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jsoderbe

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Everything posted by jsoderbe

  1. Thanks Dammad, great thread, I will check those things. Regards, Johan
  2. Found the problem! Just missed to attach the microswitch attached to the left side cylinder. So, FINALLY the tops works as it is supposed to do..... Almost. The fabric ends up outside the frame on the left side. Not all the way, just couple of inches. I will use the search function to find info on that one! Thanks, Johan
  3. Hi guys, So, I have spent some time occasionally to fix my convertible top. I have had all kinds of problems, due to PO's neglect. So far I have fixed 1. Repaired broken convertible top frame, the support for the rearmost part was broken on both sides. 2. Swapped out both hydraulic cylinders due to bad leaks. 3. Fixed the window frame lock microswitch with the superglued 2 mm plastic part fix. So now I basically only have one problem left, that actually is a new problem; When opening the top, it stops several times on its way back to the folded position. When it is all the way back, when the clam shell should close, it doesnt. The hydraulic pump for the top seems to try and fold the top even more, like there is a micro switch that cant feel that the top is folded. This was no problem before, when I lovered it manually the clam shell closed, and so did the side flaps. Fluid level is ok. Anyone who has an idea where I should look? Thanks, Johan
  4. Hi guys, First, thanks for a great writeup! I followed it step by step, but screwed up.... When pulling the bushing on top, I dropped it! I did not see it fall down, and then I spent one hour trying to find it. It is nowhere to be found, I looked everywhere, poked with a screw driver, vacuumed, tapped with a hammer. I would guess I had a 99 % chance it wold just fall on the floor inside the car, but no. So, does anyone have a good idea how to resolve this unfortunate situation? Thanks, Johan
  5. Yes, I will buy vaculift next trip to the US in march. It is way too expensive to sent it over to me in Europe, adding shipping and duties. Looks like the Durametic has to wait too.... Thanks, Johan
  6. Hi, today I removed the heater core to repair the heater flap. It was pretty straight-forward to remove it, but I got somewhat of a surprise; even though I just have replaced all the coolant with new red-ish one, the coolant in the heater core was the old green! To me that points towards no circulation, meaning air pocket in heater core. Is there an other reason for it, that I need to adress? Thanks, Johan
  7. Did you have a reputable shop repair the heads? From what I understand they need to cut out a pretty big piece and start repairing from the inside out. They cant just weld the superficial crack. At least that is my understanding. I am definately no expert, but there shold not be coolant in oil without oil in coolant. Reason is that the oil pressure is higher than coolant pressure. Of course, when the crack is big enough there will be intermix, but that is intermix both ways. However, coolant pressure should be higher than oil pressure when engine is turned off hot, but you should still have oil in coolant. Even though it does sound unlikely that you should have another non-related problem at the same time, I should at least check for other reasons before I pull the engine again. Thanks, Johan
  8. Thanks Hobbes and Logray, the car started today and I drove it off for new oil and coolant. Excellent DIY! Johan
  9. Ok, got an hour this evening, and decided to put the car back together. Unfortunately I could not find out where to put the coolant hose from the oil cooler (this one was broken for me, creating a massive coolant leak), and unfortunately I was not smart enough to take a picture.... I think it was attached to the coolant reservoir, but the inner diameter of the hose is only 8 mm on the oil cooler side, but on the coolant reservoir it looks like maybe 12-15 mm. Anyone who know if I am going in the right direction? Besides this it worked out gret, I just need to get it to the shop for a vacuum coolant fill! Thanks, Johan
  10. Hi, I just finished reinstalling the intake bolts, and I could reach them all from the left side of the intake. To be honest I don't know how you even can reach the last bolt from under the intake? Also, I realized that removing the coolant tank isn't necessary either. There is enough room to get the intake bolts out anyway. Neither is a lot of work, maybe I would have saved 1,5 hours. The alternator was a nightmare to get out, but simple to put back in. Maybe a tiptronic is different? Could I have something more mounted under the intake, which make it impossible to reach the bolt from under the intake? Regards, Johan
  11. Hi, I am just putting my car back together after following you DIY. One question, is the alternator removal necessary? Is it to reach the last upper intake bolt? Thanks, it was an excellent writeup! Johan
