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RayGT3

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Everything posted by RayGT3

  1. RayGT3
    You are correct in regards to the flashing being affected by the change in bulb type. Thanks for reminding me. I believe a resistor can be added to compensate for the difference. Anyone knoe the value of the resistor required?
  2. RayGT3
    Have an '04 GT3 and was wondering if anyone has changed the standard rear tail light incandescent amber bulb with an amber LED version. This would get rid of the orange look when not illuminated and still provide the needed color when lit. Please provide supplier and P/N's. Tnx
  3. RayGT3
    SPR, To remove the GT3 OE links you need to place a narrow wrench on the inside to prevent the shaft from turning and a socket on the outside. There's no problem getting the nut off, it's getting the rod end out of the support. It's like in a small box, surrounded on four sides by the support with the bolt protruding through one of the sides. To remove the rod end you need to move the piece back about 1 1/4" to clear to bolt extending through the support, the problem is there is only about 1/2" between the back of the rod end and the support behind it. Everything is loose but no room to get the stud past the hole to allow removal. It appears that the whole support section needs to be dissembled to remove this piece. It looks like the link is placed into it's position and then the rest is assembled. So I just hacked off the link at the top and left the upper rod end in place. It doesn't hurt anything being there as the new ones mount to either side of this mounting. It's always something...... Ray
  4. RayGT3
    LVDell, Thanks for the input. Changed the wheels today everything went without a hitch. The worst was getting the screws to start straight when putting the new wheel on. When the battery was reconnected everything came up without any problem, just reset clock, etc. Thanks again Ray
  5. RayGT3
    I am installing an RS alcantara steering wheel and I believe it is recommended that the neg. side of the battery be disconnected 30 min. before and during this process (air bag removal). Will I have a bunch of error codes show up when I reconnect the battery or will I just have to reset the radio, etc. Tnx
  6. RayGT3
    I'm replacing the OE non-adjustable sway bar drop links with the adjustable cup links. Everything came apart without a problem with the exception of the front upper connection point. Do I have to disassemble the whole suspension to get this out or is there a magical way of sneaking the link off the mount? The rears were very close but ultimately had just enough room to squeeze the upper mount out. No such luck with the fronts. My current solution is to cut the link at the top and just leave the top mount where it is, as the new links use a different mounting spot.
  7. RayGT3
    The Pagid RS-29's would be an option as well. Similar to the 19's but a bit more bite.
  8. RayGT3
  9. RayGT3
    I'm replacing the sway bar droplinks in my GT3 with cup type adjustable ones. My question pertains to the bar mounting bushings. When doing this on my other cars, non-Porsche, I would change the rubber mounting bushings with less compliant Polyurethane ones. Anyone know if this needs to be addressed in the Porsche or if the OE material is best for the application? If it would be advisable to make a change, I haven't seen upgraded bushings available any where. Any suggestions?
  10. RayGT3
    A nice warm day and some direct sunlight will help as well.
  11. RayGT3
    SPR, I understand, If it works that you have some great, if not, thanks for the offer any way. Ray
  12. RayGT3
    SPR, There's no hurry on my part. Just let me know when they are available and we can make arrangements to have them sent out. Thanks for help, I know I could just as well tie them up but I feel a neat clean car is a fast happy car. Again you help is appreciated. Ray
  13. RayGT3
    SPR, I'd be happy to pay the shipping on the dead sensors you have. Please let me know and I'll PM you the shipping instructions and send me your address, I'll send you a check for the shipping. TIA Ray
  14. RayGT3
    I'm wondering if the paint code for the light blue color used for the decals on the sides of the GT3 RS is available? I realize the logo on the sides are decals but was wondeing if the same color paint is available. I'd like to do some interior detail work with the matching color. TIA
  15. RayGT3
    As I had mentioned, strange. The OE GT3 pads have no holes and the sensors have no provision for using the holes if they were there. So I'm a bit confused, not all that unusual, but none the less, confused. The boxster S front pads are supposedly the same as the GT3 rears. I would have expected the sensors to be the same, given that information. But aside from all this, I still am looking for a pair of worn out sensors so I might use the connector off the ends to make a jumper, and not have to concern myself with all of this. So if you have a couple sensors in the scrap pile, let me know, I'll gladly pay the shipping and put them to good use. Now my head hurts.
