ar38070

It is all legal mumbo jumbo. Just like you are not supposed to patch a tire. As far as mixing brands as long as you understand how the car handles with mixed tires then as long as you are comfortable with it then do it.

Polar moment of inertia. Resistance or lack there of to rotation or twist. In Boxster parlance refers to the center of gravity of the car and the relative location of mass about the CG. Since a major mass of the car (the motor) is located very close to the CG the boxster has a low polar moment of inertia (compared to a 911 for example where the motor is hanging out back behind the rear axle). Low polar moment of inertia is "good" as it means that the car is more easily able to change direction. Low polar moment of inertia is "bad" as the car may change direction too easily i.e. spin. High polar moment of inertia is "good" as the car is more "stable" because it resist changes in direction. High polar moment of inertia is "bad" as once the car starts changing directions it wants to keep changing direction i.e. spin. On the other hand a polar moment could just be when you are really cold for a second or two. :cold:

The only definitive answer is to try it and see what happens. If you like the results great. If not now you know. However before you try this you may want to experiment with tire pressures. If you were running the pirellis and the michelins at the same pressures then you need to experiment with pressure changes first. It is unlikely that the two tires would run "best" at the same pressures.

Not even. I believe a GT3-RS motor needs a minor rebuild at 25-30 hours and a major at 50. This is hours not miles. This is less than 5000 miles. When an engineer builds something, if they are smart, they build in safety margins. Typically 20-50%. Applied to an M96 motor that means 360-450hp. Now the GT3-RS motor puts out 425hp with a stronger block, better connecting rods, no exhaust or catalytic converters, race gas etc. so 400hp for a M96 motor is probably about it. I am no motor engineer but to do something like that probably means getting more fuel/air into the cylinders. That means free flowing intake and exhaust manifolds, free flowing exhaust, high lift camshafts, remapped ecu, etc. Assuming that this results in the wanted HP gain in all liklihood the idle is shot and it probably makes too much noise for the street. Now with that much power we now have to worry about whether or not the connecting rods and pins are going to hold everything together because one way to make power is more rpm (from remapped ecu). If they hold on will the transmission? Will the clutch? Will the radiators be able to cope with the added heat? Now will the entire drivetrain last 100,000 miles? Or are you going to ask Porsche to warranty it if it breaks? :D Lastly whether it breaks or not is also a function of how it is used. A GT3-RS motor needs to be rebuilt often as it is run nears it maximum output for most of the time between rebuilds. If you were to take a M96 motor, tweak it to 360+hp, but then just took in on the highway and cruised in 6th gear at 70mph, it would probably last for 100K miles. If you took it to the track every weekend and put 200-300 track miles on it that way every weekend, it probably would not last anywhere near as long. I can guarantee you that if the cooling system were not up to the task that the motor would blow up pretty fast.

The 997's and 987's do not come with a high pressure spare. Only a can of pressurized goop. "I've always wanted to do this myself. How do you peel the tire off at home? " With the patch kits you don't. You patch from the outside. 1) Take off the wheel 2) Find the hole and remove the nail, etc. 3) Roughen the hole with the reamer that comes with the kit 4) Using the insert tool, take a plug, cover it with glue and insert 5) Trim off excess plug 6) Mount wheel and re-inflate This patch is not as good as a "T" patch that is installed from the inside. However the few times that I have had to do it I have never had them leak after the repair. If you are paranoid to take it someplace and have them do it "right" or you get a new tire. "what type of tire inflator did you use...I've seen them also, they plug into your cig lighter and blow up your tire...seems like a lot of work on the roadside..." Just your garden variety tire inflator. Takes about 10 minutes to re-inflate. Yes it takes 30-40 minutes but your only other options are the canned stuff or calling for a tow (which will take 30-60 miunutes just for the truck to arrive). The one time I used canned stuff I had vibration problems afterwards and had to replace the tire. The mechanic bitched about the mess the canned stuff had made.

The last year of the 996 C2, C4, C4S (2004) all had the same hp, 320. From and engineering perspective, you never operate anything at 100% rating if you are looking for reliability. The m96 motor is probably good for 350-400 hp if you were to tweek everything. And it would probably blow up after 20-50K miles.

Alternately get a tire patch kit from K-mart, Wal-mart, Kragens et al, $5, and a small compressor, $15. Takes a little longer to do, 30 min, 15 min to unmount/mount the wheel and 15 to let the patch dry. Does not mess up the inside of the tire/wheel.

