Oldguy57

New update; after more than 800Km after replacing the cap with a new one I have not had any issue with the coolant, so I assume it was only a cap problem. Thanks Loren,for your advise, the cap is a common problem, and it was a 04 one!

Update: So I replaced the cap with a new one, been driving it around for 2 times for about 70 kms, have not had any more fluid loss, engine temps stays around 80 C with the fans kicking in just a tad over 80 C as always, I still keeping an eye on it every time and at the level when it completely cools down and everything seems normal, for now. I'll keep a close eye on it, but does it make sense to assume it was only a cap problem? Thanks in advance for any feedback on this issue. Have a great day! Fermin

Hello again, finally it was easier for me to get a new pressure tank cap, as I have not lost any more fluid I plan to drive it again with a new cap and keep it on check. If the problem do not repeat I tend to think that it was caused by a malfunction of the cap, does it make sense? does a "loose" cap could do that, maybe I didn't tighten it enough?(when I added coolant, I don't think so but, could it be?) Thanks again for your help!

I will check it, thank you!

Hello Loren, the cap number is 996.106-447.04 Could it be the problem? Should I replace it before driving it again? Thanks More details about my car: Boxster 1998, 2.5 manual, 100000kms bought about 5 yrs ago with 85000kms

Advise appreciated This morning as I was checking oil dipstick oil level I also added a little of Porsche engine coolant to my tank to get it to about 3-4 mm off the max level. I added some cause I wanted to keep it at this level, (have not added any since about 2 summers ago). Went out and drove for about 30 k, when got to destination I lost some coolant.... that's it I think the tank has cracked, so I bought some water to replace the fluid in order to get back home again. As is difficult to really see the level in plain sunlight, I added water, to my surprise just could add about 150-200ml max ? Put the cap back again and started the engine, it never got hot (all the time the needle was in the 80 C mark) so I decided to drive back home, didn't lost any more fluid and engine temp was OK all the time, even if it was a warm day (29-30C) At home took the plastic sheet beneath the oil and coolant caps, and noted that there was signs that coolant had gone by the overflow drain. Didn't lost any more fluid, but I extracted around 150 ml of coolant with a seringue to get it to the max level once the engine had somewhat cooled down. I replaced the cap some about 3 yrs ago, with the new one, I had the original and read somewhere that it could be a good idea to replace it, so I did. Should I replace it again? Could it be just the cap malfunctioning? I was planning to drive it again tomorrow around here to see if everything is normal (as it seems!). Thanks in advance for any advise, I reatly will appreciate it. Fermin Boxster 2.5 1998

Boxter 1998 2.5. Today used the key to open my door, left home and when I tried to lock it (with the key, remote doesn't work anymore) the lock was stiff and didn't want to release the key! I played with it, couldn't unlock the car, luckily roof was down, finally unlock the door from the inside, pulled out the key and headed back home. I put some oil on the lock (bad idea probably) tried to lock unlock, it locked and again key was stocked.played forced a bit and lock did a full turn,,,, released the key after playing a lot with it! Now I can't lock the car from the console, passenger door locks, trunk lever locks but not the driver's door... I think the lock is broken and it doesn't get electrical signal anymore. What can I do? Thanks in advance for any help on this! Found some tutorial's on Bentley and 100 project's book, anyone with some experience or advise? Thanks, Fermin' Laval, QC.

The Mobil filter is a pretty good filter. Our personal favorites are the Wix/Napa Gold 51042XP, which you can usually get for less money as well. I think Amazon carries them, as well as many auto parts outlets. If you go to this site (http://www.wixfilters.com/WhereToBuy.aspx?ZipCode=) and enter your postal code, they will give you info on who sells Wix in your area. Thank you JFP

Hello JFP, for my next oil change I've been looking to buy a spin oil filter adaptor for my Boxster 2.5L 1998 and locally I can have the Mobil M1-107 filter also recommended by LN, is that a good match? and if I understand it well, it will improve oil filtration, wich is good for the engine. I've allready replaced the oil plug with a magnetic one to inspect for debris. Thanks in advance for your (always very good!) advise. Fermin

Ahsai, thanks a lot!; also I read in other forums that it could be the seal (old and cracked) of the gas cap, mine was, so I changed it today and erased the code... will see... but if it comes back I'll know the next step, Thanks!

