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redcab

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Everything posted by redcab

  1. Thx for replies... but what function does it perform? Is it just a dustcap? Since I removed it I can't really say I notice much difference in either look or feel!
  2. At $3.53 it's the cheapest non-washer part I've ever bought for the P-car. Sort of wish it had a use... I'd buy more. haha!
  3. 2001 996 tiptronic cabriolet (US) The tiptronic shifter started binding and getting stuck between "D" and "M" so I took it all apart and found a triangular piece of plastic with a spring attached just under the shifter gate. The spring pushes the plastic piece upward into the shifter gate trim piece (the one with the P-R-N-D-M gates). The shifter itself passes through the hole. 996-552-687-00-01C Since it caused the binding, I took it out. Does this piece have any useful function? Will I regret removing it? Many thanks!
  4. Good idea Flanders... I applied RainX, inside & out and the windows are descending much more steadily & rapidly. Thanks!
  5. On my 2001 996 I'm seeing very slow & labored window speed going down, but not up. Slow on both right and left side, but worse on the driver's side. I think the window is binding on the rubber. Is there a good product to soften the rubber? Or am I fooling myself and the problem is that the motor is weak (or I'm losing a battery cell). thanks...
  6. Ok, got that done! Now one question left.... in removing the center console I disconnected 6 connectors under the ashtray. All easy and obvious to reconnect except the storage bin alarm wire. I didn't pay close enough attention to where it came from as I was disassembling (it fell apart without needing my deliberate effort) and now I don't have a clear idea of where the other side of the connector (the side attached to the storage bin lock) is or how the heck I'm supposed to get my hand in there to make the connectors connect. Any ideas or hints appreciated....because I really don't want to disassemble the whole console again just to put that one connection back!
  7. Thanks for the diagram Loren... if you could help me understand it, by confirming... The direction "3" is from P to D (toward the rear of the car)? The longest edge of the plastic is oriented so that it's perpendicular to the shifter travel, and it on the "D side" (as opposed to the "P side")? Thanks as always for your timely and authoritative responses!
  8. Ok, got the parking brake microsensor back in and I'm having some challenges getting the tiptronic shifter assembled properly. FIrst challenge was the retainer spring clip that would go all the way in. Finally I pushed it with the edge of a screwdriver and voila! it is in (30 minutes later of course) Now my problem is that the shifter clunks through the gears and is hitting an obstruction as it moves from D to M and back again. There is a funny shaped piece of black plastic with spring attached that goes right under the shifter cover. It has a hole in which the shifter shaft passes through. How does one properly orient this funny shaped piece of black plastic? Thanks...
  9. Ok, finally got the side covers to the center console off! I had to grab the back edge with 2 hands and pull very hard straight outward (perpendicular to the cover) and finally it let go. I now see there are 3 tabs that are aligned vertically holding in this piece. Hopefully I'll get to taking the rest of it apart during the coming weekend ....
  10. I am having one heck of an (unsuccessful so far) time trying to remove the side covers of the center console. I'm applying a lot of thumb pressure outward on the front edge, but there is absolutely no wiggle or give. (Step 4 in the BMR racing link). Also, I have a tip, so are there any specific directions related to removing the shifter knob and surround?
  11. Hi all, I'm getting ready to replace the parking brake microswitch (so that my top will go up and down) and I'm looking for details on removing the lower console panels and carpet pieces in the vicinity of the parking brake. I have this excellent write up for the switch replacement: http://www.bombaydig...g_brake_switch/ but I get really nervous about prying off panels for the first time when I don't know exactly where the clip is or just how much force is appropriate to apply. So if there is a write up on removing all those panels in the neighborhood of the parking brake that someone would point me to I'd be appreciative. (Honest, I've searched every way I could think of and have come up with nothing). Thanks! RedCab
  12. Loren - is there any description of what type of throttle input causes each of the 5 shift patterns to be chosen? It doesn't take much experimentation to realize that SC1 is "grandma driving" and SC5 is "WOT, hard". What about in between?
  13. Hi, I'm going to replace the CD-220 head unit with a Kenwood BT-901. Planning to keep the Porsche DSP unit that was standard and I want all 6 stock speakers and amp to continue to function. I bought the unit from Crutchfield and also got the Porsche wiring harness. So far so good. Even noted to switch the red/yellow wires and connect up all the blues... I see the BT-901 has 4 plug outputs which are meant to go to the amp (marked RF, LF, RR, LR) via one harness connector. There is another harness connector which has 4 wires connected which are for RF and LF speaker connections. Do these 6 connections (4 to amp and 2 directly to speakers) work exactly right to what my amp and speakers are expecting? If the answer's no, please explain! Thanks Thanks Thanks!!!
  14. Loren, I think it would be useful to update the DIY on this topic to indicate for MY01 the procedure for passing the fuel filter backward and its eventual extraction point. As it reads now, it looks like a very easy job (hey, remove covers, and get direct access to the filter) but reality is that its a bit more intimidating than that as the filter deep in the tunnel, blocked by the rigid radiator pipes.
  15. MY2001 C2.... I had the car up on a rack for an oil change and decided to remove the rear and then the center under panel covers to have a look. The fuel pump on this model is up above some very rigid coolant pipes. I read that the way you get it out is to unfasten it (obvious) and pass it back toward the rear of the car, where eventually the coolant pipes turn to rubber connectors which can be spread. Then you reverse the procedure to shimmy it back up there and reconnect. I took a hard look at it and decided this job is for someone who has done it before!