  12. Thanks Loren! Just wish I would have had the same luck finding a drivers seat, but all the one or sale for a resonable price are all to worn for my taste.... :-( Thanks, Johan
  13. It's all good, I'm sure I will get it fixed shortly. I just scored a steering wheel at Pelicanparts, with the part number 996.347.804.54 C60. Would that mean Graphite Grey? I do hope so.... Thanks, Johan
  14. Hi, Attached is a picture of the passenger seat, which show the color of the interior. Also I have attached a picture of the badly worn driver seat and steetring wheel. And here is a picture of the front hood sticker: Any thoughts? Thanks, Johan
  15. Hi, Could someone please help me to find out what interior color I have? I need to recover the steering wheel, and there are too many grey interior choices. The label in the trunk says L3A8 CM. The car is a US 2001 996 Carrera. Thanks, John
  16. Hi, I got the car back from the shop today, and it looks like the AOS was the problem! I'm saying "looks" since I prefer to drive it some more before I can say for sure. My friend owning the shop said that it still smoked heavily when they started it up. Worse than that was that there was a very hard sounding noise coming from the engine when revving it. He is a very experienced engine guy, and he was not sure what it was. It sounded like crank bearings, but it can't be since it vanished after he re-started it. I just drove the car back, and took it for a 15 mile drive. It ran excellent, I'm impressed by the power even though it has 110 k miles on it. Afterwards it came some minor smoke from the exhaust, but I guess it can be oil residue from the intake that get's into the engine when the car is driven hard. When it is left to idle it clears up in a minute or two. I'm kind of concerned about the noise, and since I couldn't hear it myself I can't explain it. Anyone that have an idea? Something clutch related? Cam chains, valves? Anything that might suffer when engine hasn't been started, or when oil pressure isn't high enough? The car has not been started since early June, and was clearly suffering from that. The clutch slipped slightly at first, but gripped after the first initial run. No leaks of oil or coolant. Thanks, Johan
  17. Hmm, my 2000 996 sometimes have a high-pitch squealing noice. Not all the time, though. It sound like it is time to change the AOS on that one too. Back to the '01; I think I will have the answer within a day or two. I am still fairly confident it is the AOS, since I can't figure out another way for oil and coolant to get up into the intake plenum, and to have oil smoke in BOTH exhaust pipes. The symptoms are spot on the ones listed in te excellent 24 page DIY posted here, cant remember the name of the poster. I seems like the AOS can break in severl different ways. I still havent read someone that got oil in coolant from a broken AOS though. That would have been interesting, with my 2000 996 with intemix.... Thanks, Johan
  18. Hi Logray, Sorry about the confusion, this s not my 2000 996 with intermix. This is a 2001 996 parts car I bought with supposed engine failure. It is kind of funny, the car with engine failure could maybe only suffer from a bad AOS, and the ok car turned out to have intermix. So AOS could cause intermix? Could that be the problem with my 2000 996? Regards, Johan
  19. Hi again, Now the car is over here in Europe, after three months in shipping! I left the car at a friends shop yesterday, and I am waiting to hear about the end result. However, he did not find the amounts of oil in the intake that I expexted. He did find coolant and oil in there, but the oil was more dry than fluid. The AOS was all gooey from leaks on the outside, but he could not say anything about the internals. Unfortunately the oil filler tube broke, so we cant start it up yet to confirm AOS failure.... Can it really be anything else? I am just concerned after speaking to a guy that cracked a cylinder in his 2001 996. Johan
  20. Hi again, in my case it was the oil level, due to a leaking right hydraulic cylinder. It seems like a straight-forward fix, I just need to get it out and rebuilt. Thanks for all your input! Regards, Johan
  21. Hi Loren, I disconnected the battery when installing fresh seats.... Becker 220 Type 4462 Serial X5031370 Thanks, Johan
  22. Just to close this thread; it turned out to be the front sway bar drop links. I changed them while changing to H & R springs, and now the suspension is nice and quiet! Thanks, Johan
  23. Thanks for the reply guys! I have a bunch of other problems with the car right now, so I haven't really had the time to fix this. Is the e brake switch the same for convertible as for coupé? I have one of these in the garage already.... Does the hydraulic motor make any sound when the oil level is low? Or is it disconnected by a oil level switch? Thanks, Johan
  24. Thanks Loren, I will do that, car is being shipped so it will take a few weeks. Great advice! Regards, Johan
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