DBJoe996

Please come back and let us know how it worked out.  Sorry for your pain and agony on this one.  Replacing the AOS  is a major PITA job even if everything goes right.  It is an extremely difficult job.  I still question that AOS but time will tell whether it is right or not.  If it does leak or show signs of a massive vacuum leak, then you will know.  I took a flashlight and tried to see if I could get a picture of my replacement AOS from underneath to see how my seal seated  but no go on that one.  Best of luck and hope it works out.

Never seen anything like that in the engine  bay.  Could just be a piece of road debris that got kicked up by the rear tire.  Porsche stamps a part number on most if not all parts, even rubber drain plugs.

Hate to say it but it is probably your drivers side door latch mechanism.  There are internal microswitches that create the exact symptoms that you have.   I recently had to replace my drivers side door latch mechanism because it was getting to the point the door would not unlock with the key.  But I figured it was now 21 years old, so I replaced with a new OE Porsche door latch mechanism.  Now works perfectly.

That being said, there is another microswitch on the door handle that controls the window drop when opening the door with the outside handle.  Also well known to go bad and fairly easy to replace once the door card is off.  I think I would start there.

My guess would be it is for the center console lid.  It is monitored by the alarm system. Open and it makes the alarm system beep when locking.  Are you getting a beep when locking the car?

There is a microswitch for the emergency brake lever.  If the brake lever is pulled up, it lights up on the gauge cluster.  If the brake lever is down, it does not light up the on gauge cluster.  Just a simple warning light the emergency brake is applied or not.

What I think is something is keeping the cluster "awake".  I know you said there are no beeps when you lock the car.  Have you done any recent work on the door latch or window regulator?  Either side? I am thinking that maybe one of the door handle microswitches is faulty and the car does not know the door is closed thus causing the gauge cluster to stay on.  Do your windows work properly, dropping when you open the door?  Are you locking the car with the remote or with the key in door?  Perhaps another thing to try is leave the center console up (unlatched) and lock the car to see if your alarm horn actually works.  Upon locking you should get a beep indicating that a zone is open.

Exactly which ones stay on constantly?  Just the mileage?  Normally, like mine, get in car, insert key in ignition, turn key to position one (not start) and cluster lights up showing mileage, digital speed, outside air temp and oil level count down.  Does yours do that?  If you are actually getting that much battery drain I would find the fuse for the gauge cluster and pull it until the next time you drive the car and until you get this sorted.  I'm trying to figure out the logic of this but need more information.

So the reverse lights stay on, sometimes even while in drive.  It looks to me like it is a simple on/off switch controlled by the movement of the shift lever against the roller and microswitch.  How do you know it is not the microswitch that is bad?  You could pull the wire connectors and test the switch for on/off easily with an ohm meter, or test for on/off voltage with a volt meter.  Simple enough test to see if maybe the switch is faulty.

This is why I'm wondering...see the seal on a new OE AOS?  It is not like yours, at least from what I can make out.

Very difficult to make this out.  Even with the face of the AOS on the block, it still looks like a few millimeters off from the pipe being in the hole.  Stumped me.  Cram a shop light back there and get some better light on the subject.

Is that an OE Porsche AOS?  I remember seeing a picture of the old style AOS with the small seal on it, but the new OE AOS has a different  seal.  I'll see if I can find a pic.

JFP is right, lube it up.  You can also use a smear of clean synthetic engine oil.  It must go in and seat.

You have either a short in the wiring or a bad microswitch on the door handle, or just a bad connection to the microswitch. Clean up all connections with electrical contact cleaner. 

You have removed the nuts from the motor mounts so you can drop the engine (with support) down to the cross-member...right?  You have got to remove or disconnect most of the hoses and lines on that side of the engine in order to get the intake out.  Even the AOS coolant hose.  This is an extremely complex, intrusive and tedious job.   I pulled my entire rear bumper and heat shields on both sides so I would not damage them lowering the engine down to the crossmember.  The mufflers on either side would have bowed out the heat shields and bumper and probably, if not done, would have resulted in permanent damage.  In a word, take out everything on that side. Having the secondary air system out helps.  Having the alternator out helps.

All I remember is that I removed the bolts from the left intake manifold and then moved it over to get the rear plenum out.  Actually, did not have to totally remove the rear plenum, just moved the intake manifold over and removed.  Just remember the rear plenum has a vacuum line attached that is a real pain to reach.  Good luck!

This might help a little bit -

And pull the panels on both sides of the battery.  Check the heater core hoses for any signs of a leak, because coolant could pool in the drainage areas under the panels and the smell could enter through the cabin filter intake.  Good time to check your drains under there as well.

Aside from a cracked head (which you do not want), there are really only two other places where coolant and oil can mix.  One is the air oil separator ( AOS) and the other is the heat exchanger on Bank 2.  It is generally that oil gets into the coolant since it is at a much higher pressure.  Have you checked your coolant tank for oil?  Use a turkey baster and remove some of the coolant and put it in a glass jar.  Oil and water will separate and you can see it. The old coolant was green and the new coolant is pink.  What does it look like in your coolant tank? Never a good idea to just let the car sit and idle.  Start and drive.  Plan a drive of 20-30 minutes at operating temperature (180+) and then check the oil filler cap.  You can also drop just your oil filter and put that oil in a glass jar and see if it separates.  In my opinion, it is not unusual to have to add a quart of oil after 2500 miles.

Hate to say it but that yellow sludge in the oil filler tube and cap is a classic sign of not running the engine long enough and hot enough to burn that stuff off.  If you had the coolant system pressurized and leak tested, what makes you think you have a coolant leak? Surely something would have happened if the leak test failed.  And one quart low on oil?  When was the last oil change and how many miles on  the oil change?  It is not unusual to have to add a quart of oil every once in a while depending on mileage.  As said, if you are smelling coolant in the cabin (but again, you had a pressure test done on the coolant system so ????) it could be your heater core.  Are you losing any coolant?

Bentley Manual by far....

Translated: 

Hello my front wiper does not work. The engine is new and the Lenstock switch too.

I don't find the relay. Does anyone have a schematic?

check your fuses first

ohhh uhhhh...that looks expensive!  Since they are just suspension components, you should not have to remove the engine/transmission.  It is amazing that broke.  Big pothole?  About $2 grand for a new piece 

Might call them first to see if this will work.  They are a reliable source.

PCM 2.0 Map Update

WWW.SUNCOASTPARTS.COM

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Map Update for PCM 2.0 units Latest maps available from Porsche. Currently dated to 2015. The latest update for the 2003-2004 PCM 2.0 Navigation system. Now includes 2015 navigation maps. This is the most current map...

All I can tell you is the old original Porsche coolant was green, and the new Porsche coolant is pink.  However, that being said, they (the Porsche coolants) are compatible with each other so there is no need to panic and drain the entire system.  You can drive the car, it will be okay.  You are putting Porsche coolant in your car and that is good.  Maybe, depending on your mileage, you will have to replace your water pump soon so then you can change it out to the new Porsche pink coolant.

Where are you coming up with those part numbers?