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ebaker

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Everything posted by ebaker

  1. I've read these instructions several times and they don't make sense. I think where they say to TIGHTEN the hydraulic line until the cylinder moves, it should be translated to LOOSEN the hydraulic line until the cylinder moves. It seems that you would have to loosen the fittings to bleed out the air bubbles. (???)
  2. On my turbo these codes were from a bad MAF - caused a lean misfire.
  3. Loren, are there instructions for adding oil ? My spoiler moves but gives the error message every time it extends. One hydraulic ram has a film of oil on the shaft.
  4. Give the guy a break, it's very easy to over rev a 996TT in first gear.
  5. Loren, do you have a list of recalls and "Workshop Campaigns" ?
  6. Check the small vacuum hoses that connect to the diverter valves.
  7. Some early 2001's had solid spoke wheels. The 2002 has a glovebox and Bose radio.
  8. It's a characteristic of many hydraulic clutch systems. Crankshaft end play and irregularity in the clutch release fingers slightly push the slave cylinder pushrod in. This extra free play makes the clutch release and engage closer to the floor. Pumping the clutch once will take out the free play.
  9. The clutch may be worn. The pedal gets higher as the lining gets thinner. A clutch system that has air will have a low pedal.
  10. 2469 P1128 0-116 page 1 p1128 Printed in Germany – 4, 2002 0-116 P1128 360 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 1 - Below Limit Diagnosis conditions • Oxygen sensing system active • Time elapsed after engine start-up: 250 to 350 seconds (USA) • Time elapsed after engine start-up: 302 to 402 seconds (RoW) • Engine temperature greater than 60 °C Possible fault cause ♦ Incorrect signal from MAF sensor ♦ Fuel pressure too high ♦ Fuel injector leaking ♦ EVAP canister purge valve open Affected terminals - Diagnosis/Troubleshooting ♦ If DTC P0445 (fuel tan
  11. Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. Parts you will need: 6 ea 999 170 195 90 Spark Plugs (Beru 14FR 6LDU) Tools you will need: Jack 19 mm socket for wheel bolts, 10 mm, 13 mm sockets, 5 or 6 mm hex socket 5/8" spark plug socket 3/8" ratchet and 12" and 6" extension, u-joint Medium phillips screwdriver #25, 27, 40 torx socket drivers Torque wrench Spark Plug Removal Prep 1. Jack up car, put stands under the rear jack points. Remove rear wheels. 2. Remove taillight assembly: 2 phillips screws
  12. Spark Plug Change Instructions Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. Parts you will need: 6 ea 999 170 195 90 Spark Plugs (Beru 14FR 6LDU) Tools you will need: Jack 19 mm socket for wheel bolts, 10 mm, 13 mm sockets, 5 or 6 mm hex socket 5/8" spark plug socket 3/8" ratchet and 12" and 6" extension, u-joint Medium phillips screwdriver #25, 27, 40 torx socket drivers Torque wrench Spark Plug Removal Prep 1. Jack up car, put stands under the rear jack points. Remove r
  13. Thanks Loren. The mechanic at the dealer said any API GL-5 rated hypoid gear oil in 75W-90 weight would be fine in the front differential. I am planning on using Red Line 75W-90 API GL-5 + Hypoid Gear Oil. I'm guessing this is a good gear oil...any comments? I think GL5 will cause problems in the rear transaxle. It's too slippery. The levels of antifriction/antiwear additives are too high. This keeps the syncros from working properly. Redline makes GL4 oils in regular and light weight I believe.
  14. Seems like I remember reading that it's on the back of the radio.
  15. Many auto parts stores carry it. It's on Ebay. It's used in VW, Audi, Jaguars, and others. I got a can at Discount Auto Parts. Several local foreign car oriented auto parts stores also carry it.
  16. Mine seemed to do well with about 33/37
  17. It may be the o ring that goes on the end of the tube that goes thru the center of the filter element.
  18. From the shop manual. I have not done this (yet). You should probably use tubing wrenches on the oil lines. 1)remove rear bumper cover 2)remove center heat shield and intercooler assembly and side heat shield(s) 3)undo upper oil pipe at the uppermost connection while counterholding the larger connection below with an "open ring wrench" (tubing wrench) 4)remove upper turbo support nut/bolt 5)pull vac line 6)undo 2 oil pipes on oil container 7)pull pressure pipe from turbo (hose clamp) 8)undo 4 turbo flange to cat nuts 9)undo header from head 10)remove turbo with header In
  19. Many have said that Fabspeed is too loud.
  20. The spoiler can be easily stolen if it's in the up position.
  21. When I changed the plugs on my 01 turbo I noticed several small surface cracks (maybe 1mm deep) on all the coils, particularly on the round part covered by the rubber boot. I don't think any cracks were visible on the external part of the coils. No carbon tracks. The car runs fine, including in heavy rain. When I had the car apart I called the dealer tech and he seemed to think it was a big problem. When I took the car in for warranty work they replaced the MAF and fuel pump and cured the full load high speed miss it was having. I don't think they pulled a coil and actually looked at the crack
  22. I believe G05 antifreeze is similar to the Porsche/Audi G12. A 996 turbo holds 6 gallons so a change with the official porsche coolant will be expensive.
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