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In case anyone sees/needs this info, today the issue returned after a 60 mile road trip. I could not get it to resolve. Needing to drive home, I began experimenting with things, and hit the sport mode button prior to starting the car. The car then started in sport & everythig was fine - all the way home. I even took it out of sport & all stayed good. Ran like a champ. Happy for something of a temporary solution, but confused for sure.

Hi guys, as stated above, 2011 V6 970, new to me, with 113,000 miles. Great condition, and drives great 95% of the time. On occasion (& seemingly when warm, after a longer drive?), typically when idling in park, I will get CE light, accompanied by PSM failure. Also, one time, got "auto start/stop failure", but I have since disabled that, so it doesn't pop up anymore. Durametric (actually POR icarsoft unit I travel with) showed only codes for P0302 and sport mode failure. Interestingly, if I turn the car off for a while, and restart, the codes will go away on their own. Anyway, sensing the issue was with cylinder #2, my mechanic replaced the plug and coil for that cylinder. We noted that neither looked bad, and no visible cracks on the coil. I also show "coils replaced" on a carfax report from back at 82k miles. Unfortunately, i didn't get any other service records or history from before my ownership, as I bought from a dealer. Car ran fine for a week or so, then got the issue again. Still showing P0302. So, I'm wondering what's next? Possible clogged/gunked injector? I put in a bottle of Techron, but the tank was 3/4 full. I'm waiting to run through the gas, to maybe add another small bottle when close to empty. I'm hoping its nothing more serious, as the car drives great and seems to have full power a vast majority of the time. I've put about 600 miles since purchase, and the issue has popped up, I think 3 times. Did it last night, after about a 40 mile drive (interestingly this time it did it after the car had been shut off for an hour or so), so I ran the codes, but did not clear them. This morning, on its own, CE and other warning gone. and car ran great. Any advice or input, as always, greatly appreciated!

I am unfortunately reviving this (exactly!) year old thread, started by me, as the symptoms I described above have mysteriously returned. Essentially: Higher than normal idle (1200-1500: goes up as car warms up), lack of power upon acceleration (probably 50-60%), and failure of sport mode to activate. Those are the primary symptoms. We replaced the throttle body, and thought that did the trick (seemed to for a while). Also in the last year, we've replaced the water pump, AOS, and drivebelt. My lucky year! Anyway, after about 3,000 miles, the problem has returned. It did a couple months ago, but after disconnecting the battery, it self corrected - for a time. Now its back and nothing I do seems to help. I removed the MAF completely, and the idle drops down to normal-ish, but there is ZERO acceleration. I assume that tells me the MAF is good? My other hint is from Borrowed knockoff Durametric software, I got the following readings (there has been NO CE light through any of this, and yes, the CE light bulb works) Codes: P1514 - FACTORY FAULT CODE 540 - THROTTLE JACKING UNIT LOWER MECHANICAL STOP P1511 - FACTORY FAULT CODE 543 P2126 - THROTTLE ADJUSTING UNIT - POTENTIOMETER 2 P2121 - THROTTLE ADJUSTING UNIT - POTENTIOMETER 1 P1517 - THROTTLE JACKING UNIT ABORTION OF TEST I believe that test was while running. When tested not running, the only readout was P1514. So, since the throttle body is new, I am wondering if it could be the other throttle position sensor - the gas pedal. Would love to hear if anyone has any insight or related experiences. THANK YOU!

So, in case anyone runs into a similar problem, it turns out the problem was indeed the throttle body, in this case. It may have actually been the (attached) sensor, as the throttle body itself seemed ok. Once the DME "learned" the new T.B., everything has been great, and the car is back to running like new. I hope this helps, if anyone else encounters a similar problem.

Hi, thanks for the post. The battery is, I believe, approx 2 yrs old. Voltage is strong and consistent from the battery, and also to the alternator. Interestingly, we kind of think we have it narrowed down (hopefully!) to a bad throttle body. Others have posted of similar issues. So we just replaced the throttle body, and got full power back (& also eliminated "sport mode failure" message which had started illuminating), but now the idle is VERY erractic, the car is harder starting. Unfortunately, for some reason, the OEM throttle body I ordered didn't come with a new seal, so I am now ordering a seal, and hoping this will take care of the idle - and all problems. I will report back. Anyone please feel free to chime in, if they have any input or advice! Thanks again for all.

