1schoir

Hi 1schoir,

I think you bolted the lever the wrong way. The cycling back and forth and not reaching the top is symptomatic of having the gears inside the transmission in the wrong position relative to the V lever. Here's what I would suggest.

Spin each transmission following the down movement until the gears inside jumps off the teeth (I.E. CCW).

Reverse the spin to re-engage (ie CW)

Put your top in the down position. The trick is to have another boxster to take a look at and see how the V lever is supposed to face. I'll take alook when I get home tonight.

Adjust the lever to line up the black and red ball joint by spinning in the top up direction only. This is very important.

-Mark

Thanks for reply, Mark. I will follow these instructions and report back with either progress or further symptoms.

Do you reccommend that, (with all ball joints disconnected and with the cables disconnected on each side from the motor) I press the Up/Down button continuously for longer than it would take for the motor to get to its end point (say 30 seconds) in the down direction so that the motor's "position" is matched to the maximum down position as a starting point?

Also, do you know what sends the signal to the dashboard display to either light up or extinguish the "top open" light?

I did read in an old thread about someone putting in the V-Levers upside down (i.e, 180 degrees off) but I don't have another Boxster nearby or immediately available to ascertain the correct postion of the V-Levers but I will try to look for photos of where the V-levers are supposed to be in their travel when the top is in the maximum down position.

Regards, 1schoir.

I've got a similar problem. Passenger window does not retract when door is opened or when door is closed. It stays in full up position. Driver's door works properly. Is there a switch actuated by the door lever? If so, what's the cure?

On each door there is a microswitch that is tripped when the outside door handle is pulled and another microswitch that is tripped when the inside door handle is pulled. If the problem is only as you describe it, i.e., that if happens when you pull on the outside door handle, try to pull on the inside door handle and see if you get a different result. That could help you narrow it down.

Regards, 1schoir.

well, i'm not TP or Mark, but i have a question. ;)

this sounds like a transmission problem at first read. but if you are using a drill to spin the cables (which turn the transmissions) and the top works with the drill, then maybe it's a conv cable motor problem? or maybe a relay malfunction?

i would remove the cables from the conv cable motor and put something in there (like a drill bit or something) so you can watch the rotation to see if it changes direction. that's what it sounds like is happening.

just thinking out loud...

The top works with drills hooked up to the cables and it also operated from the almost completely open position all the way up to the almost closed position (about 6 to 8 inches from the windshield), when it started cycling back and forth again.

I willl see if I can dig up something like a speedometer cable to stick into the cable motor so I can watch the rotation as you suggested. Let me know what you discover when you install your new transmissions.

Regards, 1schoir.

1schoir,

I had a similar experience with my top - the transmission moved in the same direction regardless of what direction I pushed the button. I am in the process of upgrading the transmissions to the newer style and see if that helps. I will let you know. I have all the pieces I need (I think) and I am planning on getting it done this afternoon / evening.

I already have a thread about my top experience - I will post pictures and the steps I took in that thread.

Meanwhile, continue with the motor suggestion and see if it behaves the same way when it gets to the positions you mentioned. My guess is that the motor will operate normally unhooked, because you don't have the load of the transmissions / top, but it's just an uneducated guess. You could also try to unhook the top and see if the motor spins the transmissions in the right direction without the top connected, although I am not sure how that would help, except adding more details to your diagnosis.

Good Luck,

Azzar0.

Thanks for the info, Azzar0. I did unhook both sides of the V-lever from the rod arms and from the push rods and the V-levers kept going in one direction (CCW, I think) no matter if I pressed the button in the "up" or the "down" direction. What is strange is that last week, when I just hooked up the clamshell via the pushrods to the V-lever, I was able to operate the clamshell back and forth (up and down) and the up/down switch was responding correctly. I have not been able to duplicate that this last time.

I can't imagine how putting in new transmissions would help reverse the direction of rotation, but maybe I just don't understand what causes the reversal in direction.

I think I have to look into the big relay on top of the fuse box and into the mysterious relay that I have heard is located behind the driver's side B pillar.

I'll keep you up to date as well as I delve further into this.

Regards, 1schoir.