  16. Scott, I'm pretty sure that when I did the repair I determined that you have to buy the entire assembly. Here's what I bought from Sunset 2 years ago... prices have probably changed. Replacement Hinge Part #996-561-907-02 (Left side) $155.72 Replacement Seal Part#996-561-904-00 (“Cabrio Plate” in Porsche terminology) $26.93 I'd rate my DIY skills as better than average, but not expert, and my risk aversion (that panic you feel when you've put everything back and find one bolt left in the tray) as calmer than most and I found this repair to be achievable but at the edge of my capabilities. If you can visualize how the assembly moves when in action you'll be well prepared for getting it back right as the cabriolet mechanism has lots of moving parts that have a precise sequence. If I remember right, the initial position of the latch is important when you put everything back. The most difficult part of the repair was fitting a square metal coupling on the assembly into a hard rubber fitting (side close to the driver's door). Because you don't have room to attach the assembly straight & directly into the other, you have to twist it significantly on both the removal and return. At the time, I had great concern that I was about to break something and make the problem much worse. You'll be working in close confines and there isn't a lot of "wiggle room" for reattaching parts that take a pretty good force to get into the right place. But the good news is that when all the holes line up you know you've done it right! Overall, I'd say the repair took 2-3 hours, including mistakes that led to several iterations of disassembly / re-assembly. I bet the second time around I could do it in half the time. Good luck! Jerry
  17. I'm ready for the next "Work on your car day" in the Santa Clara area!
  18. What's AOS and IMSB? Not familiar w/ those terms. Also... hadn't thought about the water pump. Is the thought, "while you're replacing the belt you might as well do the water pump because it's only a small extra amount of parts/labor?" Or is it a unit that you can count on eventually failing?
  19. Thanks Loren, that link was part of my link before I made the posting. Strictly going by the factory recommendations, I know I should do the plugs and might as well do the fuel filter while the car is on the rack. All the other items would be somewhere between "future" and "never" per the factory, yet I know many people do them earlier (and of course the shops in the area give that behavior a standing ovation!). I believe in preventative maintenance but not to the point of being wasteful. What am I gaining or risking by doing those other items earlier than the factory recommendation? Thanks!
  20. Forgot to mention... the car is driven several time a week. Going to work includes 10 miles of highway, so it is getting up to full operating temperature.
  21. 2001 996 C2 Tiptronic 41K miles I've owned the car since 2003, 16K miles. I guess I should really drive more! Of regular maintenance, I've changed the engine oil annually and the air filter when I see it's dirty. I'm not tracking the car - just driving to work and pleasure driving. Suburbia - not city. Car runs very smoothly so I'm not trying to fix anything. I'm not a big fan of doing unnecessary maintenance, but as the vehicle is now mine for 10 years I figure I ought to think through if there are any items that ought to be done based on time, not mileage. I've reviewed the posted maintenance intervals. Here's my opinion, but I'd like yours! Engine oil & air filter - recently done. Spark plugs - still on the originals. Factory recommends 60K miles or 4 years. Thinking I ought to change these. Fuel filter - factory interval is 48K miles. Getting close enough that I ought to do this one too. Coolant - looks clear and has been topped off. factory says lifetime. I'm inclined not to touch it. Serpentine belt - still firm and not showing any wear. Factory rec is 60K miles. Not surewhether to do it now.. Auto transmission fluid - factory rec is 90K miles. Not sure whether to do it now. Differential oil - can't find factory rec. Should I do it? Power steering fluid - can't find factory rec. Should I do it? Any other fluid or filter I've missed? (oh yeah, the pollen filter is fresh and the brakes / fluid is fine)
  22. Looking for some advice...entering the "cold" season here in northern california and so I've been driving with the convertible top up a bit more and I've noticed that at highway speeds I'm hearing what I'd call "creaking" (which is different of course from "squeaking" or "rattling") coming from the convertible / cabriolet top. If I put my right hand palm up on the inside of the roof and press, the creaking will be silenced. Pushing in other areas has no effect. Pushing on the right spot feels like there is probably a roof support right under my palm. As I've mentioned, its a problem only encountered at highway speeds. Any ideas? Something I need to lube? Cables I need to tighten? Any advice greatly appreciated!
  23. Would like some opinions on this.... Just replace brake pads all around. 1. Mechanic (specializes in high end euro cars) says "We live in California - the weather is so dry here that there is no reason to bleed / replace the brake fluid. Better to just keep the system closed." Agree or Disagree? 2. Brake fluid reservoir now (after pad change) shows fluid level about a 1 cm below "MIN" level. Should I just top it off with brake fluid matching "porsche approved"? Or don't mix / top off? Vehicle is 2001 996 Cab. Mileage is 38K.... this may well be the first brake pad replacement. No tracking.... just driving. THANKS!!! Jerry
  24. Do you have any opinion about the quality / value of various manufacturers of pads and rotors? I'm a suburbia driver, not planning to track the car (a 2001 C2 Cab) On the Penguin site, I see these manufacturers... price points vary widely. I don't want "cheap" quality, but I am willing to live with cheap $ ! In addition to "genuine porsche" (always the most expensive) there is: for pads: Textar Mintex Akebono ATE for rotors: Balo Zimmerman Sebro Thanks!
  25. Thanks Loren, just a clarification for the neophyte in me.... The info you linked me to says the front wheels brake disk thickness is 28 mm new and at 26 mm wear it is gone. At 26.6 mm you've reached the spec limit. The tech came up with a measurement of 1.037 for the rotor. I'm not any expert in brake anatomy, but it seems like he was measuring some other distance. How do I compare these 2 sets of numbers? As always, thank you for sharing your expertise.
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