Hi, my mechanic just checked the voltage, and noted everything is good, and consistent. Would anyone have any further suggestions to this mystery? It's difficult to trace with no CEL. Thanks in advance!

Thank you JFP, will plan to check that ASAP!

Hi guys, I always appreciate the helpful information I get here, so I thought I'd throw out my latest issue, and see if anyone had any input or advice. I have a 2006 997.1 C4S coupe, with approx 75k miles. I've owned the car for two, essentially trouble free years. I've sensed for a while now that I might be eventually facing the alternator cable update coming, as she's become a little slow to crank, and definitely slower when warm. But the car has always started, and then run great. I recently had an oil anaysis at Blackstone, and everything checked out well. Anyway, over the weekend, when I went to start the car, it was a little slower cranking than usual, but did start. After this, and ever since, it has been idling high - at 1,100-1,200, seemingly getting higher as the car gets warmer, and acceleration is at - I'd estimate, only 50-60% or so. Actually feels more like my 2.7 Boxster (way off, but seemingly more than limp mode). There is no CEL, and no codes. As per advice given to guys here on previous threads, I cleaned the throttle body (which looked pretty good to start with), as well as the MAF (ditto). No change in performance. So...my question is...could this performance change possibly be related to the alternator cable issue? Could the related voltage change cause these issues? If not, does anyone have any other suggestions of where to look? Plugs were done a year, and approximately 3,00 miles ago (I know, I need to drive it more), and coils were stated to be in good visible shape at that time. Thank you, as always, for any valuable input you can provide!!

Also, if I read correctly, we never find out what the true issue/solution was on the related post (below), so it's possible I could be dealing with a faulty DME?

Thank you for the input! The plugs, coils and tubes were all replaced in the last year, but I suppose it's worth taking a look at. Thanks again - will report back if any conclusive findings.

Thanks guys, for the quick follow up. I had seen that article, and certainly noticed the similarities between car and issue, but frankly, it goes over my head (most things do). I will share the info with my mechanic though, and see if we get anywhere. Would your expert opinion(s) be then, that the misfire codes are unrelated, and perhaps due to weather, as George S suggested? Primarily concerned as to whether or not the car should be driven - even to the shop, as we diagnose. Thanks as always!

PS - all the wiring around and related to the sensors has been checked for continuity, and seems to be in good shape. I know this has been a source of the P0343 code in the past. Thanks!

Hi, 2001 986 2.7 with 152k miles. When I purchased the car, much work had already been done, including the (preventative) IMS bearing retrofit, plugs, tubes, coils, and AOS. The car was still throwing a P0343 code after my purchase, so we replaced both camshaft position sensors. Unfortunately, after clearing the CE light, it came back after about 20 miles or so. I don't drive the car too often (yet anyway!), but have used it occasionally, maybe 100-150 miles or so. I should note, it runs FINE. I've probably owned 5 or 6 986s, and this one seems to run comparable to any. Anyway, I decided to pull it out today, and drive it to work. It was raining pretty hard. As I approached a stoplight, I suddenly got a flashing CE light! The flashing stopped once I began moving again, and the light went back to just solid illumination. I probably wouldn't have normally risked it, but since the car was running seemingly fine, and I was only a few blocks from work, I went ahead and drove to the office. I pulled it in my private garage, and ran the codes: P0343 (still), P0300, and P1130. I believe these are misfire codes. Any relation? Does this point where I thought I was headed, to replacing a variocam solenoid? Any other ideas before we dive in there? I'm sure I'd never get lucky enough for it to be just a dirty MAF or something simple. I did also just fill the tank yesterday, but I doubt that's a culprit. Finally, should I resist driving any further, to see if the codes (& flashing) return? I don't want to jump time. As always, I appreciate, very much, all of the help and follow up on this site!!

Ouch! Mercy. Though I would hope a good indy could do it for roughly 50-60% of that figure? Regardless, I wish you all the best in getting it back on the road.

