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Posts posted by DBJoe996

  1. 1 hour ago, Stringy said:

    I too had a very difficult time in getting my alternator out.

    I must have hit it hundreds of times but the steel insert didn't seem to move - I even resorted to drastic action, see pic.


    I didn't read the message above that said it only has to be moved so it can be rotated up and out.

    Anyway, eventually I found I could pry the alternator up free of the bushing.

    At one point when I was prying, I pushed the alternator up and causes a short hiss - sounded like air?

    No water dripping, so time will tell if I've damaged anything.

    Once out, I tested the windings and diodes and concluded the regulator - which is was. $18 from the bay.

    p.s. I also checked for poor connection of the battery leads - I used a PAT tester (Portable appliance tester), which has a 25A earth continuity function (at low test voltage), this showed a fraction of an ohm on all battery + and ground connections.

    Hope this helps.


    Better check the AOS coolant hose just to the right of the oil filler tube.  That plastic hose connector always breaks. With the engine off not much coolant will  leak.  With the engine running it will look like a geyser spraying coolant everywhere.

  2. No, the engine wiring harness is a whole unit that connects to the X51 connectors in the engine bay.  It would be extremely difficult to replace just the cylinder 3 wires in the wiring harness.  Maybe you can find where the wire got pinched, and repair just that wire.  Agree, it's going to be difficult in that location but it has to be done.  What if you were to lower the engine to the frame and see if you can reach it?  You had to do that to replace the AOS.

  3. Yes, that is the correct Workshop Manual section.  Maybe someone with experience will weigh in on the pressure testing tool.  I don't believe there is anything unique about the pressure testing port (schrader valve on the fuel rail), maybe a local auto supply stores might have one that will work. What you want to see is if the fuel  rail stays pressurized with engine off, or if it bleeds down, meaning the fuel injector for #3 is stuck open as JFP pointed out.


  4. Sure would get old fast.  I'm in Florida and cannot live without AC.  What is the dreaded "black box"?  From what you described it seems all the AC system components are okay, thus recommending having an AC specialist give it an all out refresh of the refrigerant.  Sounds like you might be low.  Most of the time the "recharge" cans from the auto 

    store just don't work to push more refrigerant in the system.

  5. What year and make is your car? There is a guy over on Rennlist selling a bunch of parts from a 2003 C2.  He might have an immobilizer.


    996 Forum - F/S 03 c2 996 parts - Parts came off a 2003 c2 manual transmission 85k miles ECU $200 Cluster $200 Both drive axles $200 Both Radiators , Condensers With fans $375 complete wire harness $500 Abs...


  6. In 2000, Porsche C4 production (for coupe) was 3,862

    Source -


    Porsche 911 996 productioni numbers for all versions by year. Model No. built 1997 Carrera Coupé:14 1998 Carrera Coupé : 8296 1998 Carrera Cabriolet : 952

    Your engine number is M96/04  66Y 14721

    One thing that would be helpful is a picture of the door frame sticker that shows the actual date of production.  For instance, my car was sold as a 1999 C2 coupe, but was made 7/98. Maybe you can get that during the PPI


  7. 5 hours ago, Don Smethers said:

    Thank you for your replies. Agreed, on this specifiec car, if there are no records of an engine replacement or an IMS upgrade, then the safe assumption for a 2000 is that the small single row bearing is in the engine. Of course, since the factory didn't know of the failure rate until later, there may not be an engine-by-engine record kept or being accessible at this time. Does this sound right? So, I'm still shopping for my next Porsche.

    Look for a 98/99 996 from Southern California. Dual row IMSB, stout and robust, no rust.  And like JFP said, give us an engine number and we will dissect it to the nth degree 🙂  I have a 99 manufactured in 7/98 with 145K + miles.  I do regular oil/filter changes twice a year and I do not worry about my IMSB at all.  I got an LN spin on oil filter adapter and magnetic plug.  Never anything on those to give me problems or reason for concern.

