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Everything posted by Beninki

  1. Reviving an old thread here. My power liftgate gradually sags after opening. Does anyone have a diagram of the parts for the power liftgate? I looked in PET, but it doesn't show the system in it's entirety, only the power part or the non-powered system. I suspect that the hydraulic motor and piston ( which is on the driver's side) acts as a helper to the primary lifting struts... I have no noise from the hydraulic motor and I am hoping that the primary struts are just worn out. Anyone have experience with this? Incidentally, I am not throwing any codes on the Durametric. Cheers, TomF
  2. Thanks for your reply. Yes, if you wouldn't mind digging for it, that would be great. I need to be able to tell the dealer or indy just where to look. Best, Tom
  3. This is a cross-post for the Panmera forum as there is very little activity over there... I am in the hunt for a Panamera Turbo and I am wondering if there is a way to read from the ECU the number of launch control events that have occured. I would like to find a vehicle that has had none at all if possible. Can the dealer read this or is it not even recorded? I know that there is a record of the number of launches on Mercedes launch-controlled vehicles. TIA Cheers, Tom F
  4. I am in the hunt for a Panamera Turbo and I am wondering if there is a way to read from the ECU the number of launch control events that have occured. I would like to find a vehicle that has had none at all if possible. Can the dealer read this or is it not even recorded? I know that there is a record of the number of launches on Mercedes launch-controlled vehicles. TIA Cheers, Tom F
  5. Thanks. I will check for the code again today and see what comes up. IIRC, if the sensor goes bad, the CEL will come on and that hasn't happened. Cheers, TomF
  6. Trying again. Forum was having issues this morning...triple posting and no pic... Anyway, this is the error code that I got this morning... any thoughts? Cheers, TomF
  7. Thanks all. I just had to use the procedure above and was able to push over the solenoid. It is really hard to see, and it requires the screwdriver to be very small with at least 3" inches of length. Go in from the center into the u-shaped slot and then move the solenoid shaft towards the passenger side. Now that I have done it once, I could do it again in 30 seconds. Cheers, TomF
  8. I replaced my center bearing with the Vertex solution. About 90 mins to do, including repacking the bearing and my guibo and shaft looked new. I am very impressed with the engineering. This was at 67k miles on my '08 CTT. Nearly 3k later and I have no complaints at all. The CTTs seem to fail earlier because of the increased loads on the drivetrain. Cheers, TomF
  9. Resurrecting an older thread here. Keep in mind that the many of the bluetooth mObridge units can also stream audio via BT. Just because there is no cable doesn't mean you don't have one installed. Turn on your BT phone and see if a mObridge unit comes up as discoverable. Cheers, TomF
  10. Does anyone know if this procedure can be used on an '08 Turbo as well? Great write-up BTW! Cheers, TomF
  11. Thanks for this! That is exactly what I need. The part is only about $5 in Germany, but pricey here... Best, Tom
  12. Hello all, I have installed a Mobdridge unit in my 08 CTT and I am in need of a Tyco Type Simple Optical Loop or loopback to bypass the CD changer. I am looking to get one locally in the US and not have to deal with having it shipped from the EU. Dennison has them in their online store, but it will take a long time to arrive from Germany. Any thoughts? Thanks for your help! Best, TomF Seattle
  13. Hello all, I am looking for a PCM 2.1 wiring diagram showing where each of the wires from the rear of the unit go. I have installed a Mobridge Bluetooth, etc... and would like to tap into my existing OEM handsfree mics (4!) I have run multiple searches here and over on Rennlist as well as other relevant places, but no luck! Thanks in advance! Best, TomF
  14. I haven't had the chance yet. I am going to try to get to it soon. The oil on the dipstick is perfectly clean, but I know that is not a good indicator of the condition of the rest of the oil.
  15. Thanks for the comments. The strange thing is that the car isn't running hot. I assume that with a cracked head, you would have overheating issues.
  16. Re-checked all the lines last night. Everything is as it should be. I am going to drain the oil this evening and see what is up. The oil cooler is of course suspect as is a cracked head. Since my car is a MY2000 and they are notorious for bad heads, I am prepared for the worst.
  17. I was able to change out my Failing AOS on my 2000 C4 Tip Cab with the help of an amalgam of the various great DIYs here and on Rennlist. I just drove the car 50 miles or so, with no overheating or other issues. Also, no more smoke on accelleration. I then went to check my fluids and discovered a serious amount of oil in the coolant reservoir. It looks like a milkshake... It seems suspect that it happened at the same time as the AOS replacement. Is there any chance that in my tired state that I reversed the two small hoses on the AOS? Would that even make a difference? What if I received a defective AOS from Porsche? There was no sign of any oil in the reservoir previously. I have been trying to find a diagram of the internals of an AOS and the hose connections, but haven't had any luck. Any thoughts would be appreciated. I would thank you in advance for assuming that it is something other than intermix and not jumping to conclusions. Thanks! Best, Tom
  18. As stated before, it could be your AOS. I just changed mine out after having the same sypmptoms that you were having. Actually, the bellows on the AOS was leaking oil as well. The top connection to the AOS was leaking coolant at a steady rate. Now the car idles great and no more coolant on the floor. Check out my post on Rennlist.
  19. Did you mean "lower the engine?" Lowering it to the bottom of the threads make access to the AOS possible from above.
  20. At 80k, I can guarantee that your shocks are gone or on their way out. For my money, I would definitely replace them and then decide what you want to do. Keep in mind, you should quantify what suspension you have first. If you have an aftermarket set of springs, etc... and they are not matched properly, your ride will be more than harsh. Take the car in to a reputable Porsche suspension independent and get them to inspect it for you. Then decide how to proceed. These cars aren't for everyone, but in my experience, rarely does someone not like them unless there are issues with the car.
  21. Thanks. I've been thinking about that. By dampers do you mean shocks? If so, what brand is good for comfort but keeps the awesome performance? I have a c4. Also, is there a way to tell if it needs replacement? Yes, by dampers I mean shocks. If you have more than 60-70k miles on your car, the shocks are gone or on their way out. Most drivers don't notice the gradual degradation of the ride quality. I would go with Bilstein HDs, which can be purchased for under $900 a set. The "sport" shocks by Bilstein are pretty harsh for most street applications. Search is your friend on this one, there are many threads about shock replacement. I hope this helps.
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