ar38070

Cheapest place for a MAF that I know of is:

http://www.autohausaz.com/catalog/lookup_p...FToken=80622876

Check the coolant level in the expansion tank when the engine is cold and make sure that it is at the max mark.

Graeme, the bushes are fitted inside the holes of the vertical stabiliser bar as far as I can see. Did you just replace the bushes or did you replace the entire vertical stabiliser bar? I checked my PET5 catelogue. There doesn't appear to be a separate item number for the bushes.

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You are not looking at the correct parts. The bushings are rubber and isolate the sway bar from the chassis. The bushings surround the sway bar and are held in place with U-shaped brackets. If you have not taken off the plastic undertray you are not looking at the bushings.

MAF readings at idle do not mean much. You have to check it at higher rpms to see that the MAF functions correctly over its operating range. You can look at one of my prior posts to see that mine was okay at idle but underread at high rpms. Replaced the MAF and problems went away. I am not saying that the MAF is your problem but LT fuel trims should be about 0, if not then something is not right.

Your maf readings (I assume they are 8% and 10%) are off. They should be around 0%. I do not understand your O2 readings. They should look like a sine wave. Yours do not unless you have some other graphs.

If you had the IACV replaced but it still throws the same codes then I would go back to the people that replaced and ask why you still have the codes.

You need to run about 40mm in the rear. Here is a pic of a 265 on a 10" wheel et 40.

Also there are a lot of threads on this topic.

It is in the manual assuming you have one. It is also on the sticker on the hood.

Here is the attachment. I could not upload the xls file so here it is compressed.

Porsche_07_Aug_05_18_27_13_Capture_Data.zip

Well the O2 sensor readings should be oscillating back and forth between .1 ane .8 volts. The bank 1 readings looks pretty strange. The bank 2 readings look better but still look a bit odd. I have attached a spreadsheet that shows what my car (1998) looks like.

You could try pulling the sensors and having a look at them for any obvious problems. You could then swap them between banks to see if the readings follow the sensors.

That size is fine. If you do not like it switch back when you wear them out.

The nut that attaches to the stabilizer (the lower one) is 46Nm (stabilizer to stabilizer mount). The other end is 85Nm (stabilizer mount to spring strut/wheel carrier).

The shifter is mounted in a plastic frame (shift tower). If you buy the B&M you do not get the frame. The Porshe one comes mounted in another frame.

As I understand it mounting the B&M is a one way proposition, you have to break something to get the old shifter out (some bushings). You cannot go back to the stock shifter without buying some replacement parts.

There is no way any circuit in the car pulls more current from the battery than the starter. If you want to check it you need an ammeter not a test light. With the key out of the ignition and no courtesy lights or dash lights on, the current drain on the battery is about 100ma. Even with the courtesy lights on (like the one in the trunk) the current draw is only about 2.5 amps. Compared to what the starter pulls, several hundred amps, this is nothing.

If you absolutely positive that the battery is fine then I would go back and check your alternator/voltage regulator install for problems.

I would make sure that the battery is charged regardless of what Sears tells you. The fact that the car attempts to turnover and then stops means the battery is not charged. If you can, try the battery in another car to see if it will start it. Basically make sure the battery is good regardless of how old it is or what Sears told you.

You say that the battery light illuminates immediately as soon as you reconnect the battery with the key out. Is this repeatable? i.e if you disconnect the negative lead, wait 30 seconds, reconnect the lead, does the light go on?

If this is the original battery then replace it. It is due.

Whenever you try to put the biggest possible tire/wheel on a car you run in to individual car characteristics. No two cars are exactly the same. A 285 on a 10.5 wheel can fit. Will it fit you wont know till you try it. It all depends on the offset of the wheel, what brand tire you use and how much camber you have.

I meant to say in #2 that after you clear the CEL and then monitor the engine in real time you will see pending codes turn up quickly (within 20 miles) if you have a problem. A pending code is where the ECU has detected a problem, is monitoring the situation and if the problem persists the ECU will then eventually illuminate the CEL.

1) You cannot tell by looking at it with your eyeballs if the MAF is contaminated. If you do not have the equipment to read the output of the MAF while the engine is running then you have no idea what is happening.

2) Depending on the magnitude of the problem the CEL may take a while (50-200 miles) before it comes back on unless you have the equipment to monitor the engine in real time.

Bottom line is that you can tighten bolts, clean mafs, change the plugs, replace the fuel filter, etc. but unless you have the equipment to monitor the engine while it is running you are taking shots in the dark.

Spend the $150-$500 and get a laptop/palm based OBDII reader.

By definition float chargers are not meant to totally recharge a battery. As opposed to a trickle charger, 5-10 amps, which will recharge your battery in 10-15 hours.

The easist thing for you to do is to jump the car with either a standalone battery or another car. Then drive it for 30 minutes or so.

Not likely. The rears should be about et45. Those rears will stick out about 21mm further than your stock wheels.

The fronts are probably too wide period. Unless you are planning on flaring the fenders. They will stick out about 25mm further than your stock.

You also have to worry about the inside clearance of the tires on the wheel wells. A 235 will barely fit on a 9.5 wheel. You will probably want to run a 245 or 255 up front. 245s barely fit. 255s probably wont fit without some fender work. On the rears you will have to use 305s or 315s. 305s fit. 315s will fit but you have to be exactly right with the offset or you will have to roll the fenders and/or modify the plastic wheel liners.

Normal. As long as you do not see oil in the throttle body it is okay.

If you did not see my post when I was having the problem do a search on P1128.

The first set of rotors I got from www.frozenrotors.com. I think I paid $118 each. I just looked at the website and they are now $130 each. The second set I got from a guy in canada. The guy's name is Martin and his email is:

brakeparts@sympatico.ca

They were $205 canadian for the pair plus shipping. The total was about $185 US. I have not communicated with him for a year so I do not know if he is still in business.

I think the frozenrotor ones had anodized or painted hats. The canadian ones are uncoated.

I have gone through at least one set of pagid oranges on the latest set. There is no ridge at the edge of the rotor yet.

I was looking at the referenced site and found this lift

http://www.asedeals.com/pit_lifts.html

It is a little more expensive ($1800 but they say call for the sale price) but I like it because there is no mechanism between the lift points and therefore you have complete and clear access to the entire bottom of the car.

The only reason that I would recommend frozen rotors is that they are cost effective, at least for solid rotors. An OEM rotor is $70-$100. The last set of frozen rotors that I got were $90 each shipped. I track my car a lot (20-30 days a year) and use pagid orange pads. I had to replace my last set of frozen rotors because they cracked. Before when I used oem rotors I had to replace them because they wore down to the wear limit. The wear limit is 2mm. When the frozen ones cracked I measured the wear. I had less than 0.5mm wear. I would have to go back and check but I know that they lasted much longer than a set of oem ones.

Now for street use I have heard of people having to replace oem rotors at around 30-40K miles because of wear. If you use frozen rotors you could probably go 2-3 times farther.

No hard use then stock pads and fluid. No sense spending money for performance you will never need. If you can find a cheap set of frozen rotors, say $200 for a pair, then get them. You will probably never have to change your rotors again.