britairdog

I know that it would be unfair to compare insulation and wind cutting ability as one is canvas and the other is steel top... how good is the triple lined improved canvas top against the elements?

What about durabilties? Can they go for a few years against sunlight and the elements without the need for replacements?

Definitely not gonna be as sturdy as the SLK's top but this is my only concern now. With the engine sitting behind me, it's gonna be loud but the top is really holding me back. I am afraid that after owning the SLK, this one will put me off after a week's driving... test drive ain't indicative

The 987 folding soft top is the best in the business. My car has both soft and hard top options. The hard-top is actually noisier than the soft top because, although the hard top reduces side window noise, it also reflects more engine noise into the cabin.Some people like that- I do! The soft top is very durable - my previous 986 boxster soft top was fine after 6 years, though it was garaged every day. The soft top should do well for at least 5 years under all conditions and should not cause any worry. You will never be sorry if you choose a soft-top boxster over an SLK. My reason for opting for a hard top ( which is lightweight aluminium, NOT steel) was to extend the life of the soft-top and for enhanced security for city parking. Also, the cabin has a more open feel and visibility is better. It has been mistaken for a Cayman!

Out of curiosity, what does the hard top do for ride noise?  I'm assuming it would be slightly more insulated than the soft top.

Any comments on ease of installation/removal?

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I collected my 987S in June with the hardtop factory fitted. I removed the top after a few days, as the English summer had arrived. It is very easy to do: remove the cover plate where the soft-top latch release is hidden, release the latch and turn two levers behind the offside of each passenger seat. Find a buddy to help you and then slide the top rearwards about 12", disconnect the window heater loom behind the passenger seat, then lift the top away. It takes less than 2 minutes.

Refitting is the exact reverse of the above, except that you need to be careful about getting the alignment right before sliding the top forward into the top rail lugs. Put something across the rear panel ( behind the rear windscreen) to allow you to rest the weight and make adjustments without scratches or damage. Even so, refitting takes less than 10 minutes.

In comparison to the soft-top, the hard-top definitely cuts down upon the wind noise and the cabin has a feeling of more light and space, mainly due to the very big rear window and parcel shelf area. The soft-top has a noticeable amount of wind-noise ( on my car, at least) along the side windows, plus a whistle from the side mirror mounts. I think that the gap between the two arms supporting the door mirror are ducting air onto the rear door window frame (as well as producing the whistling noise).This is not apparent with the hard-top fitted.

I think the hard-top looks great, although removal and fitting is definitely not something you can do single handed. Who needs a Cayman??

(edit - incomplete images removed - Loren)

Out of curiosity, what does the hard top do for ride noise?  I'm assuming it would be slightly more insulated than the soft top.

Any comments on ease of installation/removal?

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I collected my 987S in June with the hardtop factory fitted. I removed the top after a few days, as the English summer had arrived. It is very easy to do: remove the cover plate where the soft-top latch release is hidden, release the latch and turn two levers behind the offside of each passenger seat. Find a buddy to help you and then slide the top rearwards about 12", disconnect the window heater loom behind the passenger seat, then lift the top away. It takes less than 2 minutes.

Refitting is the exact reverse of the above, except that you need to be careful about getting the alignment right before sliding the top forward into the top rail lugs. Put something across the rear panel ( behind the rear windscreen) to allow you to rest the weight and make adjustments without scratches or damage. Even so, refitting takes less than 10 minutes.

In comparison to the soft-top, the hard-top definitely cuts down upon the wind noise and the cabin has a feeling of more light and space, mainly due to the very big rear window and parcel shelf area. The soft-top has a noticeable amount of wind-noise ( on my car, at least) along the side windows, plus a whistle from the side mirror mounts. I think that the gap between the two arms supporting the door mirror are ducting air onto the rear door window frame (as well as producing the whistling noise).This is not apparent with the hard-top fitted.

I think the hard-top looks great, although removal and fitting is definitely not something you can do single handed. Who needs a Cayman??

