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DBJoe996

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DBJoe996 last won the day on March 12

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About DBJoe996

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  • Birthday 11/23/1956

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    Male

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  • From
    Daytona Beach, FL
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1999 996 Carrera
  • Future cars
    Is there anything that compares?
  • Former cars
    The past is past....

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  1. So the reverse lights stay on, sometimes even while in drive. It looks to me like it is a simple on/off switch controlled by the movement of the shift lever against the roller and microswitch. How do you know it is not the microswitch that is bad? You could pull the wire connectors and test the switch for on/off easily with an ohm meter, or test for on/off voltage with a volt meter. Simple enough test to see if maybe the switch is faulty.
  2. This is why I'm wondering...see the seal on a new OE AOS? It is not like yours, at least from what I can make out.
  3. Very difficult to make this out. Even with the face of the AOS on the block, it still looks like a few millimeters off from the pipe being in the hole. Stumped me. Cram a shop light back there and get some better light on the subject.
  4. Is that an OE Porsche AOS? I remember seeing a picture of the old style AOS with the small seal on it, but the new OE AOS has a different seal. I'll see if I can find a pic.
  5. JFP is right, lube it up. You can also use a smear of clean synthetic engine oil. It must go in and seat.
  6. You have either a short in the wiring or a bad microswitch on the door handle, or just a bad connection to the microswitch. Clean up all connections with electrical contact cleaner.
  7. You have removed the nuts from the motor mounts so you can drop the engine (with support) down to the cross-member...right? You have got to remove or disconnect most of the hoses and lines on that side of the engine in order to get the intake out. Even the AOS coolant hose. This is an extremely complex, intrusive and tedious job. I pulled my entire rear bumper and heat shields on both sides so I would not damage them lowering the engine down to the crossmember. The mufflers on either side would have bowed out the heat shields and bumper and probably, if not done, would have resulted in permanent damage. In a word, take out everything on that side. Having the secondary air system out helps. Having the alternator out helps.
  8. All I remember is that I removed the bolts from the left intake manifold and then moved it over to get the rear plenum out. Actually, did not have to totally remove the rear plenum, just moved the intake manifold over and removed. Just remember the rear plenum has a vacuum line attached that is a real pain to reach. Good luck!
  9. And pull the panels on both sides of the battery. Check the heater core hoses for any signs of a leak, because coolant could pool in the drainage areas under the panels and the smell could enter through the cabin filter intake. Good time to check your drains under there as well.
  10. Aside from a cracked head (which you do not want), there are really only two other places where coolant and oil can mix. One is the air oil separator (AOS) and the other is the heat exchanger on Bank 2. It is generally that oil gets into the coolant since it is at a much higher pressure. Have you checked your coolant tank for oil? Use a turkey baster and remove some of the coolant and put it in a glass jar. Oil and water will separate and you can see it. The old coolant was green and the new coolant is pink. What does it look like in your coolant tank? Never a good idea to just let the car sit and idle. Start and drive. Plan a drive of 20-30 minutes at operating temperature (180+) and then check the oil filler cap. You can also drop just your oil filter and put that oil in a glass jar and see if it separates. In my opinion, it is not unusual to have to add a quart of oil after 2500 miles.
  11. Hate to say it but that yellow sludge in the oil filler tube and cap is a classic sign of not running the engine long enough and hot enough to burn that stuff off. If you had the coolant system pressurized and leak tested, what makes you think you have a coolant leak? Surely something would have happened if the leak test failed. And one quart low on oil? When was the last oil change and how many miles on the oil change? It is not unusual to have to add a quart of oil every once in a while depending on mileage. As said, if you are smelling coolant in the cabin (but again, you had a pressure test done on the coolant system so ????) it could be your heater core. Are you losing any coolant?
  12. Translated: Hello my front wiper does not work. The engine is new and the Lenstock switch too. I don't find the relay. Does anyone have a schematic? check your fuses first
  13. ohhh uhhhh...that looks expensive! Since they are just suspension components, you should not have to remove the engine/transmission. It is amazing that broke. Big pothole? About $2 grand for a new piece Rear Axle Side Section Bracket WWW.AUTOATLANTA.COM
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