My daughter forfeited all chance with an incident in my 928 over 20 years ago .... which will remain untold at this time.

Seems like a golden opportunity to give your daughter another chance. Might turn a difficult situation (your surgery and recovery) into an unexpected positive.

Regards, 1schoir.

1schoir,

My vote for post of the year. Seems we can learn about more than just awesome vehicles here. I admire your courage. After all, putting your neck out and making this statement is

'Risky Business'

James:

Thanks for the vote. I meant it sincerely, but when I think back on it, I should have included my other thought which was:

Regardless of what you decide, I wish you a speedy and full recovery.

Regards, 1schoir.

hi there, i'm a newby to this forum. i need help for my 97 boxster 2.5 tiptronic.

my boxster's engine failed on a rainning day, it was towed to a local car electrician and had the fuel pump and the control module (M531) replaced, and re-programmed. after i got the car back, i have expeirenced a few problems since:

central locking doesnt work with my remote (aftermarket), nor my keys, nor the central locking button. I have to lock my car with emergency locking method ( turn the key 3 times) or key lock each door individually. I'm able to use the remote control to unlock though. when i press the remote button, side lights do come up though no horn sound.

other problems are:

driver side window doesnt drop a little when i open the door; sometimes it does drop a bit once the hendle is pulled (both from inside and outside) but as soon as i release the handle, it goes up straight away;

the interior light doesnt ligh up when doors are opened, only lights up when i manually set it to 'always on' position;

I would like to know if above are related to the reprogramming of the control module, or could it be something else. I was told by the auto electrician that the driver side door lock unit may need to be replcaed. would this be the solution or? (btw, i was charged AU$2,500 by him for the job he did)

Maybe i'm wrong, but i have the feeling that all these problems are something to do with the programming. everything were working fine before.

any advice will be very much appreciated.

gaoo

Is it possible that while your car was laid up for repairs some heavy rain or other water source caused some water accumulation beneath the driver's seat. The central alarm and locking functions are governed by the electronic module which is mounted beneath the driver's seat. When it gets wet, it can cause some of the symptoms you describe. A few posters on PPBB have successfully taken the module apart and dried it with a hair dryer, and reassembled it to find everything working again. A few others have tried the same method but were not so fortunate because the water was in there too long, etc...

Perhaps take out the module and take it apart to inspect for moisture. That may give you a place to start or to eliminate as a possible cause.

Regards, 1schoir.

Looks like I'm going to order a glass window top in the next couple of weeks. I belive I asked this bofore but has anyone got a good write up on top replacement, or am I going to be the author of that manual!

I didn't find much in the Porsche tech manuals of use. Point me in a better direction please!

Shawn

Shawn:

A guy named Fred Adler did a nice step by step write up with photos and posted his "manual" on the Boxster Wiki (in PDF format).

I used his instructions when I replaced my top about a month ago. Here is the link: http://boxster.wikia.com/images/e/eb/DIY_B..._Canvas_R_R.pdf

There is another article in the Boxster Wiki that also deals with glass window top replacements for up to '03 model year.

If you do your top and run into questions or problems, drop me an e-mail and I'll be glad to talk you through it. It's not too difficult, but it does take a lot of patience and quite some time.

Regards, 1schoir.

hey folks,

here is the latest on my mysterious windows problem.

i pm'ed helpful renntech member dan hinkebein for help since he previously posted a similiar problem. he kindly pm'ed me back the following which i thought may be helpful for others.

--------------------------

Mustang66,

I posted the following in the thread also.

I don't think the problem your having would be with the top micro switches because the windows are going all the way down. The first switch, when activated, only drops the windows far enough to allow the top to open.

My thought would be that you have a short in the switch in your drivers door. The key lock in the door has a switch that allows you to raise of lowwer the windows from outside the car.

If you turn the key counter-clockwise to unlock the doors and hold it a few seconds, the windows will go down.

If you turn the key clockwise to lock the doors and hold it a few seconds the windows will go up.

That's the switch I would check out.

I think that by inserting somthing into the latch your over riding the command sent by the door switch causing the windows to stop. Kind of like if you press the window switch once to start the auto down then press it again and the window stops.

