DBJoe996

Helpful tip - Mask your bumper with some painters tape prior to probing with the hook.

On 9/10/2017 at 9:42 PM, Chodey said:

Driver side window does not drop when opening the door. I can hear the mechanism work when I slowly open the handles but it is not dropping the window. The window goes up and down just fine in regular operation. I've tried "retraining" the windows but no luck. Any ideas? Regulator issue?

Replace the window regulator with an OE new regulator.  The cables develop slack over time.  i would do that before jumping into other issues.  Do not go cheap on the replacement part...get an OE part.  This is a good technical article from Pelican parts on how to do it - http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/77-BODY-Replacing_Your_Window_Regulator_and_Motor/77-BODY-Replacing_Your_Window_Regulator_and_Motor.htm

Disconnecting the battery will do nothing in your case.  It will not reset the alarm nor will it unlock the doors.  Your problem is the pin behind the lock tumbler has broken or become disconnected from the lock barrel.  Nothing shy of "breaking" into your car will work.

Don't know if this will help - transmissions and part numbers here http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=302-00

Undo the throttle cable from the TB and carefully but with firmness give it a hard pull.  The back of the throttle cable snaps into the black plastic flucrum piece, and  both need to be snapped into place on the TB.  Been there....done that.

Swap the right side ballast/ignitor with the left side and see if it works.

From the parts link I provided I count 5 bulbs in the unit.  That includes the fog light bulb and direction indicator bulb.  There is a halogen H11 bulb that I believe is the low beam light.  You can get one from almost every auto parts store.  Might be worth a try to just replace it with a new one.

The Litronic headlights have a self-leveling function, with linkages to the front suspension and rear suspension.  Do they move up and down when you turn them on?  Also, for the Litronics there is a ballast (control unit) that fires the light.  Might check that out.  See parts here http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=905-03

I was doing a bit more research and ran across two things.  On a turbo, oil pressure is critical,  and one thread suggested that a bad oil pressure sender can cause the failure indicator to light up, but usually with an oil can, not the engine like in your display.  I see from your gauges that it is showing about 1 bar of oil pressure.  How is that so when the engine is not running/idling?  I am still concerned about that 15V.  What type of charger did you connect...a jump charger?  Never seen a automotive type charger put that much voltage on a car.

I also ran across this while looking for the engine light with failure indicator (could it be that simple?)

Did you check the fuse inside of the DME?  There is a blade type fuse inside the DME unit.  I know you are in contact with Cobb, but you may, in the end, need to contact ECUDoctors  http://www.ecudoctors.com/

They usually are very responsive with help. 

From their website there are instructions for how to enclose the ECU/DME in a waterproof box.  If you follow this link then go to the PDF installation instructions, it explains where the ECU/DME 15 amp fuse is located and how you get to it. http://www.ecudoctors.com/porsche-996-boxster-waterproof-immobilizer-case-enclosure.html

Another  nugget of information.

I know it might be of no help, but I took a picture of my lock barrel and the orientation of the small hole.  Mine is a 99 C2.  The second picture is from the Pelican Parts Tech article on how to remove the ignition lock.

It is strange that the orientation looks the same installed, but when they flip it over it has the same orientation as your picture in relation to the plastic tab.  I also see they used a large paper clip which shows it cannot be that deep in order to push on the pin for release.  So maybe get some WD-40 in there and see if the lock barrel is just stuck.

Don't forget to check/replace the relays 1 & 7 in Relay Support 2

Why is your voltmeter showing +15V at no start, ignition key in position one?  Seems you have a major problem related to that.  It should not be that high..ever.  Something is going to get fried at that level, and you are talking about some sensitive electronic equipment.  You could try disconnecting the battery negative lead for 10-15 minutes and see if you can reset the DME/ECU.  But I would definitely check out the very high voltage problem...shorted battery perhaps?  Also, there is a fuse in the DME/ECU that might have blown.  It is inside the DME/ECU.  And you should start checking other fuses as well.

Pelican article on steering lock removal.  One comment (bottom of article) says to take a pick and try to rotate the sliver part 180 degrees to the correct position.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/86-ELEC-Replacing_Your_Ignition_Switch_Steering_Lock/86-ELEC-Replacing_Your_Ignition_Switch_Steering_Lock.htm

Some trials and deliberations on the key removal

Steering_Lock.pdf

There are a couple of links in this thread and what people did to replace the foam 

My experience with this is the foam deteriorated and came out the vents.  After awhile it stopped doing it.  Put the HVAC fan on high and I took a shop vac to the vents and tweezers to pull out the bits.  Several times of this and it all stopped.  I have never had a problem with AC cooling or heating after all this, and it has been years now.  I do appreciate someone undertaking a repair of the foam, but I do not see the point as it will also deteriorate with time.  Just one of those things.

Just a wild guess.  Is there a tab in the raised square part on the electrical connector.  Maybe a flat blade screwdriver in there and move/slide the connector up (to the right in the picture).

Are the brake pads installed with the dampers?  Are they perhaps loose, or the dampers are not bonded to the brake pads?  I have chosen to install my brake pads without the dampers and on occasion, on certain bumpy roads, the pads will rattle in the calipers.  A slight touch of the brake pedal stops the rattle, so I know exactly what it is.

See brake pad dampers here http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/supertech/catalog.cgi?action=frameset&return-url=/cgi-bin/supertech/catalog.cgi%3Faction%3Dframeback%26page%3D48&catalog-url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pelicanparts.com%2Fcatalog%2FSuperCat%2F4311%2FPOR_4311_BRKPAD_pg1.htm%3Futm_source%3DSuperTech%23item2

I would start with changing out the flasher relay for a new one. Could be simple.

I  will tread carefully on this one.  Hopefully your husband is okay.  This may or may not be a simple case of airbag failure, and why, because there are insurance, medical and legal ramifications and questions at stake, for your husband and for Porsche, and for the other drivers involved.  Apparently the airbag should have been deployed, but failed.  This is a serious matter.  So,

1) Get an attorney to help you investigate and advise you

2) Have the vehicle flat-bedded to a Porsche Dealer

3) Tell them you are developing a legal investigation into what failed and why

4) Have them query the DME/ECU with the Porsche PWIIS software to pinpoint what failed and any error codes

5) Specifically tell them not to reset any codes they find

6) Tell them that the particular failure of the airbag deployment system will be sent to Porsche North America by your attorney, so you need documentation of everything

Just my suggestions.

That's a lot of broken manifold bolts!  You have a lot of work ahead.  1,2,3 look abnormal, like coolant or something got in there.  3 looks wet maybe from a bad plug/coil?  4,5.6 are black with carbon and look more normal.  I would investigate a lot more of  this engine before installing it.

A general rule of thumb is to wait at least 15 minutes after disconnecting the battery to do any work on an airbag.  They have capacitors that store voltage in the case that somehow the electrical system is disrupted but the airbags may still need to be deployed.  Think crashing.  I usually wait for 30 minutes to error on the side of safety.  BTW, disconnect your alarm horn and you won't have that problem.  Also, as stated, once you are finished you will have to re-train everything.  Also, make sure you have your radio code, if necessary, prior to disconnecting the battery.

From what others have found - the most simple test is to get the car stone cold (after overnight sitting), open the engine lid and place your hand on the alternator.  If it is warm, or hot, the diodes in the alternator voltage regulator are bad.  This has been known to cause significant voltage drain in a short period of time.  The voltage regulator can be replaced without a whole new alternator.