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pk2

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Everything posted by pk2

  1. pk2
    Funny, I’ve never taken my Porsches or BMWs to a dealer for out of pocket service… $320 for a battery…That’s great if it lasts 20 years (hint, it won't, neither will the car) Look at the batteries life expectancy, Their rated in years or months and that’s just about what you will get out of them. I’ve never had one die prematurely. 5 or 6 years are convenient. If they die early you’ll be given pro rata credit on your next battery, in other words you pay by the month rafadless of how long it lasts. Do have them do a load test et al. to make sure you charging stystem is in good shape Regards, PK
  2. pk2
    That little thing looks familiar. If it's a rubber tip its probably a stop of some sort, maybe from where the clamshells seat, maybe from you neighbors lawnmower. I think I have a passenger side regulator sitting around if it gets down to that ( it may even be the same for both sides. Regards, PK
  3. pk2
    Unless someone took yours out, you cant miss it, grab the first 2 wires you see (on or near the clutch arm) and pull them off and jump them together with a little piece of wire. If your car starts…. Regards, PK If you still don’t get it, push the clutch with your arm and see what’s happening
  4. pk2
    Hello, I have a Perfect Power SMT6 AIC I want to use on my Supercharged Boxster. PP has no installation notes specific to this car. I can muddle through it but I need some general infoemation Ignition: The manual goes into great detail on all sorts ways of determining your ignition type with an oscilloscope. I don’t have easy access to one. So Inially need to know the following #1 question is, what type of ignition doses this have ignition? choices are: a) Missing tooth operation B) Single Ignition advance & retard + frequency fuel c) Single ignition advance & retard + road speed governor d) Two ignition advance & retard e) Single ignition advance & retard + PWM fuel f) Odd signal retard #2 How should I determine the dwell ? #3) Number opf teeth on flywheel and (60?) number of teeth per firing (20?)? Thats all for now, THanks in advance, PK
  5. pk2
    Ditto, I think anaysis is correct. Surprised you can hear it though. Regards, PK
  6. pk2
    Well what can we all say... "I'll be da_med" ...popn' champagne corks in the back of a convertible Porsche... regards, PK
  7. pk2
    He means, stick your head under the dash , look up at the clutch pedal arm and you’ll see a little switch (black box). Pull the 2 little wires off of it and join them with a piece of wire. Try again (to start). Regards, PK
  8. pk2
    Sounds like for all the world like your electric fans on the radiators aren’t working for whatever reason. I’ve never gone over 180 in 4 years of So. Cal traffic Regards, PK
  9. pk2
    Hey Marcie, I’ve been scratching my head about my leaks. As I recall, my own liners are really not attached to anything. They seem, for the most part, to be just laying in there. Are they supposed to be affixed? If so, contact cement all over? Regards, PK
  10. pk2
    Thanks, This true and I’m pretty vigilant about this sort of thing as you will see. Not sure how this post got resurrected. It was back in October I had the problem. Go here (in this thread ) for solution, still running strong…but with a supercharger no less. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...rt=0#entry83533 Thanks for for the though, PK
  11. pk2
    Loren, Ya, I don’t recall it’s state (plug wise) when I took it (the Motronic) back out again. But, I spent my formative years as the family mechanic for dad’s ever revolving piece of sh@# fleet. I went on to resurrect about 25 of my own by the of by the time I was 25, in part paying for college and in part to drive cool cars I could otherwise never afford. For that reason, I find it hard to believe (or admit) I could have put it back together radically catawampus, but, as you said...So here we are though, 3 months later, humming away without prolems. Regards, PK
  12. pk2
    Your aware of the Durametric? Does most of what what the PST2 less the reprogramming capabilities. I think the PST2is about $1300 v.s. $250 for a Durameric. (not sure about these numbers but someone will set me stright) Regards, PK
  13. pk2
    Your right, thats strange. I think the same. Can't explain the water freely flows in to the car. I’ll stick to my guns though. That is. you ought attack the blockage from the other end (from the wheel well), If a marble, for instance, rolled freely in and down the tube, then got hung at a curve or something, it would seem logical that you could push it (relatively) easily back out the way it came in. That is from the bottom up. (You would have to overcome initial resistance caused by you banging it further into it’s pinch) I think once that stumbling block is removed, I think a complete solution may become more obvious. Regards, PK
  14. pk2
    I seem to recall the VW/Audi link in this department. Big thread somewhere on one of these forums about color of the caps and what they mean, But I don’t think it’s any cheaper. Swepco 715 is a arguably valid replacement at about half the price. Regards, PK
  15. pk2
    Don’t think it's your problem but the Schrader valve is on the passenger side fuel rail up near the cockpit. Looks like a bolt sticking straight up. About a 13 mm. Doubt it's the prob but you could also check your snorkle and opening (unlikely to "grind but could rattle....) If you can get it to buzz with car unloded and parked, a good ole trick is to but a piece of fuel line in your ear and probe around while you hold the throttle at the pond of resonance. Like stethoscope.
