Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Dharn55

Contributing Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    845

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Dharn55

  1. Dharn55
    Suspension upgrade is the most worth while with the biggest real impact. Next the muffler mod is you want it to be louder. I have the PSE setup with the switch and quite frankly I really enjoy the ability to go from "loud" to "quiet." However the PSE has gotten ridiculously expensive. I think Fabspeed make a switchable system now at a faction of the Porsche PSE. The others mods are less effective. Maybe the strut brace, but the cars are pretty stiff without it. The intake and plenums are mostly non-productive. Do some searches on the various boards and you will find a lot of threads on these subjects. In general when dyno's the result are mostly nil.
  2. Dharn55
    The AOS on a 996 does have coolant running through it. Based on this I would think a crack/leak somewhere in the AOS could put a little coolant into the system. Haven't really heard of this. How does the oil itself look. The only oil in the AOS should be vapors so I would not expect to see oil in the coolant. One thing to keep in mind on intermixes is that when the engine is off, and so the oil pressure is non-existent, and crankcase pressure is down, the coolant is still heated/pressurized, so it can force its way into the oil areas.
  3. Dharn55
    New engine from Porsche with warranty is a good thing. Not sure why the RMS has "been replaced?" The new engine came with a new RMS, did they have to repalce that one. All in all sounds like a great option for a car to buy. You should still have a PPI done for any other problems.
  4. Dharn55
    In the various versions of PET that I have (6.2, 7.1 and 7.2, with 7.1 and 7.2 updated to the latest version) there is no listing for .57. Also porscheoemparts.com does not have a listing or reference for that part number. Both PET and the online look up still show .54 as the part for some -00 and .55 superseded to .56 as 00+.
  5. Dharn55
    Based on my experience the head gaskets could probably be changed with the engine in the car, but what a PITA. I can drop my engine/trans is 3+ hours in the driveway, another 3+ to put it back in. I think it would save that much time from trying to do this work with the engine in the car. Access is really tight and a lot of stuff has to come off. Plus you have a lot of torquing and angle tightening to do with the head bolts, then setting the cam timing, etc. If you are going to do this you should also replace some cam chain pads, etc. etc. What makes you think the head gaskets need to be replaced. The failure of the head gaskets is really uncommon in these engines.
  6. Dharn55
    The hose you are holding in the picture is a power steering hose. I would check the pump are for leaks and the reservoir for the level of the fluid.
  7. Dharn55
    That is great news. Curios, what is a front plate gasket? Had my engine is pieces and never new there was a front plate. If $1,850 is more than half the repairs, is the total more than $3,000. that seem like a lot for a coolant tank and oil filler tube.
  8. Dharn55
    if it is an intermix they can often be fixed, do a search or my threads. When I had my intermix in fall of 2008 basically everyone said I had to get a new engine. Well for less than $1,500 in parts and having the head fixed (a cracked head was the source of the intermix) and a significant amount of my time (learning curve) I now have over 11,000 miles on my fixed engine. More and more owners are fixing (or having fixed) engines with intermix. Even Jake Raby is now fixing cracked heads and Jake is a perfectionist.
  9. Dharn55
    Last time I checked there were a few of the old tensiioners in Germany, but that was last year.
  10. Dharn55
    Sides, there should be two little grooves that they fit into.
  11. Dharn55
    Looks about the color when the oil and coolant intermix. Take a look at your oil and your coolant to see if there is any sign of intermix.
  12. Dharn55
    Here is a simple one that happened to me once. Check and make sure the engine lid is shut all the way. If it is ajar the top won't go up or down.
  13. Dharn55
    Just found these listings on eBay for tool sets for the 996 3.4 and 3.6 engines. One of the best prices I have seen for these tools. Here is the one for the 3.4 engine. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-Camshaft-Alignment-Tool-Kit-Boxster-911-996-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3cb85d2fecQQitemZ260791152620QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools Seems to have two of the cam hold down tools for removing the cam cover. two tools for holding the cam in place after the cover is removed, OEM style cam allocation tool, TDC locking pin and what looks like the tools for installing the wrist pins when rebuilding the engine/installing the 1-3 pistons. At $599 (with another 5% off before May 31st) it is the lowest price I have seen for these tools, particularly when it includes the wrist pin tools. Here is the one for the 3.6 (VarioCamPlus) engine. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-Camshaft-Alignment-Tool-Kit-For-997-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3cb85d2feeQQitemZ260791152622QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools In this case it is only the cam allocation tools and a TDC locking pin. But only $155. You would still need the two sets of cam hold down tools. Just thought I would post this for others doing work on their engines. I have a diagram and have made one of these tools, but the set for the 3.4 engine would have been very helpful when I had my cams out.
