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stronbl

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About stronbl

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    Contributing Member
  • Birthday December 21

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    Male

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  • From
    SF Bay Area, CA USA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2013 Porsche Cayenne Diesel
    2010 911 Carrera 4S Cabriolet
    2008 BMW 335i Convertible

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  1. I agree with the antenna as the prime suspect. I have a 2010 997 with XM radio and every since I have owned it (I bought it new) the XM reception was not as good as in our other cars. I thought is was the shape of the car - it's a cab so the antenna is on the rear next to the spoiler. Then I thought is was the radio receiver Porsche uses. But we got a Cayenne and the XM reception was excellent. Then one day as I was prepping the car for a drive, somehow I built up a static charge and accidentally touch the antenna. Big shock and crackle and the XM would not work. I took it to the dealer and they agreed the antenna was bad, fortunately still under warranty. Upon replacement of the antenna my XM reception was very much improved, in fact, areas where it used to cut out the signal stays strong and is uninterrupted. Sorry for the long explanation, but I would replace the antenna. It's a simple repair and the cover pops off so no need for a re-paint. Good luck.
  2. Update and remedy: Ok, my CD is fixed and hopefully leak free. As noted above this was indeed an engine and transmission out job, including air suspension in the front. We replaced the bell housing cover. The explanation to PAG was the cover was slightly warped and was not providing a proper seal. Although the locktite sealant was present after removal of the cover, there was one particular area where it appeared to be a "breach" in the sealant and was the area of the leak. This is a complicated and time consuming job, but very doable for properly trained service department. Of course the bell housing cover was not available in the US so one had to come from Germany. Attached photos shows the area of leak (yellow circle) and engine timing chains with bell housing cover removed. Once the CD was put back together, I cannot tell any difference in the vehicle - engine, transmission, etc. Also I want to says thanks to Gunter and his team at Fremont Porsche for a great job and working with me through this involved process.
  3. This is the exact same scenario I went through, language too. My shop needed to have air tight documentation that it was actually a leak and not a seep. I had them clean everything up and I drove another 100+ miles and brought it back in. Fluid appears again but not enough to drip onto the under body panels. So we added dye and I drove for 800+ miles. This time we had leaks onto to body panels and they agreed it was an issue. Given that the remedy is dropping the engine, I can see why they want to have air tight proof there is a leak and not a seep, should PCNA question the expense. I bet if you have them clean it up, and drive a while, eventually you too will have a leak. May take a few 1000 miles but eventually it will qualify as a leak - the good news is, if it is like mine, the CD is still fully drivable and the amount of fluid that evetually leaks is minimal, a few ounces in total. Just watch your oil level just in case. When I get the work done in mid August I'll report back what was fixed and/or replaced. I suspect there are some bad seals or gaskets and maybe some bolts have backed out but I'll know for sure in about a month.
  4. My build was completed on 10/1/2012 !!! Too funny. Dealer will pull the engine mid August when I have time to leave it with them. They'll check the dye markings and start replacing seals, gaskets, and whatever else they deem necessary to remedy the leak. Estimated a full week's worth of work. Covered by warranty.
  5. Gnat, sorry to hear you have a similar or same issue as I am having, albeit less volume of fluid. My dealer/service manager and I agreed to a process to try and isolate this issue. We all agree there is a leak or a seep (I tend to think it is a leak but I suppose that is a definition) and they definitely want to fix it, it's just we are not sure of the cause/source. In any event he added some tracer and I'm to drive at least 400 miles and then we'll re-check the leak/seep area. Since this is about the lowest point, fluid will collect there even if it is not the actual leak spot. With the tracer we are hopeful we will isolate the source and start a remedy. I'm at 700 miles since the tracer so I need to call and bring it in so we can take a look and see if there is more to learn. I'll try to get in this week and report back. On a positive note, I've not had to add any oil since the last change (2600 miles ago) and the transmission and differentials all seem to be working fine. Nothing out of the normal. I wonder if this could be a seeping issue associated with the diesel motor and not a precursor of a bigger problem, he says optimistically ....
  6. How about key #2? Does it have same behavior as key #1 with the three buttons? I get the confirmation beep each time, all three buttons and each key. If key #2 has the same problem, maybe there is a bad fuse for the comfort settings. If you have access to a Durametric you could try to see if there are any codes or a reset. Outside this it may be a dealer trip is warranted.
  7. A short update for anyone following this thread. After a week of driving the CD, I pulled the engine protection covers off and examined the leak area again. There is still a leak but it is small. I've attached another picture. There was no fluid on the under body panel after the week. My driving during the week was a few trips around town and daily commute to/from work. City streets and short highway trips. No towing loads or heavy cargo. Upon examination of the leak area, I attempted to trace back to the leaking source. As far as I could tell, it appears the leak source is the interface at the bell housing. On the attached picture I highlighted this area with a yellow box. I could see fluid in the gap shown by the yellow box up to the left most bolt. The droplet in the picture is formed at that location due to it being the lowest point of the bell housing. So my original thought being a transmission leak seems to be correct. If I had to guess at this point I'd say it is either an internal seal gone bad or a failed gasket around the housing. Either way it would seem the transmission will need to be dropped to find the true culprit and remedy the leak. I'll be taking it to the dealer soon. Thanks for the comments and suggestions so far. If anyone else has experienced a leak like this, I'd most definitely like to hear about it. Hopefully you haven't and mine is simply an anomaly to the CD. It's been a great vehicle so far.