Hello, got the P0446 code today, I've been reading in the forums that I'll need to, as a first step, blow compressed air in to the purge line from the EVAP Cannister, I have some diagrams but how do I do that, from the cannister? and how do I know which is the purge air line? Any help with this will be greatly appreciated, thanks. Porsche Boxster 1998 2.5L engine, manual transmission.

Hello everybody ! Clutch on my Boxster 1998, 90000kms is giving signs of trouble, it "jumps" a bit on 1st or reverse at low RPM. As I bought my car at around 85K, don't know how it was driven, but probably will need a clutch replacement, and RMS at the same time, I live in a Montreal north suburb, does somebody can recommend a good independent Porsche garage around Montreal or Laval,, dealer is a bit overprice. Also, when clutch and transmission are removed, is it possible to verify IMS bearing ? Thanks in advance for any advise on this subject. Happy Boxster drive ! Fermin.

I just bought a Boxster 1998 about a year ago with 87000kms, it's a blast to drive, even if it's a 2.5 ! No issues for now, just the air bag lite.and it was a seatbelt issue. When I was young ( many years ago!) I had the oportinuty to drive several european sports cars, but never a Porsche, abd many years after, (and after raising a family) when I drove the Boxster, I fell in love with it ! Good luck!

You can also have a look here on how to change the brake lever microswitch, I did it this summer, the micro is very cheap to replace!, good luck! http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/

The more I read the forums, the more I know about my car 98 Boxster 87500kms, but also some times the more I worry. I've been reading much about RMS and IMS failures, my car leaks an oil drop between engine and trany, sometimes more often than others, and it seem to me that the more I drive it the less the leakage, could it be? last Sunday, bluebird day, we drove around 300kms, highway and little hilly country roads, not a drop since! Dip stick oil level always right. I'm waiting until I'll have to change the clutch to do it all. Runs great, last srping when I bought it, I did some basic maintenance, changed the motor oil, trany oil, did a 86000kms service with the dealer, flush coolant and brake oil, but they didn't mention anything wrong with the fans. Car runs great but... for me a bit on the warm side, asked questions at the dealer, only to be told that I'm in the "normal temps"... on highway needle is at the bottom of the zero of the 80C temp (Canadian car), but as soon as I get into some light traffic or stop lights, temps tends to go up until the upper part of the 80C zero (I figure temp should be around 100C) and that is when I hear the cooling fans go on, but at a very high speed. Yesterday I did talk with a 2001 Bosxter owner, engine was running, asked for the temp and he told me it always stays around the bottom or middle part of the zero of the 80C, and heard a smooth running of his fans. This evening (is not my daily car) went for a drive, and noted that my cooling fans are probably not turning ON at low speed. Fuses seem right, seems to me a bit rare that the two relays would not be working, I love this car, I'm trying to avoid dealer (overprice and under-service), but I don't know any good independent mechanic around Laval, or Montreal, does anybody know? "Accrochez vous a vos rèves" as JFP in PA say, and any help in keeping this beautiful classical gems in good health would be really appreciated. Fermin

Welcome! I'm also new to the great Boxsters, always deramed to have a Porsche, just bought 2 months ago a 1998 Bosxter Sport Pack 85K kms! So fun to drive, so fun to work on it, and a very nice looking car! what's more to say! very nice, so welcome! :welcome:

