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Mine drives fine tested at 115 degrees in Tucson, AZ. My pig had similar issues recently and it was just the fuel pump. I had all kinds of codes from the car idling so erratically. Nearly all the codes you had and then some. Pull fuel pump fuse no.14 and see if she runs better at low RPM's on the secondary pump only. That's an easy test. Good Luck.
See if she runs/idles better after pulling the main fuel pump fuse No. 14 in the engine driver's side fuse box. If she runs on the secondary pump better at low speeds, you may have clogged up your fuel filter with the crud that Seafoam loosens up. It's best to have a vac line suck it into the intake, but it really smokes. Might also try a e-throttle calibration if carbon was holding the butterfly flap open a bit. Adjustment instructions are in the owners manual. How do the spark plugs look?
BOOSTTT replied to Papagut's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)I just did both fuel pumps FPR and Filter. The Pelican tutorial is very good, and you do not need any special tool. The retainer ring is very easy to remove with a few taps with a screwdriver and hammer. The sealing ring is difficult to seat with little room. Just make sure your fuel lines are zip tied up out of the way of the fuel gauge bobber. I did not do that and had to go back in to allow it to raise all the way. Not hard to do. The carpet has pre-cuts to follow as well. Just be sure and have all windows and doors open for air and unplug the battery after you disable the suspension control, (pull the fuse) unless your on a perfectly level location. When I plugged my battery in, my suspension was way out of whack. That took 100 times longer to fix than the fuel pump replacement.
I had a similar issue after unplugging the battery and installing fuel pumps on a fairly pitched down driveway. Before I put all my stuff away, I started the 04 Cayenne Turbo, and all my wheels were at rediculously different levels and my Durametric could not read my values, as usual....Durametric is a pain to use for adaptation to suspension btw. The rear was jacked up and it had a major tilt to the driver's side. After lots of hours trying to get my faulty suspension light to go off with getting the Durametric values equal, I did get the light off, but still jacked up and leaning to the side, but no dash warning lights. I released pressure from the highest wheel...rear Rt. and nothing came out. no air pressure, but I did pull the fuse b4 jacking her up. I took off the sensor with major problems with the sensor screws...rusted in, but with PB Blaster, I was able to loosen it and move it around. I then used my favorite tool. I lightly tapped the sensor with a hammer to "hopefully" allow whatever was stuck to release. I dropped her down, plugged in the fuse, and to my dismay, she is almost perfectly level now. At first the Durametric would not accept any values on the front, but I tried a trick. I jacked up the front just to where I thought it looked right. I could just fit my open hand above the wheel and fender. I started typing in values, and they were accepted this time quickly. Of course, you have to get all new values saved or it will not complete and you will have a warning. I have not read about anyone else doing this, but it worked for me after about a wk of messing with the Durametric values. I hope this could help someone with my similar issues. Seems really common. I think I'm going to need a new level sensor. I also did the air compressor O-ring replacement and that speeds up the leveling for sure. Got it from United Kingdom on ebay for around 20 Dollars. Works really well. Easy job. Just drop the bracket. No need to take the pump out or remove any hoses. Cheers!
That still sounds steep. I'm about to repaint my black front bumper for 750. They say they follow factory specs...Factory paint, number of coats as factory (per VIN#) and same clear-coat that the car would have had from Porsche, so they say? Sounds too good to be true, but this shop is gigantic and is always 100% packed with nice cars. Had them replace a rear trailer arm on my crappy Z3 I used to own. Good rep too.
I have the same tires on my 03 996 turbo and love them! I do have the camber more neutral than stock on the rears so more tred is holding/wearing more even. Great traction with 19's, but wear a little quick. Maybe it's because I drive like a madman. LOL
That's kinda pushin the raggety edge for boost pressure on 93 octane.....1.2 bar that is. 1.0 should not be a problem. Do you know the heat rating on your spark plugs? Have good fuel pressure? Clogged cats can cause some funky issues too....Just thinking. Hmmm. A bad MAF can give bad readings if it is too dirty. May just spray that down with some carb cleaner if the sensor looks black or dirty. I have heard that does not always throw a code for some reason.
Just a guess, but if you may be getting a knock sensed. When you have pre-detonation, doesn't the car go into a safety boost mode or something? I would just start by making sure you have some high octane gas. I always add 2 gal of Toluene and can boost to about 22psi in 100+ heat in Tucson w/o problems. Toluene will not hurt your fuel lines at that level, or hurt your cats at all. May be worth a try. I can't think of anything else, unless you have low fuel pressure or something? Hope that helps.
That explains why it honks when it's charging, as the trunk is open. The trunk light does eventually go off on it's own when the car sits for a few min.s. I can see the door lights go out as well. I will do more testing this wk. end. I really want to find this so I can move on to the intermediate shaft bearing next. $2200 sound normal? Is it really difficult to do yourself. I have much experience with most cars, but not so much with the 996. Thanks for your replies!
I was pulling the fuses, but stopped after about 5 because the wires on my meter were burning hot, so I stopped. I do have a full stereo syst. Just installed a new Kenwood GPS, but was draining prior to that. I made sure my remote switch to the amp only turned on when the ignition was turned on, but I guess I could disconnect the amp to see if the drain decreases. Amp was in when I bought the car. I actually do get a little less drain with the alarm on, but still kills my battery in under 6 hours. I could not even keep it charged with my battery tender running at 1.5 amps. Still dead in the morning. I went up to a 2.0 amp charger and got up to 12.46 volts over 2 days, but goes up to 13.36 when the battery is out of the car. I have heard the alarm shorts sometimes because of water getting in it through the horn???? Funny..When I arm the alarm/door locks, it honks only about 1 out of 20 times??....like when it is on the charger only. Horn sounds normal when driving though. Could there be gremlins running around in there? :-) I'm glad to be back in the Porsche community!!! It's been a few years. Been building a 300ZX Twin Turbo that is flawless in every way. 547 RWHP and 563TQ. The porsche turbo is my dream car though. hope I can find this drain so I can take it to work and have it start when it's time to go home. LOL
Hello. I'm new on here. 2nd Porsche. 03 996 turbo. I just bought this wonderful machine, but have a major battery drain. It is pulling 317 milliamps when parked!!! My multimeter is nearly melting when I tested the drain....Neg battery post to ground.... and had a huge draw from the battery. I have a brand new battery, but it's dead in just hours. 2 batteries, in fact, both drained quick. The alt. seems to be fine. Any "common areas I should check first?" Thanks