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DBJoe996

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Posts posted by DBJoe996

  1. The switch is mounted horizontally, and yes, you must twist it to unlock it from the mount. It's a tricky job but it can be done (since I have done it). Make sure you buy a OE Porsche replacement switch correct for your VIN, and also, there are two switches on the brake pedal, one for the brake lights and one for the cruise control. I believe the black switch is for the brake lights and the reddish one is for the cruise control. If you can't picture it in your mind, stick your cell phone under the dash and take a few pictures. Helps with orientation.

  2. I see no one has posted a response.  So, in this case, I would kindly suggest booking an appointment at your nearest local Porsche dealer.  They will have the highly specialized equipment, knowledge and expertise to deal with the AC service on your Porsche.  This is not a DIY or backyard mechanic type of thing.  Most people won't have the knowledge or answer to your questions because this is not  in the normal realm of DIY.

  3. The threaded rod that extends from the door lock mechanism and door latch assembly snaps into the black plastic connector on the door latch side.  There is a small collar that you need to slide back on the black plastic piece, then the threaded rod unsnaps from the connector piece.

  4. Your 20 year old key fob has stopped working.  Welcome to the club.  Your circuit board in the key has broken and now doesn't work to lock/unlock the car.  Mine has been that way for 15 years.  I just use the blade to lock/unlock.  Options?  Go to dealership, order new keys from Stuttgart (only place in the world to get replacement keys), put wallet on counter and empty it of all remaining credit cards (read this as replacement keys are very expensive - $450 plus each plus ensuring programming  correctly to your car - Porsche dealer only).

  5. what I contemplated doing was lifting up the bottom seat to expose the motors, then by splicing in some 12V and ground to make the motors move.  But I never did it.  I would contemplate doing it if the seat was way out of position.  The seat control and memory module is #12.  For that price not about to go through the contortions of getting the whole seat out.

    See diagram w/motors here 

     

    • Like 1
  6. I have run into the same problem.  The drivers side seat refuses to move in any direction.  I pulled the switch and it appears to be okay.  I pulled the white tabs under the bottom of the seat to release it from the frame.  This allows access to the under seat wiring.  I checked everything.  I believe it comes down to the memory seat unit under the seat.  I have power to it, but nothing works.  I think it fried itself.  Fortunately, the seat is in the correct position for me, so I gave up on it. Hasn't worked in about 2 years.  It is just dead. And bonus, you need to be able to run the seat forwards and backwards to get to the seat bolts in order to lift up the seat and get to the memory module.  Not happening.

    • Like 1
  7. The simple  answer is yes, Durametric will tell you the status of the smog monitors.  Sometimes it works better to disconnect the negative battery lead, wait 20 minutes, re-connect then do the 30-60 minutes of drive time to re-establish all the ECU/DME monitors.  There are some detailed threads on what other people did regarding the drive time and getting all the smog monitors good to go.

  8. I have never heard of a feature where the car self locks.  Of course you already know that after 5 days the immobilizer stops listening for the key fob to conserve battery power. Then you have to unlock the car with the key if it is locked.   I leave my car unlocked for days and weeks and it never self locks.  Something is up with this and I don't know what.

  9. Fuse E6 - check

    Fuel vent valve - replace

    Reed Magnetic Switch - replace

    RENNLIST.COM

    996 Forum - Replaced fuel vent valve - now unable to fill gas tank - Have had a couple of instances of P0422 (minor vapor leak) recently and an occasional fuel smell in the cabin. Replaced the gas cap, however that did not solve the problem. Replaced the fuel vent valve...

     

  10. There is so much wrong with this approach I don't know  where to begin.  Agreed, a trip to the dealer MAY sort this out, but I would hold onto your wallet.  The key, immobilzer and DME/ECU must all be programmed with the same codes only Porsche Stuttgart can provide, to a licensed Porsche dealer with PIWIs.  What you have done is replace parts with other parts and expect them to work.  It doesn't work like that.  Key provides both the mechanical laser cut key blade that works the electro-mechanical parts of the door locks and key switch, BUT, also includes an passive RFID pill that must match the key code programmed into  the immobilzer.  The key RFID pill is read when the key is inserted into the ignition switch by the ignition switch surround. The pill must match the immobilzer key  codes.  If it is correct, the  immobilzer communicates a go (or no go) to the DME/ECU.  All must be programmed the same. The codes in each must all match or the car will not start.

    You are looking at least at several hundreds of dollars at a Porsche dealer for programming.  If the keys, immobilzer and DME/ECU need to be replaced, several thousands of dollars...at a Porsche dealer.  And bonus, the immobilzer can only be reprogrammed a limited number of times, then it must be replaced. Walk very carefully on this one. Remember, this is a security feature  of our cars so they cannot be stolen, and only the Porsche factory in Stuttgart will provide the codes to a licensed Porsche dealer.  Good luck.

    • Upvote 1
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