Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
I cut plumbing 20mil pipe wrap tape to size and taped on the cleaned roof. Then dab clear caulk where bolt will enter roof.
The grab handle area got wet for me too. Once roof rail removed, I found the gasket above wet area was giving up. Replaced and it's good now.
voodoocat replied to AZat's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)I keep a length of 1/2" (1.3cm) ID vacuum or heater hose and hose clamps around. I slip it over vacuum line cracks. The plastic vacuum line will eventually crack as the car ages.
Hello, The rubber driveshaft support mount went out on me during travelling. I thought the tire was going major out of balance. Anyway I considered to buy $300+ replacement support, but did this: It is a hack, but the purpose of support mount is to absorb vibration and the heater hose can do that fine. It does not rotate, put significant load, etc. I also needed to repair right away and not wait for parts to arrive. The culprit is on rear driveshaft. I used: (it really is $2 and 2 hours of time) 9 pcs 5/8" ID heater hose (3/4"OD), $2, 1.5~2" long pieces. (1" as in the Utube is just enough length, give a little extra) 14pcs 8" ziptie wire cutter to cut the ziptie 2L plastic bottle; cut a piece and wrap around shaft+bearing to help hoses slide it in, and remove after. don't use 500ml drink bottles, too thin and will rip upon removal. Use hand sanitizer to lube up to ease install onto bearing. They evaporate and will contact tightly to bracket and bearing. Several razor blade/utility knife to cut away remaining rubber mount. Replace frequently, sharp blades work much better. Its the most time consuming. Dont have to be perfect just cut off most of old rubber. Wear mechanics glove to prevent injuring hands. 13mm + 16mm and impact driver or rachet if not lazy eye protection someone on Utube suggested to cut 45 degree on end to ease install onto bearing. I don't suggest it, reduces surface area, and not necessary if using 2L plastic piece to guide hoses onto bearing. Install the hose assembly inside bracket, then slide it onto bearing.
Thank you for the information. I also got 1217, lifted the seat and found it already had the recall work done. The crimp looked pretty solid, but I soldered the wires anyway, and the problem went away after resetting with Durametric. It is possible to make the repair without removing the seat entirely; remove front 2 bolts, remove plastic cover on rear rails, and lift up the seat. It's a narrow reach to the black and blue wires but doable. Be careful when removing the aluminum triple square bolts. If you strip them, it'll be a bad day.
Hi, how difficult is it to replace front crossmember? My shop says the engine need to be pulled, but can i use a hoist or suspend over struts while swapping the crossmember? I find that the crossmember is about $90, don't want to pull an engine to replace $90 part.. Loren (or someone) can you post the dwg of crossmember components? Thank you.
My 04TT had P0021 also, replaced sensor and the code went away for me. Sensor is at rear of valve head cover, by the fuel rail, held with one torx screw. Recommend a genuine part, I first got cheaper beck/arnley but it was defective and missing the O ring. It is a Hall effect sensor, cannot test if the part is good or bad with a tester. Be careful not to drop the screw as it is a tight access.
voodoocat replied to PKN's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)FYI, I didn't waste my money on Beru plugs, used NGK Iridium BKR6EIX. 4 years and 40000 miles later, still running strong, not a single misfire. I do recommend genuine coil packs, knockoff coils have inferior boot rubber that hardens, get brittle and misfires.
Oil leak at driver side inter cooler pipe is common. There are other threads on the topic. A new (green) gasket will fix the leak. I replaced both driver and passenger side gaskets since it's 8-9 years old. Loosen the locking clip ring on the outer pipe and the inner pipe will come out. Access to passenger side pipes is easier. Unlike O ring, these silicone gaskets will fit in much easier.
voodoocat replied to blucubic's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)you should change 2 liftgate + 2 glass hatch shocks
Commenting on old thread about Fumoto valve. Plug#1: F-104 + ADP-104. It will contact the plastic skid guard. Plug#2: F104N + ADP-104 You need to grind off the hex edges on ADP-104 so it can fully seat into the recess.
I reset it last night following instruction on other forum. Ign off press odo reset (0.0) on dash, keep pressing, turn on ign, no need to start car "Service reset" on screen press reset on wiper stalk. i tried Durametric, they have the service reset option but it didn't work for me.
Please support Durametric. It is well worth the price. Don't support Chinese thieves.
If you are talking about the coolant T behind/below firewall leading to the turbos, I was able to blind reach from top, basically lay on top of engine and stick my arm in there. From bottom, you can pick and poke the with a stick but can't grasp it. Besides, you need to further push up to remove them. The hose that feeds driver side turbo is reachable from bottom. You need to get a cable operated hose clamp opener. I got craftsman tool, but it opens barely not enough to loosen the clamp, get a better one. When you remove the T, actually 2 T's connected making an H, observe the hose and T orientation and pre assemble the new units identically. And don't forget to pre install the bands (!)
That's what happened to me, both motors disintegrated internally. The fan vanes have very tight tolerance. I think the valve will eventually give out, stuck open and exhaust back flows to the fan. Then, your brand new fan might break again. Or valve might stick close, overloading the 40A motor. Motors are about 250'each, valve is 120 each. I recommend to change all 4. Then no worries about it. I was chasing CEL for over a month until I replaced all 4, resetting and coming back on again. I think a broken piece jammed my valve open. You should clear the connecting hose so nothing is stuck in there.