Hello everybody: Finally got the answer from Mr Mike Focke, I wasn't holding the convertible top switch long enough after the electric motor began forcing, so the cycle wasn't complete, :oops: finally the light is OFF! had to hold that switch for 4-5 sec more! at first was very scared to do that because of the sound of the motor forcing, and the used car dealer that sold me my Boxster told me to STOP as soon as I heard the motor forcing. so I was a bit lost woth this issue, but now I do not see the light! Thanks again Mike, Maurice and everybody for your input! Best regards! Fermin

Hello again: Well finally I did access the B-pillar micro switch, bend the arm a bit but my dash idiot light stills ON. I've tried everything, as I said changed the brake lever's, and top latch's micro switches, cleaned the motor and B-pillar ones (they clic OK), changed the double relay, nothing... light stays ON. But... if I unplug and put back the relay in any on the top positions, closed, open or halfway, then I restart the engine, light stays OFF, but as soon as it detects any top movement it goes ON and stays on, until I take off the relay and put it back again! Really I'm lost now, could it be that the used car dealer that sold me the car changed the battery? First day I took delivery of the car, was a very nice day, the top was open, and I didn't care to check it with the dealer, obviously a 13 year old car has no warranty whatsoever. Once took it to a Porsche dealer and the didn't find the problem also :unsure: , I think I'll have to live with it, the problem is that when the top is open, the windows will not go up all the way, they do when the convertible top is closed. Any ideas or advise will be greatly appreciated! Best regards everybody! Fermin

Well bad news, the new relay($$) didn't get the problem solved, could it be the B-Pillar microswitch (haven't been able to get to it) or the black box? :( It seems that I'll have to live with this dash light on! The car dealer that sold me the car, changed the battery, cuold this be also part of the problem? Again, I'm lost with this! Any more ideas or help will be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance. Best regards! Fermin

JFP We'll be doing that next week. Thanks a lot! Best regards Fermin

Hello! My car is a Boxster 1998, first Porsche :rolleyes: had it for a month! In order to make easy changing the manual trasmission oil, my friendly mechanic, hwo has a Cayman, told me it would be a good idea to make a hole the size of the draining plug or a bit larger in the metal sheet that has to be diassembled each time, with the metal braces any everything. We like to give our manual transmission frequent oil changes. We don't think it would make any difference as for the metal sheet protector or compromise the integrity of the whole assembly. Any ideas, has someone done that? Thanks in advance for any input on this matter. Best regards! Fermin

I've been fooling around my top problems for the last three weeks. Posts from Maurice helped me a lot!, so try to find all of his posts, and you'll probably find the cause and answer to your problem. As I undersand, there's only one motor located at rhe rear, under center of clamshell, and two transmissions actuated by cables. Did you verify the pushrods with the palstic ball insert? there's one per side? Good luck and Hope this helps!. Best regards

