ebaker

The service writer looked mine up on the Porsche network using the VIN.

Replacing plugs 996TT without a lift Tools #25, 27, 40 torx socket drivers, 10mm, 13mm sockets, 5/8 spark plug socket, 5 or 6mm hex socket 3/8" ratchet and 12" and 6" extension, u-joint medium phillips screwdriver torque wrench 1)Jack up car, put stands under the rear jack points. Remove rear wheels. 2)Remove taillight assembly: 2 phillips screws. 3)Remove bumperettes: remove access plug, loosen size 40 torx from below 2 turns, pivots upward 4)Remove rear only wheel well liner: several torx and 2 plastic 10mm nuts (easy to strip when reinstalling) 5)Remove rear bumper cover: 4 phillips on top, 2 phillips on bottom, 4 torx on bottom, 2 torx in the wheel well. Its easy to scratch when removed. Slide off with a helper so you don't scratch the paint. Unplug the wires. 6)Remove center rear heat shield: 3 10mm bolts, 2 screws. Using compressed air, if available, thoroughly blow all the dirt and debris off the intercoolers, engine, wheel well, brakes, etc. Remove the intercooler with brackets 7)Disconnect the big hoses where they plug into the intercooler. Pull/pry with a screwdriver, the center of the hose retaining wire clips back far enough to release the hoses. Pull/wiggle the hoses out of the intercooler. It may be easier to remove the upper 2 hoses completely. Mark the inner and outer ends of the upper hoses or note where the arrows are to aid reassembly. Inspect the hose O-rings. The manual says to replace the O rings, but I don't know if that's really necessary. 8)On each side remove 5 13mm nuts/bolts holding on the intercooler brackets. Remove bottom 2 sheetmetal nuts attaching the bottom of the side heat shields. Pull the heat shield off the studs. Slide the intercooler assembly forward about an inch then remove it. 9)Bend the shields upward. Leave top heatshield attachment nuts on. YOU CAN NOW SEE THE TOP OF THE HEADS! Remove the coils: 10)Remove the heat shield attached to the head. Unclip the O2 sensor wires from it and let the shield slide down out of the way. 11)Driver side remove the waste gate vac hose abd the pressure sensor(?) hose next to it. 12)Remove all the coil retaining allen head bolts. 13)Unclip all 6 coil wires. (I couldn't get the coils back on with the wires attached) 14)Remove the coils, it may be a little difficult to manuver them out. 15)Using long extensions remove the spark plugs. Visually inspect the new plugs prior to installation. Gap is about .8mm (.032"), NOT 1.6 mm as the shop manual states. I wouldn't try to adjust them if the gap looks reasonably close. Mine were about .025 -.032". I had a new damaged plug that had the side electrode bent. Visually inspect the coils. Pull off the rubber boots and look for any cracks or carbon tracking. Try to keep the rubber boots very clean to avoid carbon tracking. Put a samll amount of anti-sieze on the inner 1/2 of the spark plug threads. You don't want any grease or fingerprints on the ceramic, rubber boots, or in the spark plug recess in the head. 1)Install the plugs. They should easily screw in by hand. Torque to 22 ft/lb. 2)Put the coils in place. Attach the coil wires prior to installing the coil bolts. Make sure the wires 'click' into the coils before you pull the little rubber boots down. Space is limited. Install the coil bolts with a SMALL amount of anti-sieze. Torque to 7 ft.lbs. 3)Install the heat shield to the head with a little anti-sieze. Torque to 7 ft.lbs. You may need to use a u-jount socket on 1 of the bolts. Clip the O2 sensor wires and vac hoses back on to the heat shields. Reinstall the 2 vac hoses on the driver side. Check for any loose/disconnected wires or vacuum hoses. 4)Bend the side heat shields back down. Intercooler install 5)Check that the intercooler hose retaining wire clips are fully in position at the bottom of their grooves. Blow out the intercooler inside and out with compressed air. Make sure the intercooler hose inlet and outlet sealing surfaces are clean and smooth. 6)Carefully reposition the intercooler assembly on the car. Be careful not to scratch the paint. Push it rearward and install the nuts/bolts. Torque to 17 ft.lb. Tighten the side heat shield sheet metal nuts. Install the intercooler hoses. The hose ends should audibly click into place. 7)Reinstall the center rear heat shield. 8)With a helper reinstall the bumper cover. Remember to reconnect the wire. Install the screws loosely. Before you tighten it down position the wheel well liner and loosely install it's screws. Push the bumper cover and wheel well liner into position and tighten. (It was difficult to get the wheel well liner into position with the bumper cover fully tightened.) Do not overtighten the plastic nuts and strip the threads. 9)Reinstall the bumperettes. Engauge the top groove and pivot them down, retighten the bolt. 10)Reinstall the taillight assembly. It took me about 5 hours the first time, about 3 1/2 the second time. ebaker

