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Posts posted by DBJoe996

  1. It sounds to me from your description that the starter motor is spinning but the solenoid is not kicking in the bendix.  Bench testing is one thing.  A starter motor requires a tremendous amount of amperage to operate, thus the two circuits to make it happen.  One is the main lead (big heavy wire main lead) that spins up the starter motor, and then the smaller lead to the solenoid to kick in the bendix.  Are you familiar with the Y-cable?  This is the one that connects to the starter circuit from the main junction point in  the engine bay.  Notorious for failing from internal corrosion.  What is the voltage at the main junction box (+ jumper point) in the engine bay?

  2. Two thoughts come to mind since you are saying "oil pooling on the block".  I thought you were talking about oil inside the plenum.  Have you checked your oil filler tube for cracks?  There is also the AOS crossover line that goes from the AOS to Bank 2 that becomes very brittle from heat and then cracks.  Both of these can cause rough running.  Maybe you should consider having your engine and intake smoke tested.

  3. A failed AOS will dump a bunch of oil in the plenum and it is very difficult to get it all out.  It pools in the nooks and crannies of the intake plenum, thus the first sign of AOS failure is exhaust smoke..think like a gigantic smoke screen behind the car.  Unless you think the new AOS has failed (which happens...BTW did you put in an original Porsche OE AOS?), I would just monitor this for awhile.  Watch your oil level carefully.

  4. You say you have a new battery.  Why did you put in a new battery?  Was the old one giving you trouble?  What size new battery and how many reserve amps?

    It sounds to me to be just like when the starter gets heat soaked and the solenoid doesn't kick it.  Does the starter motor run when you try to start it, and just not engage the bendix gear to the flywheel?

    It is okay to check the voltage drop between the battery and the engine bay connection with a multimeter.  However, when you start disconnecting things to check for corrosion or loose connections, always disconnect the negative lead on the battery first.

    Usually one of the first culprits in this type of situation is the electrical part of the ignition switch.  You might want to replace it first before doing other things.

  5. I feel for you.  I'm normally over on the 996 forum but this is purely a mechanical problem.  Since the coil pack is mostly retained by the tight fit in the spark plug hole, and since you are mostly concerned about it vibrating loose, I would grind the bolt part flush with the flat brass insert with a Dremel grinding disc (small enough to do the job), then use a dab of some silicone glue on the brass insert to hold the coil pack.  It is amazing how well it holds, and is completely removable the next time.  There are two bolts that hold in the coil pack, so how is the other coil pack bolt?

  6. You can test the ICV by removing it from the throttle  body and cycling it with a 9V battery.  It should move smoothly and not bind.  Make sure to clean all the gunk and carbon from the rotating valve body inside the ICV.

    Since you replaced the air filter with a stock box, reset the DME/ECU by disconnecting the negative battery lead for 30 minutes, then  reconnect and go for a 20+ minute drive to allow the DME to re-establish sensor values.

  7. What did they fill it with?  Oil type and weight such as 0W-40?  The sensor for the engine bay fan is located between the intake runners on the top passenger side of engine.  There is a rubber grommet that it fits into.  If it falls out, it rests against the engine and when hot, will make the fan run.  How is your coolant level?  Did they vacuum fill the system?  Have you tried "burping" the coolant system by manually lifting the bale wire on the coolant tank?

  8. P0300 is a generic code for misfires.  P0301-P0303 are misfires for cylinders 1, 2, and 3. Your other post is about hard starting.  I would start by checking the fuel pressure at the fuel rails.  There is a valve just for that purpose.  Also, at the same time test fuel pressure bleed down.  That will test your fuel pressure regulator.  The Bank 1 misfires may be either electrical (coils/plugs) or fuel.  When was the last time you ran some fuel injector treatment/Cleaner (like Techron) through the system? Also, actually remove the engine ground wire and clean up the connections from any corrosion/rust.

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