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redcab replied to redcab's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Thx for replies... but what function does it perform? Is it just a dustcap? Since I removed it I can't really say I notice much difference in either look or feel!
redcab replied to redcab's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)At $3.53 it's the cheapest non-washer part I've ever bought for the P-car. Sort of wish it had a use... I'd buy more. haha!
redcab started following Installing new radio/head unit (need wiring guidance), what's this part for?, Slow window movement and and 2 others
redcab posted a topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)2001 996 tiptronic cabriolet (US) The tiptronic shifter started binding and getting stuck between "D" and "M" so I took it all apart and found a triangular piece of plastic with a spring attached just under the shifter gate. The spring pushes the plastic piece upward into the shifter gate trim piece (the one with the P-R-N-D-M gates). The shifter itself passes through the hole. 996-552-687-00-01C Since it caused the binding, I took it out. Does this piece have any useful function? Will I regret removing it? Many thanks!
redcab replied to L986's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Good idea Flanders... I applied RainX, inside & out and the windows are descending much more steadily & rapidly. Thanks!
redcab replied to L986's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)On my 2001 996 I'm seeing very slow & labored window speed going down, but not up. Slow on both right and left side, but worse on the driver's side. I think the window is binding on the rubber. Is there a good product to soften the rubber? Or am I fooling myself and the problem is that the motor is weak (or I'm losing a battery cell). thanks...
Ok, got that done! Now one question left.... in removing the center console I disconnected 6 connectors under the ashtray. All easy and obvious to reconnect except the storage bin alarm wire. I didn't pay close enough attention to where it came from as I was disassembling (it fell apart without needing my deliberate effort) and now I don't have a clear idea of where the other side of the connector (the side attached to the storage bin lock) is or how the heck I'm supposed to get my hand in there to make the connectors connect. Any ideas or hints appreciated....because I really don't want to disassemble the whole console again just to put that one connection back!
Thanks for the diagram Loren... if you could help me understand it, by confirming... The direction "3" is from P to D (toward the rear of the car)? The longest edge of the plastic is oriented so that it's perpendicular to the shifter travel, and it on the "D side" (as opposed to the "P side")? Thanks as always for your timely and authoritative responses!
Ok, got the parking brake microsensor back in and I'm having some challenges getting the tiptronic shifter assembled properly. FIrst challenge was the retainer spring clip that would go all the way in. Finally I pushed it with the edge of a screwdriver and voila! it is in (30 minutes later of course) Now my problem is that the shifter clunks through the gears and is hitting an obstruction as it moves from D to M and back again. There is a funny shaped piece of black plastic with spring attached that goes right under the shifter cover. It has a hole in which the shifter shaft passes through. How does one properly orient this funny shaped piece of black plastic? Thanks...
Ok, finally got the side covers to the center console off! I had to grab the back edge with 2 hands and pull very hard straight outward (perpendicular to the cover) and finally it let go. I now see there are 3 tabs that are aligned vertically holding in this piece. Hopefully I'll get to taking the rest of it apart during the coming weekend ....
I am having one heck of an (unsuccessful so far) time trying to remove the side covers of the center console. I'm applying a lot of thumb pressure outward on the front edge, but there is absolutely no wiggle or give. (Step 4 in the BMR racing link). Also, I have a tip, so are there any specific directions related to removing the shifter knob and surround?
Hi all, I'm getting ready to replace the parking brake microswitch (so that my top will go up and down) and I'm looking for details on removing the lower console panels and carpet pieces in the vicinity of the parking brake. I have this excellent write up for the switch replacement: http://www.bombaydig...g_brake_switch/ but I get really nervous about prying off panels for the first time when I don't know exactly where the clip is or just how much force is appropriate to apply. So if there is a write up on removing all those panels in the neighborhood of the parking brake that someone would point me to I'd be appreciative. (Honest, I've searched every way I could think of and have come up with nothing). Thanks! RedCab
Loren - is there any description of what type of throttle input causes each of the 5 shift patterns to be chosen? It doesn't take much experimentation to realize that SC1 is "grandma driving" and SC5 is "WOT, hard". What about in between?
Hi, I'm going to replace the CD-220 head unit with a Kenwood BT-901. Planning to keep the Porsche DSP unit that was standard and I want all 6 stock speakers and amp to continue to function. I bought the unit from Crutchfield and also got the Porsche wiring harness. So far so good. Even noted to switch the red/yellow wires and connect up all the blues... I see the BT-901 has 4 plug outputs which are meant to go to the amp (marked RF, LF, RR, LR) via one harness connector. There is another harness connector which has 4 wires connected which are for RF and LF speaker connections. Do these 6 connections (4 to amp and 2 directly to speakers) work exactly right to what my amp and speakers are expecting? If the answer's no, please explain! Thanks Thanks Thanks!!!
Loren, I think it would be useful to update the DIY on this topic to indicate for MY01 the procedure for passing the fuel filter backward and its eventual extraction point. As it reads now, it looks like a very easy job (hey, remove covers, and get direct access to the filter) but reality is that its a bit more intimidating than that as the filter deep in the tunnel, blocked by the rigid radiator pipes.
MY2001 C2.... I had the car up on a rack for an oil change and decided to remove the rear and then the center under panel covers to have a look. The fuel pump on this model is up above some very rigid coolant pipes. I read that the way you get it out is to unfasten it (obvious) and pass it back toward the rear of the car, where eventually the coolant pipes turn to rubber connectors which can be spread. Then you reverse the procedure to shimmy it back up there and reconnect. I took a hard look at it and decided this job is for someone who has done it before!