Dan

-------------------------------

i took dan's suggestion to check the door lock switch. i drive my boxster for pleasure only, i hardly lock my car and i never used the "hold down the key" method to lock/open my windows. so i thought i would just exercise that switch to see if it may be sticky or something. i turned it both directions about 10 times, each time holding it down. i did that on both doors, they both have the same feature. well, i am happy to report that after that exercise, my windows are not coming up on their own anymore. it's been a couple of days, the problem would have came up by now. i guest a word of advise is to exercise that switch once in a while to prevent what happened to me.

thanks to all the help, hope i would'nt have to come back to this thread with anymore bad news.

thanks 1schoir for the plastic clip info. that's good to know. i learned a lot from u guys.

later.

mustang66

Great work, Mustang 66! It's amazing what a little perseverance (and a lot of hard work) will do.

Regards, 1schoir.

well, i'm not TP or Mark, but i have a question. ;)

this sounds like a transmission problem at first read. but if you are using a drill to spin the cables (which turn the transmissions) and the top works with the drill, then maybe it's a conv cable motor problem? or maybe a relay malfunction?

i would remove the cables from the conv cable motor and put something in there (like a drill bit or something) so you can watch the rotation to see if it changes direction. that's what it sounds like is happening.

just thinking out loud...

The top works with drills hooked up to the cables and it also operated from the almost completely open position all the way up to the almost closed position (about 6 to 8 inches from the windshield), when it started cycling back and forth again.

I willl see if I can dig up something like a speedometer cable to stick into the cable motor so I can watch the rotation as you suggested.

Regards, 1schoir.

Bought the car more than a year ago, bought a hardtop shortly thereafter. Car is MY97 with low mileage, and I've gotten pretty good at taking the top up and down manually. About 2 months ago, I replaced the convertible top canvas (car came with a diagonal slash in the cloudy vinyl window) and that part came out excellent although it took two days, so I decided to try to get everything else working.

The convertible top never worked in the automatic mode, and judging from the crease in the clamshell, I checked the cables (after reading Tool Pants' posts on the subject) and found that they were barely sticking out (one about 3/8 and the other one about 1/8). I removed the metal ferules with a little heat, cut the outer sheaths, reinstalled and re-dimpled the ferules and got the requisite 3/4" of square metal cable sticking out. The motor turns and the transmissions are the original, old style.

I removed the transmissions, dissassembled them, lubed them up, reassembled them after counting the number of teeth on each one (50), re-installed them.

When they were apart, I used the top motor to spin each cable so that the marks in the center of the outside of the housing matched up (as a starting point). I saw some info on this forum and decided to try this approach as a starting point.

With the marks lined up, I only had to turn the psgr side one for a few seconds to get the V-levers in an identical position to each other.

I hooked up the white ball joints and tried to operate just the top (without hooking up the black pushrods on the clamshell). Started with the top closed, but unlatched. The windows went down halfway when I undid the latch. The top started to open, but, after it got about 8 inches from the top of the windshield, it just started cycling back and forth (in an arc of about 4 inches) and it did that regardless of whether I pushed the button in the up or the down direction.

After playing with that for a while, I used drills to power the top almost all the way down by spinning the cables. After the top was almost all the way down, I pressed the "up" button and the top started to close. When it got to about 6 inches from the windshield, it started to cycle again, back and forth in a 4 inch arc.

Again it would not respond any differently when I pushed the "down" button. I disconnected the front rod arms from the top and connected the clamshell with the pushrods to the V-lever. That operated the clamshell to the down position, but, not only would it not go back up, but the V-levers would only move in one direction regardless of whether I pushed the "up" or the "down" button.

I hooked up the cables to drills again and I got the clamshell up and disconnected and removed the V-levers. I am back to operating the top manually for now.

My questions (maybe Tool Pants or Mark in Sunnyvale will have some answers) are:

1. Have you seen something like this in your experience with these tops?

2. What is good starting point as far as the location of the half moon gear with the top almost closed.

3. Any suggestions on how I might proceed?

Thanks in advance.

Regards, 1schoir.

