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DBJoe996 last won the day on March 22

DBJoe996 had the most liked content!

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About DBJoe996

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  • Birthday 11/23/1956

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  • From
    Daytona Beach, FL
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1999 996 Carrera
  • Future cars
    Is there anything that compares?
  • Former cars
    The past is past....

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  1. Couple of ideas here Drivers Headlights flickering. acting weird on me. Need help - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums RENNLIST.COM 996 Forum - Drivers Headlights flickering. acting weird on me. Need help - Hi guys, I was wondering if someone on here has had the same thing happen to them. Several months back i noticed that sometimes my drivers HL...
  2. I don't think I get it...the hood looks like it is already out of the hood latch and sprung up. Then you move the little red lever that is visible with your finger to the right to open the hood. Am I missing something?
  3. Just because you have fuel pressure at the rails doesn't mean you are getting full fuel flow. A 99 C2 has a fuel filter and at your mileage it should have been replaced already. Also agree on the CPS. Both of these issues will not throw a CEL code because they are not emission related faults. Might also consider the fuel pressure regulator. If it is weak or stuck it will bleed off pressure when the engine is hot.
  4. You mentioned two other things in your first post. The K&N air filter removal. Did you get a stock air filter box? What type of custom muffler bypass? Fister or Gundo, or something else entirely.
  5. The original Porsche MAF sensor is 996-606-123-00-OEM The Bosch OEM MAF sensor is 996-606-123-00-M14. I don't know the difference between the M14 and MS19 and I don't think they are revisions. These are for cars without E-Gas.
  6. Looks like the correct MAF part number for a 99 C2. Is it OE Porsche or Bosch OEM or aftermarket? Our cars are really picky about the correct MAF sensor.
  7. Start with the fuses in the fuse panel. Why did you have to jump start the car? Bad battery, low battery will cause all sorts of electrical problems.
  8. Yes. Pull the pins down and the clips will open. Move them slightly out of the way and you can lift the seat bottom up. Careful, there are some wires attached to the seat bottom that need to be detached before lifting and moving the seat bottom forward and out. Best to get the seat in a position to do this, and move the steering wheel all the way in to make more room. It is also a good idea to disconnect the battery before doing this since the seat pad affects the airbag system and seat belt system. Take a picture of the wiring harness and connectors before disconnecting them.
  9. This certainly is going down hill fast. I would stop locking the car because it may get to the point where it does not unlock. It does appear more and more to be a problem with the immobilizer. When you insert the key in the ignition, the passive RFID pill in the key is read by the immobilizer and a two way communication occurs between the immobilizer and DME. This two way communication says...yes this is the right key so go ahead and power up the systems, fuel pump, ignition circuits and so on. So you are getting part of the two way communications between the immobilizer and DME, but not all of it. And the recent episode of the fuel pump running without the key in the car says to me something is shorted. I also would start removing as much of the wet carpet as you can under the drivers seat. One question - when you put the new battery in, did you connect the + cable first and then the - cable? How did the cables and connectors look?
  10. Weird gremlins. Usually a result of a bad ignition switch, but all you did was replace the battery. Wondering if the immobilizer is keeping the car locked down. Maybe try the fuse panel jumper again with the key in the ignition and turned to ON (not start). Good luck on fishing out the emergency release cable. And after you figure all this out, it is a 15 minute job to relocate the front trunk lid emergency release cable down to just behind the bumper tow hook plug. Saves hours of frustration. Pop the bumper plug and there is the emergency release cable. One tug and you are in.
  11. What does the voltmeter gauge in the instrument cluster read when you turn the ignition to on? Should show almost 14V. You cannot use the fuse panel pop out with a battery charger. It does not provide the amps needed. Hook a strong 12V battery to the fuse panel pop out and grounding point. There is another emergency release cable for the engine lid under the left rear tail light. Take a soft smooth wedge and make some space between the bottom of the light and the bumper. You probably can fish it out with a self made hook. That will gain you access to the jumper points in the engine bay where again you can hook up a good 12V battery (or jump from another vehicle) to see what you can get working. Might be a good idea to check all of your fuses. I recently bought a box of blade fuses and it came with a little tester that you just touch to each fuse to check it. Took about 2 minutes to run through the whole fuse panel. A hair dryer set on low would help dry up the carpet.
  12. MAF sensor wiring has nothing to do with the AC. You should be able to remove the air filter box and still cycle the AC compressor on/off with the engine running.
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