Guy: First of all, we like photos and we try to avoid other Dealers whenever practicable. ....balljoint with the shaft, replaced it, top works fine but the dash light stills on and the windows will not go full up when the top is down.... There are two instances where the light can stay on abnormally. The one you are describing here (top all the way open) is controlled in part by the black lever microswitch that resides on top of the convertible top electric motor ((Just forward of the third brake light). In other part, it is controlled by the Double Relay in the driver's side kickpanel. It's the only double relay there so you can't miss it... You can temporarily defeat this little annoyance by devising either a stack of 1/4" thick blocks of semi-sturdy styrofoam and installing them one a time, on top of the electric motor housing, or, better yet, under the clamshell where it makes contact with that "Black Lever Microswitch. Alternatively, some garages have used a different method, which includes installing (by glue) a suitable spring on the underside of the clamshell such that it will trip the black lever microswith a tad sooner and thereby "fool" the top into "thinking" that it is time to start the "comfort close feature" or "after-running time) as Porsche usually refers to it in its manuals. Here you just have to make sure that the spring can hit, and then DEPRESS" the black lever microswitch. Let us know how you make out and what, if any symptoms have left. Unless the dealer is in a good mood, avoid it like the proverbial plague. FYI, this is one of the few (perhaps even the "only") area of the early (i.e., "A Version") transmissions and set-up that still is providing a bit of a challenge. However, some of you description may provide some useful info to add to the community wisdom here, so, We'll see how that tidbit develops. In the meantime, try the two solutions I suggested and report back. ...decide to change the two micro switchs, the one at the brake lever, and the one at the latch, light is on again, and stills ON.... The brake lever microswitch, when the dashboard idiot light is illuminated, is normal when you pull up on the handbrake and... that is what lets you know that power to the convertible top motor is going to be turned on. The other microswtich (actually there are TWO inside that latch assembly) is the one that has to get tripped/released, in order to keep working properly. If your windows drop the requisite (approximately 4 inches) when you pull on it, then at least one of the two microswitches inside the latch assembly is just fine. To check out the other one, do a search here or go to Mike Focke's Boxster Pages (Google it) to get a number of articles that will familiarize you with the top. ..Congratulations on your new ride.! and remember, we LOVE pics.... .Best Regards, Maurice. Hello Maurice: Thanks a lot for your reply. I just tried two layers, one at a time, of 1/4 in black, self stick medium density foam, gluing them on the micro switch contact point on the clamshell without success, do I have to use a more dense foam? Also tried michaelwakers123's 1 second more on the switch, and also it didn't make any difference. I did not visualise how to install the spring you told me to try, again should I use a more strudy foam? Two more observations: When I unlatch the top, the windos drops 4 inches, stand for a sec or two, and the they drop, one at a time totally, some time the two, sometimes just one. When I open the top, and when it get's at the end of the cycle, when I hear the motor begin to stress and the clamshell is fully closed, if I push the top switch again to continue the cycle, it seems to me that the clamshell tries to open again, weird, isn't it? As for the dealer, well I went there to have some of my car's history. But I'll try to find a independent gagrage, cause the only thing "high end" there is the overpriced service, well overpriced, and it seems to me that they do not have any interest in working with older cars, should be their pride! Again thanks a lot and I do not know what to try anymore, maybe as m2 suggested, the tensioner cables? Have a nice day! Fermin I did try to attach a pic of my ride, but file too big, so I'll try to take a more "light" pic this week end. Fermin: We are definitely on the same page, especially the part that expressed the sentiment that their "older" cars should be the source of tremendous pride...I guess it just doesn't accrue to their proverbial bottom line...It's a short-sighted view in my experience, but greed or financial obligations of certain dealer's make it so. Shame of them....literally! .... ..... Anyway, the fact that you mention that your windows sort of drop independently of each other may mean that there is some moisture/damage/corrosion in the immobiliser unit (under the driver's seat, small, flat, black box). That unit gets wet if the convertible top drains are not always kept clear, as that causes water ingress (and, of course, the water promptly finds its way into the passenger cabin and toasts the unit! The other possibility for that "independent of each other dropping of the windows upon pulling the convertible top latch" may be a faulty double relay (kick panel to the left of your left calf as you sit in the driver's seat ), so it might be worth checking that out, maybe even with another member's working relay. The article that I referred you to will show you photos of the two