The idle speed of my engine is sometimes a little unhealthy and having read a few posts on different forums, I thought that I'd try cleaning my MAF to see if that would help.

The torx bits required are the security ones with the hole in the middle so I bought a set.

I thought that the size was T20.

Now the set I've got says TS20 which I assumed would be OK but it appears to be ever so slightly too big.

Have I bought the wrong size or am I just really unlucky and have bought a dodgy cheapo set?

At least on the early model cars (MY97-MY99), the torx bit that is required is actually a security torx bit. The size is T20 or, more correctly TS20.

If you look at the head of the two screws, you will see that there is a protrusion in the middle of the screws which makes the security bit necessary.

It could just be that the set you bought is just slightly off.

Regards, 1schoir.

Well, after 4 years and 40k miles with my 2000 Cab, I've finally found something to complain about.

I had an procedure known as "hip resurfacing" performed this week. The pre-op info included the fact that most can drive within 2 - 3 weeks. It also, however, included a great deal of warning regarding the possibility of a dislocation during the several month time to total recovery. High on the "don't" list was: "drive a car with low seating".

Of course, I assumed that would not apply to me. After all, I was active .... a runner .... worked out with weights daily. My recovery would not be bound by the restrictions "normal" hip suffers must follow. At the pre-op meeting, I addressed the issue with the doc's assistant. I deigned that I would wait as much as 3 weeks .... to show my patience. She asked what kind of car. My wife, already worried, interjected, "a Porsche".

"A Cayenne"?

"No, a little one" (the wife again).

"Well, it could be as long as 3 months before you can safely drive that car. (actually, I could drive it without a problem. Its the getting in and out that does the damage.) I will be flying airplanes long before I will be able to drive my Cab.

There are 3 absolutely prohibited movements / positions during the recovery. 1. bending more than 90 degrees, upper body to thigh. 2. raising the thigh within 90 degrees of the upper body. 3. crossing the affected (right, in my case) leg over the other and/or rotating the toe of that foot inward.

I tried, the night before surgery, but could find absolutely no way to get into, or exit my car without violating at least one, if not all of these restrictions.

So, I'm stuck .... and mourning. I ride shotgun in my wife's Landcruiser, where I can slide out like a kid at a water park. I will have to ask my son-in-law to drive my car occasionally. My wife is afraid to accept the responsibility. My daughter forfeited all chance with an incident in my 928 over 20 years ago .... which will remain untold at this time.

Seems like a golden opportunity to give your daughter another chance. Might turn a difficult situation (your surgery and recovery) into an unexpected positive.

Regards, 1schoir.

I have a 99 996.

I know this has been covered many times :eek: but how do I clean my MAF? Can you direct me to a DIY thread?

Thanks in advance for your input.

Phillipj

Phillip:

Read Mike Focke's Boxster Pages, he has a very comprehensive page on MAF's, including how to clean them, what type of cleaner to use, etc, with photos.

Here is the link: http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/checkeng...ssairflowsensor

Go down to the part that is entitled "The Do It Yourself Guide to MAF Cleaning and/or Replacement". That should cover everything you need to know.

Regards, 1schoir.

hey 1schoir,

thanks for the quick response. before i read your reply, i actually did open the cover and looked at the microswitch. it looks fine to my eyes. i like to go over to dan's thread and ask more questions about testing it.

i also confirmed that this switch is definitely related to my window problems. when i started the car & idled with the top down for a few minutes, both windows began to come up on their own without me touching anything. i stick my finger all the way into the latch microswitch, the windows would immediately stop. as soon as i took my finger out, they started to go up again.

in the mean time, i made a small piece of soft plastic and stuck it in the switch. now i will see if the strange window behaviors would go away. i know that's not fixing the problem, just going around it, but if it works and if repairing or replacing the switch is too much, i may just keep that piece of plastic there when i have the top down.

thanks again. may be see you over at dan's thread. i will be back here to close out this thread, one way or another.

If for some reason you end up not repairing or replacing the microswitch, there is a Porsche part that serves the same purpose as the small piece of soft plastic that you have made. It's a red plastic clip, and it clicks onto the microwitch to prevent the top from accidentally being actuated when someone is using the "speedster humps". I don't know the part number, but I have seen the part. It looks a little bit like those small plastic can openers that people hang on their keychains.

