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Dharn55

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Everything posted by Dharn55

  1. Dharn55
    There is a calibration function for the convertible tops. The dealer can do this with their special tools (used to be PST2, now a newer version) or the latest release of the Durametric OBD tool can recalibrate the top. This may fix your problem, although it could be more than calibration. There are a lot of micro switches, etc. in the system. Good luck.
  2. Dharn55
    I also have the HVAC control in the bottom spot. A few years ago I got the upper shelf in leather, came from a Turbo and I got it on eBay for about $25, a great deal, much nicer than the plastic ones. Kind of rare to find a leather one but I am always watching eBay for this kind of stuff.
  3. Dharn55
    Of course if you take it to your Porsche dealer they are going to tell you you need a Re-manufactured engine. That is pretty much standard at the dealers. High profit low knowledge solution. If you are dropping the pan and checking the filter you will see any contamination, but the rattle you are hearing is most likely the tensioners. If you drop the trans/engine you can have a good look at the IMS bearing. And few dealers are doing this upgrade. Not a OEM part, etc. etc.
  4. Dharn55
    A little harder than on a C2. Just did mine about a month ago. The drive shafts keep the carrier from going down far enough for the top of the strut to clear the fender. Becasue of this you have to remove to ball joints on each side and the drive shafts. I got this ball joint remover from Harbor Freight http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-point-joint-separator-99849.html Worked great. I think I paid only $7.99 for it. You also need a spring compressor. Again here is the one I got at Harbor Freight http://www.harborfreight.com/macpherson-strut-spring-compressor-set-3980.html Again it worked fine. As for the drive shafts, while the manuals say to remove the nuts at the wheels carrier, don't bother. You would need a press to get them out of the carriers. The splined end of the shafts will slide right out of the center differential, pull them out carefully once you separate the ball joints, by moving the carrier toward the outside of the car, and protect the splines. This will allow the carrier to drop far enough for the top of the strut to clear the fender. When you are reassembling the carrier and reinserting the shaft into the differential slide them in carefully. You will them need to push them into the differential until the shafts are set into the seals. I used a wooden dowel and a rubber mallet to do this. It helps to take of the plastic cowl under the car to get access. Let me know if you need further advice.
  5. Dharn55
    A dealer should certainly be able to tell you if there is a difference. Unfortunately my PET is only for US spec cars. Look on the catalytic converter for the part number and post it. We may be able to find out with the part number.
  6. Dharn55
    Seems unusual as the car should run with or without a MAF. I know I forgot to plug the harness in on mine once and did not notice is until the CEL came on. Strange that it runs without the MAF but won't start with it plugged in.
  7. Dharn55
    You should not need to remove the starter.
  8. Dharn55
    Take the cover off the brake fluid reservoir and cover it to keep fluid from spilling, remove the cotter pin, remove the brake pin, take out the sensors, remove the spring and slide out the pads. You may have to compress the pads into the cylinder slightly to slide out the pads, and definitely will have to compress the pistons back into the calipers to get new pads in, there are tools for both extracting the pads and compressing the pistons. If you are replacing the vibration dampers it may be easier to remove the calipers, but it can de done without removing them.
  9. Dharn55
    Of course you can change the oil and filter yourself for less than $100.
  10. Dharn55
    You don't need to remove the caliper to change the pads.
  11. Dharn55
    It is not just a round hole. There is a flat side to control the orientation of the MAF.
  12. Dharn55
    You may also want to consider replacing the swirlpots. If a piece of metal does get picked up by a scavenger pump it is sent through a swirlpot before it goes back to the oil pan. They are not expensive.
  13. Dharn55
    All the C4's have e-throttle, C2's only after 2000. There must be something happening with the e-throttle. Not sure if this is in the pedal electronics, the DME or the throttle body. Maybe another member knows how to trouble shoot this.
  14. Dharn55
    The idea of a leak from the top might be right. Check the fluid reservoir to see if it is low, if it is leaking that much though the reservoir should be about empty. Again, am I right thinking this is from infront of the rear wheel?
  15. Dharn55
    Sounds like the leak is in front of the tire. If that is the case none of the sources logray is listing would be the source of the leak. But there really isn't anything in front of the wheel to leak oil (at least that I can think of).
  16. Dharn55
    All cars don't have oil pressure when they first start up (actually there are systems to pre-pressurize the oiling systems, but they are rather exotic). And it is normal for a car to be a little rougher until it is fully started. If you look at the oil pressure gauge you will see that it takes a second or two to register pressure. On older 996's the chain tensioners can leak down more and take a few seconds to pump up, this is one reason that you may have some roughness and/or hear a little chain rattle on start up. You can replace the tensioners with the new/updated tensioners which may reduce this somewhat.
  17. Dharn55
    Not sure I agree with the metal everywhere in a failing/failed bearing. Lots of cars are being "saved" with failing bearings these days, look at the Flat 6 and LN sites, along with posts on the misc blogs. The first thing I would do is to take off the oil filter, cut it open and roll it out to look for metal fragments. Then I would drain the oil and drop the pan to look for fragments. If you find much this might indicate/validate a bearing problem (although you will find some if the pan has never been dropped since new). And even if the bearing is throwing off some fragments that are getting beyond the seals on the bearing, they should be pretty much filtered/caught by the screens in the oil intake and the oil filter. I would go ahead and drop the engine and look at the bearing, this is the real confirmation, and has to be done whether the engine is toast or not.
  18. Dharn55
    azrob - The noisy start up really has nothing to do with the IMS bearing,it is the chains and the tensioners. Porsche did redesign the type of chain in 2000 and the tensioners later. I think this may have helped on the start up noise. But you can't update the chains without a new crank, IMS, etc. You can install new/updated tensioners, and the tensioners will wear and stick. Replacing the tensioners is a recommended part of upgrading the IMS bearing.
  19. Dharn55
    Could be a chain tensioner that drained down and the chain is rattling. This is not uncommon, many 996's have a little chain rattle when they first start up, until the tensioners get enough oil. Some say to replace the tensioners if you hear a chain rattle. It could also be the IMS bearing. The problem with checking the oil filter is that the OEM bearing is sealed, so you will not see any particles unless the bearing is far enough gone to push out the shields. If you shut the engine off right away you probably have not done much damage and the IMS bearing upgrade, along with new/updated tensioners is the way to go.
  20. Dharn55
    That is a splitter/connector for vacuum lines. One line has come disconnected. You need to find it.
  21. Dharn55
    Counting their money?:offtopic:
  22. Dharn55
    Do a quick Google search on "exhaust cutout valve" and you will find a plethora of sources for these. Some come with flanges, etc. You should be able to find something that would work. I am surprised that no one has tried this yet on the 996's. I can tell you that I love my PSE because I have the option of letting it be loud or quieting it down. Sometimes the loud setting just gets to be too much, and if you get on it it really is loud.
  23. Dharn55
    Normally I would be reluctant to disagree with Loren, I know he has corrected me, and rightly so, on several occasions. But the manual states that torque on the oil pan bolts is 7.5 ftlbs, not 37 ftlbs. If you try 37 ftlbs you are going to strip the case out and be in for major problems. The oil drain plug to the oil pan is 37 ftlbs.
  24. Dharn55
    Under the driver's seat
  25. Dharn55
    Will the new lenses make the wheels different? Just kidding. You will find the 5 spoke wheels on eBay on a regular basis, both OEM and aftermarket. Make sure you get the right offset though.
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