Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

cab713

Contributing Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    68

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by cab713

  1. cab713
    One of my best friends since elementary school just left for a 3 week trip out of the country, and I've finally gotten the chance to clean up his 944. The paint is a bit flat, the interior needs a good cleaning, and there are several odds and ends that need attention. Looking for some direction on where to source the parts (used is acceptible). rear view mirror - mount is on window, but metal arm that fit into in is broken. it's been epoxied before so a replacement is in order steering wheel - wrap at the top of the 3 spoke has come undone. is it better to have it repaired or replaced? know anyone in atlanta, ga to repair? rough idle - really rough idle at start when cold. smooths out after a few minutes. warm start idle is still rough for a few minutes, but not as rough as cold start. (never goes away completely) any advice and guidance is greatly appreciated!
  2. cab713
    I've just discovered a very small coolant leak at the bottom of the engine just below what I believe is the pulley for the water pump. When parked it leaves about a dime size puddle on the ground after a night. When I check it, there is never more than a single drop hanging from the bolt just below the pulley at the lowest point. Any ideas as to what the problem/solution would be? I did just have the serpentine belt changed a short while ago. 1999 996 C2 with 36,000 miles
  3. cab713
    I've searched for AOS issues. The replacement DIY seems to show oil in the upper intakes that may be similar, but I have no white smoke at start or rough idle. I'll start with the intake plenums as that is the only place I can see grime right now. The oil filler tube seems to be totally clean from what I can see. I'll confirm while getting after the intake plenums. Thanks!
  4. cab713
    Does anyone know what is causing the oily grime on the hose clamps just behind the throttle body on my 99 996 C2? It's on both sides nearest the boot but not any farther back. There is much more on the drivers side. My neighbor does have a spec of this on the drive side clamp of his 99 996 C2, but no where near as much as mine. This photo was shot looking over the oil filler hose and dip stick.
  5. cab713
    Can anyone confirm that the 02-05 PSE mufflers will fit a 99 996 C2? They would be coming from an 03 996 C2. Part Number PSE (Porsche Sport Exhaust) mufflers #996-111-131-71 and #996-111-132-71 Thanks,
  6. cab713
    It's been a few months since discovery and the leak is very minor. Is there a DIY for the cam solenoid seals? Perhaps with a part number? I've done some searches, but no luck.
  7. cab713
    I've not resolved the issue. The car goes in this week for a clutch issue and while there, I'll have them troubleshoot.
  8. cab713
    Hi All, I've been doing some searches regarding the handling of my 99 C2 Coupe with 35,000 miles. I've owned it for 6+ years now, and I'm aware that our cars do tend to feel "floaty" when running highway speeds. While I've grown accustom to this feeling, I believe I have an actual issue that could/should be resolved. I'm not getting the response from the steering wheel that I feel I should. When traveling on the highway at any speed the steering is a bit loose. I can wiggle the wheel left to right a bit and there's no significant response from the car. Don't get me wrong, if I turn the wheel with what I'd consider normal effort, I get the correct response. The car also handles corners well and the input feels correct and tracks true. What I'm wondering is if there is something worn, or something I can modify to get a "on rails" feel. I owned a BMW 325i with suspension upgraded by the prior owner. That car would change direction if you sneezed with your hand on the steering wheel. I'd like to get that feel out of this one. I have US spec suspension. I cannot lower the ride height based on my driveway clearance. I also do a good deal of city driving on terrible roads and a firmer ride is not what I'm looking for. Just simply to improve the responds of the steering to driver input. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
  9. cab713
    I cleaned and scrubbed the offending area once the oil change was complete. Only a short drive today, but nothing there upon my return. I'll do a longer drive tomorrow and see if anything shows up. I've also found mention of motor mounts loosing oil. I need to find the DIY on that, but in all my searches today, the only leak that almost matches mine perfectly turned out to be the hydraulics for a cabriolet top. Mixed emotions when you're hoping a suggestion is wrong, but turns out to be correct and doesn't help your problem as well.
  10. cab713
    Thanks! 3. RMS was replace just over a year ago at 30,700 miles with a new clutch. Odometer just turned 35,000 so I hope that's not it. From what I read here, RMS would dead center of the engine. This is the drivers side. You can see it just behind the wheel well. 4. I'll do some searches for IMS, but the car runs perfectly from what I can tell. Smooth and fast with plenty of power. I will also explore 1 & 2. cab
  11. cab713
    Changed the oil in my 1999 996 C2 yesterday. In jacking up the car, I discovered a good deal of grimy oil caked to the drivers side of the engine. The oil level was a bit low, but there are no drops in the garage bay so I don't know how long it's been like this. Any idea as to what is going on here? Thanks, Chris edit: rotated the images to the proper orientation.
  12. cab713