Regards, 1schoir.

Was about to look into replacing my 02 sensors from oxygensensors.com and later that day I get the following error codes

P1276 (manuf. control. Fuel air metering)

P0153 (slow response Bank 2 sensor 1)

I can't find any info on 1276 at all.

any assistance before I replace the parts would be appreciated!

2000 Boxster S 40K miles.

p.s.

does the Bentley manual have info on this. I ordered that thing months ago from Amazon and they keep delaying...

Your second code sounds like an "aging" sensor which I understand does not light up the CEL but is still defective in that the aging sensor reacts more slowly than it should and sends "delayed" info to the computer.

The correct O2 sensor for the earlier Boxsters (not sure if it covers MY2000) is Bosch part number 13806 and costs about $148 on oxygensensors.com, with free shipping. When you remove the original part from the car, you will see the Porsche Part number AND the Bosch Part Number stamped on the side of the sensor.

There is someone on eBay selling what they call "same as OEM" O2 sensor for Porsche for $98 plus shipping. They state that the connectors are the same as OEM and that no cutting of wires or splicing is necessary.

Regards, 1schoir.

P.S. I have same problem with Amazon.com and the Bentley manual, although they advertised that it was "available". Can't beat the price, though.

thanks 1schoir. for confirming that there is probably no other micro switches that effect the windows. i begin to think its the latch micro switch as well. i plan to take off the cover and see how the switch looks like. if it is complicated, i will need help. if you don't mind, find me the post(s) about repairing that switch, it would be great.

i can also confirm that the swicth is the problem by driving around with the top down but stick something in the latch micro switch to make it think the top is up and the hook is in. if the windows do not go up erratically, then it must be the switch, right? i have not been driving around with the top up much but i am pretty sure when the top is up, everything is normal.

now i know what the 2 lenses behind the window buttons are for, i don't have seat warmers.

thanks again 1schoir. i'll be back to report.

I found the post, which was written up by "Dan Hinkebein" on 19AUG06. It's very thorough and it has some helpful photos as well. Here is the link: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=10458.

You are right, if you keep the microwsitch pressed in and the windows don't go up erratically, it must be the switch, or more correctly if you refer to the post by Dan Hinkebein, it's one of the soldered joints that has "split".

BTW, I posted this for someone else on PPBB and they managed to just heat the soldered joint for just a few seconds and their repair was successful.

Good Luck!

Regards, 1schoir.

hi azzar0,

my "top open" light on the dash board goes away as soon as the top and clamshell are fully down and the drive motor stops. thats the way it should, right?

i tried re-programming the window as you suggested. i did it with the top down and again with the top up, does not seem to make any difference. is this re-programming method in the owners manual?

another clue to my problem is that both my windows go up fully when the top is fully down and the dash board light goes off. i don't remember that before i fixed my push rods. all you long time 97 boxster owners out there, does your windows start to go fully up when the top reaches its fully down position?

does anyone know if there are sensors in the transmissions (that pushes the top and clamshell up and down)? could it be that my transmission(s) is not in the correct position so that the sensor(s), if there is any, is making the windows go up.

one more symptom, when i am driving with the top down, my windows (some times both, mostly the driver side only) would go up on their own randomly. could this be a sensor problem or could it be an electrical problem. would a short of some sort cause the windows to go up? the previous owner put in such elaborate speaker systems, the doors were really worked on to get all the wiring and speakers in. if this is not related to my convertible top repair, it would be a real coincidence for the windows to act up just as i have troble with the top push rods.

another question: the 2 infra red eyes on top of the winshield right next to the light and the hinge where the top catches on, what should be in there? my plastic lenses fell off, i looked inside, i don't see anything that looks like sensors. looks like an empty bracket. is that for cars with alarms only? i don't have an alarm. it is not for sensors related to windows, is it? there is 2 such infra red lenses in the middle console by the parking brake as well. what are they for? i did not open them up and look. are they used for windows?

i am a little frustrated here. any help is appreciated.