Yuk, sorry to hear it, as that sounds painful. I hope there's a simple and cost effective solution for you. Keep us posted please!

Hi, not completely, as I haven't had much time for diagnosis lately. This is a winter truck for me, so will probably figure it out come spring when the cars come back out and the truck goes to bed (it drives fine, with no issue, so I haven't been sweating it too much, other than the annoying CE light). But anyway, based on all my findings, so far, I kind of have it narrowed down to the camshaft rotor (or phase wheel, as it's sometimes referred to), as Loren suggested above. It seems this wheel is easily bent when working in this area, and can cause the same error code (P0369). I'm hoping that's the case, as I'll otherwise be stumped. Please let me know if you solve it on your end, as I'll probably be looking to figure mine out in another month or so, if not before!

Thanks for the post. I think we've kind of eliminated those other possibilities. I would assume a bad battery would throw erratic codes, and not the same one every time. Plus the car starts, runs, and drives great - even after sitting for a few days. I did go through the process of accessing the battery to be sure (even disconnected it to reset it), and it seems fine. All the connections, etc are good. Thank you for the suggestions though!

Thanks Loren, I have not. Is this an easy check/replacement? Thank you!!

Hi all, I have a 2004 Cayenne V6, with 118K miles, that is repeatedly throwing the P0369 code for camshaft position sensor issue. We've replaced BOTH sensors, but are still getting the code, usually within 10 running minutes of erasing it. With both sensors being new, it's perplexing. The truck runs and drives great, with no noticeable noises or issues. I've seen a few cases in my research, where a faulty timing chain tensioner could cause this (or a stretched chain), but in all those cases the code was accompanied by a knock &/or poor performance. I could leave it, but I feel there has to be a reason the code is being thrown. I don't believe the new cam position sensors need calibrated? Any help, advice or suggestions from the knowledgeable community would be appreciated! Thank you in advance.

Hi, yes, I gave in, and asked my mechanic to make a house call (for better or worse, I'm a good customer). He, having a better understanding than I of the mechanics of the system, was able to stick his fingers down in, and move the the axle pivot in a direction that allowed the latch assembly to function. Took him all of 10 seconds. We then got the car to his shop, where he pulled the panel, and replaced the entire system. It's now tight as a drum, and has been functioning properly for over 6 months. Hope the passenger side doesn't act up, but at least we'd know what (& what not!) to do. I hope this helps in some way, and I appreciate all the feedback and info I've always gotten on this great site.

Hi, I have a 2006 997 C4S. It had the common floppy interior door handle issue, so I ordered a new door axle pivot mechanism. When it arrived, we determined it was the "updated" part, which requires an updated cable as well. Until we received the new style cable, we finagled a way to make them compatible with each other - or so I thought. To make a long story short, once I locked the car, the door will not open (after unlocking), from inside or out. Whether on the fob, or with the key in the door, you can attempt to unlock, and hear the lock mechanism functioning - and the window still drops the 1" or so, but no door open. Through all this, I've gotten fairly adept at removing the door panel, so I've done the best I can again, with the door closed, but of course the panel will not come all the way off. I can't seem to see or wiggle anything in there to make a difference. I just want to get the door open, so I can change the lock bowden cable, etc. Does anyone have any ideas how I can just open the door? Or will a locksmith be able to get it open for me? Thank you in advance, any input is GREATLY appreciated!!

The first one worked like a charm the first time. Thank you! And for what it's worth, blame my mis-directed original post on ignorance not neligence. Thanks again for the help & for all the work you all do to run this great site.

Hi, longtime subscriber and beneficiary of all the great info around here. Much appreciated. New battery today in my '97 986. In need of radio code. Becker cdr-210 SN: V5008747 Thanks again as always, and I hope I posted this in the right place!

Hi, longtime subscriber and beneficiary of all the great info around here. Much appreciated. New battery today in my '97 986. In need of radio code. Becker cdr-210 SN: V5008747 Thanks again as always, and I hope I posted this in the right place!

I was wondering the same thing - except on a (993) C4S coupe. You have some additional stabilizers in there which may interfere. The C4S coupe is (obviously) wider in back, but don't know if 19s will work??? Maybe someone can help us both :)