  8. As said, for a 2000 it probably is a dual row IMSB.  But if the engine serial number has an AT in it, then the original motor has been replaced and you cannot know what type of IMSB is in it.  Only physical inspection will reveal what is there.  The good news is if the IMSB is dual row or single row, then it can be replaced with the LN Engineering IMSB Solution and you are done with the issue forever.  However, if it is a AT replacement engine with the larger IMSB (later replacement engine years) that can only be replaced by disassembling the engine and splitting the engine casings. But, also, the larger IMSB is not problematic with proper oil changes and change intervals.

  9. ECU Doctors can help if the immobilizer needs waking up.  For in the future, they have a waterproof box for the immobilizer.  Since the immobilizer sits in a well under the seat, it is most prone to getting wet.  If the seat is not responding to fore and aft movements to loosen the floor bolts, let me know.  There is another  way to get under the drivers seat. 


    Porsche, BMW, Ferrari - We'll make any used ECU work - Send us your damaged ECU and we'll TEST and REPAIR your unit and send it back to you with our 5 YEAR WARRANTY.


  10. If the carpet behind the drivers seat is wet, then surely the carpet UNDER the drivers seat is wet, and that is where the immobilizer/alarm system is.  If you can, remove the drivers seat (loosen floor bolts and tip it backwards) and get the immoblizer unit out.  Dry it and place it in a canister of dry rice for several days.  Remove the carpeting and  get it dry.  If you can, put a dehumdifier in the car and get it completely dry inside.  Shop vac out moisture from the carpeting.

  11. This is NOT a part to go cheap on.  Only get a real OE Porsche window regulator.  I have heard and read many stories about cheap window regulators breaking after less than a year, cables snapping, grinding and so on.  No, you cannot finagle a way to tension the cables.  It's a Porsche, pony up the cost of the OE Porsche window regulator and be done with this job.  I do believe there is a company in Texas that you can send  it to for a rebuild with much higher quality parts.  I'll see if I can find that info.  But you will have to wait out the shipping and rebuilding time.

  12. 26 minutes ago, Philip54 said:

    The door key turns freely without locking/unlocking.  I am trying to get the door latch mechanism out, but I could not separate the handle/handle case assembly from the latch mechanism.

    There is a threaded "key" that goes from the door lock to the door latch mechanism.  I've detailed some of the work here 


    996 Forum - DIY: 996 Door Latch Replacement [Detailed] - If your window does not stay lowered when your door is open, chances are that a switch within the door latch has gone out. This is a detailed procedure to change...


  13. OE Porsche Manual Transmission oil 75W-90

    I have read that other people have tried different brands of 75W-90 and then develop strange shifting and noises.  Then they take the car to a Porsche specialist to diagnose the problems.  The first thing they do is drain and refill with the Porsche manual transmission oil and the problems go away.  You can get some at a Porsche dealer or many of the online Porsche suppliers.

  14. My 99 C2 3.4L engine is bone stock.  I do my own oil changes.   I pull the drain plug and let it drain overnight, then slightly jack  up the left rear of the car so the remaining oil that pools in the sump drains out.  Put in drain plug.  Fill oil filter with oil and install.  Then I put in 10.25 quarts of oil, Liqui-Moly 5W-40 Leichtlauf High Tech.  Comes in a 5.28 U.S. Quart size (5 L) bottle.  I've done this so many times over the years.  I always end up right on the full mark before starting the engine.  I don't burn off much oil between oil changes. My owners manual says the capacity w/filter is 8.7QT/8.25 L.  I find I need more to be at the high mark on the dipstick.  The manual also says that the difference between the high and low mark on the dipstick is 1.6 QTS/1.5L.


    I  always keep mine near the high mark.  More oil, more oil and  cooling capacity.  I do not track or run the car hard so I'm not sloshing the oil around.  145K miles, 6 month oil changes, so I must be doing something right.

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