deilenberger

Funny thing - I thought of the same idea, using the existing bearing support and large rubber (viton) stoppers.. :) Price seems just a tad high since you can buy a new support bearing for $70 (Ebay - multiple vendors) and there are rebuilt driveshafts for around the same money. It looks to me as if the driveshaft still has to be disassembled (I could be wrong on this) to get the old support off, if so I'd just go with the replacement bearing/mount from Ebay. If not - it might not be a bad solution. Be a great solution if it was around $200 or so. One thing I thought of - the mount failure may be caused by the bearing starting to seize up - if so - this isn't going to help at all. If anyone has done the bearing replacement (or even driveshaft replacement) - what was the condition of the old bearing?

I've been in CA for about 2 weeks - probably be here another week or so. Been in Manhattan Beach for the past week, heading back into Culver City (LA) tonight for 2 nights then starting up the coast on Sunday AM. Will probably be somewhere around San Luis Obispo, then? Dunno.. will be visiting some relatives in San Francisco for a few days. Then north Oregon, Washington, and turn right and head for home (with a stop/crawl at Yellowstone..).. Gotta love the hill-holder (anti-rollback) on the hills of Manhattan Beach, and more then likely SF..

I kinda prefer the "It a giant magnet" look. :jump: ROTFLMAO..

Ah - interesting that was the source of the leak.... didn't know which "flange" it was. The passenger side one is the fuel pressure regulator, the drivers side one is the fuel filter and a check valve that keeps the fuel rail pressurized with the pumps off. I had them all replaced under warranty (and the pumps) when I had a starting problem (loss of fuel rail pressure when the car was shut down.) Turned out to be the fuel filter one - with the undocumented check valve in it (which wasn't checking..) Picked up a brand new one today from a seller on Ebay for $20 (dealer cost is many multiples of that..) Have it in the back of the truck, happily I'm on vacation in the LA area and that's where the seller was.

Wonder if the aftermarket cap damaged the flange? Did you ever check to see what the laws in your state are in regards to a sale from a car dealer (even sleezy used car dealers apply in NJ) where it wouldn't pass emissions? I suspect those lows are rather standard nationwide (assuming you're in the USA..)

Actually - I'd suggest avoiding the Sylvania brand stuff. Even though they are owned by Osram - the stuff they peddle in the US isn't the same as the Europen bulbs (even with the same names - like "Nightbreaker") The best source for non-available bulbs I've found is www.powerbulbs.com in the UK. Despite them being in the UK, delivery is free and FAST (typically less then 1 week after ordering them.) They even have a US dollar version of their website to make it easy for us. Any of the Osram higher output bulbs DO put out more light - usually very close to the claimed 50% or so.. (I did some articles for the BMW Car Club of America Roundel on alternative bulbs - and did a lot of in depth testing of different bulbs.) They do draw the standard current - so there are no wiring problems. Unfortunately - there is no free lunch - the way they make more light is they run hotter, and that causes shorter lifetimes. They aren't awful, but they will be shorter lived. FWIW - any bulb with a colored coating on them is putting out reduced light - the color is a filter that absorbs light, and allows only the desired color through. This isn't a good thing as you move toward the blue end of the spectrum since the actual output is less then a clear bulb, and your eye has problems with contrast as you head toward blue so its harder to discern what you're looking at, and scattering from blue (why the sky appears blue BTW..) also causes your eye's iris to close down.. all of these make "blue bulbs" a bad choice unless you're just going for the bling. There is a reason fog lights (and in France - normal headlights) all used to be yellow (think of "blue-blocker" sunglasses - and the increased contrast they provide by reducing scattering.) About the best tutorials on lighting you can find are by Daniel Stern, a recognized expert in automotive lighting. http://www.danielsternlighting.com/ - a good article by him on light color is: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/lights/light_color/light_color.html Best, (and yes - I used to do this sort of research at Bell Labs many moons ago..)

I added a switched power feed for my backup display/camera by tracking down an empty fuse position in the passenger side fuse box. The power feed is there - what isn't there is a connector to take the power off. Solution to that is to strip back enough wire to wrap around the spade on the fuse, then plug it in so that side goes to the empty hole in the fuse box (and the other side to the side of the fuse position with a connector in it..) It's pretty obvious when you take a look. Be nice to find a source of the female connectors used in the fuse block.. but I was at a dealers when a chap was looking for that part - and the dealer was of no use in helping him. I'm sure Porsche does sell it as a repair part - perhaps a sponsoring parts dealer here might be able to track down the PN..