  16. RayGT3
    Strange, the oe gt3 pads have no holes for the sensors they just slip into a machined area on the pad backing plate and sort of sit just above the pad material itself. The front Pagids have the same machining but the rears are slotted like the picture with no hole in the pad material. So I've got the fronts functional and the rears tied up. But as I said I'd like to remove the rears and just use a by-pass plug.
  17. RayGT3
    As you suggest, I have tied the sensors back, but if I could use them I would like to. If it is just changing the type of sensor it would be easy, simply plugging the new type in, to maintain the use of the indicator. The question remains, is there a different sensor that will work re: fit, with the rear pads?
  18. RayGT3
    I replaced the pads on my '04 GT3 with Pagid RS4-2-1 (street compound black) on the front and Pagid RS4-2-1 (sport drk blue) on the rear. The question is, the oe sensors fit the fronts but the rear sensors do not. The pads are slotted to receive a sensor but are a different type of slot than the front. The rear pads are the same as the boxter s and am wondering if the wear sensor from the boxter is different than the GT3's and would they fit the rear pads? Hope this isn't too confusing, but gave it a shot. TIA
  19. RayGT3
    Do you by any chance have a photo of the underside of the silver piece?
  20. RayGT3
    I have a standard shift knob and boot and would like to replace the silver portion that is scratched with another one I have that is perfect but the wrong color leather. I need to know how to remove the silver/Aluminum portion so I might swap them. Tnx
  21. RayGT3
    I'm not sure where you're located but Ceramic materials are available in most industrialized parts of the world. As to cost I'm sure when all is said and done the cost is not much more than rapping, if at all. I had both my headers and some other piping done for about $100 US. The coating is about 1/100 the weight of wrap materials about .0600" thick. Cracking is a result of heat cycling, uneven heating, not just high temperature, as well as using the wrong materials for the piping to begin with. Shinney 300 series SS pipe is pretty but no good for heat cycling. Low grade, dull, rusty looking, ss will last much longer in this type of environment. Wrap also tends to bring with it moisture problems such as rotting out covered welds etc. (moisture) as well as not being able to provide an even coating resulting as you mention, cracking. If you ever get a chance take a good look at a F1 engine and exhaust system, they make extensive use of ceramic coating as well as others. The piston domes, combustion chambers, valve faces, valve stems, exhaust runners, air intake piping, intake manifolds and headers all ceramic coated. As well as the piston skirts, crank weights and crank case are all teflon coated.
  22. RayGT3
    With all this concern over inlet temps and heat soak, this begs the question, why not get rid of the heat before it becomes a problem or concern? The exhaust headers run directly under the engine and a good portion of this heat migrates up into the engine again and into the engine compartment. If a body took the exhaust manifold and related piping and had it ceramic coated ( not that jet coat paint stuff but real plasma applied ceramic material) then you could reduce the heat radiated to the surroundings by as much as 60%. The results being lower intake temperatures, less stress on the cooling system, cooler internal engine temperatures and improved mechanical reliability. The cost is not prohibitive and adds little weight, fraction of a pound at the most. I'm estimating the engine compartment temps can be reduced easily by 10 - 20 deg f in a normal application simply by pushing the heat out the end of the exhaust pipe and not back into the engine. All this equates to cheap, reliable HP. And yes I have done this to my GT3.
  23. RayGT3
    All real Alcantara comes in the US through Gulf Fabrics from Italy. GF is the wholesale supplier for the US.
  24. RayGT3
    Yup, air is about 80% nitrogen but more important is the water that is also presant. The expansion coefficient of dry air and pure nitrogen is almost identical so the thing about the pressure changes being different relative to temperature holds no water. Speaking of water, that's the culprit. If you put dry air re:-70 deg f dewpoint, into a tire the performance would be identical to that of nitrogen. It's the moisture that adds all that extra expansion to the equation. Point of the message use air to fill tires that is as dry as possible. And yes, nitrogen, out of the bottle, is extremely dry.
  25. RayGT3
    Please be sure the cover is secure re: very tight, to the surface because if not any dirt or dust between them will get ground into the paint as the air moves the cover across the painted surface when driving, this is a common problem with some types of bras. You might want to put a quick coat of wax on and leave it ( don't wipe the wax off ) before putting the paper in place just for some extra protection.
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