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Found 5 results

  1. Sometimes when programming the DME or Alarm control unit with the PST2 or PIWIS, you will get an error of "Test Step Aborted" followed by an error number, such as 3, 21, 25, 71 etc. I have the PST2 manuals, as well as the KTS manuals and the 986 and 996 Dealer manuals, but one thing I have not been able to find in any of them is a list of error codes that follow the "test step is aborted message" Sometimes, I have had the errors when I have put in an incorrect "old immobiiser code", or "old learning code", which kind of make sense.. But I often get the error when programming a control unit (yes I do have 14v onto the control unit and pin 60 powered up on the DME when it is a 5.2.2 DME) Has anyone ever found a list of the error codes and what they mean, or even worked out what they mean? When programming a DME 5.2.2 for example, I can often get to about 90 percent on the progress screen before it bombs out with one of these codes. The unit will still start the car etc if it bombs out, so I don't think it is a bricked DME, but I am just curious about the meaning of the error codes Anyone have any clues? or is my curiosity sending me towards a massive mission of discovery in an unwalked path? lol
  2. Moving on from my question about the "test step aborted" code numbers. One other thing I find, if I try to read the vehicle data from a DME 5.2.2 I get a pop up window that says... Fehlercode 7014 Fehler: erwarteter Blocktitel nicht eingetroffen (C_SD_FZ_KWP_2000::receivelstwert) With an "OK" button under it... If I hit the enter key, the PST2 reboots... Anyone know what this means? I am begging to think that perhaps a file or data on my PST2 might be corrupt!
  3. This is Part II of the process of trying to find out why fuse C3 blows as soon as I put the fuse in. This disables the things in the title and prevents the doors from locking other than the driver's door with the key. Story started August 13. So far I have done the following (some unrelated) without finding the solution: 1) Checked battery, voltage was low (12V) due to low output from alternator; changed voltage regulator. Now runs about 13.5 volts. Bad battery is apparently main cause of alarm logic failures. Replaced both oil temp. senders. 2) Looked at wiring diagrams which led me to fuse C3 which was blown. Replaced it and things lit up. Shortly thereafter fuse C3 blew. 3) Removed seats and checked the condition of alarm logic box on driver's side. Disconnected airbag connectors on both sides. Replaced fuse C3. Everything worked. Put airbag connectors back together and everything still worked. 4) Removed headliner. 5) Put seats, etc. back in. Fuse C3 blew. 6) Bought PST2 laptop clone on eBay. Learned something about it and troubleshooting with it. Found out about Diagnostics Manual that was sitting right on my computer. Learned about IPAS codes which are required to activate and teach modules (e.g., "program" new key). Dealers are reluctant to give people their codes even after showing proof of ownership because they don't want to lose out on the money if people fix their own cars. There is also a security issue. But, there are dealers that will provide the codes. You just have to find one. 7) Replaced Passenger Compartment Sensor (senses presence of either kind of passenger - driver or passenger) and central locking switch. Fuse C3 blew. 8) Left front turn signal stopped working. Changed bulbs, worked on socket for about two hours. No help. Swapped sockets/lamps left to right. Problem followed socket/lamp. Right turn signal now not working. Ordered two new sockets. Got in car next morning and both turn signals were working and have continued to work ever since. No affect on Fuse C3. Sockets are cheap - $13 and are the major cause of turn signal failure. Turn signal lamps last longer than sockets. 9) Removed fuses D8 & D9 to isolate the removed PCM module from power. No help. So, almost a month later I am about $1200 (including $50 worth of 15 amp fuses :blush:) poorer and still have same problem. I am resisting the temptation to buy a new alarm logic module until I've done more testing. The modules aren't cheap, but not outrageous. The diagnostic manual has whole sets of troubleshooting sequences for each of the alarm module codes. Yesterday, I had alarm logic module codes 34,60,61,47,46,10 &11, I reset the codes. This morning I had just 47, 34, & 60. Later this morning I reset the codes, drove home from the store and still have no codes. I could go through the diagnostic procedure for, lets say, code 34. However, there are only two solutions for fixing a code 34. One is to replace passenger compartment sensor (already done) and repair wiring harness. So, I need to check wiring harness for problem and repair it - what wiring harness? The two that go to the alarm logic module or the one that goes to the passenger compartment sensor? For code 47, first check input signals from doors that are not locked. If PST2 indicates Driver's and Passenger's doors not locked (which mine did), check door locks. The following steps include removing connectors from door locks and from alarm logic module, checking continuity between terminals. This means taking door panels off (?) and front seat out. But, the only two options for repair are repair wiring harness or replace alarm module. What wiring harness? The diagnostics for code 60 are very clearly written but has lots of steps. Since I already know that the central locking switch is not working (but, it is good because its new (?), so I think its not working because fuse C3 is blown) I go to step 5, 6, and 7 or 8 which say to repair wiring harness or to step 9 which says to repair wiring harness and then maybe to step 10 which either takes us to check fuse C3 or repair wiring harness or replace alarm system control module. Step 11 is not feasible because during the few short times fuse C3 stayed closed long enough to lock the doors with the key fob, the doors locked. So, the door locks are OK. My conclusion is that I should check every wiring harness in the front of the car or replace the alarm system control module. Maybe I should just buy an alarm system control module. "Andraya, please ship alarm module". Mike
  4. My top quit on me so I got a whole lot of info from you guys and found my hydraulic tank was below MIN I followed the advice of this forum and added fluid to my top (it was below MIN). The cylinders now work well, but I think either the sync is off or I screwed something up messing with it before I finally checked the fluid. So here's what going on: 1) I start by mechanically opening up the 'hook latch' on the front of the top (top is in the half way closed position). 2) I continue to close it....it closes and latches. And then there is the back lid motor running but does NOT close the back lid...it times out 3) I push the open switch, it unlatches, top goes all the way down, side flaps fold up......motor starts for lid closure, but doesn't move....times out 4) I open top, side flaps open, top starts closing.....goes a foot from the windshield and stops (as does the hydraulic motor). 5) I notice that the 'hook' has not opened to receive the slot. 6) I manually open the 'hook', hit the switch and it closes and latches......but again, there is no closure of the rear cover. I do notice that the lever for the back cover (connected by the flexible shaft to the rear hook that draws the cover down) is not moving.....and therefore not hitting the microswitch). Is this a timing issue? Can the PST2 unit fix this.....or are there many more variables? Thing is, it was working fine and then one day it just 'stopped'....only 2 clicks...no motors Thanks guys
  5. I`m the owner of a -99 996 Convertible, and I do most of the repair an maintenance myself. To help diagnose I bought a KTS500 that has saved me a lot of money. Now I`m about to program a new remote, but to do so I need the code from IPAS. I asked the local Porsche dealer, but they told me that Porsche would not let me have them because of some theft reason. Anyone else tried to get hold of the codes? I would appreciate any help on how to get them:)
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