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DBJoe996 last won the day on April 12

DBJoe996 had the most liked content!

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About DBJoe996

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    Contributing Member
  • Birthday 11/23/1956

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  • From
    Daytona Beach, FL
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1999 996 Carrera
  • Future cars
    Is there anything that compares?
  • Former cars
    The past is past....

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  1. Just a guess...but how about checking and cleaning the ground point for the headlights/turn signals? Not sure where it is but there must be a common ground point somewhere in the frunk area, maybe under one of the covers next to the battery or near the brake master cylinder.
  2. Look up at the top of this page. Click on Documents. There is a VIN lookup and Option Code decoder. Good thread on all the option codes Option Codes - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums RENNLIST.COM 996 Forum - Option Codes - Hey guys.......been searching on this site but can't find a definitive answer to this question............ Are the option codes on the sticker the actual options that should be on the car........OR........are they simply a list of possible options that could...
  3. Although your question has been answered, if you are going to DIY then this is what you need “996 Torque Book” – Fastening Specifications for Porsche 911 (Type 996) Automobile | The Knowledge Gruppe WWW.THEKNOWLEDGEGRUPPE.COM Fastener size, grade, assembly position and tightening torque. Lacking this publication, most technicians find themselves looking through pages of workshop manuals to search for fastener torque va…
  4. You replaced your MAF sensor....with what brand and type? It must be OEM or a Bosch unit.
  5. Engine number is on the drivers side next to the oil sump pan...like this. You are correct. 2000 was a transition year for the IMSB from the dual row bearing to the smaller single row bearing. As far as I know, on a 2000, there is no way to know whether it has a dual row or single row bearing by using the engine number. If it were me, I would just plan on having the LN IMS Solution installed as soon as possible. No sense in pulling the bearing and replacing with another bearing that will need to replaced again in 36-40K miles.
  6. With all of the parts you have replaced, and if your throttle cable and TB exhibit smooth operation (not sticking through full open and closed), the DME/ECU controls the idle speed. Reset your DME/ECU by disconnecting the negative battery cable for 30 minutes. Make sure if your radio requires a code that you know it. This will return the DME/ECU to default values vs learned values.
  7. My key stopped working over 10 years ago. Does not work to lock/unlock car. New battery in key fob did nothing, however the key fob red light does blink. It just doesn't communicate with the car. I figure the key circuit board is broken based on what I have read. Been using the manual key in the door lock ever since. No problem.
  8. 20 year old key fobs are going to fail, mostly because the circuit board inside the key fob fails. If you changed the battery inside the key and it stops working, more than likely the circuit board has broken. Options? Use the manual key to open and start car. Or go the $$$ route of buying and having new key(s) programmed to the car. Dealer only on that one.
  9. Post over here https://www.renntech.org/forum/239-lost-radio-codes/
  10. A check engine light on simply means one of the parameters the ECU monitors was off, and it always records a code that tells you specifically what was wrong. There are literally thousands of various codes that will throw the CEL. Next time, read the code before you clear codes. That code or codes will point you in the right direction. Also, I would get in touch with whomever did the LS3 conversion and ask them how they rigged the "fly-by-wire" throttle conversion. There is going to be a lot of frankenstein parts involved with an LS3 conversion. Just the fact the GM OBDII port
  11. It would help to know what the sound sounds like. Is it a squeal, thump, roar? Have you lifted the engine lid and made an inspection? It could be that the compressor clutch is heating up and dragging, so when you shut down and restart, it re-positions itself temporarily.
  12. Why are you even driving/running the car with the AC compressor seized? Even though the compressor clutch is disengaged, the clutch compressor bearings are still turning. You need to identify where the "noise" is coming from. A long handled screw driver or mechanics stethoscope placed against each turning component, pulley, will narrow down where the noise is coming from. However, if the compressor is seized, that is more than likely the source. You run the risk of having the compressor seize entirely and that will kill your serpentine belt. Fix your AC compressor!
  13. I have read many threads on using an aftermarket switch and it not working out. Many have tried the VW/Audi switch and it does what yours is doing. For the cost and the pain of replacement, go OEM.
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