    I replaced them with new ones. I followed the directions on pumping the brakes several times for each brake after the new rotor and pads were installed. I also pumped the brakes several times prior to my test drive. Since I put the vibration dampers in prior to the pads, I assumed that they would stick after the first few pumps. I started thinking about this after I got back and posted. Wondered if they needed a bit more encouragement to stick. I went back out just now and pumped them about 6-8 times. Pulled down my driveway stopping several times. Pumped them 7-8 more times prior to my next drive around the block and there is no squeak now. I do have a sound when I apply the brakes that could be the sound of the rotors and pads trying to seat or hydraulics. It's a slight whirring sound that starts midway through slow speed braking (coming to a stop) and stops once I come to a full stop. I check my fluid levels and all is good there. I didn't touch the bleeder valves during the whole process so I don't think there is air in the lines. I have a feeling the sound will go away during the seating 125 miles of driving. I'll post back if/when it does. Thanks Loren!
  13. cab713
    Just completed front pads and rotors. The DIY and link to bombay digital helped a ton. I just drove the car around the block and have a squeak at low speed that goes away when pressure is applied to the brakes. Any idea as to what I can do?
  14. cab713
    I was using a screwdriver prior to posting this, but it seemed like I was using more force than would be good for the batwing or switches. You are correct on the for spots that lock the switch into place. I resorted to using a small current tester I had. It has two prongs about double the diameter of toothpicks. I was able to push them down into one side without too much "lift" on the plastic housing. Once they were as far down as possible, I gently pushed on the switch face and that side popped out. I then just repeated on the other side. Thanks for the help.
  15. cab713
    That's what I'm getting from the description. I don't think the 997 kit is about shortening the throw. I think the focus is on the "feel" of a 997 shift being better than the 996. Since I'm looking to shorten the throw it sounds like the B&M would be the best choice. Any other feedback on the B&M would be welcome.
  16. cab713
    I'm trying to swap out my batwing. It's a two hole batwing that holds the seat heater switches. The switches push into place and lock into position at the front face. Simple to install, but I don't see an easy way to remove the switch where I'm not putting serious pressure on the plastic holding them in place. Is there a safe way to do this?
  17. cab713
    That was the shifter I was looking at a while back. I agree the throw needs to be a bit shorter. I'm just wondering if the 997 Shift Console Upgrade would shorten the throw enough? It's cheaper and is direct fit which would be nice. (I believe you have to break a minor plastic piece when installing the B&M. short shifter) I just don't want to do the mod twice.
  18. cab713
    I noticed that suncoast offers the 997 Shift Console Upgrade. I was considering adding the B&M short shifter to my 99 996 C2 Coupe. Has anyone tried the 997 kit? I get the impression that it isn't quite as short a throw as the B&M, but that could just be unclear in the product description. Any feedback would be great! cab
  19. cab713
    I appreciate all the feedback. I was really just looking for something basic and straight forward. While I've done some minor repairs to the Porsche and my motorcycles recently, I would like to know more and have a handy reference.
  20. cab713
    I've search Amazon, and this forum to see if this has changed. Any one know of a service/repair manual like Haynes for the 996?
  21. cab713
    I think I have the same issue with my passenger side window. Up or down, it sounds like gravel has been placed in the track. Can anyone confirm this is a window regulator issue? 1999 996 C2.
  22. cab713
    Thanks to all that offered suggestions for this problem. It turned out to be the battery. While it had a good charge it apparently did have a bad cell. Also, for anyone else that has a similar problem, when I attempted a jump start it pushed the volts up to 13.5, but this didn't allow me to start the car. Bought a new Bosch battery at Pep Boys. Online coupon for $10 off made it $79.99. Thanks again!
  23. cab713
    The only thing that's been brought up other than a faulty switch or fuse is the battery not passing the correct voltage. Since attempting a jump pushed the volts up into the 13.5 range and nothing happened, how likely is it that the battery is the problem?
  24. cab713
    Well I suppose the list just got bigger. I did have an issue with the alarm control unit that died (996-618-262-03)...car made no sound. Replaced under warranty. I just tried setting off the alarm. Rolled down the window, locked the car, stuck my hand inside, alarm went off. Car locks properly, radio works, lights come on, gauges all register.
  25. cab713
    If I recall correctly, the switch on the left side of the clutch peddal is the kill switch to start the car, the switch to the right of the clutch pedal is for the cruise controll. Corect me if I'm wrong. After by-passing the switch/es, did the car start? I have a wires on the left side and wires above the pedal. I originally bypassed the left side thinking there was only one. When I got down lower I saw the other switch. It looks more like the correct one since it seems to wire directly to button that is released when the clutch is depressed. The car did nothing regardless of which one was bypassed.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.