different types of relays (i.e., Black Triangle on its top surface or Black Rectangle/Square on the top surface of the double relay). With respect to the spring, it has to be a reasonably subtantial one that gets glued on or attached to the underside of the clamshell, but it size (perhaps conical, tapered on the end that faces the black lever microswitch on top of the electric motor. The sping then compresses to not interfere with the tight fitting clamshell when it is full down. It's a little Rube Goldberg, but some mechanics have used it successfully. As far as weirdness: "...When I open the top, and when it get's at the end of the cycle, when I hear the motor begin to stress and the clamshell is fully closed, if I push the top switch again to continue the cycle, it seems to me that the clamshell tries to open again, weird, isn't it?..." , it's not so weird. There are a number of factors which affect that last little bit of travel of the leading edge of the convertible top frame...The amount of tension on the tensioner cables which act on the rearmost main bow, the overall length of the front pushrods, AND, on '97 to '99 Boxsters, there is also the bend in the silver metal tiny arm of the B-Pillar Microswitch to consider. If the B-pillar microswitch's lever is too "open" from its original shape, that will cause it to contact (and then be tripped by) the base of the B-pillar of the convertible top frame. That may also explain the "weird" nature of the problem as that contact causes a signal to travel through the wires to the double relay, which then "dictates": to the electric motor when to stop turning the V-levers. You can experiment with shortening/lengthening the overall length of the front pushrods, as that will also affect how the leading edges of the top will line up with the windshield frame. Note that it is NOT a linear progression and that, once you reach maximum extension, the V-levers will continue to spin for 1 of 2 seconds and then you will notice that the top starts to pull back. It can then "rock" back and forth, so keep that in mind. If, as you mentioned in an earlier post, you have to "pull the front of the top " to make it stretch a little to get it into the fully closed and latched position, then that is something that you can try to ameliorate by adjusting the overall length of the front pushrods: loosen the 10mm bolt with fat washer (after marking your starting position with nail polish or something equivalent) and push the two parts of each one together VERY SLIGHTLY and then tighten the 10mm bolt back on . Be careful with the 10mm bolt and fat washer because the drain hole underneath the V-levers area seems to have magical magnetic properties HaHa)and it has eaten many stray bolts and such. LOL! M2's suggestions is a good one, so , see Keep us posted and I'm looking forward to seeing pics. Regards, Maurice. Hello Maurice: First of all, THANKS A LOT! for taking time to do a very nice,long, detailed and helpfull replies! I did check under the driver's seat carpet, and it looks very clean and no traces of water, but it could be cleaned by the previous owner. On my relay board I have two double relays, tried to pull the one marked with a yellow arrouw, but very difficult and I'm sacred to break something, is that the top relay? it's black, no marks at all! Also I forgot to mention, the previous owner told the used car lot where I got the car, that the convertible top was replaced three years ago,and the fellow that sold me the car, told me to be carefull closing the top and verify for the correct aligment on the two sides, to push the cables inside the frame, before colpetely coling the top. Actually, I have problems most with the driver's side, I noted (trying to find the B-pillar micro, where is it?) that on this side, there's a little retainer pin broken, the one in the picture, other side is OK, this might be causing the alignment problem, but not the dash light ON, isn't it? Finally, I hope, a picture of my ride! for me it was a dream to have a Boxster, and liked a lot the firsts ones, so after 30 years of work and raised a familly, finally I got it! Thanks again, I'll try to work on the alignment of the pushrods, being very careful, I'm allways scared of breaking something. Best regards: Fermin (Also sorry for my english, it's not my first language.) Hello again: Here's the pic of my 98 Boxster! Finally! Regards Fermin Hello Maurice: About... The other possibility for that "independent of each other dropping of the windows upon pulling the convertible top latch" may be a faulty double relay (kick panel to the left of your left calf as you sit in the driver's seat ), so it might be worth checking that out, maybe even with another member's working relay. I finally decided to give the double relay mentionned a good pull. Once I had it in hand I tapped it on a hard surface (as mentionned in one of your posts) and when installed again the light went OFF ! but as soon as I open the top, the idiot dash light goes ON and it stays ON, again pulled out the relay, tapped again on a hard surface, and the light goes OFF with the top open, windows go up all the way!! yes!! but as soon as I close the convertible top, light goes ON again and... stays ON, so I belive is a faulty double relay, don't you think so? I'll try to get one at the dealer tomorrow,I think is an expensive relay, but I'm quite sure it will cure the problem, hope so! Best regards: Fermin

