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Faceman

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Everything posted by Faceman

  1. Faceman
    Come On!! Are you serious? Im searching on here trying to figure out why I have trans fluid leaking because I just changed my coolant pipes preemptively and I found this. Never had a tranny fluid problem before so I wasn't prepared for this. Im about ready to call it quits with this truck... When I fix this leak I think my next stop is Carmax.
  2. Faceman
    I was concerned about my engine temp last year when I changed the T piece and found here in the forums that the Turbo will operate between 200-220F with the fans kicking on around 220F. When the AC is on it stays cooler, steady around 200F. Also, I read somewhere in the forums that the S may not have the T fitting. Thanks for the advice about the pipes. I will order them.
  3. Faceman
    1 year later.... back under the hood. My truck temp was about 220 and I went to pass a few cars on the left and once the car down shifted I lost my coolant. Not as big a gush as Im used to but it definitely ran out. Got it home, took off the intake, no noticable cracks in the plastic pipes (keep in mind that when my pipes burts in 07 the dealer claims that the aluminums ones didnt exist yet so they were replaced with plastic -Only a matter of time). I looked at the T-pipe I replaced and it had signs of water leakage and build-up but not a major break or crack. I took it off and its real soft, to the point where you can scratch a groove in it with your finger nail and the ridges for the hose connections are a bit smooth. Im going to replace it but I am afraid that it may not be the main source of my problem. My thoughts are maybe pressure from the high RPMS and the soft, smooth ridges allowed coolant to push past the fittings and clamps??? Is there any way I could have a hairline crack in the plastic pipes that I dont see or cant feel? I should just swap the plastic for the aluminum but I dont like the idea of breaking functional parts. Is there any way I can change this plastic T-pipe with an aluminum one from Home Depot or a plumbling store or will it get too hot for the rubber hoses? Thanks in advance for your thoughts guys! F-
  4. Faceman
    It was my hose. Oil seems to build up in there over time. I just replaced the o-ring, the old one was a bit worn.
  5. Faceman
    Hey pakimunda101! Welcome! Hopefully you dont find yourself needing this site as much as many of us but thank God for the help here. Most of the issues you will have with your Cayenne will be things you can do on your own. Pretty much anything you need will be somewhere on the site. Enjoy!
  6. Faceman
    Any insights or updates to this thread?? Im having this problem now. It doesnt do it every time I turn, but when it does happen it doesnt matter how sharp or shallow a turn and then suddenly something seems to "pop" back in place and its fine again.. It happens maybe twice a week and its only my front passenger side wheel doing it. I just had my lower control arms replaced last week, newer front tires at full psi. I will get under there tomorrow if possible to check my tie rods, but until then any input would be great because it really feels like a CV joint and I really really dont wanna go thru that right now. Thanks- PS got a call from one of the lawyers handling the coolant pipe lawsuit.. Good Stuff :thankyou:
  7. Faceman
    Nevermind.. All I needed were some channel locks and a steady tug/twist..
  8. Faceman
    Can someone tell me how to remove this hose.. Its the 7L5-611-931 G also known as 955-355-579-51 I cant figure out how to disconnect it at the hose just before it enters the fire wall.. There is a fatter plastic piece with a rubber washer about 1/8 inch from bottom where it connects.. Thanks!!
  9. Faceman
    948-106-035-51 and 955-106-323-50 They are both T pieces in the same location but different. The one that usually breaks is the one that has the non-removable rubber hoses and metal clamps attached to it, the other is just a plastic T that you connect to. I forget which of the 2 part #s above is the one that makes us look bad on the road but most people say you may as well replace them both while you are back there. Important to know.. I made the mistake of topping off my coolant with 50-50 "universal" mix and now I have a cracked reservoir.. I dont know if thats why it cracked but I have to replace it anyway and flush the system. Mixing the coolant creates little jello clumps.. And Porsche wants $43 a gallon for their pink stuff :censored: By the way, I couldnt see the picture above either
  10. Faceman
    Ive got a slight coolant leak on the passenger side, just within the wheel well, that Im trying to track down without stripping things apart. Its not coming from the center area where the water pump is. Its not coming from the back of the motor, in fact, it doesnt even seem to be dripping on to the under pan. I noticed a small amount of wetness around the base of the coolant tank (where the coolant is poured). Are the tanks known to get cracks or is there a hose that may be loosly attached to it? Its too dark and cold out for me to whip out the sockets so Im hoping some of you have an idea so I can get to it tomorrow or the weekend. Thanks!!
