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WolfgangK

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Everything posted by WolfgangK

  1. Hi Mike, thanks for the hint, I posted it on the Becker Board also. In between the system stopped working again, but this time I used a commercial, original CD and not a copy of a CD. Disconnecting the battery for 15 mins did not change anything, so it seems that my dealer will see me tomorrow morning again.... Wolfgang
  2. Hi all, yesterday I picked up my new 987 but the fun did not last too long. The trouble started when I tried to run a copied CD in the CDR24 system. The CD was loaded and it ran. You could see 'TRACK1' on the display and you could hear music.... ... but somehow the system hung up (no, I don't think it's running MS Windows :P ). No control worked any more, all the buttons were dead. I couldn't change the volume, I couldn't turn it off, I couldn't get the CD out.... nothing. Turning the ignition on/off did not help. Ok, the dealer ran a onboard diagnosis and reset everything.... without success -> Turn the ignition on and the music plays, but no chance to stop it or switch to radio mode. The only way to reset the whole system was to unconnect the battery for a few minutes. After this and another reset of the errors it worked again... puh. - Did somebody experience the same problem? - Does the system always hang up when trying to play selfmade CDs? (the manual only says that eventually it cannot play copy-protected CDs). Wolfgang
  3. @ ronbonner: as I wrote earlier I have an IceLink in my Mini (price: 150€) and use the Aux-In in the 996 (Traffic Pro, price 9€!). Using the iPOD with the radio keys (IceLink) is not that much better than using the iPOD click wheel (Aux-In). You are limited to the 5 playlists (CD1-5) and you can access the others only through the 6th playlist (which is quite annoying in the Mini as some buttons of the radio (FF/FR) are double booked). Of course you can switch from the radio-mode to the original iPOD-mode, but why use an expensive IceLink then? The disadvantage when using the Aux-In is that there is no Power supply to the iPOD and you have to turn it off manually (otherwise the battery is flat when you return). BUT: If you have PCM I (or DFC's 2004 996) I think you can use the FM version of the IceLink: http://www.dension.com/icelink_fm.htm This seems to combine the best of both worlds: - it fits to any radio as it's connected only through the antenna plug - you get good quality (which is not always the case with the iTRIP transmitter) - it's legal in Europe (which is not the case with transmitters) - the iPOD gets power - it turns on/off with the radio - you can use the iPOD click wheel - it has a reasonable price - ... The only disadvantage I see is that you need to install the iPOD in a position where you can read the display.
  4. @ ronbonner: '... Does this mean that when the Ice Link eventually becomes available, ipods could replace the CD changer?...' Definitly. Why should you install such an old, mechanical and expensive device as a CD changer? I connected an iPOD with an IceLink in my Mini, in the 996 I use the AUX-In and for other cars I have an iTRIP FM Transmitter. All work without any problems... IMO an iPOD (or other mp3 player) is just great and I am sure that in none of my cars a CD changer will be needed any more.
  5. ... my 3.6l engine had an RMS failure at 12.000km, another one at 18.000 km and the engine was swapped for a brand new one back then. Just yesterday I found out that after another only 12.000 km it leaks again and I had to arrange another visit at the dealer. We'll see what the culprit is this time and who'll pay for it.... Sorry, I somehow have some doubts on the reliability of M96 engines. I plan(ned) to buy a Boxster for my wife later this year, but depending on the results of this new leakage I am not sure whether I can get back the confidence in these engines again. Wolfgang
  6. Hi Sandy, I think it's really easier to try a new relay then. I'll check this with the dealer tomorrow....
  7. Hi Sandy, the relais looks ok on a first glance and like new. The armature moves easily and the contacts aren't pitted. Nothing smoked, blackened, melted.... Do you know whether it can be operated 'manually' ? Could I supply 12V to the pins so that I can check is closing and opening? Should it work with Pin5 (=15) and Pin 7 (=31)? Well, I'm gonna buy a new one and then we'll see... :o) I must admitt that I am not fully convinced yet that this is the culprit, but I assume I won't find it out otherwise.
