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Posts posted by DBJoe996

  1. Durametric in this case will not tell you anything.  Generally, CEL's are related to emission equipment and running conditions.  That being said, I consider Durametric a wise investment.  Now, you have had the car a week and noticed a quark with the gas gauge.  Are you really ready to spend $$$ chasing this down?  Could be the sending unit is a bit sticky from non-use. 12 gallons in would put it at about 7/8 of a full tank.  I would wait until after a few more fill ups before jumping in with $$$ to check this out. 

  2. The electrical portion of the ignition switch is well known for all sorts of electrical gremlins.  Not a good way to test it.  Mostly people just replace it.  Since you replaced the fuse and did not start the car and the seat functions worked...then you started the car and the seat does not function...maybe the ignition switch.

  3. One other thing I've thought of....I don't care about the memory seat and I'd love to eliminate the memory module.  But without being able to move the seat I cannot get to the seat rail bolts, and thus I cannot access the seat memory module.  Passenger seat works fine, so what I would like to do is replace the drivers seat wiring with a harness from a passenger seat.  Have not found one and no separate part number exists.  Stuck on that one.

  4. By the way, there is no way to manually adjust the seat.  My drivers seat refuses to move.  The fuse is good and I have checked every wire under the seat, both power and ground.  My Durametric software can communicate with the seat memory module and no faults are found.  I have spent hours under the seat to try and figure it out, but I have not found the problem.  Fortunately the seat position is exactly where I want it.  I suspect that either the seat memory module is faulty or the memory buttons on the door sill are screwed up somehow.  This is perhaps a better picture of the white seat clamp...pull the center pin down and it releases the front of the seat bottom so you can lift it up.  And the memory module wiring.




  5. Unfortunately the drivers seat is problematic.  There are the seat switches for moving the seat, the memory switches on the door sill, and the seat memory module under the front part of the seat.  There is a mass of wiring under the seat.  More than likely the wiring under the seat is shorted because one of the wires got caught in the seat rails.  And...if it is blowing the seat fuse then bonus...you cannot move the seat to access the bolts to remove the seat to check underneath.  First step, reach way under the seat from behind and feel the wires and move them around.  I know this is blind but simply moving the wires may eliminate the short.  Then, if this fails, you need to lift up the seat bottom.  There are two white plastic clips under the front of the seat.  You pull down the pins and that releases the white clips that hold the seat bottom on the seat rail.  Then you carefully lift up and pull forward the seat bottom.  Careful here because there are wires attached to the seat bottom.  You want to just prop up the seat bottom to expose the wiring underneath.  Then you will have to see if you can find where a wire is shorted or stuck in the seat rail.





  6. Have to agree with Loren.  Sounds like something is wrong.  I'm in Florida, the heat is many times over 100 and my engine compartment fan rarely runs.  It might be difficult to find a switched source of 12V with sufficient amps to run the engine compartment fan all the time. The engine compartment fan is controlled by a sensor between the intake manifolds,  and conditions are monitored by the ECU, so the fan could run even after the car is turned off.  Start with cleaning the radiators, putting in a low temp thermostat, drain, flush and refill the coolant.  Only Porsche coolant and 50/50 mix with distilled water for a refill is recommended.  Exactly how hot is your car running?

  7. Actually it sounds about right for a dealership.  This is not a simple job of pulling the drain plug and then refilling.  It is a rather complicated process with specific parameters that need to be met during the refilling.  And it involves an experienced knowledgeable mechanic to do it right, so you are paying for that as well.  I've heard of people having significant problems with tiptronics after someone didn't do the job right.  So what is your reason for changing the transmission fluid?  Age/mileage? Hard shifting?

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