  8. Yes, I have used the Street/Track pads, front and rear. Got them as a "test" replacement for OEM pads and track usage. Here are my conclusions: 2010 C4S is the vehicle pads were tested. I do all my own brake work since it is so easy on the 997-2. For track --- Much better than OEM, but you MUST bed them prior to track use. CC has a bedding procedure that I followed. Brake pedal has a firm but not hard feel. Solid may be a better description. they need to heat up to be properly effective (this is true for many other track oriented pads). You can drag the brake on a warm-up lap with your left foot or you can do some moderate brake applications during warm-up. You will notice immediately when the brakes are at a proper track temp due to the increased bite. They may squeal if you do not use anti-squeal backing shims or paste. I used Porsche OEM anti-squeal pads and they work ok but I still get some squeal on heavy braking corners. They are not too severe on the brake disks, but you will need to monitor the impact. Front pads lasted me 4 track events (Laguna Seca, Sonoma, Thunderhill, and Buttonwillow) before I had to replace them. Rear pads are still fine. Minimal brake dust, but not zero. For street - Prior to first track event, street use (after bedding) was fine. Very little brake dust and stopping was adequate even at cool pad temps. As pad temps increased, bite was excellent. No squeal (again, I used OEM anti-squeal pads). After initial track event, I found the pads to have a slight "glazed" feel when cold/cool. Braking is fine as long as you don't have to make an emergency stop. I tested an emergency stop and found I needed a lot more brake pedal force to make the stop. I then did some short stops to heat up the pads and once warmed up, they stopped great. Perhaps re-bedding them would fix this, but I was too lazy to do so since I could just heat them up from a few frequent stops. I think my track runs heated up the anti-squeal pads glue so the left front became unglued, and as a result I got a squeal from that pad only under a light stop. For example, as you release brake pedal pressure when you bring the car to its final stop at a traffic light or stop sign. A firmer pedal pressure eliminates the squeal. I was about to take the pad out and re-glue the anti-squeal but I waited too long and ended up changing front pads anyway. Brake dust is very minor, much less that OEM and of course less than at track. It is not zero dust, but very manageable to me. As a note, I also use the Armor All Wheel Protectant which also seems to help keep the brake dust to a minimum. I'm on my second set of front CC pads, same type Street/Track combo and will continue my evaluation. But so far I like them and their price point. They are very good on the track, lot's of braking/stopping confidence, firm but not hard pedal feel. The street usage is OEM level. Brake dust is minimum. Hope this helps. I may have left out some things so feel free to ask me if you have questions.
  9. Thanks for the info. I originally thought transmisson too but after discussion with the dealer wasn't so sure. I'll keep monitoring and then head back to the dealer probably next week if the leak is still there. Maybe I'll have something new to report.
  10. I checked the torque on the filter cover and it was good, couldn't see any oil leaks from that area. Oil level from previous oil change was at most 1/4 L down which I added, very minor. I'm beginning to wonder about some sort of gasket seal leak on the motor. I also just got back my oil analysis from Blackstone and they said it looked good but the viscosity was on the low side, but not an issue. Given the rest of their analysis they concluded everything seemed ok. The mystery contunes ...
  11. 2013 Cayenne diesel, 15,970 miles. Just completed oil change #3 (May 24th) and I noticed fluid has leak onto the transmission bell housing (no leaks previous two oil changes). At first I thought I might have a transmission or transfer leak, but the fluid is motor oil or gear oil as it is quite dark (almost black) and since the bottom of the bell housing is the low point it makes sense it would collect in that spot. There was a fair amount of fluid on the underbody engine guard, about 1/2 of a blue Scott's shop towel after clean-up. I also cleaned around the housing and electrical plug area and put everything back together. Since the CD is my daily driver I drove for the next week and checked underneath again (May 31st). More fluid, same color and character as the week before. The attached picture is from the may 31st inspection. You can see it is a slow leak, but a leak nonetheless. I took it to my Porsche service center and they confirmed fluid but since they had no maintenance record (I do my own simple service -- oil, brakes etc) they were not ready to make a warranty claim just yet. They too cleaned it up and we agreed I'd drive for another 2 weeks and check it again (with more pictures to document the issue). If fluid leak continues then I'll bring it back in and we'll try again for a remedy via warranty. I'll check it again this weekend and see how bad it is, and if I can trace the fluid upward to a possible source. While I wait, I have a couple questions for the forum: 1) anyone else experience a fluid leak similar to this - probably motor oil - and if so, where or what was the source/cause? 2) ideas as to what may be the cause - engine gaskets/seals gone bad, etc. Thanks. I appreciate any insights and/or suggestions.
  12. I was doing some maintenance work and hooked up my Durametric and tested all modules. I got a fault in the PDK module I had not had or seen before. It was Durametric Fault Code: 50200, which the folks at Durametric said was described as U0418: CAN fault, brake. Anyone have more information or details about this? As an aside, the PDK seems to be just fine in all phases of operation, so I am wondering if this is a non-event. Thanks.
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