I'm surprised there isn't a check engine light on (or SES).. From looking at the listing for covered components, it looks as if anything leaking would be covered by the mandated warranty. There is no "overfill" on modern fuel systems.. the pump should click off when the tank is full. The fact that the dealer only put 3/4 tank in it to deliver it to you means to me that they knew of the problem. In some states - any used car - even one sold "as-is" by a dealer MUST meet emissions standards, it's worth checking that out. FWIW - IIRC, fuel capacity is 24 gallons, so 20-21 isn't abnormal.

Noticed later today a bit of it is still evident, but nothing like before. I think the surface you're parked on makes a big difference, and perhaps the tire temperature (warmer = stickier)..

Fixed, Did the poor man's flush described above with the Pensotin 202 fluid ($24/liter from a Porsche dealer).. managed 3 drain reservoir/fill reservoir/run-lock-to-lock/repeat. The stuff coming out was quite dark (about like coffee without cream..) and smelled toasted. The stuff going in is green in color, has a slight acrid odor. After doing the 3 drain/fill/drain/repeat.. no more shudder. If you have this - it's a cheap try at fixing it. Probably be better with Porsches prescribed 2 man process to flush the system, but this worked and cost was minimal. I might do the full flush when I get back to the east coast.. but right now - the shudder is gone and the steering actually feels better (quicker? Is that possible? Or perhaps less effort required making it feel quicker..)

Entirely possible - unfortunately - NAPA only has the 11.S.. I may see if there is a semi-convenient Porsche dealer on the way to my friends..

Thanks for the confirmation.. Mine might have been doing it to some extent all along, but it's odd that I really just noticed it after the desert runs. What it looks like is the bushings on the steering rack allowing it to move slightly sideway, and then causing it to rebound back to normal position (I'd guess when the recovery force of the bushings exceeds the grip of the tire.) I think I'll visit NAPA again tomorrow AM buy another liter of Pensotin, and see if I can borrow a friends driveway. Then find a turkey-baster, and do the poor-mans flush (drain reservior, refill, repeat after running engine and going lock to lock - all until the fluid looks clear.). Done that a number of times on my BMWs, which turn the fluid (most of them use Dexron-ATF) to a coffee like appearance after a few years. Returning to the east coast in a few weeks I'll be going through no deserts.. :) I may be exceeding 100 MPH (be going through Montana), but in more temperate conditions. Thanks again!

Just checked.. running/not-running doesn't make any real difference. I did notice a burned smell to the fluid - which makes me think the cooling coil for it isn't quite adequate for long desert runs at 100F.. Loren - do you happen to know the flush quantity?

Loren, thanks. Running or not running didn't make a bunch of difference in the level. Will see tomorrow AM if hot/cold makes more. When I looked at the level this AM - it was still cold..

When I had my wife order the 2010 update (maps dated 2009) from one of the sponsoring vendors here - it came complete in a nice little fake-leather book with the update disks included. Cost was $299 for the entire package.

Is it done engine running (like most euro cars) or engine off? Reason I ask - if the truck is stationary and I got lock to lock, there is a shudder in the steering wheel when it reaches close to lock.. the truck has Servotronic.. I watched the actual wheels, and there is a slight shudder in them corresponding to the shudder in the steering wheel. It sorta looks like a resonance in the suspension bushings (and perhaps the steering rack mount bushings.) I also checked the fluid level - engine running - it was at the minimum line. Went to a NAPA in Los Angeles (I drove it here from NJ..) bought the Pentosin CF-11 fluid and brought it up to the max level (engine running.) Doesn't seem to have made much difference. I realized despite all my prep (like replacing the cooling pipes) to get the truck ready for a 7,000 mile jaunt - I hadn't checked this level before leaving home, and actually hadn't checked it in about 6,000 miles (and I didn't remember the dipstick, which makes me think may have never checked it..) Poked around - felt the steering rack boots - feel empty (no fluid accumulation), looked at the belly pan under the power steering pump, dry as a bone.. so no sign of any leaks and no dribbling when parked. My WAG at the moment is - this is sorta normal. I'm on Michelin's that have about 35% tread left and they spent about 700 miles crossing the western deserts at 80-90 MPH (gotta love Utah's 80 MPH speedlimit). No other oddities except the shudder, which my guess is - the rubber gripping and releasing as they try to rotate without the wheels turning. There is no sign of this with the truck moving (can pull U turns with the best of the LA drivers - also gotta love the narrow turning circle on such a big vehicle..) Just in case I decide to have Porsche check it out - I'll be in LA for 2 weeks - any recommendations on an authorized Porsche dealer (truck is still under CPO..)?

