trying to find out why it got worse than couple of days ago (without driving the car). I never hay any issue with the throttle actuator...how can I test without the Durametric?
I believe I have mended the cracked hose (the brake pedal feels very tight when pressed) . Now the car idle very rough I have codes 2103, 0638 and a bunch of 0300's. What are the common vacuum hoses and electrical plugs that I might left out during this process? See attached photos.
I just found a cracked hose - cannot identify it (attached pic). Looks like it is going through the firewall
Now my car won't start - did I just open a can of worms by trying to fix the P2189?
Oops, I spoke too soon. I just read some more codes P2103 & P0638. I could have swear that I reconnected any hoses or plugs that I took off!!!
I was troubleshooting code P2189, undo some vacuum line to test for leaks ... this is a different issue all together. I mentioned it because I unhooked vacuum lines. I reconnected everything (hoses), I did not start the engine because I was still working on it. My engine was running fine for weeks even with P2189 - not rough like some mentioned! Two days later, In the morning, I used the car to do errands, I drove for about 10 minutes. At the stop sign, I stepped on the brake, the car won't stop like it used to! It rolled slowly and then stopped. It's like taking a much much longer distant to stop. I did not see anything abnormal on the dashboard except for the CE for the P2189 code! no smell of anything. I continued to drive the car at the normal speed (35 mile/hr) but kept a large distance from the car in front. About 10 minutes later, the brake felt normal like nothing had happened. I drove for another 10 minutes to reach my destination. 2 hours later, jumped in the car to drive home, the brakes felt normal. About 2 minutes the PSM light came on, brakes are still OK. 5 minutes later I pulled into the bank, turned off the engine for couple minutes then restarted the engine, the PSM light is OFF, the brake is normal... I drove home. Now, where do I start troubleshoot the brakes and the PSM light? I don't have the Durametric tool. Or must I have the Durametric to troubleshoot? can I rent one from someone? Your help is needed. Thank you in advance for your assistance. Man N
Thanks for the tip Loren. I checked all ground connections, adding additional ground wire on each side of the tail light (just to make sure) and sanded the contact points at the license plate lights, well... that didn't solve the problem! Is there such thing as "light control module" that could be bad? My next try will be tab on a tail light's circuit to feed the license plate light externally, just for testing purpose. Will this do any harms? or may be I will get another warning indicate that the tail light is failing because it draws more current? ManN