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Found 25 results

  1. Hi everyone. My 2006 Boxster S suddenly started making a squealing noise. Noise goes away at higher RPM, only to come back at lower RPM and at idle. Not related to gear or clutching at all. Noise seems loudest at the rear of the car; I can hardly hear it inside with the windows closed. Is this a serpentine belt issue? Or the bearing of some engine accessory? I have 50,000 miles, and have already changed the serpentine belt once, around 4-5 years ago, just due to age of the car. I have not yet had the time to open up the engine compartment to look further. If it's a belt, then I would expec
  2. I hate my pig but I love my pig, can anyone please help me before I send it for scrap. Over the space of the last 4 years of ownership my car has been in the Porsche dealers for 2 years in total with suspension problems, to cut a long story short this is now sorted and was due to a faulty replacement air bag being fitted. Moving on after 3 months of (almost) trouble free motoring this is what’s happening now and would love some advice as the closest porsche dealers is over 200 miles away from me. When I picked up the car from Porsche it ran out of petrol before I got to the garage at t
  3. Tried googeleing it but couldn’t find what I was after. Was curious if anyone knows what type of flat 6 the 986 boxster has? Is it a a true boxer engine? Or a horizontally opposed flat V? True boxer meaning it has individual crank pins for each piston and is a true 180degree angle. Thanks in advance
  4. Hello there, this is my first post here and I’m writing because of problem with my boxster. Today in the morning I’ve started my 2002 boxster and noticed strange sounds from the engine/ rear side of the car It’s a metallic, grinding sound like a loose piece of metal or something like that Sound disappears when you press gas and comes back once you loose the pedal, I don’t know if it changes while engine is warm Also, check engine light shown up yesterday, when I connected my BT OBD2 there was no error code. I came with that to workshop also, and they said it’s a
  5. Two problems which may be connected 1) Car starts first couple of turns most of the time.......then sometimes wont start for 5 or 6 seconds of churning.....doesnt seem to matter if its hot or cold...... 2) at low revs ( below 2300) the engine seems to "hunt" and revs up and down about 200 rpm. It makes it very uncomfortable in traffic. Had it tested static and driving and no fault codes for either problem. Any suggestions much appreciated.
  6. Just posted a docu. on my completed 02 996 M96 3.6 l engine rebuild for a gorgeous C4 cab barn find, I bough back in August 17 as roller with complete engine (Head&Case failure). http://ow.ly/SjDf30fJkID It is not about performance upgrades or how it should be done. Is about the process to get it done with very details on the critical steps for the hands-on engineer. The car drives fantastic now, and if it breaks I will be confidently enough to spend the needed money and time to order on the new hard parts (Nickies, rods, heads, etc.... For now I did not spend a
  7. Hi guys, I’m writing from Italy, owner of a 2000 986 S, 84.000 km on the clock. First of all, I have to apologize for my poor English. Recently I had my cluster bulbs replaced thanks to the good DIY guides found over here, so, thank you so much for helping us all with your knowledge and patience. In order to do the job, since my car features the optional alarm, I previously disconnected the negative cable of the battery while leaving the ignition key on position 2 as read on the board in order to avoid the siren to scream (is this correct, BTW?). With the cluster back in place, witho
  8. Well so i just noticed something weird. I parked the car after driving it for 15 to 20 mins and left it running while i went to get the mail, and when i come back I noticed that 3 out of the 4 pipes where smoking nicely but one was not quite as strong. I put my hand on the one that was not as strong as the others to make sure smoke was coming out, and notice the small amount of smoke coming out was cool! I then place my hand near the others and the smoke was hot as hell! What should I do, I am sure that is not normal! The car drives awesome, very strong, but i am sure that is not a good sign.
  9. Hi, I'd like to ask a question that has been asked, discussed, youtube videoed etc... My apologies, but I've read most of them and haven't found anything similar. I'm looking at a 2004-2006 Cayenne Turbo that I don't want to turn into an engine money pit. I've listened to 8, all cold and most have a very slight knock on the drivers side of the engine. I'm wondering if this is the beginning to the end or some explainable sound. You can only hear it once it drops to a low idle. I went to my local dealer in Denver and they stated they have no way to diagnose, would not perform a new car ins
  10. Does anyone know if the 4.5 non turbo is the same assembly, to install and set up as a non turbo 955? Am looking to replace the engine and figure the turbo engine with hardened cylinders, would be good to prevent cold start issues. Thanks,
  11. Well, I have an engine that needs to be worked on. However it is on the floor and I need it to be on the engine stand. How do I go about strapping this thing down so I can move it ??