Mustang 66

I have a few answers, but not all:

Last question first:

On a MY97, just to the right of the handbrake lever, and just to the rear of the "ashtray" are two spaces which are either occupied by "lenses" which are blanks or, if you have the heated seats option the two spots are occupied by the rocker type switches to turn on the heat settings to the seat (either to "off" = no light, "warm" = yellow light dot, or "hot" = red light dot). So if you don't have the heated seats option, that is probably what you are referring to as the two "infrared" lenses in that location. For reference, they are a mirror image of the power window switches which are located just forward of the "ashtray."

As far as the windows going all the way up... I've been riding around for more than a year without the clamshell push rods attached and the clamshell occasionally jostling up slightly when the roof is down and the clamshell is down and that has no effect on the windows, as they function properly.

I just replaced my top and am now in the process of working on getting the top to work in the automatic mode. Having taken the transmissions apart, I did not find any sensors (or any other electrical or electronic parts for that matter) in them or in the immediate surrounding area, so I do not believe that the "Top Open" light is related in any way to the transmissions. It is also not actuated by the little lever that sits on top of the motor (at the center under the clamshell). It may be connected to some rotation of the motor as it spins the cables, but I'm not 100% sure. To answer your question though, the "Top Open" light should go off when the top and clamshell are in the proper position (with the convertible top either completely up or completely down and the clamshell resting on the top or the back of the top) if your transmissions and the motor have spun to the correct position. By the way, if you need to reset that light, you can disconnect the battery for a minute and then start over to determine whether everything is in the correct position and the light remains off when it is supposed to go off. Just be sure to have your radio code handy.

Your odd window action may be related to the microswitch that is located up inside the receptacle where the latch locks the roof closed. To test it, try to push and hold the microswitch in with your index finger while you press the power window button up. You will probably find that with the microswitch pushed in, the window will go all the way up. The microswitch has been known to have one of its solder connections "split" apart and then it becomes intermittent. This could explain why your windows go up randomly when you are driving around (from the bumps). I believe there is a post somewhere that shows how to test and repair the switch but I can't locate it right now. If you think it will help, let me know and I will track it down.

Regards, 1schoir.

Be absolutely sure that if your neighbor is going to weld anything on the car, you make sure that your battery is disconnected. The last thing you want to do is to fry any of the expensive electronics in your Boxster. Keep in mind that you will need the radio code after you reconnect the battery.

Will stay tuned.

Regards, 1schoir.

Thanks for reminding me, 1schoir! I would have kept the battery connected... I do have the radio code and tested it to make sure it works when I took out the radio to test a Pioneer. I haven't decided what I am going to replace the factory radio with yet, so I put it back in for the time being. I was thinking of getting a JVC b/c I have a JVC 12 CD changer already, but Pioneer is better. Of course, an audio upgrade involves amp, sub, and speakers upgrades as well, without those JVC will probably be just as good as the Pioneer...

With all the $$ you are going to have saved by fixing the top yourself, you should treat yourself to some nice tunes.

Regards, 1schoir.

P0137 Oxygen Sensor After Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Signal Wire Short Circuit to Ground or Incorrect Voltage

Potential causes:

Short circuit in signal wire to ECM ground

DME control module output stage short to ground

Fault area:

- Wiring harness or housing ground.

- Oxygen sensor

- DME control module or housing ground.

Troubling shooting:

Check and repair wiring harness.

Replace O2 sensor.

Wiring harness testing

1. Remove all four O2 connectors.

2. Switch on the ignition.

3. Connect voltmeter at sleeve to pins 3 and 4 of O2 connector 1 after catalytic converter.

Display: approx. 450 mV

4. Connect voltmeter at sleeve to pin 3 and ground.

Display: approx. 720 mV

If the measurement according to items 3 and 4 does not show the specified values, remove DME control module connector and check wiring for short to ground.

If no short to ground can be detected, replace DME control module.

Sensor testing:

1. Remove O2S connector 1 after catalytic converter.

2. Connect ohmmeter on pin side to pin 3 and to O2 housing.

Display: infinite ohms

3. Connect ohmmeter on pin side to pin 4 and to O2 housing.

Display: infinite ohms

4. Connect ohmmeter on pin side to pins 4 and 2.

Display: infinite ohms

5. Connect ohmmeter on pin side to pins 3 and 2.

Display: infinite ohms

If any test fails replace the O2 sensor(s) that failed.

