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Thoro

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About Thoro

  • Rank
    Contributing Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    Norway
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    Mercedes E270 W211
    Mini CooperS Convertible
  • Future cars
    Porsche 996
  • Former cars
    Porsche 911 -78
  1. Thanks a lot, good ide both of you:) Got the codes from another dealer after prove of ownership and a copy of my ID.
  2. Hi, thanks. I have PST2 V24 software, so I have the option, only missing the codes. If it`s possible to get the codes from dealer in US, I guess it should be so in Norway too. Will try to send a request direct to the technical department at Porsche Norway. Thanks anyway:)
  3. I`m the owner of a -99 996 Convertible, and I do most of the repair an maintenance myself. To help diagnose I bought a KTS500 that has saved me a lot of money. Now I`m about to program a new remote, but to do so I need the code from IPAS. I asked the local Porsche dealer, but they told me that Porsche would not let me have them because of some theft reason. Anyone else tried to get hold of the codes? I would appreciate any help on how to get them:)
  4. Yes, #5 is correct. I was lucky to get it back on, not much space there on a convertible:)
  5. Hi, problem solved:) Went through everything I had been involved in as you suggested, and found tube between throttle body and AOS to be a bit "sloppy" when I disconnected it from throttle body. Getting under the car I could see that tube was not connected to AOS, so I manage to get a hand up there to reconnect it. (I guess it had not been properly connected from the beginning) After that, the car runs as smooth as it's supposed to:) I can not explain why cyl 1-3 was suffering from the failure more than cyl 4-6, but that certainly confused me. Anyway, I'm very thankful for all the help you gave me, nice to have this possibility, it's a tremendous recource. If anyone want advice on how to remove/install a throttle body, just ask, I have done it a few times last week:) Thanks, Thor Olav.
  6. Yes, I have done my best to do so, but I will try to swap coil packs and plugs, and also check my work all over again tonight. Will give an update later.
  7. Yes, here are the codes: 75 Misfire damageing to Cat converter (P0300) 63 Cylinder 2 Misfire damageing to Cat converter (P0302) 65 Cylinder 3 Misfire damageing to Cat converter (P0303) 51 Cyl 2 misfire emission relevant (P1314) 52 Cyl 3 misfire emission relevant (P1315) 62 Misfire emission-relevant (P1319) Thanks:)
  8. Hi, I'm now back after a few more days than planned. What I did yesterday was to check compression on cyl 1, 2 and 3. Had to do it on cold engine, but they all came up with about the same values. (170-180 or 12) I also started it a few seconds to read out O2 sensors, and they looked about as expected, but on Fuel System 2 status, it says: Open loop (system fault) what does that mean? Got same codes related to Bank 1. Is it possible the Bank 1 camshaft sensor could cause this? From the wiring it looks like sensor Bank 1 and 2 are in paralell, so I'm not sure. To run the tests from misfire troubleshooting diagram, I have to keep the engine running for a while, and I don't think that is a smart thing to do right now. Thor Olav
  9. I see, so camshaft control is the variocam actuator. I have disconnected battery for other reasons, no luck as you say. First I will spend a couple of days to go deer hunting to charge my own batteries, than I will go deeper into wiring, coil packs and connectors:)
  10. Hi. Have now checked the cam timing, and it's just like you describe it should be. In the misfire trouble shooting, when misfire on one bank, it's possible "Camshaft control badly adjusted" What's camshaft control? And how do I reset? Thanks again for taking the time to help me out on this:)
  11. Thanks again. I put all the parts together again today, and cleared all error codes. It starts easy, but when key goes out of starter mode, it dies in a few seconds. To make it run I have to rev up to 2000 rpm, but It,s very rough, with backfiring, misfire, smell of fuel and surgeing. Kept it running for a couple of minuts, then the CEL light came on an it got even worse. After stopping I had following error codes: 62 Misfire emission-relevant (P1319) 50 Cylinder 1 misfire emission relevant (P1313) 52 Cylinder 3 misfire emission relevant (P1315) 75 Misfire damageing to Cat converter (P0300) 63 Cylinder 1 Misfire damageing to Cat converter (P0301) 65 Cylinder 3 Misfire damageing to Cat converter (P0303) Strange enough no error on cyl 2, but manifold was cold as no 1 and 3, so I guess it was on it's way:) I cleared errors and started again to run for 30 seconds, but no error codes. Is there any chance of a bad DME? If not, I guess I have to drop the engine:( Thor Olav
  12. Hi, and thank you for helping me out on this. I have now checked the Groun point, and nothing wrong with them. I also replaced sparks on cyl 1, 2 and 3 as they where soaked by fuel. Now all 6 manifolds get hot, but the car still runs very rough, and with no power. Checked knock sensor connectors, tried to find cam adjustment sensors, but was not able to. It feels like the timing is totaly wrong. Error codes yesterday was: 124 Intake Air Temp Sensor (P0112) 50+51+52 cyl 1, 2 and 3 misfire (P1315) 62 Misfire (P1319) 10 O2 sensor ahead of cat cyl 1-3 (P0130) But non today, as I was not able to have the engine run long enough. Timing shows -6deg when running, but haven't too much time to measure as the car is dying after a few seconds.
  13. Hi, I've seen a lot of people getting help on this forum, so I will give it a try to see if anyone can help me out of my misery:( I had to replace leaking oil filler tube, and removed filter box, throttle body with connectors and tubes and removed the right hand bolt on alternator to access the most rear bolt of filler tube. It was all put back in place, and when starting, only cyl 4, 5 and 6 where "on line". I let It run for a few seconds, very roughly idle of course, but left side of engine remained cold. I could even hold around exhaust manifold without getting burned on left side, but certainly not on the right side. I also did some other work on the car, but I don't think any of that could be related to the problem What I have done to investigate is this: - Double checked that all connectors and tubes where properly installed on throttle housing. - Removed sparks from left side, showing solid sign of fuel to the system, together with smell of unburned fuel from exhaust. - Checked spark when cranking. - Replaced O2 lambda sensor - Checked Variocam solenoid, both Ohm (13.5) and action. - Checked power to Variocam solenoid (both pos and neg) No error codes except those related to reaction, not the cause, like misfire cyl 1, 2 and 3, MAF and so on. The car is a -99 996 C2 convertible, 100000 miles. US model. Hope anyone can give me some help on this:)
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