Hello everybody! Need some help on how to acces the B-pillar microswitch of my convertible top. I can see the wires going to it but I'm afaraid of pulling and braking something on the carpeted/plastic cover. Any advise on how do I can get to it? Thanks in advance and best regards to you all! Fermin

Guy: First of all, we like photos and we try to avoid other Dealers whenever practicable. ....balljoint with the shaft, replaced it, top works fine but the dash light stills on and the windows will not go full up when the top is down.... There are two instances where the light can stay on abnormally. The one you are describing here (top all the way open) is controlled in part by the black lever microswitch that resides on top of the convertible top electric motor ((Just forward of the third brake light). In other part, it is controlled by the Double Relay in the driver's side kickpanel. It's the only double relay there so you can't miss it... You can temporarily defeat this little annoyance by devising either a stack of 1/4" thick blocks of semi-sturdy styrofoam and installing them one a time, on top of the electric motor housing, or, better yet, under the clamshell where it makes contact with that "Black Lever Microswitch. Alternatively, some garages have used a different method, which includes installing (by glue) a suitable spring on the underside of the clamshell such that it will trip the black lever microswith a tad sooner and thereby "fool" the top into "thinking" that it is time to start the "comfort close feature" or "after-running time) as Porsche usually refers to it in its manuals. Here you just have to make sure that the spring can hit, and then DEPRESS" the black lever microswitch. Let us know how you make out and what, if any symptoms have left. Unless the dealer is in a good mood, avoid it like the proverbial plague. FYI, this is one of the few (perhaps even the "only") area of the early (i.e., "A Version") transmissions and set-up that still is providing a bit of a challenge. However, some of you description may provide some useful info to add to the community wisdom here, so, We'll see how that tidbit develops. In the meantime, try the two solutions I suggested and report back. ...decide to change the two micro switchs, the one at the brake lever, and the one at the latch, light is on again, and stills ON.... The brake lever microswitch, when the dashboard idiot light is illuminated, is normal when you pull up on the handbrake and... that is what lets you know that power to the convertible top motor is going to be turned on. The other microswtich (actually there are TWO inside that latch assembly) is the one that has to get tripped/released, in order to keep working properly. If your windows drop the requisite (approximately 4 inches) when you pull on it, then at least one of the two microswitches inside the latch assembly is just fine. To check out the other one, do a search here or go to Mike Focke's Boxster Pages (Google it) to get a number of articles that will familiarize you with the top. ..Congratulations on your new ride.! and remember, we LOVE pics.... .Best Regards, Maurice. Hello Maurice: Thanks a lot for your reply. I just tried two layers, one at a time, of 1/4 in black, self stick medium density foam, gluing them on the micro switch contact point on the clamshell without success, do I have to use a more dense foam? Also tried michaelwakers123's 1 second more on the switch, and also it didn't make any difference. I did not visualise how to install the spring you told me to try, again should I use a more strudy foam? Two more observations: When I unlatch the top, the windos drops 4 inches, stand for a sec or two, and the they drop, one at a time totally, some time the two, sometimes just one. When I open the top, and when it get's at the end of the cycle, when I hear the motor begin to stress and the clamshell is fully closed, if I push the top switch again to continue the cycle, it seems to me that the clamshell tries to open again, weird, isn't it? As for the dealer, well I went there to have some of my car's history. But I'll try to find a independent gagrage, cause the only thing "high end" there is the overpriced service, well overpriced, and it seems to me that they do not have any interest in working with older cars, should be their pride! Again thanks a lot and I do not know what to try anymore, maybe as m2 suggested, the tensioner cables? Have a nice day! Fermin I did try to attach a pic of my ride, but file too big, so I'll try to take a more "light" pic this week end. Fermin: We are definitely on the same page, especially the part that expressed the sentiment that their "older" cars should be the source of tremendous pride...I guess it just doesn't accrue to their proverbial bottom line...It's a short-sighted view in my experience, but greed or financial obligations of certain dealer's make it so. Shame of them....literally! .... ..... Anyway, the fact that you mention that your windows sort of drop independently of each other may mean that there is some moisture/damage/corrosion