  12. Hi! I have a 2010 Panamera 4.8l tt that I bought because it had a water damaged engine. Tear down is complete, and I have the parts that need machining at Patterson Elite (http://www.patterson-elite.com). Although I just dropped the parts off today, by this afternoon Todd Patterson had a challenge for me. The block is one solid piece of aluminum (so it seems), therefore the cylinder walls are aluminum and do not appear to be sleeved currently. The water damage bent a rod and the result was a scored cylinder, so the challenge is...how do we machine this cylinder? It seems if we follow th
  13. 2001 996 47K miles. The engine temperature or coolant temperature needle has always sat on the 8 (180), once when i did a long 3 hr drive it drifted to then end of the zero, but it was a 3 hr drive on a 90degree day, but no big deal, that was 3 yrs ago. It has always sat on the 8. I noticed recently during city driving in about 15 mins, the needle starts to drift to the end of the the zero, and when its on the highway for a few minutes it would lower back into the beginning of the zero, but never back onto the 8. No leaks under the car, i see no signs of coolant in the engine, no
  14. Iv recently purchased a Porsche 966 C4S with 55k miles with a rear end wreck, it had sat for at least 2 months with out a proper start up. upon arrival i did an inspection, it had a few pulleys bent including the tensioner pulley so i can't necessarily run the serpentine belt with out removing the engine and replacing it, air box was broken so it had to be removed including the mass airflow sensor. exhaust was untouched. no damage to the block. after preparing it i started the car for the first time, it ran good i listened in no ticks or knocks everything was running fine ( it ran with out a s
  15. I need YOUR help! This could be our worst nightmare as Cayenne owners...I am hoping im wrong. I should mention I am very mechanical (Master level weekend wrench turner, not professional). The bullet points of the scenario: 2008 Cayenne GTS, 98K,Manual Transmission, well maintained, in excellent shape and runs (or ran) flawlessly. 1. Thought battery was going dead due to engine not turning over quickly. 2. Replaced battery, Engine did not make any change... in fact, was getting worse. Would barely turn even a little bit. 3. Hooked up battery to charger to be 100%, no change.
  16. Hi, I have a 2008 Porsche Cayenne with a a CEL for P2404. The car runs completely normal and this is the only check engine light code. The only information I found on this is: P2404 Evaporative Emission System Leak Detection Pump Sense Circuit Range/Performance Possible cause of fault - Insufficient vacuum (system has a leak or blockage) - Short circuit to B+ in signal line - Leakage diagnosis pump faulty (diaphragm or reed switch sticks, internal solenoid valve stays closed or is blocked) -DME control module faulty I was wondering if there was anyone with a similar issue or anyone wi
  17. Hi Renntech Experts, Please pepper my situation with your wisdom... 2001 Boxster S 118,000 Kms LN ENGINEERING double row bearing installed 1 year ago last service: 105,000 kms minor mods e.g. pod filter and cold air intake A grinding noise started coming from the engine bay this morning while parking the car (warm engine, low rpm) I turned the car off just after it happened hoping it was nothing I came back 8 hours later, started the car and the noise was there from the start (recording is from inside) https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-lg21ZsNUmnSzFyQmpBd3lqS1
  18. I have a '97 Boxster, with the base engine & 5 speed transmission. I have done several things to it in the past year attempting to fix missing/rough running issues; replaced the plugs, all the coil packs, MAF sensor, and the 2 front O2 sensors. Ran great for a few days this last time (one of the new coil packs went bad; reinstalled one of the old ones that I was pretty certain was still good and reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery). Now it has started doing something completely different; it has never done this before.... you can hold the RPM's at a steady 2k for instance, and the
  19. hi, Wich is the best option to buy a rebuld engine for a 1997 boxter 986 ... mine is a 2.7 need a 3.2
  20. I'm considering a Boxster project, and wondering if a 2.7L (2000) engine will fit in a 1999 Boxster body/frame. If so, any significant mods required? Thanks for the assist!
  21. We have updated the Porsche Approved Engine Oils TSBs for all cars.Our Contributing Members can read them online in the TSB section.
  22. (edited 17/May/2012 - changed from question to the procedure I followed) Hi Guys, In case you're ever in the same situation, below is the procedure I used for re-starting my 996 3.4L TIP following about 3 months elapsed of dashboard work where all of the following items were removed and now re-installed with the battery disconnected for the whole 3mths. Radio A/C Control Passenger Airbag Drivers Airbag Steering Wheel / Clock Spring Combination Switch Instrument Pod I broke the re-start into the following 3 steps which I've detailed below: Checks prior to starting engine Checks
  23. i'm looking at changing the rear main seal on my 2002 996 i have all the tools and access to a ramp,is this quite a straight forward job and is there any step by step guide to this job' i'm quite competant to do this job having worked fo a specialised mercedes benz truck dealer for the last 10 years.
  24. 99- 996 with trip. With the help of the forum (quick thank you) I was able to determine that I had a bad bearing/idler pully. I have removed the air box and am trying to determine: 1. the correct torque for the attaching bolt on the upper idler, and 2. does it require a specific spanner or wrench, or can i use a common open/box end? Also there was a great video (shows removal of box and how to on the tensioner) when I first looked at how to do this but I have since grown a few days older and cannot remember the search words i used. Any ideas? Thank you in advance for your help. Serg
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