ar38070

Just buy a turbo :D

I have a set of these and had the same problem. A pair of 5mm spacers takes care of it.

A 6mm spacer is fine.

Toe can be be either toe in (negative numbers) or toe out (positive numbers). The Porsche spec is for slight toe out. Toe out, generally speaking, makes the car less stable in a straight line. Toe out in the front helps to turn the car. Toe in in the front helps the car track in a straight line. Toe in in the rear helps the car stay in a straight line under acceleration. Excessive toe (in or out) increases tire wear as in general the car spends most of its time going in a straight line.

Your alignment will be a compromise balancing tire wear versus performance.

You will see anywhere from .6-.9 depending on conditions i.e. temp, altitude, fuel, humidity, etc.

Loren gave you the "Toe Difference angle) not the "Toe unpressed".

The Toe unpressed is +5'+_5'

Also I believe the Porsche numbers are per wheel toe, not total toe (sum of both sides).

12" is 12 minutes of degree

12/60=0.2 degrees

tangent of 0.2 degrees x 317.5 mm tire radius = 1.1mm

28" = 2.6mm

Check engine light came back on. Now its code P0430( actually this might of been the initial code). Sounds like the 02 sensor is bad. What do you think Loren?

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Is that the only code? or are there more?

What are the O2 sensors voltages and do they vary or are they always the same?

See the graphs below...

TWC - OK

TWC - NOT OK

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What is TWC?

That is your first mention of smoke. So definitely pull apart the intake and check for oil. If you find oil then your best bet is the air/oil separator.

I'm a retired Mobil Oil exec who's also into Porsches.  I just visited Zuffenhausen in July.  Each engine is tested with and refilled at the factory with Mobil 1 0W-40.  Despite the fact that Porsche doesn't know the ultimate operating destination of each vehicle.

Porsche and Mobil developed the 0W-40 jointly.  And as noted above, "I would stick with only what Porsche recommends".

And our research folks do too.  I was chided by the head of Mobil 1 research for mentioning that I would put Mobil 1, 15W-50 into my 997.  He said that the 0W-40 is the oil to use.  (Suspect that it has something to do with the hydraulic lifters, but don't quote me.)

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Does us a favor. Ask your research guy for details. It may finally settle this question at least until the next great oil comes out.

Things I would ask:

What if the car is run in very hot weather, 90-120 degrees?

What if the car is a track car only? Car is at/near redline most of the time.

Is it truly the lifter issue? Before 2000 there was no 0W-40. 15W-50 was a recommended oil and now it is not, why?

There is a 5W-40 "Truck and SUV" formulation. It has applicable API certifications but not ACEA. Is this a viable alternative? If not why not?

Thanks for any clarification that you could provide.

It is still best to check the manufacturers specs as one manufacturers 245/35 is not necessarily the same as anothers. Things such as tread depth will effect actual diameter, albeight slightly.

Are you getting any kind of OBDII faults?

Before going to the trouble or replacing the air/oil separator check to see if you are getting oil in the intake. Just take off the intake hose at the throttle body and have a look.

How many miles on the car?

Measure your tire diameters or check the manufacturer's or tirerack's website for the numbers and see if they are within Porsche spec.

Not to be US centric but when you speak of octane numbers make sure you are talking apples and apples, i.e. RON, MON or (RON+MON)/2, so as to avoid confusion.

The factory battery is made be Moll and is a piece of crap :).

You do not have to disconnect the battery just make sure the key is not in the ignition. However whenever I mess with any electricals I always disconnect the negative lead just to play it safe.

If your radio needs a code you should have been given the code when you bought the car. I know 2004's do not need a code, not sure about 2003.

Pull off the cables at the battery and clean the connections, replace and make sure they are tight.

The second gen PCCB are no better as far as wear. Their only advantage is cost.

You can use either the stock GT3 rotor or the motorsport GT3 rotor. The motorsport for some strange reason is cheaper.

I know of two places to get floating rotors. The first is Sunset Porsche. They have just started offering it and it is pricey. The starting price is about $800 per rotor. The replacement iron is about $300 per rotor. Another company that I know of (I do not remember the name at the moment) the price is about $600 per rotor to start and $250 for the replacement iron. Both offer solid rotors with slots (which is the way to go IMHO) and rotors with holes. I do not believe the unnamed company has actually produced yet, still waiting for enough interest to do a production run. Also the Sunset rotors are direct replacement. The unnamed ones require that you use spacers to push out the caliper.

Any possibility that the rotors are somehow getting wet where the car is parked?

A lot of the people out here on the left coast have swapped at least the fronts out for iron. If you use them hard you will find that they will start to flake or pit. You will see this start to happen within 10 track days.

Many people have had them replaced once by Porsche under warranty. After that you are on your own.

If you want more stories search on PCCB on rennlist and 6speedonline.

I use this:

http://www.bowserelectronics.com/

$180

The company auctions one off on ebay every day. The auction used to start at $100. I just checked and they raised the starting price to $120. I got mine a while back for $115. If you want one and are not in a hurry then eventually you will get one for $120.

You are fine. In the future just dump the whole can in the bleeder and then keep bleeding until you use it all up.

Try hear:

http://www.autohausaz.com/

Well lets see if it will attach as a web page:

Porsche_07_Aug_05_18_27_13_Table_Data.htm

Porsche_07_Aug_05_18_27_13_Capture_Data.htm