Out of curiosity, what does the hard top do for ride noise?  I'm assuming it would be slightly more insulated than the soft top.

Any comments on ease of installation/removal?

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I collected my 987S in June with the hardtop factory fitted. I removed the top after a few days, as the English summer had arrived. It is very easy to do: remove the cover plate where the soft-top latch release is hidden, release the latch and turn two levers behind the offside of each passenger seat. Find a buddy to help you and then slide the top rearwards about 12", disconnect the window heater loom behind the passenger seat, then lift the top away. It takes less than 2 minutes.

Refitting is the exact reverse of the above, except that you need to be careful about getting the alignment right before sliding the top forward into the top rail lugs. Put something across the rear panel ( behind the rear windscreen) to allow you to rest the weight and make adjustments without scratches or damage. Even so, refitting takes less than 10 minutes.

In comparison to the soft-top, the hard-top definitely cuts down upon the wind noise and the cabin has a feeling of more light and space, mainly due to the very big rear window and parcel shelf area. The soft-top has a noticeable amount of wind-noise ( on my car, at least) along the side windows, plus a whistle from the side mirror mounts. I think that the gap between the two arms supporting the door mirror are ducting air onto the rear door window frame (as well as producing the whistling noise).This is not apparent with the hard-top fitted.

I think the hard-top looks great, although removal and fitting is definitely not something you can do single handed. Who needs a Cayman??

Ok, that was just my opinion. If you really want to disable the seatbelt chime, you will probably find a dual wire feed to the female part of the seatbelt connection. These wires are 'open circuit' without the seatbelt fastened. If you cut both wires and connect them together, the car will always sense that your seatbelt is fastened. This has worked on other cars, it may answer fix your problem

Well, britairdog, thanks for your opinions ... too bad you don't have an answer to the original post which was a technical question !

When I want someone to lecture me on the use of seatbelts, I'll ask for it ... as for being crazy ... I'll assume you are not a qualified Doctor and remind you that I did not ask you for a diagnosis.

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Well, britairdog, thanks for your opinions ... too bad you don't have an answer to the original post which was a technical question !

When I want someone to lecture me on the use of seatbelts, I'll ask for it ... as for being crazy ... I'll assume you are not a qualified Doctor and remind you that I did not ask you for a diagnosis.

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Why don't you just do the right thing and fasten the seatbelt? Even if you are sitting in your stationary car it may save you, if you are rammed by another vehicle , since the airbags may not activate. If you are driving, airbags will not keep you from being thrown out of the car or into the passenger side if you have an accident.

If you are driving your Porsche around without a seatbelt on you must be crazy.

The gong does stop after a few chimes (at least, that's the case in the '02 C4 cab), I think the same sounder is used for headlight-on warning so you'd have t6o give that up too.

The visual indication can be cancelled by push the OBC stalk forward - doesn't stop the gong though

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Maybe does on an '02 C4 .... but, we're talking 987 S here ... the annoying gong stops momentarily but, then starts in again ...... sure wish someone had a fix !!!

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Your salesman was WRONG! There is a break in period for the Boxster. Porsche recommend staying off full throttle and high rpm for 3000km/1850miles. You should be able to find this information in the owner's manual - you did read it, didn't you? My dealer (UK) suggested a max of 5000rpm during the break-in period which still allowed me very satisfactory performance. I now have 2000 miles on the clock so I can enjoy the car to the full.

You may regret not having optioned the PCM option if you ever get to try it. The radio, mobile phone and CD operation is brilliant and the sat-nav incredibly clear and accurate.

You are right, it's a great car, better in every respect than the 986 model, except.........it's not quite such a good looking car, in my opinion.

Have fun, but take it easy for a while!

I picked up my new 05 987 on Wednesday from a Porsche dealer in Western Massachusetts (great experience if anyone from around here is in the market, PM me). Traded in 2004 Audi A4 Cabriolet. I have had a couple of days to get used to the Boxster and this is a quick rundown of my initial impressions.