  11. Faceman
    My passenger side floor, front and back, gets wet as described but only when it rains. Is this the same issue? Is the water getting in from above or splashing up from below. Please help, its smells horrible. Is the drain along the bottom on the side?? Thanks.
  12. Faceman
    Haven't curbed it. I definitely feel it in the steering wheel but mostly the pedals and floor of the drivers seat. The rear tires are pretty worn. Its almost like a subtle grinding with no noise. Once I get above 20mph it gets buried by the normal vibrations of the car.
  13. Faceman
    So I had my drive shaft replaced about 60K miles ago and new tires about 12K miles ago, but I just started noticing a subtle vibration in the floor around 10mph. Its really aggravating and I want to catch it before it becomes worse. I know I need my lower control arm bushings replaced. Is this just a vibration that Im stuck with, as Ive seen n a few posts, or is this thing on its way out again?? Thanks Again!
  14. Faceman
    Thank you... Its about time I become a contributing member.
  15. Faceman
    I think I have a loose hose or something.. Can someone tell me what is at the front of the motor at the bottom on the drivers side that could cause a drip? I noticed it while changing my belt. Thanks!
  16. Faceman
    Just to add to this. It will say "Oil level monitoring failure" So I assume its the sensor but Ive been wrong here before.
  17. Faceman
    Hi Folks, Ive tried searching for this without much luck. My Oil temp gauge stops working occassionally or jumps up into the red as if its shorting out or maybe the sensor is on its way out.. What do I need to replace? Where is it? Any ideas? Thanks in advance!!!
  18. Faceman
    Has anyone else run into this problem? Any suggestions? Mine just started this today..
  19. Faceman
    Also, in park, the rpms are at 2000. This is obviously the reason for the stiff brakes. Any ideas as to what making the idle so high?
  20. Faceman
    I just finished changing my coolant hoses and reinstalled the intake. Went for a test drive and my brakes are extremely stiff and hardly stop. My PSM faulty light came on and also the check engine light. Is there a hose I missed or pinched or a plug not plugged in? Please help. Frusterated.
  21. Faceman
    A few painful hours, a flashlight, a long pair of angled needle nose pliers, a knife, a small flat head, a long flat head and several busted/ scraped up knuckles and I finally got the bottom hose to the T-pipe out. The major problem I had was the hose had melted to the pipe so even with the clamp removed it wouldnt come off. So I had to slice and tear and twist and poke at it for quite a bit of time to loosen it. As promised, here is a picture of both T's and their respective rubber hoses. My leak occured when the bottom T broke off of the hose to the left. The hose on the bottom right broke as I was removing it. If you're going to do this yourself, be patient and persistent, and patient and patient. Its going to be a real B*#ch to get that bottom hose back on securely.
  22. Faceman
  23. Faceman
    Those pics kinda confused me.. I dont think that white breather pipe is the pipe causing the problem. Here are a couple quick shots of mine. I will post a better one as soon as I get the lil :censored: out. One pic shows the plastic bracket that holds the 3 top coolant pipes at the back of the motor. Notice the right side of the bracket with the part #s on it. Just behind that area, connected to the rubber hose are the black plastic T pipes that split the hose in two. My crack is pretty obvious in the next photo. Thx!
  24. Faceman
    Plastic pipes were reinstalled cause I got shafted. Paid A LOT of money too.. They sold me on the "oh we have to remove the front end of your car, take out the motor, take things apart to discover what the problem is." As if the pipes and coolant system didn't have well known issues. ...Unless they changed the pipes that go down the back of the motor, those are aluminum, but I doubt it. I can't find the invoice to check, Ill keep looking. Anyway, Yes, it is the plastic Y piece that is just behind the 3 pipes connected to the one closest to the driver side. Huge crack. Any upgrades to this piece? I haven't checked that link above yet but will now. Thanks
  25. Faceman
    If it mounts up you may notice a small difference in the comfort of your ride -driving over bumps and maybe cornering a bit. Passengers probably wont notice it but I feel almost everything after Ive had a car for a while. Also, it doesnt snow where I am and it hardly rains. That could be a big deal.
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