  14. Dharn55
    That bracket is actually built into the "lid" part, used to be 996.101.021.51/52, now superseded to 997.101.021.00, list is $63.24, discounted about $53.92. You will also need the gasket that goes behind it, 996.101.331.50, list $4.08 discounted $2.37.Be prepared to loose some coolant when you change it out.
  15. Dharn55
    Absolutely you can replace this without splitting the cases. You can do it with the engine in the car, but will have to support it so you can remove the rear engine carrier to have good access to the oil pump. Can't remember if you have to take the whole oil pump off or just the cover over the gears.
  16. Dharn55
    Also do a visual check of the chain tensioners. The IMS to Crank and the 1-3 side are easy to get at. Lock the engine at TDC and take out one at a time. If they are scoured or worn then they will take some time to pump up and you can get some chain rattle on start-up. They are not expensive, and can be replaced with the engine in the car. The 4-6 side requires removing the AC compressor to get at it. You might want to check these first, it could be the source of the noise.
  17. Dharn55
    Sorry I know you sent me a PM on this and I did not have the time to get back to you. There is no specific instruction or diagrams in the manuals, and PET only has a picture of the unit, not the location. Also took a look at the Youtube video of the Boxster engine rebuild and they show the components going on top of the engine but I can't see this one with precision. I know it bolts onto the top of the engine and extends down into the oil pan, but I am not sure where.
  18. Dharn55
    Pretty sure that side skirts for a Boxster won't fit a 996. The body is different from the back of the doors rearward. If you look at the various suppliers of side skirts they all have different ones for Boxsters and 996's
  19. Dharn55
    I think the on position is the default. I know on my cab I usually turn off the system with the top down and it always turns back on with the lowest fan setting when the car is restarted. Same on most of the other 996's I know of. Maybe Loren got a special one :clapping:
  20. Dharn55
    Try the screwdriver trick to isolate where the noise is coming from. Take a long screwdriver or other ling metal rod and touch it to various places on the engine are other components while touching the other end to the bone in front of your ear. A stethoscope will also work if you have one. If it is a mechanical knocking you should be better locate where it is coming from. Once you have done that post on here so we can be of more help.
  21. Dharn55
    Great to hear that you are OK and back on the road!!
  22. Dharn55
    Changing the three tensioners on the IMS/Crank, IMS/Exhaust cams is pretty easy, maybe an hour or two with the engine in the car. The only difficult one is the 4-6 side as it is under the AC Compressor so that has to be removed. The advances mechanisms are a lot more work. I think you can swap out the solenoids, maybe even without removing the cam covers, have to go back and look at some pics to be sure. But to R&R the advance mechs you have to remove the cam covers and the cams, much bigger and more complicated job and hard to do with the engine in the car. If you want to do it I can give you some help in terms of pics etc.
  23. Dharn55
    Maybe a bad oil level sender, part #996.606.150.00, lists for $59.98. Kind of a PIA to change but not that bad.
  24. Dharn55
    For the cam advance mechanism there really hasn't been a major redesign. The early models (-98) had part numbers 996.105.051.57 (1-3) now superseded to 996.105.051.58 which was the part number for 99+, and 996.105.053.57 (4-6) now superseded to 9936.105.053.58 for 99+. The primary change was that the threaded hole in the base plate for the tool used to compress them for removal was changed from right to left hand threads. Only the new part numbers are available. If you have a 4-6 that is "Sleepy" it may be the solenoid part that can be replaced separately that is faulty or it could be the valve/cylinder part that is faulty. I have a used set of the older ones for both sides, and a new in the box one for the 1-3 side. How do you know it is sleepy. Have you watched the advance with a Durametric using actual values? You can also advance or disable it with a Durametric.
  25. Dharn55
    The TSB is 1551. You can find it here on the DIY Menu if you are a member. _150_Carrera_New_Drive_Chain_and_Seal_for_Intermediate_Shaft.pdf
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.