There was a bronze/gold color GTS parked in the valet parking at the Tropicana in Las Vegas last night and this AM.. what a hot color that is.. it's gonna get me looking to update from the Iceland Silver Metallic (aka - light blue metallic) Titanium edition. Oh - in LA. Did 3,100 miles - trouble-free. More then I can say for the two BMWs, two Mercedes and one Audi I saw broken down in the desert section of I-15 between LV and LA.. was around 100F in the desert, and the Cayenne has excellent AC.. :)

I get the same thing in NJ.. it's because for some reason Porsche leaves the defroster vents partly open when in automatic mode. Try switching from auto mode and just turn the face-level vents on.. that seems to help for me.

After about 2,500 miles since leaving home, had my first Cayenne sighting. A Series-2 ('08-'10) burgandy/reddish GTS on I-70 around the western end of I-70 in Colorado and the eastern end of I-70 in Utah. The 75MPH speed limit seemed to be our minimum speed.. several times we saw the ton. He finally pulled away on a long (like 5 mile) uphill straight (probably 5-6% grade) where the additional power he has made a real difference (plus perhaps he wasn't carrying 1,000lbs of "necessities" and wedding stuff..) We did about 50 miles or so together, and it was sorta cool having two Cayennes blasting past other cars.. looked like an AutoBahn run.. Fun trip so far. Finally had the temperature gauge move off 180.. might have gone to 185F.. during another long uphill climb in Bryce Canyon National Park in 3rd gear. Since it was only about 65F outside I'd turned off the HVAC and had the windows open. Once I shut them and turned the HVAC back on temp quickly returned to 180F. Elevation was a bit under 10,000 feet.. (9,700 and change..) Photos of the pig in various scenic locals will follow if I ever get a real Interwebz connection..

I sorta wondered that also.. :) Perhaps he could buy two Porsche hood ornaments and glue them to the sides.. BTW - along the same line - can anyone think of a possible reason Porsche didn't put their moniker on the tailgate? Are they ashamed of the Pig? The only "Porsche" there - is a sticker on the glass right under the 3rd brake light, where it can't be seen from the inside OR the outside.. Only way I've seen it is by opening the glass seperately from the tailgate. Mebbe that's a Titanium thing. Thought about buying the letters from Sunset - but then have to find the titanium paint to make them match the Cayenne/S..

I'm not sure it qualifies as iPod sort of capabilities. It appears it will play music stored on your phone. That's not where I keep my music, and I saw nothing to indicate that you could control the music using this device and the PCM.. For just a BlueTooth phone it looks interesting.

The Porsche telephone module is the transmitter/receiver module. Since this is a BlueTooth device, your BlueTooth enabled cell phone should work as the transmitter/receiver. WAG - it will work, but more details from the vendor would certainly help clear that up. One of the photos in the large group photo is of a PCM 2.1..

That's just the arm - it's doesn't include the blade assembly or blade mount (which on mine was bent beyond repair.). Plus my carwash paid for Porsche to install it.. I'm sure they charged 1/2 hour of labor..

I agree there is nothing impressive (except the original price and the prices for map updates..) I do like the instrument cluster display, and that the lady in the dash doesn't nag me with "Recalculating (you idiot!") like the Garmin does. I have SWMBO to handle that task on this trip.. I do use the Garmin when I really want to know where I'm going, it's POI's and street maps are much more up to date (05/09 vs 06/11).. I switched it to Mexico City this AM, and it happily DID adjust the time zone including "summer time".. have a few more states to go before I go looking for -7GMT.. ;) Best,

The on-line image isn't accurate. Mine was replaced about 3 weeks ago (courtesy of a local carwash..) - same design as what was on there.. hinged at the pivot point, and seperate blade assemble in the plastic arm. Figure it's gonna cost your carwash about $100, that's what it cost mine.. (the new wiper works really nicely..)