in the immobiliser unit (under the driver's seat, small, flat, black box). That unit gets wet if the convertible top drains are not always kept clear, as that causes water ingress (and, of course, the water promptly finds its way into the passenger cabin and toasts the unit! The other possibility for that "independent of each other dropping of the windows upon pulling the convertible top latch" may be a faulty double relay (kick panel to the left of your left calf as you sit in the driver's seat ), so it might be worth checking that out, maybe even with another member's working relay. The article that I referred you to will show you photos of the two different types of relays (i.e., Black Triangle on its top surface or Black Rectangle/Square on the top surface of the double relay). With respect to the spring, it has to be a reasonably subtantial one that gets glued on or attached to the underside of the clamshell, but it size (perhaps conical, tapered on the end that faces the black lever microswitch on top of the electric motor. The sping then compresses to not interfere with the tight fitting clamshell when it is full down. It's a little Rube Goldberg, but some mechanics have used it successfully. As far as weirdness: "...When I open the top, and when it get's at the end of the cycle, when I hear the motor begin to stress and the clamshell is fully closed, if I push the top switch again to continue the cycle, it seems to me that the clamshell tries to open again, weird, isn't it?..." , it's not so weird. There are a number of factors which affect that last little bit of travel of the leading edge of the convertible top frame...The amount of tension on the tensioner cables which act on the rearmost main bow, the overall length of the front pushrods, AND, on '97 to '99 Boxsters, there is also the bend in the silver metal tiny arm of the B-Pillar Microswitch to consider. If the B-pillar microswitch's lever is too "open" from its original shape, that will cause it to contact (and then be tripped by) the base of the B-pillar of the convertible top frame. That may also explain the "weird" nature of the problem as that contact causes a signal to travel through the wires to the double relay, which then "dictates": to the electric motor when to stop turning the V-levers. You can experiment with shortening/lengthening the overall length of the front pushrods, as that will also affect how the leading edges of the top will line up with the windshield frame. Note that it is NOT a linear progression and that, once you reach maximum extension, the V-levers will continue to spin for 1 of 2 seconds and then you will notice that the top starts to pull back. It can then "rock" back and forth, so keep that in mind. If, as you mentioned in an earlier post, you have to "pull the front of the top " to make it stretch a little to get it into the fully closed and latched position, then that is something that you can try to ameliorate by adjusting the overall length of the front pushrods: loosen the 10mm bolt with fat washer (after marking your starting position with nail polish or something equivalent) and push the two parts of each one together VERY SLIGHTLY and then tighten the 10mm bolt back on . Be careful with the 10mm bolt and fat washer because the drain hole underneath the V-levers area seems to have magical magnetic properties HaHa)and it has eaten many stray bolts and such. LOL! M2's suggestions is a good one, so , see Keep us posted and I'm looking forward to seeing pics. Regards, Maurice. Hello Maurice: First of all, THANKS A LOT! for taking time to do a very nice,long, detailed and helpfull replies! I did check under the driver's seat carpet, and it looks very clean and no traces of water, but it could be cleaned by the previous owner. On my relay board I have two double relays, tried to pull the one marked with a yellow arrouw, but very difficult and I'm sacred to break something, is that the top relay? it's black, no marks at all! Also I forgot to mention, the previous owner told the used car lot where I got the car, that the convertible top was replaced three years ago,and the fellow that sold me the car, told me to be carefull closing the top and verify for the correct aligment on the two sides, to push the cables inside the frame, before colpetely coling the top. Actually, I have problems most with the driver's side, I noted (trying to find the B-pillar micro, where is it?) that on this side, there's a little retainer pin broken, the one in the picture, other side is OK, this might be causing the alignment problem, but not the dash light ON, isn't it? Finally, I hope, a picture of my ride! for me it was a dream to have a Boxster, and liked a lot the firsts ones, so after 30 years of work and raised a familly, finally I got it! Thanks again, I'll try to work on the alignment of the pushrods, being very careful, I'm allways scared of breaking something. Best regards: Fermin (Also sorry for my english, it's not my first language.) Hello again: Here's the pic of my 98 Boxster! Finally! Regards Fermin