DBJoe996

I see no one has posted a response.  So, in this case, I would kindly suggest booking an appointment at your nearest local Porsche dealer.  They will have the highly specialized equipment, knowledge and expertise to deal with the AC service on your Porsche.  This is not a DIY or backyard mechanic type of thing.  Most people won't have the knowledge or answer to your questions because this is not  in the normal realm of DIY.

A rather simple and basic question - did you check your oil level? Oh, and, how long has it been since an oil/filter change?

The threaded rod that extends from the door lock mechanism and door latch assembly snaps into the black plastic connector on the door latch side.  There is a small collar that you need to slide back on the black plastic piece, then the threaded rod unsnaps from the connector piece.

Thanks Loren!

I'm trying to get my radio code. CD-220, Serial- X5026437, Type 4462. Can anyone help?

Getting for buddy on Rennlist.  Thanks.

Your 20 year old key fob has stopped working.  Welcome to the club.  Your circuit board in the key has broken and now doesn't work to lock/unlock the car.  Mine has been that way for 15 years.  I just use the blade to lock/unlock.  Options?  Go to dealership, order new keys from Stuttgart (only place in the world to get replacement keys), put wallet on counter and empty it of all remaining credit cards (read this as replacement keys are very expensive - $450 plus each plus ensuring programming  correctly to your car - Porsche dealer only).

That plastic connector piece is crap.  Get the upgraded metal one and be done with that problem forever.

what I contemplated doing was lifting up the bottom seat to expose the motors, then by splicing in some 12V and ground to make the motors move.  But I never did it.  I would contemplate doing it if the seat was way out of position.  The seat control and memory module is #12.  For that price not about to go through the contortions of getting the whole seat out.

See diagram w/motors here 

I have run into the same problem.  The drivers side seat refuses to move in any direction.  I pulled the switch and it appears to be okay.  I pulled the white tabs under the bottom of the seat to release it from the frame.  This allows access to the under seat wiring.  I checked everything.  I believe it comes down to the memory seat unit under the seat.  I have power to it, but nothing works.  I think it fried itself.  Fortunately, the seat is in the correct position for me, so I gave up on it. Hasn't worked in about 2 years.  It is just dead. And bonus, you need to be able to run the seat forwards and backwards to get to the seat bolts in order to lift up the seat and get to the memory module.  Not happening.

In case someone searches for vacuum line routing in the future

The simple  answer is yes, Durametric will tell you the status of the smog monitors.  Sometimes it works better to disconnect the negative battery lead, wait 20 minutes, re-connect then do the 30-60 minutes of drive time to re-establish all the ECU/DME monitors.  There are some detailed threads on what other people did regarding the drive time and getting all the smog monitors good to go.

I have never heard of a feature where the car self locks.  Of course you already know that after 5 days the immobilizer stops listening for the key fob to conserve battery power. Then you have to unlock the car with the key if it is locked.   I leave my car unlocked for days and weeks and it never self locks.  Something is up with this and I don't know what.

Actually there is a atmospheric breather port on part #6 above, which looks to be it in your picture.  It could be as simple as replacing that part and with a new O-ring.  It could be the spring inside is old and worn out. 99610704751 Double check this part number for your Targa.

Fuse E6 - check

Fuel vent valve - replace

Reed Magnetic Switch - replace

You are correct on the P/N 996-107-225-53.  If the box is shorter then the filter is shorter, and you definitely don't want that.  Is there a part number on the filter (not the box)?

There is so much wrong with this approach I don't know  where to begin.  Agreed, a trip to the dealer MAY sort this out, but I would hold onto your wallet.  The key, immobilzer and DME/ECU must all be programmed with the same codes only Porsche Stuttgart can provide, to a licensed Porsche dealer with PIWIs.  What you have done is replace parts with other parts and expect them to work.  It doesn't work like that.  Key provides both the mechanical laser cut key blade that works the electro-mechanical parts of the door locks and key switch, BUT, also includes an passive RFID pill that must match the key code programmed into  the immobilzer.  The key RFID pill is read when the key is inserted into the ignition switch by the ignition switch surround. The pill must match the immobilzer key  codes.  If it is correct, the  immobilzer communicates a go (or no go) to the DME/ECU.  All must be programmed the same. The codes in each must all match or the car will not start.

You are looking at least at several hundreds of dollars at a Porsche dealer for programming.  If the keys, immobilzer and DME/ECU need to be replaced, several thousands of dollars...at a Porsche dealer.  And bonus, the immobilzer can only be reprogrammed a limited number of times, then it must be replaced. Walk very carefully on this one. Remember, this is a security feature  of our cars so they cannot be stolen, and only the Porsche factory in Stuttgart will provide the codes to a licensed Porsche dealer.  Good luck.

Maybe contact these guys

1996-2018 Porsche 911 (996) Instrument Cluster Repair Service > Electronic Auto Part Repair Services for Instrument Clusters, Speedometers, Navigation Systems and similar modules. Download our catalogs

VDOREPAIR.COM

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<b>Models Covered: </b><br/>Porsche 911 ,996,<br/><br/>

I take it that trying to start it, it cranks but does not fire? Is that correct?  Or does it not crank?  Cranks but no fire is caused by the CPS - crank position sensor.  Does the tach needle bounce when you try to start it?

If no crank - ignition switch, bad starter, corroded Y-cable, clean all engine grounds

Huh.  My thoughts in this order...turn signal in the steering column, contacts need cleaning, the light switch, replace the electrical part of the light switch, and the electrical part of the ignition switch which is known to cause all kinds of gremlins.  You may even try pulling the headlight and use a multimeter to test the pins while turning on headlights and turn signals.  Electrical problems are tough to solve.

Did you check both the front and REAR left turn signal bulb?  Could be one or both.

Just a guess...but how about checking and cleaning the ground point for the headlights/turn signals?  Not sure where it is but there must be a common ground point somewhere in the frunk area, maybe under one of the covers next to the battery or near the brake master cylinder.

Look up at the top of this page.  Click on Documents.  There is a VIN lookup and Option Code decoder.

Good thread on all the option codes 

Although your question has been answered, if you are going to DIY then this is what you need 

“996 Torque Book” – Fastening Specifications for Porsche 911 (Type 996) Automobile | The Knowledge Gruppe

WWW.THEKNOWLEDGEGRUPPE.COM

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Fastener size, grade, assembly position and tightening torque. Lacking this publication, most technicians find themselves looking through pages of workshop manuals to search for fastener torque va…

42 minutes ago, JFP in PA said:

I would also be looking at the ignition switch electrical section, a known weak point that causes all sorts of electrical issues when it goes bad.

This!

You replaced your MAF sensor....with what brand and type?  It must be OEM or a Bosch unit.