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skymast

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Everything posted by skymast

  1. Update -- for those who come after me .... I have a 99 C4 (late build), CDR-220 w/ Amp. 1) It is plug and play BUT you do need to connect / splice the C6 and A5 wires to power the amp to get sound. 2) I may have had a bad CDR-220 BUT the TP sounds much better than my CDR-220. 3) The amber display (you can buy green and red) is a perfect color match 4) Looks wise, this is a total factory look (not a cheap aftermarket) 5) This is literally a 20 minute install ((but I didnt install the reverse wire) 6) While it does not have the typical big display screen, it is very easy to set / use. 7) Very Important for the directionally challeged. IT HAS A COMPASS DISPLAY!!!!!!! This was worth the $440 alone to me! Hope this helps!
  2. OK, I tried that. Success on sound .... until I pushed the radio back in. Now, I must have a grounding problem .... any insight??
  3. OK, found it C6 needs to be spliced with A5 ... I am Assuming the I can simply take a piece or wire and connect C6 w/ A5 (without blowing up the radio) or do I pull the pins .... Does anyone have more detailed information ... Thanks!
  4. Hi -- I have installed the TP in my 99 w/o DSP. All great EXCEPT no sound. Can anyone assist with the problem? Thanks ....
  5. Cleaned it (very fine rubbing compound), primer (only in the scratch, wipe away excess), then touch up paint (wipe away the excess so that it is ONLY in the scratch). This built it up to basically the same level as the factory paint. Before ( 0 out of 10) With Touch up (7.5 out of 10) from a foot away AND not noticeable from 5 feet Like I said, it does not look 'perfect' but on my black MB fender, it is barely noticeable but even with a total repaint of the fender, I would not have considered it a 10 / 10.
  6. The only good news is that black is very easy to match but make sure you go to an excellent body shop. Also, depending on how bad it was keyed, it may be possible to have it touched up / buffed out. I have a black 03 MB that was scratched (about twelve inches) by a pipe on the highway (looked exactly like it was keyed). Rather than repainting, I had it filled in and touched up. Not perfect but to me better than repainting. M
  7. I am just getting ready to to a few interior modifications and will be removing the instrument cluster. I don't want to risk plugging it back in and losing the mileage, etc. I am assuming that a day or so is no issue but does anyone know how long the power supply foir the brain will last when disconnected? TIA
  8. I have the BSF Exhaust (Basic, Standard, Factory Exhaust) and love it.
  9. i would definitely check the wheel / tires sizes ... those look nice but not factory std (at least not in the U.S.).
  10. thanks, sorry for posting in the wrong place. Does the C stand for Canada?
  11. Hi -- Can someone check the description on this part #? Thank you!
  12. is this a DIY install project or does it require professional installation?
  13. As a follow on to Arthur's question -- I read that there are two types of kits one that installs from above and one from below. Apparently the under kit can be removed more easily. Does anyone have any insight into the differences (why you would choose one over the other, cost, performance, durability, etc)? Thx
  14. Hi -- My key is stuck in the ignition. The car will start but with limited electronics. Anyone kno wthe problem and fix? als, if there is a DIY, please let me know. Thx
  15. OK, Success. Thank you all for the very valuable assistance. For those of you that do this after me: In addition to all the great information available on this project available via this forum ... several important points for those who are not known by their friends as 'ToolPants' and likely don't have a 'complete' set of tools. 1) the airbag bolts were impossible for me to remove with the T30 with the standard handle ... ToolPants's rachet idea was a requirement, not an option. 2) A Torx T30 bit the required length (about 2.5" long) was very difficult to find 3) An extension adaptor for a shorter TA30 Bit would not fit in the whole (of my 99' four spoke) to remove the screws 4) You need about 24mm to remove the steering wheel nut (my set only went up to 19mm (the new set I bought solved the problem). 5) like anything else, very easy with the right tools! As you can guess ... I made a few different trips to HD, Lowes, and Wal-Mart! Thanks.
  16. OK, all ready to go and .... I can not loosen the airbag screws. Any thoughts .... TIA
  17. I am getting ready to install a 3 spoke on my 99 C4. I have read many posts on removal and reinstallation of steering wheels so I will apologize (in advance) if I missed one related to my question ... I understand how / why to mark the location of the old wheel (for reinstallation) BUT what is the procedure for making sure the new wheel goes on straight / is alighned correctly? TIA, Mark
  18. I have Sport Rads (perfect condition) that I was interested in upgrading. I contacted Wheel Enhancements and they offered me $500 in trade (total). Probably low balling me on the initial call but I thought it was really low ... and almost offensive. The new Carreta Lights I was interested in were $2150 there. Of couse, you need to pay shipping to send the wheels in and shipping to get your new wheels (about (80 - 100 each way). As I remember, used 996 wheels seem to be selling on ebay for about $1100 - $1700 w/ remaining rubber. You are probably in the higher range but there is somewhat of a lack of marketability on the Sport Classics and the Sport Rads based how hard they are to clean (over the turbo look). Good luck
  19. $99 for an $800+ part IS a great deal! Make sure you get a respectable paint job.
  20. If you are going the DIY route, take a look at ebay and call a few porsche salvage lots. You may be able to pick up a factory bumper in your color. There is an AS bumber currently listed on eBay.
  21. You will be able to get what you are looking for at any auto upholstery shop. Take the measurements (not the car!) in and it should only be $20 or so.
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