DBJoe996

The OBDII codes are indicating an intake air leak or vacuum leak, resulting in misfires P0300-P0303, P1316...probably.  Since you have already replaced the O2 sensors and MAF sensor you can rule those out.  It could be coils/plugs, but all at once and on Bank 1 and cylinder 4?  Does not seem likely.  How old are your coil packs and plugs?  First rule of mechanics...always go back to the last thing you did.   AOS replacement is a huge job requiring removal of a lot of things.  Suggesting it may be something left unplugged or not reconnected right during the job.  Sounds like you had a shop do the AOS replacement.  Could you take it back to them for diagnoses of the current problems?  Did you check the oil filler pipe?  It has to be contorted many times out of the way during AOS replacement.

Another picture of the vacuum line system and connections

A lot of top engine stuff needs to come out to replace the AOS.  I would first check carefully the oil filler pipe for cracks.  It usually cracks where the corrugated section starts. Make sure the oil cap is on tight.  Since the front and back intake plenums are removed during AOS  replacement, check the plenums for centering and all the clamps are tight.  Then you need to start checking the vacuum lines, and there are a lot.  You might need to smoke test the vacuum system and intake system.  A lot of times someone forgets to reconnect the vacuum lines, particularly the one to the resonance flap on rear crossover plenum, and the other ones (two) to the back of the front plenum.

vacuum lines.pdf

You need to check all of the drains.  Run some weed whacker string down the drains to make sure they are clear.

At least it stopped working with the door unlocked!  If it happens when the door is locked you have a real problem.

There is a pin shaft on the back side of the key cylinder that can break or fall off.  You will have to remove the door card and access the back of the door handle to check it.  Here is a diagram of the door handle and key cylinder.  You can see the shaft on the back of the key cylinder.

Like Loren suggested, maybe an electrical issue.  Check the wiring harness for the Bank 1 variocam actuator.  Bank 1 is left side (drivers side) of engine, and the variocam actuator is right next to the heat shield.

Your approach seems like a good one.  I would do this:

Drain oil and remove oil sump pan.  Check oil pickup tube for debris.  Change oil filter, inspect, and replace with new oil filter and get a new canister (bypass valve in the canister may be stuck open or malfunctioning).  Reinstall oil sump pan then refill with new oil.  Remove oil sender unit and hook up a mechanical gauge to the fitting.  Check oil pressure at startup.  If it is good, might be a good idea to swap out the oil pressure sender unit again.  They have been known to be bad right out of the box.

Rule #1 - don't take your car through the car wash!  Our cars just do not like all that power spray water everywhere.  Could it be that water sprayed somewhere it shouldn't have on the engine?  I know those wheel cleaning jets would spray water right up on the engine.  Might let the car and engine dry for a few days, clear the code and see if it comes back.

2000 MY was a transition period for Porsche.  Some have dual row bearings and some have single row bearings.  So you will not know until you are in there.

Cam deviations depend on a lot of variables.  Check out this thread

And this one

If both keys work to unlock the car and both keys work to start the car, then that is okay.  The RFID pill in the key is passive, meaning it does not require power but is still read by the key surround to allow the car to start.  At the age of our cars (close to 20 years old) and thus the age of our key fobs, more than likely the circuit board in the key(s) have given up and don't work the remote lock/unlock anymore.  If you can live with using the key to manually lock/unlock the car, and don't want to fork over $400 at the dealership for a working remote key that will last for 4-5 years, then it is okay as long as both start the car.

How steady are your hands? Drill a small hole in the seal, put a small sheet metal screw in and pull.  Be careful to only drill into the seal.  Other than that, I would try prying it out with a small flat blade screwdriver.  As a last resort, you may have to pull the brake piston out and then pull the seal.  You will lose a bit of brake fluid and you will have to bleed that caliper once done.

All of the refrigerant circuit lines here 

Read the instructions for popping the headlights out, and after you do that then check the wiring loom for the headlight.  At the age of our cars, the wiring insulation is very brittle and breaks off easily.  It may be that the wires have shorted.  The only solution is to carefully wrap the wires with electrical tape.  There is no replacement wiring loom for the headlights, and new replacement headlights are mega expensive.

M96/04  66Y  is a 2000 MY engine, so it may be original.  No way to tell if it is a single row or double row IMSB.  MY 2000 is when they began a mix of engines with both dual row and then single row bearings.  Just factor in having the bearing replaced, with the LN Solution being the best.

Could be one of the microswitches, or another more common failure is the window regulator (the mechanism that raises and lowers the window).  Over time they develop slop and need replacement.  When you pull the door handle, listen closely to the door and see if it is making a noise as it tries to drop the window.  Another way is to open the door and see if you can push the window glass down a little bit.  If neither is the case it is probably one of the microswitches on the door handle.

Page 442

Indeed, incorrect pedal value from DME.  Clear the code in the DME.  Do a pedal adaptation...key on (no start) for 60 seconds, then key off for 10 seconds.  Do not touch or move the pedal while resetting the adaptation.  Drive and see if the code comes back.  A snip from the Essential Campanion.  Also, clean your MAF sensor.  It has been known to trigger both lights coming on.

Get an outdoor car cover!

Make sure you keep an eye on the coolant level in the tank.  You displaced some air in the system and your coolant level may drop. 50/50 mix of Porsche coolant and distilled water to top it up.  Also make sure you have the latest coolant tank cap...it is blue and the part number ends in 04.  The old caps had a tendency to leak so Porsche updated/revised the cap.  The part number is located on the cap.  Good job!

How is the coolant level? Any recent work done on the cooling/heating system?  New tank?  New pressure cap?  New water pump?  The reason I ask is it is very difficult to "burp" the cooling system on these cars.  Make sure the coolant level is correct and open the "burp" valve on the coolant tank by raising the wire to open the valve (the black valve on top of the coolant tank).  Leave it up.   Several  heating and cooling cycles is necessary to remove air from the system.  Always when doing so, put the heat on maximum so any air is forced out of the system.  While doing so, constantly check the coolant level and top it up if necessary.

Just wait until you pop the light out to change the bulb.  You will probably find that the wire harness on the light has lost most if not all of the wire insulation.  On a 99 at almost 20 years old, the wire insulation just crumbles off the wiring harness, and could be shorted.  No replacement wiring harness is available.  You either have to make one yourself or wrap each wire with electrical tape.  It is a painstaking process that requires a lot of patience.  The only other solution is a new light at $$$$$$$$.

I assume you are talking about the IMSB (intermediate shaft bearing) and not the actual IMS (intermediate shaft).  It is really difficult to say because a full replacement engine could have been manufactured anywhere between 2003 and 2008 and put on the shelf until needed.  What is the engine number?  It is stamped on the lower part of the left hand side of the engine.  It will be something like M96/XXXXXXXXX.  The engine number can tell you a lot about when the engine was manufactured/built.  If the engine number has an AT in it, then it is a factory rebuilt or replacement engine.

LED lights are polarity sensitive.  Sometimes just reversing the power and ground makes it work, or in a single bayonet bulb case, it works one way but not the other.

3 hours ago, greg0078 said:

Thank u for the response.  My battery charger was not providing enough amperage.  I called out AAA, and they put their batter booster on the side post and 2 seconds, i was able to pop the trunk.  I am going to have the shop fish the battery cable for, great advice.  

Awesome!  Good work.