UPDATE:

Tested wiring harness as per procedure above, got correct voltage readings.

Did not test, but replaced 02 Sensor AFTER catalytic converter on psgr side (cylinder bank 1-3). (Bought Bosch Part #13806, about $150).

Cleared CEL and it has not come back on since. Now about 75 miles.

So, it would appear that the Durametric readout is incorrect when it points to 02 Sensor BEFORE catalytic converter.

Thanks, Loren.

Regards, 1schoir.

I was referring to the V lever. You push the button for a second or so, what this does is it re-engages the gears. When the gearpops out, you've reached the maximum "down" position. Re engaging and pushing the up button puts you in a known point. So now you know that if you push up to allow you to reconnect the ball joints, you will be in the correct "top is down" position for the gear.

-Mark

Mark:

When you say "After the gear pops out, you spin the lever in the opposite direction (if down is CW, spin it ccw).", which lever must be spun in the opposite direction?

Also, when you have someone push the button in the "up" direction, how long do they push the button?

Regards, 1schoir.

Thanks for clarification, Mark.

Regards, 1schoir.

Is it possible that your half-moon gear on your driver's side has gone to the end of its travel as a result of you pushing the button and that it is thus so out of synch that it keeps "popping" because it has reached past the last tooth on the half-moon gear?

I would reccommend unbolting and taking apart the two transmissions (only three small phillips-head screws and a plastic cover plate) and then matching up the "faulty" (driver's side in your case) half moon gear to the correct distance of travel that is showing up on the psgr side half-moon gear. It's a simple matter to remove the two transmissions and then, with the psgr side cable disconnected from the motor, use the button in the correct direction (up or down) to get the driver side half-moon gear to the correct spot.

Then put everything back together and see if both sides work in synchronicity.

It's worth a shot before you go to the expense and extra work involved in putting in the new style transmissions.

Regards, 1schoir.

Thanks for your thoughts, 1schoir. Unfortunately the problem is deeper than a simple out of synch issue. I posted my findings here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;#entry75534

I will updated that post as I move forward. Right now I am waiting for the parts to arrive.

I read your post from the link. Wow! Sorry to learn what you have uncovered. However, it seems like you are on the right path and that you will be able to resolve it. Be absolutely sure that if your neighbor is going to weld anything on the car, you make sure that your battery is disconnected. The last thing you want to do is to fry any of the expensive electronics in your Boxster. Keep in mind that you will need the radio code after you reconnect the battery.

Will stay tuned.

Regards, 1schoir.

azzar0,

I'm not sure if this will help but when I fixed my top, I got my half moon stuck in the same manner you described. The gear can only move one way, if installed incorrectly the half gear will stop moving after an up or down cycle or pop out. If you open the transmission and you don't see any damage, then it's fine.

The way I fixed this is disconnected all the joints and lever. I had someone press the down button until the half moon gear jumps out of the track. I took note of the direction of motion (CW or CCW. After the gear pops out, you spin the lever in the opposite direction (if down is CW, spin it cw). Then have someone push the up button. This resynchs the gears. Now, when you spin the transmission to re-synch the two sides all motions must be similar to when you're pushing the button up. When you reassemble the the joints, you must do it with the top in the down position.

-Mark

Mark:

When you say "After the gear pops out, you spin the lever in the opposite direction (if down is CW, spin it cw).", which lever must be spun in the opposite direction?

Also, when you have someone push the button in the "up" direction, how long do they push the button?

Regards, 1schoir.

I am thinking of replacing my 98 top transmissions with the upgraded type (2000 and up).

why? if they are working i would leave them alone. if one (or both) of them break, then i would replace them.

update: (just read your other thread). if the half-moon gear keeps coming off, then yeah, it might be wise to replace them.

