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Everything posted by Serg

  1. This may be silly but, what was the condition of the bolt? Was there oil on it, brake dust, tranny fluid. If there is a lack of such, maybe part of suspension on front end? edit: last thought (it actually looks like a case bolt from a motorbike to me) ... the color. Aren't most bolt on the engine a silver tone? So where are black bolts found?
  2. Well the Key fob/blade came from "keys-in-the-post" which many on here have used and said worked out for them.... so, idk. Think I will get it fixed, get it back, then write a letter and see what happens.
  3. I thought I would reply to this topic with (what I think is a plausible but highly suspect) resolution: After taking the car to the dealership and explaining what I had done and what I suspected the problem to be, they had the car for 3 days. On the 3rd day they contacted me to confirm what I originally told them. That I suspected that the signal between the pill and the ignition was not talking place. I had provided them a new fob and blade that I had ordered from an outfit in the UK (members here had stated confirmation of the validity of key blades and fobs from them as opera
  4. Well I tested with a multi meter at the "+" post and at the nut on the starter where the cable that comes from the Alt; there was only a .1v drop from the reading at the battery terminals. The only thing that I can think of is the pill in the key is not being read. Have I missed anything? Thank you every one for your help. BTW: I did peal back some of the sheath off of the cable at the "+" (where i could) and at the connection at the starter...didn't see any corrosion.
  5. DBJoe996: Thank you for your help. I will take a look this evening. Hopefully, this is the culprit and I can cancel the trip to the dealership and fix it myself. If so, next time out west, beer is on me.
  6. DBJoe996: You may have a point from the more I read and from JFP's original post; it could be that what I am hearing is the solenoid but due to restriction in the current the Bendix does not kick in. With that said, can you tell me where the main junction box is in the engine bay? Is this were the Y cable is connected up to the battery. I found a post, but it was a 997, that identified the location as being the right side of the tranny housing for the connection point of the Y cable, yet from your indication of "engine bay" I suspect a different location on the 996.
  7. Judgejon: battery posts are clear and clean as well as the cable connections thereto. Thx DBJoe996: New battery after 4 years and old battery was just used up as indicated by testing; replaced with same battery as previous. The Starter was not over heated, this was on a relatively cold, the starter was bench tested and operated as it should repeatedly. When in car and ignition is engage the starter does not crank at all but I do hear the hum of electrical current. The electrical part of the ignition switch was replaced. Thx. So to check for corrosion; is the correc
  8. JFP, While electrical has never been my game, I did visually inspect the Alt/Starter cable when I pulled the starter and there was no corrosion, but I do understand your point about "internal". As to the "ground" cable in the rear passenger wheel well; I did confirm good contact. If I could impose, could you please identify any specific locations to check and (I know this gives away my level of ignorance) the methodology? Thank you for taking the time for the original reply. Serg
  9. How long ago was the AOS installed? It is my understanding is there is a little bit of residual that remains for a short time after.
  10. 1999 Porsche 996 Cabriolet automatic. Wife drove car to market and when came out tried to start; she turned it over a couple of time with no engagement of start or sound, then it started right up. When I got home same day I attempted to turn car over; two unsuccessful tries then it start normally. I tried again and nothing since. When turning key, there is no hesitation in key movement and no play. All dash lights come on EXCEPT the check engine light. I just replaced battery 3 weeks prior and have had it checked I had starter bench te
  11. Once again thank you. Will be back in couple of weeks and now have a project to come home to
  12. Thank you Kbrandsma, Yes, there was wire and plug in the door, that I plugged into the speaks. So, I assume that there should be a wire in the front boot area that I would plug into the amp. Now the questions: Is there wire from the head unit to the amp that should be in the front boot? Where would i find it? What type of amp is needed? 6 way, since there are 6 speakers? And same question about power to the amp? Thank in advance. Sergio
  13. I have a 1999 996 cab. It has the four regular speakers (front dash, rear seat sides) and the normal Becker 220. I tried a search on this subject but just found upgrades for those who already have the hifi option in their ride. I recently came across two door panels with the built in bose speaker set up. I have taken the old door skins off and see that there is a wire in place for the speaker. I have installed both door skins plus speakers but when I turn on the radio unit I get not sound and going into the menu I can seem to find a option to access the door speakers. Is there s
  14. 1999 Carrera: have removed the tire, brake cali, disc, hub and bearing. Did not use the "Porsche" hub/bearing puller. Used a generic puller. Now it's time to put it back together and before I shoot myself in the foot I thought I might ask for some advice. Since I am not using the tool that I have seen on my searches on how to do this and I do not wish to spend 200+ in obtaining the tool, but I do wish to save myself from pit falls, I query: What is the best method, (without the Porshce tool) to re-install the hub? Thank you in advance. Sergio
  15. Thank you, I had found the micro switch issue but was still worried about the top.
  16. I recently had some vandals do some damage to the rear quarter window and convertible top of my 99 cab. I have replaced the lift arms, the bracket that attaches the top to the body, and the quarter window. It looks like the took a large hammer and just beat the heck out of the rear part of the top causing the frame to twist. So it also looks like I need to find and replace the back frame below the window and the cross member just above the window. Yet having a bit of trouble in finding used replacement parts; I may just have to buy new ones. Until I find those pieces I am just going to pu
  17. I was hoping that since the rear wheels were 9.5 in., that the narrower rim might make up the difference and not have the tire rub on the fender.
  18. Hi Loren, The offsets are 50 and 54 respectively. Serg
  19. Not to hijack the thread ... but: I have a chance to purchase a set of wheels 18x7.5 and 18 x 9.5 respectively for almost nothing. I was thinking about using them as a secondary set for winter, etc.... I have 18x8 and 18x10 mounted on my 99 996 cab at the moment. Is the .5 in diff going to have a significant effect?
  20. It was 13 and 8. Now I have another question. I found a source that has all control arms but they are from the right side rear as opposed to left side rear. Are these parts different from left rear to right rear? If so then I still do need the part numbers; if not then I think I have found my solution plus a couple of spares. Thank you.
  21. Thank you Loren, From your diagram I may be mistaken as to one of the pieces. It looks like "8" is definitely the top arm that I am looking for, but the lower arm, that run under 8 and behind the hub might be item "13" I might be wrong that it was boxed end on both sides. It was dark when I looked and I was looking toward the interior of the area. Does 13 run parallel to 8 but underneath? Thanks again. Sergio
  22. 1999 cab. Trying to replace the lower and upper right rear control arms. The ones that look like a doublesided box end wrench. Question 1. Are the upper n lower the same part? 2. Are the control arms from left to right side interchangeable? 3. Considering that these are not "wearable" items; does it matter if I replace with new or used? 4. Part number? (they are not hear, so I can't just go look) Thank you in advance. Sergio
  23. Thank you logray, excellent link, and I did get the parts from Pelican; should have looked around while I was there. Thanks again. Serg
  24. 99- 996 with trip. With the help of the forum (quick thank you) I was able to determine that I had a bad bearing/idler pully. I have removed the air box and am trying to determine: 1. the correct torque for the attaching bolt on the upper idler, and 2. does it require a specific spanner or wrench, or can i use a common open/box end? Also there was a great video (shows removal of box and how to on the tensioner) when I first looked at how to do this but I have since grown a few days older and cannot remember the search words i used. Any ideas? Thank you in advance for your help. Serg
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