2005 Boxster, Carmon Red, Black Top, Sand Beige interior. Bose with wind stop, Power seats, auto climate, 18in rims, floor mats.

First, appearance: I got the Carmon Red Metallic, which seems to be a rare color around here. All I can say is WOW! The color is absolutely stunning and if you haven't seen it in person, pictures do it no justice. Its a burgundy-like color. Looks good with the black top. Might look ok with the tan top, but I think it would give it more of a feminine look (sorry). 18in rims look great, and I think are a must. I really didn't care for the look of the 17s, and I think the 19 might be overkill. This particular model didn't come with the painted center caps, so I am browsing eBay for a nice set. Any ideas where I could find a set for a good price?

Interior is a the light tan color, and also looks great. I am, however, worried about wear and dirt. I will have to be extra careful to make sure my hands are super clean on the wheel and shoes are clean on the rugs, same for the seats. The Bose system was a bonus on the car that I got, wasn't a must for me. I am impressed with the sound of the system so far, but not all of the logistics (more later). The autoclimate is a waste in my opinion, again it was on this car on the lot. I would use the 500 bucks for some of the little options like painted wheel centers, etc.

Performance: The engine sounds great and pulls very well. I feel like I am beating on the car all the time though, as I cannot help winding the revs up everytime I drive. The salesman told me that there is no break-in period necessary, but I have been TRYING (somewhat unsuccessfully) to go easy on it. I haven't redlined it and have only given it full throttle briefly. Handles the corners unbelieveably well. 

A couple of niggles: What is up with the radio buttons. I have to use my pinky to press them without pressing more than one and I don't have particularly fat fingers. I HATE the fact that Satellite Radio is unavailable. I have become addicted. Reception seems to suck. Also, no in dash CD changer. 

I don't like how the engine fan turns on so often in the righthand intake/vent. It seems extremely loud and takes away from the sweet song of the flat 6.

Is it me or is it impossible to close either trunk without getting fingerprints all over your freshly washed paint?

Although I actually like this "Porsche attribute," how long is it going to take me to get used to having the key on the left side of the steering column?  :)

All in all, let me say that I love this car. Man oh man all I want to do is drive now. I haven't driven it yet with the top up! Thanks for reading.....

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I'm surprised think the control unit is faulty straight away, as the re-lock option is configurable with the PST2 for on/off, how many seconds to re-lock etc.

Having looked at the wiring diagram, the interior lights are powered in the following way:

The positive comes from Bus Bar 7, 'Consumer Switched Off' which stays live for about 10 if alarm off, engine off. If car locked and alarm active, BB7 is switched off. Individual components have the negative (earth) side switched to control the individual device. Other things supplied from BB7 are:

Luggage compartment light Front

Luggage compartment light Rear

Make-Up mirror Left

Make-Up mirror Right

Seat Memory.

Are any of these working?

BB7 is switched from the alarm control unit. Has the plug been disturbed? Look at pin II/4 and II/8 on the alarm CU. OK?

Finally, fuse C3 (15A) is worth a check.

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Thank you for the advice on this problem. I checked out all suggested fixes, but nothing cured the fault. It turned out that Porsche tech department were right - the only answer was to replace the alarm module ( under the passenger seat) . This took 2 hours and £400 (£700 USD) from my bank account, just to get the interior lights working!! My current car is now sold to a new owner on 20 June, my new 987 Boxster S arrives next day........

My car is a UK spec 2.5 Boxster MY1999. After a major accident repair, the internal ( overhead) light does not work at all, either in auto or manual mode. I have checked the bulb is ok!! The footwell lights fitted in the lower door panel are also inoperative. As a possible indicator of the problem, the central locking system does not re-arm if the car is not entered within 30 seconds of disarming the system, otherwise it is ok.

Porsche think that the alarm and control unit under the passenger seat is faulty and that the cost to fix is $800USD (500 Sterling pounds) I think that it could be a simple wiring fault due to the repair.

Any ideas out there? Can anyone supply a suitable wiring diagram?