Yea, one of the old gears is 'weak' - it keeps popping... I am not sure why, but it looks like the passenger side is strong, it could almost pull everything on its own, but the driver side can't keep up, and that's what is causing the problem. I found the newer transmissions (pair) on eBay for $500, pulled from a MY00 or MY01. It looks like a good deal, because Sunset charges $368 a piece just for the transmission, plus I have to get the bolts and cables separately (another $75 or so for all of them). I don't even want to know what my local dealer charges - perhaps somewhere around $500 a piece and $100 for each cable (I'll ask, just out of curiosity).

Thanks

Is it possible that your half-moon gear on your driver's side has gone to the end of its travel as a result of you pushing the button and that it is thus so out of synch that it keeps "popping" because it has reached past the last tooth on the half-moon gear?

I would reccommend unbolting and taking apart the two transmissions (only three small phillips-head screws and a plastic cover plate) and then matching up the "faulty" (driver's side in your case) half moon gear to the correct distance of travel that is showing up on the psgr side half-moon gear. It's a simple matter to remove the two transmissions and then, with the psgr side cable disconnected from the motor, use the button in the correct direction (up or down) to get the driver side half-moon gear to the correct spot.

Then put everything back together and see if both sides work in synchronicity.

It's worth a shot before you go to the expense and extra work involved in putting in the new style transmissions.

Regards, 1schoir.

Exactly as you said. They see 400 deg easily and that will not bother them at all. Don't coat anything that moves and scrape off the excess anywhere it shouldn't be. Other then that your on the money. Besides 10 mins at 400 won't get the metal all that hot as it's convection heat which will not move that much heat into the caliper in only 10 mins. Conduction like having the heat from the brake warm the calipers will heat up the metal way faster as it's direct contact transfer. Not only that, aluminum will cool very quickly once taken away from the heat source. They can handle that no problem.

Are you sure 400 degrees won't have any effect on the outer rubber dust seals that are around the caliper pistons?

Just wondering if it would be better to remove those first because I am thinking of powder-coating my calipers as well.

Regards, 1schoir.

i apoligize for not reading all the threads and not checking the cables, etc.. i was afraid to move the top up and down after i disconnected the push rods for the top and the clamshell (except the driver side top red push rod). i was hoping to get the 2 new push rods with the white connectors, replace them and waw-la, everything will be working. maybe i am too nieve.

the push rods i ordered from sunset is $42 and change each. i really don't know what i am getting. i know the end of the push rod where the plastic connector is attached can be removed from the main part of the push rod by removing just one bolt. i actually did that already, removed that part from the passenger side, where my red connector broke. i guess i will wait for the parts to arrive and see. it's too late to call sunset, the order is enroute. if they are as good as you guys say they are, they would have asked be more questions if they did not know which part i needed. when i explained my problem, they seemed to know right away what i needed.

thanks for all the feedback. when i get the part i will let you know what i got. i probably will need more help with sync'ing the transmissions later. i was too anxious and push the button too many times after the connector broke. did'nt know better. it will be a miracle if everything works after replacing the push rods.

stay tune.

From your original post, it sounds like you ordered and will be receiving the correct parts. Your old "plastic connectors" are in red plastic and the updated parts are made of a less brittle, and apparently more durable white plastic.

It would be less confusing if you referred to the part that has the plastic connector (red or white) on the end as the "rod arm" (which is attached at the forward end of the V-Lever) . The part which looks like a black hydraulic cylinder and is attached at the rearmost ball of the V-Lever is properly called a "pushrod".

The pushrod is attached at its other end to the arm of the clamshell (towards the rear).

The rod arm is attached at its other end to the convertible top frame (towards the front).

That being said, the part numbers that I provided in a post above is for the push rods (they run around $70 each).

The rod arms that you need cost $40-$50 each, so I am sure that you are getting the right parts.

Hope that eases your mind somewhat.

Regards, 1schoir.

My information came from the Porsche OBD II 5.2.2 Service Manual (a 1997 Boxster would be DME 5.2.2).

Yes, the Durametric identifies the 1997 Boxster as "Motronic 5.2.2 (Engine DME)".

Guess I will try the procedures you outlined on both of the O2 Sensors, i.e., the one AHEAD OF and the one AFTER the catalytic converter on the psgr side.

Thanks again.

Regards, 1schoir.