  8. Hi Loren and Sandy, thanks a lot for the hints! I checked the potentiometer again and (when using the right pins and the right setup of the multimeter :lightbulb: ) it shows exactly the values Sandy had: 30kOhm full CW 230 kOhm full CCW So it looks like this part works properly. Next I followed Lorens tip, looked for the relay (pos16), unplugged it and opened it.... Nothing looks obviously wrong... no black spots, nothing looks 'burned', the soldering looks fine.... Is there a seperate fuse for this relay? Can it be tested? The relay itself is also rather cheap (20€/25$ refering to my price list), so replacing it seems the easiest way to go. Greeting from Germany Wolfgang
  9. In my 996 MJ02 the intermittent wiper does not work properly. If I push the indicator stalk down, the wipers move one single 'round'. In this position the wipers should now be activated every few seconds, depending on the position of the intermittent wiper dial (a potentiometer). But nothing happens..... the wipers don't move again. I removed the potentiometer from the dash, unplugged the cable and checked the power supply. It seems that it's properly powered: When I push the indicator stalk down I get 12V between yellow and black. If I turn the lights on I have 12V between yellow and blue. So I think it cannot be the fuse or power supply to this potentiometer. Now I checked the potentiometer itself with an Ohmmeter. I can connect any combination of the 4 pins but it shows no resistance. But in a poti at least 2 pins should be conncted with a variable resistance.... - Did anybody experience a similar problem? - I assume the poti is faulty. Is this a common problem? The poti itself is rather cheap (~20 Euros/25$), but before I buy I new one I'd like to hear for other experiences. Wolfgang
  10. Hi Bavarian, I doubt that PAG will be able to fix this permanently. In this case it seems they solved the RMS problem, but now it seeps somewhere else... My engine was changed 10kkm ago and it's bone dry so far. Let's keep the fingers crossed. But the feelings remain mixed if I see those pix. Wolfgang
  11. Hi, in a german 911 Forum somebody posted very interesting pictures of the oil leaks in the 996/986 engines. Don't worry, you don't need to understand the text, the pix are meaningful enough: http://www.pff-online.de/wbb2/thread.php?threadid=2631014 They clearly show that it's not only the RMS, but different other places also where oil can/will leak. The author says that all the latest components are used (i.e. RMS and bolts). Interestingly enough the RMS itself is leakproof..... Wolfgang
  12. Loren is right, the risk is cross-threading. I had this problem also with the lower seat belt screw and I messed it up :angry: Everything has to be perfectly aligned before you try to screw it in.. Wolfgang
  13. Hi Doug, I don't think that the RollBar you are talking about is the same one Loren is refering to. If I understood this correctly you want to install the Tequipment part which is available with or without the cross-member. If this is the case you can find a rather good description here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=695 The installation procedure should be the same for both bars. Regards Wolfgang
  14. ... does a backfire produce a metallic "thunk"? I had a similar problem when I had a Boxster and for almost a year nobody found the culprit. In the end it was a motor mount where the rubber disintegrated from the metal. Under certain conditions it was a metal-metal contact which caused some noise. Very hard to find, as it comes and goes. I even was in Zuffenhausen on the factory 'bump road'. Maybe worth a look? Regards Wolfgang
  15. ...I already took out the two screws, but the mirror did not come off.... As far as I know there are three screws behind the interior triangle, not only two.... Regards Wolfgang
  16. Hmmm, do I understand this right: you can download the full manuals (618MB) or get a CD for just 20 bucks? I thought the manuals are very expensive.... Did somebody try this? Is this really the full set of Workshop Manuals? This sounds too good to be true. Regards Wolfgang
  17. Hi Tom, I ordered 996 505 555 01 The part is called 'spoiler' and belongs to the Tequipment Carrera Aero Kit (not the Cup (aka GT3) Aero Kit). Wolfgang
  18. I was also curious about this Aerokit lip for the standard bumper, but nobody had a picture or so available. I went to my dealer a few weeks ago, but he also has never seen it before. Since the price was reasonable (about 60$ here in Germany) I ordered it: The lip itself is a 2 feet long piece of black plastic as TD in DC describes. It's about 1-1.5 inch deep. You fix it at the standard >MY02 bumper about 4 inches behind the front 'edge' by clipping it into existing holes (better: slots). If you look under your car you'll easily see the mounting holes, so you can imagine of what I speak. - It is definitly not the GT3 lip (neither the old one nor the new one) - You hardly see it after it's installed because it's not sticking out from the bumper, but hidden under it. - It's (to Porsche standards) cheap, but IMHO still not worth the investment. So if somebody finds a nicer, better solution (TomSch, when do you finally install yours on your Targa? :D ) I am very interested in seeing some pix. Wolfgang PS: there is one sold at ebay (Germany) and the guy says it fits to 996/2. Anybody installed this? Is that a Porsche part?
  19. Thorsten, are you sure it's coming from the roof? I also had such a noise and in the end it was the rear side windows. Maybe you want to try this also. Just press against the window if the sound appears again. I could not imagine that a glass window in a rubber seal makes tickling noises, but there seems to be even a TSB about this.... Regards Wolfgang
  20. Hi Raymond, you need the skirts themselfes (pos26), the aluminum strips (pos28), the tapping screws and u-clamps (pos23 and 25). I did neither use the spacer (pos7) nor the adhesive foil (pos 24) and it worked fine. The product numbers and the quantity can be seen in the parts list. But if I were you I would just order the complete set. Discard the screws and use double sided tape instead and you have all you need (don't forget some silicon sealant/glue). Regards Wolfgang PS: the aluminium panel is fixed at the rocker panel a few cm just below the lower door lip. It's a kind of Z-profile where the upper edge of the plastik sill is then hung in. The lower part is then screwed from below the car with the u-clamps (holes already exist).
  21. Hey Raymond, I also installed the side skirts (the older version), but I did not want to drill holes for the screws. Therefore I purchased some double sided tape from 3M for this purpose and glued the aluminium strips (which hold the plastic skirt) in place. This allows me to remove it in case I don't like them any more. Regards Wolfgang
  22. Hi ZX7R, thanks a lot, that could be the one..... (and it looks great!) I think your car has the GT3 bumper, I'll check whether the part numbers of the lips are the same. I plan to fit it to the stock bumper, but that seems to be quite exotic.... This combination is sold only on the facelifted 996 with the 'Carrera' rear wing. As soon as you use the GT3 wing you also get the new front bumper. Wolfgang
  23. ... to bring this thread up a bit.... :D I checked again the part numbers: the picture Loren posted shows the 'old' GT3 front splitter which is different to the one I am looking for. The 'Tequipment Carrera Aero Kit' for the facelifted 996 includes only a handful of parts: the rear wing, some installation material and the front spoiler. Nobody ever installed it? No pix available? Refering to my actual price list this 'spoiler' (part# 996 505 555 01) only costs 40€ (~50$) which would be a very cheap upgrade.
  24. Hi All, I searched again the forum and found an older thread discussing this topic: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=2232&hl= Loren postet a pic of his '99 C2 (looks great!), but my car doesn't have the GT3 front and it's a facelift 2002 model. So a picture of the facelifted car with stock bumper and the lip would be great... Wolfgang
  25. Hi C4S Surgeon, did you install it on the C4S or on a C2? And what MY? Wolfgang
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