The stock porsche batteries are not that good. You did not say if they warrantied the battery or not. Recently some dealers have been saying if you do not drive your car x miles per month then they wont warranty the battery. If your car is going to sit for a while and you cannot put a trickle charger on it because you do not have access to power then 1) use a solar powered charger or 2) disconnect the battery (if you do this do not lock the hood as you wont be able to open it with the battery disconnected). If you have to replace the battery again on your dime then check the archives for DIY info.

I still do not see how an LSD and PSM would work together. I think I will post that to PCNA. PSM limits are quite high. When it kicks in you will know. As I said earlier if you want to experience what it is like put your car on a skid pad. The light does work. I have seen it lots of times. :D

You have a weird car. Option 220 is not listed in the order guide on this site for a '04 C4S cab.

Just to be sure, have you checked the manual? It will show you which indicator should light if there is one.

Yes I also heard that. The solution supposedly is to turn off the donor car first before disconnecting the cables. I am not aware of any warnings with regard to Porsches. I would do what the manual says to do. Alternatively an easier solution is to buy a battery jumper. You can get a cheap one for $30-$50. The better ones (bigger battery) run $70-$100.

You cannot have an LSD with PSM unless you installed it aftermarket as they are not compatible. There is an indicator light in the dash that lights when PSM activates. Check your manual. The whole car will shudder when PSM activates. Kind of like ABS but you will feel it in the seat of your pants and through the steering wheel. The activation limits for PSM are quite high. If you want to feel it then put your car on a skid pad.

1) Jump instructions are in the manual. If you want to charge the battery then you need a 5-10 amp charger that you hook to the battery after first disconnecting the cables that the car uses. Charge for 8-12 hours. The cig lighter chargers will not charge a dead battery as they are only 100-500 ma. 2) You either need an electrolyte gauge or you let the car sit for a day or two and see if it will start or if it cranks slowly. 3) Costco size 47 for $48, 3 yr replacement warranty, 100 mo prorated warranty.

That is because we are all buying them! :D I have always seen them at the Redwood City and Foster City stores.

You have to pry them off. Heating with a heat gun helps to soften the adhesive but you still have to pry them off. Start at one end, heat till hot to the touch, use a stiff metal spatula (you can wrap electrical tape around it so that you do not mar the paint underneath) then work it underneath. Once you get one end lifted you will have enough space to use your fingers to pry it off. If you mar the paint do not worry to much about it as if is hidden underneath the sill anyway. Also do not worry too much if you happen to crack the original in the process of removing it.

Well found. Excellent.

1500 miles/quart is not excessive oil use for a porsche. I believe 700 miles/quart is considered excessive per the factory. I know you probably do not want to hear it but that is the way it is. Oil consumption in a flat 6 is considered "normal". Consider that a lot of people see a white puff of smoke at startup. Why is that? Who knows but it is considered normal. (My guess would be that it has something to do with the horizontal nature of the cylinders/pistons and oil seepage while the engin is sitting.) Oil consumption is not unexpected in a flat 6. Why? don't know, but certainly parts tolerances is part of it. Also break in procedure. Some engines burn oil, some don't. Also driving style is probably a factor i.e how hard and how often you really work the engine. I would not worry about it unless you 1) smell it, 2) see wetness or oil on the floor, 3) consumption rate increases significantly. Also what weight oil you use will impact consumption. Everyone wants to use 0w40 because that is the factory fill. That oil obviously is quite thin. It will seep passed seals, rings, etc. more easily and therefore will disappear. Try 15w50 sometime and see if your consumption decreases. In the mean time just top off the oil every 500-1000 miles.

You don't. On a manual transmission you do not mess with the tranny oil unless you have a leak or you are planning on replacing it.

May look better but probably illegal.

The engine is as broken is as it is going to get after 10K. Never heard of 0w50. Must be a euro only blend. Unless you plan on tracking the car then just use the 0w50.

If you car alarm is aftermarket (sounds like it as the stock one does not chirp unless there is a problem and the led only blinks slow or fast not in any patterns) then who knows what strange interactions you are going to get. Anyway pulling C3 does kill the dome light and the windows on my car.

Unlikely it is pre-wired. Do not have a Cayenne so do not know if the reading lights are near the mirror. If they are and all the mirror needs is power then tapping one of those circuits should be easy.

close up of a "solid" spoke

battery hooked up?, battery dead?, dome light switch on? I do not believe the dome light and the windows are on the same circuit. Bad bulb in the dome light? Are the lights on the lower door panel working? I think you may have two different problems.