DBJoe996

You need a new horn frame with new rubber bushings. Not too expensive. Do a search or here:

I've replaced mine once. They become brittle from age and heat. 99 C2 @149K miles (now)

For future reference, once you get the frunk open (however you do it), do yourself a favor and relocate the emergency release cable to just inside the tow hook plug on the front bumper. This can save hours and hours of frustration...pop the tow hook plug and there is the cable.

The upper part of the hose goes to the AOS. The bottom part of the hose comes from the water pump. Make sure you have the bottom hose pointed down, that is where the coolant will spray out first. It will really only take a second.

You can but it will spray coolant everywhere. Point that hose downwards and put a pan under the car. It will only take a second. Watch your fingers.

Could be your Secondary Air Injection pump whining, particularly just after first start of the car. Mine runs several times after a cold start.  The SAI in normal running mode sounds like a muffled vacuum cleaner in the engine bay.

I bought SS studs of the appropriate length, used two nuts on the studs to move the heat shields out, and then used a nut and washer to secure the heat shields. Makes it so much easier to remove and install the heat shields. If I remember correctly, my goal was to achieve 6-7mm of spacing.

IMS or crankshaft thrust bearing? Just guessing...

Definitely get the LN Spin On Oil Filter adapter and magnetic drain plug. Makes a DIY oil change a breeze.

Huh? What is a "deflection roller"? One of the serpentine belt rollers? I'm not understanding....

The switch is mounted horizontally, and yes, you must twist it to unlock it from the mount. It's a tricky job but it can be done (since I have done it). Make sure you buy a OE Porsche replacement switch correct for your VIN, and also, there are two switches on the brake pedal, one for the brake lights and one for the cruise control. I believe the black switch is for the brake lights and the reddish one is for the cruise control. If you can't picture it in your mind, stick your cell phone under the dash and take a few pictures. Helps with orientation.

I see no one has posted a response.  So, in this case, I would kindly suggest booking an appointment at your nearest local Porsche dealer.  They will have the highly specialized equipment, knowledge and expertise to deal with the AC service on your Porsche.  This is not a DIY or backyard mechanic type of thing.  Most people won't have the knowledge or answer to your questions because this is not  in the normal realm of DIY.

A rather simple and basic question - did you check your oil level? Oh, and, how long has it been since an oil/filter change?

The threaded rod that extends from the door lock mechanism and door latch assembly snaps into the black plastic connector on the door latch side.  There is a small collar that you need to slide back on the black plastic piece, then the threaded rod unsnaps from the connector piece.

Thanks Loren!

I'm trying to get my radio code. CD-220, Serial- X5026437, Type 4462. Can anyone help?

Getting for buddy on Rennlist.  Thanks.

Your 20 year old key fob has stopped working.  Welcome to the club.  Your circuit board in the key has broken and now doesn't work to lock/unlock the car.  Mine has been that way for 15 years.  I just use the blade to lock/unlock.  Options?  Go to dealership, order new keys from Stuttgart (only place in the world to get replacement keys), put wallet on counter and empty it of all remaining credit cards (read this as replacement keys are very expensive - $450 plus each plus ensuring programming  correctly to your car - Porsche dealer only).

That plastic connector piece is crap.  Get the upgraded metal one and be done with that problem forever.

what I contemplated doing was lifting up the bottom seat to expose the motors, then by splicing in some 12V and ground to make the motors move.  But I never did it.  I would contemplate doing it if the seat was way out of position.  The seat control and memory module is #12.  For that price not about to go through the contortions of getting the whole seat out.

See diagram w/motors here 

I have run into the same problem.  The drivers side seat refuses to move in any direction.  I pulled the switch and it appears to be okay.  I pulled the white tabs under the bottom of the seat to release it from the frame.  This allows access to the under seat wiring.  I checked everything.  I believe it comes down to the memory seat unit under the seat.  I have power to it, but nothing works.  I think it fried itself.  Fortunately, the seat is in the correct position for me, so I gave up on it. Hasn't worked in about 2 years.  It is just dead. And bonus, you need to be able to run the seat forwards and backwards to get to the seat bolts in order to lift up the seat and get to the memory module.  Not happening.

In case someone searches for vacuum line routing in the future

The simple  answer is yes, Durametric will tell you the status of the smog monitors.  Sometimes it works better to disconnect the negative battery lead, wait 20 minutes, re-connect then do the 30-60 minutes of drive time to re-establish all the ECU/DME monitors.  There are some detailed threads on what other people did regarding the drive time and getting all the smog monitors good to go.

I have never heard of a feature where the car self locks.  Of course you already know that after 5 days the immobilizer stops listening for the key fob to conserve battery power. Then you have to unlock the car with the key if it is locked.   I leave my car unlocked for days and weeks and it never self locks.  Something is up with this and I don't know what.

Actually there is a atmospheric breather port on part #6 above, which looks to be it in your picture.  It could be as simple as replacing that part and with a new O-ring.  It could be the spring inside is old and worn out. 99610704751 Double check this part number for your Targa.

Fuse E6 - check

Fuel vent valve - replace

Reed Magnetic Switch - replace