  16. pk2
    Your right in asumming that it is a systemic problem to a degree. If you have a wiring diagram I(not toally necessary) ’d find a ground strap they may share exclusively share. Try anything else that shares that ground strap. Also, check the voltages Regards, PK
  17. pk2
  18. pk2
    Hate to butt in... If your drain was dislodged (I don’t believe it can be) your probe would go straight down into the abyss, so to would the water. Removing the fender would be a very expensive and completely unnecessary. Since you are admittedly mechanically challenged, find a good shop and have them try to push (or smash) the blockage from the discharge end of the drain (its right in the wheel well, If there handy, They may well push it right out the top…one way or another. Regards, PK
  19. pk2
    Junic said exactly what I was going to. Since it’s working at all you may just have hobbled it. You may also have some residual moisture in it. What I would do is take it out and open it up make sure It’s dry as a bone. If you see any moldy looking corrosion anywhere wire brush it with a soft wire brush, front an back Do the same with a contacts on the connectors as best you can, If you want , dust it all with contact cleaner (radio shack) or wd40. To get it out is pretty simple, 4 torx head bolts to get the seat out and foist onto the passenger side. There’s two cables that attach to it (clean those out good) Open it up and do the above, Sooner the better. To tool pants point, you can go that route to, but for me, that would be dependant on how close you are is a piwi and what it will cost. Cost of diagnosis and replacement is around $350, guess that’s another reason why I’d see if I could rejuvenate it myself first. Regards, PK O yea, sacrilege I’ sure, but drill a hole or 2 down there at a low point and prime them. You’ll probably have another leak at some point, but this way all you’ll have only to worry about a wet carpet. .
  20. pk2
    Hey Maurice, can’t move around these forum without bumping into you. I’m going have to post some pixs so you can see what I got. Don’t want hijack this thread though. But in short, If I’m reading you, my cars amiss. Nothing in those wells is sealed to anything else. The foam lining just lays in there. A plastic tube that drops into the drain hole just flops around, attached to nothing, etc, etc. Regards, PK P.S. Going to leave the top down for a few days, remarkable, with it all closed up, condensation cloms on and in everything in a big way, like an ecosystem in there.
  21. pk2
    Actually I probably used 12-14 gauge coated solid (maybe braided) copper electrical wire. It went all the way through and out the bottom with a bit of muck on the end. Repeated several times. Still got the problem...big time. Regards, PK
  22. pk2
    I’m subscribing to this one. I’ve had the same prob. on both sides for ever. I can run a coat hanger down my drains ( feels like there’s and “S” shaped bend though you might be hitting, about half way down…be aware) Regards, Peter
  23. pk2
    Fuses, wire, sure, check 'em. Feel around under the driver seat for moisture. If you find a soggy carpet , get the box down there out ASAP, open it up dry and clean it. Then find where you have a leak, fix it. Drain holes in the engine compartment are a nice place to start. Regards, PK
  24. pk2
    As you’ve probably found, there’s lots of debate on the merits of aftermarket headers, I’ve only read of one guy who got a semi-verifiable significant boost with headers and I believe it was in conjunction with a complete exhaust system. (and more?). In general (with few exceptions) it seems that headers alone give you about a 2% hp boost at best and sometimes degrade performance. So you’re talking $600 per horsepower. It would seem Porsche really got it right with there design. Regards, PK
  25. pk2
    What do you mean by “hold the belt? Is it flying off? I assume you’ve checked to see if your new belt is the same size as your old. Could be you’ve wound up with a miss sized pulley somewhere for some reason. You can go to a good old fashioned Auto Parts store and get a Dayco or Gates belt the next size down I looked into that when I thought I had tensioner problem. It looked to me you had to practically take every d_m accessory of the front of the engine. Make sure your belt is firmly seated on the bottom most (crank?) pulley. From what I gleaned, I’d exhaust ever other possibility before I attacked the tensioner. Good luck, PK
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