thanks I did some datalogs. It has shown "Pending" codes P0301 and P0302 (misfire cylinders 1, 2) and pending codes P7000 and P7030 on other occasions. The engine usually runs strong up through second gear, but in third it misses and cuts out so badly that it won't rev much above 4200, even with full throttle. The Lambda readings go high to 1.1 - 1.3 (excess O2) when it is missing. I guess then is normal since the misfire is not burning all the oxygen(?) It runs perfectly below 3000 rpm, and the lamda stays very near 1.0. How do I tell if it's a lean miss/ fuel starvation vs bad spark plugs? The datalogger seems useful, but I need to find some type of tutorial on how to understand the readings.

I could not find any similar codes in my shop manual. I've been getting a misfire, possibly from bad sparkplugs. I also got code P0301 and P0302 (misfire cyl 1 & 2). I have 28000mi. on the plugs.

The latest TSB for the turbo says to use ANY synthetic ACEA A3 rated oil in 0w40 weight. You may use 5w40 or 5w50 if the temp doesn't get below -12F.

I think the X50 is louder because of the less restrictive turbos.

Evidently Tips will not dyno correctly. At least on the 996TT, the torque convertor lock up clutch won't stay locked and it also forces upshifts before the power peak. The ECU seems to cut the engine power too. There are several threads on 6speed online about this. If the car is 4WD you MUST disconnect the front driveshaft or you'll destroy the front diff. Even a 4WD dyno with linked rollers will cause damage unless the driveshaft is disconnected.

Don please elaborate, I was thinking or buying a 2 post.

I'd be interested in seeing if there were any over-revs while in the dealer's possession.

225's will be OK on 7.5" or 8" wide wheels.

Mintex full metallic racing pads were available over 25 years ago. It is an old respected company.

Check eBay.

I just make a normal stop from 35 down to 5 mph about 10 times in a row. Drive about 1 minute between stops to avoid overheating. After that just drive reasonably for a couple of days and avoid any heavy braking from high speeds. I think you run too much risk of overheating by driving 500 yards while dragging the brakes. What you want to accomplish is getting the brake pad and disk surfaces to wear down a little and match up without glazing (melting) the surface of the pad.

I bought a good enough aluminum cap style wrench at Discount Auto parts. Some VW dealers also sell them.

The Rosso's have a 1 ply rayon sidewall. Generally rayon gives a smooth and quiet ride.

I used a long 3/16" allen wrench. At night you can shine a penlight in the access hole to locate the adjuster. You have to point the allen wrench at an angle.

There is a TSB on the clutch pedal sticking.

I looked at that same auction. From the pictures in the auction it looked identical to the RUF shifter in every detail. I called B&M and they manufacture it for subcontractors, they do not sell it through their normal dealer network.

Can't the headlights be adjusted without removing anything (except the plastic inspection hole cover)? I adjusted mine using a slightly longer than usual 5/32" allen wrench.

As a general rule you will gain 1% power for every 7 dergrees F you lower intake air temp.

The BMW forum recommended cleaning The mass air sensor using simple green and alcohol. Has anyone had any luck with this?