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Posts posted by DBJoe996

  1. Although your question has been answered, if you are going to DIY then this is what you need 


    Fastener size, grade, assembly position and tightening torque. Lacking this publication, most technicians find themselves looking through pages of workshop manuals to search for fastener torque va…


  2. Engine number is on the drivers side next to the oil sump pan...like this.  You are correct.  2000 was a transition year for the IMSB from the dual row bearing to the smaller single row bearing.  As far as I know, on a 2000, there is no way to know whether it has a dual row or single row bearing by using the engine number.  If it were me, I would just plan on having the LN IMS Solution installed as soon as possible.  No sense in pulling the bearing and replacing with another bearing that will need to replaced again in 36-40K miles.


    Engine Number.JPG

    • Upvote 1
  3. With all of the parts you have replaced, and if your throttle cable and TB exhibit smooth operation (not sticking through full open and closed), the DME/ECU controls the idle speed.  Reset your DME/ECU by disconnecting the negative battery cable for 30 minutes.  Make sure if your radio requires a code that you know it.  This will return the DME/ECU to default values vs learned values.

  4. A check engine light on simply means one of the parameters the ECU monitors was off, and it always records a code that tells you specifically what was wrong.  There are literally thousands of various codes that will throw the CEL.  Next time, read the code before you clear codes.  That code or codes will point you in the right direction.


    Also, I would  get in touch with whomever did the LS3 conversion and ask them how they rigged the "fly-by-wire" throttle conversion.  There is going to be a lot of frankenstein parts involved with an LS3 conversion.  Just the fact the GM OBDII port didn't work but the Porsche OBDII port did is really questionable.  Did they somehow "marry" (connect) the Porsche ECU to a GM ECU?  How?

  5. Why are you even driving/running the car with the AC compressor seized?  Even though the compressor clutch is disengaged, the clutch compressor bearings are still turning. You need to identify where the "noise"  is coming from.  A long handled screw driver or mechanics stethoscope placed against each turning component, pulley, will narrow down where the noise is coming from.  However, if the compressor is seized, that is more than likely the source.  You run the risk of having the compressor seize entirely and that will kill your serpentine belt.  Fix your AC compressor!

  6. 2 hours ago, JFP in PA said:

    Nice job, but you ran a large risk; for your own safety in the future, disconnect the battery for 15-20 min. before doing something like this.

    You are correct and normally I do.  Don't know why I didn't on this job since it involves disconnecting the air bag. I ran the engine so I could crank the steering wheel to get to the airbag bolts, and it all just kind went from there. Got lucky....but not a wise thing to do.

  7. I wanted to document my project so it might help the next person.  Problem - horn honking when going over bumps.  Pulled B3 fuse until my new horn frame came in.  I noticed in some previous post they said use a T30 bit.  Mine is a 99 C2 four spoke steering wheel.  The correct bit is a T27 for the air bag bolts.  They were definitely tight so I bought a right angled tool. I ran the car and turned the steering wheel so I could easily access the two air bag bolts at 6 o'clock.  It was fairly easy.  I held on to the airbag and undid the bolts.  Turned off car and removed the key.  Gently lowered the airbag.  The yellow connector on the back of the air bag simply unplugs, pull it off and set the air bag aside.  The four bolts that hold the horn frame are 17mm and come right out.  A reverse of the procedure is all it took.  The air bag bolts must be in the back side of the horn frame, so I used some small sections of rubber hose to hold the bolts in place until I got the frame bolted in, then removed them and put air bag in place.  That was about it. The rubber bushings on the old horn frame were basically gone, thus the horn honking going over bumps.  I did not undo the battery and the air bag light did not come on after I was done.







  8. Do they go down all the way, or like about an 8 inch drop? Do the windows drop slightly when you pull the door handle?  My car has done this on the drivers side window.  Lock it and walk away. Come back to the car and the window had dropped about 8 inches.  I did replace the window regulator and the entire door latch mechanism w/microswitches with OE Porsche parts.  The car has never done the window drop again.  It is strange that both windows are doing it since there is no connection between the windows that would make them both drop. I would also give a thought to the window switches in the center console.

  9. 15 hours ago, mdreef said:

    One additional thought for my CEL is that I noticed the clip that connects the upper AOS tube (#5 in the diagram) to the AOS is broken. This means that the o-ring is likely not making a positive seal.  Could this be the cause of a vacuum leak that would affect the SAI system?



    AOS Upper Tube.jpg

    Yes, that could cause a vacuum leak.  Probably not an issue/problem for secondary air injection.  SAI pump runs and pumps air (positive pressure) into the exhaust system to light off the cats.


  10. In my opinion, the secondary air injection system is a bandaid to USA emissions control and should be entirely eliminated.  You should consider the cheaper alternative of having the ECU/DME programmed for ROW (rest of world) coding to eliminate/ignore the SAI system.  Try the ECU Doctors...they can do it.


    Porsche, BMW, Ferrari - We'll make any used ECU work - Send us your damaged ECU and we'll TEST and REPAIR your unit and send it back to you with our 5 YEAR WARRANTY.


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