Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

MH996TT

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    26
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by MH996TT

  1. The smell persists. I think I will lift the car and look for problems in the fuel tank compartment. Does anyone have a schematic or exploded view of this this area?
  2. So far nothing. Still need need to pull the battery tray and do more cleaning. Loren, not sure I know where you were telling me to look. I checked under the plastic cover JP recommended. So far no evidence outside the battery area. JP, not to get off topic on my own thread but I'd be interested to hear more about the clutch fluid problem you worked on. Did you end up getting it fixed? I've had a rag under my reservoir for years. Always thought it ws just a leaky cap...
  3. I'm on it... Thanks That is the grommet and I think the critter chewed the bottom of the funnel because the hole at the bottom does not look factory... From your statement it sounds like it does not lead anywhere an animal would get stuck and die. That is the wire bundle. It looks like you might have separated the wires a bit. Did you do that to inspect them? I think that is what I should do to verify there aren't any shorts. I can't thank you enough for your input.
  4. first off thank you guys for jumping in and helping... JP, thank you for correcting me, I did mean to say the clutch res. Are you familiar with the grommet? I would guess that there normally isn't an oddly shaped hole in the bottom...? Looking at your picture of the clutch res, it is directly below the forward most fitting of the green line shown. Does that lead to the area that Loren was referring to? Is there a way in there from below? Also, how would I get to the area that Loren mentioned if it is different form the one below the grommet? You've also brought up a good point about the wiring. it looks like there has been some foul play at the large wiring junction but I used a mirror and a bright light and I can't find any evidence that any of wire insulation was chewed through. Hopefully the only damage there was to the tape/wrap. Thank you for posting the pictures too. Loren, your emoticon looks a lot like me right now...
  5. I have been disassembling the front of my 01 TT looking for the source of a bad smell. There is evidence that a mouse or something has been in the compartment where the battery, brake fluid reservoir, and cabin air filter are located. My main question is: what is below the sheet metal floor directly underneath the brake fluid reservoir? There is a black funnel shaped grommet that appears to have been chewed through and possibly used as an escape route. I would like to access this area to see if the animal died in there but I thought I'd check with you guys first and get some advice on the best way to get in there to clean it out. Thank you
  6. Hello All, I recently felt a snap in the ignition while starting the car. Now the key does not fully engage the zero position and the car thinks the key is in even when it is not. Is this fixed by replacing the key cylinder or does it require the whole assembly. Thanks **Please ignore this post I found the answer in one of the links.**
  7. Hello all, Does anyone have any tricks for releasing the diverter valve hose clamps when they are rotated all the way to the back side of the hose? They are the spring type clamp and I am completely stuck. Is there a fancy curved pliers that would reach around? I have the rear most dv removed but the clamps on the forward diverter are both seemingly impossible to reach with a pair of pliers. Thank you very much in advance. this should have been easy but these clamps... :help: :help: Matt
  8. The manual suggests to bleed steering system the "usual way". I take that to mean fill the reservoir, turn the steering wheel and recheck, and repeat until the level in the res stops dropping. correct or not???
  9. If I could get one more push in the right direction, I think I will have this problem fixed and my car back on the road while there are still a few leaves on the trees. Loren and PTEC, thanks a ton for taking the time to help me out... I have a new clutch slave cylinder and a new pressure accumulator. I am replacing both because I want to make sure I fix it and I don’t want to get back under there anytime soon… I have read the repair manual for these procedures but as many of you probably know, the German English is a little vague. Can someone please describe the Pentosin fill and bleed procedure? Some basic questions that I have are: 1. Does the slave cylinder or pressure accumulator need to be primed with Pentosin? 2. Is it difficult to get the slave cyl. Pushrod aligned? 3. Can I use a hand pump bleeder to bleed the system? 4. How do I avoid over filling? 5. Is there more than one bleed location? I know about the one on the slave. 6. Any other obscure tips to keep me from causing unneeded damage? Sorry for all the questions. I promise to attempt a DIY post for this if I am successful TIA
  10. PTEC, Thanks for the tip. What is the best way to depressurize the accumulator? I was hoping that since it is leaking the pressure would be low - maybe not low enough? Do you normally just replace the sealing ring? Thanks again...
  11. OK, I am 97% sure that the leak is coming from the fitting for the accumulator. I spent a half hour laying under the car cleaning and wiping and watching this thing drip. The fluid will gather around the area where the accumulator fitting meets the master cylinder. Does anyone (Loren :help: ) know what would be the tool of choice for the R&R? I tried a 19mm with no luck. A 21mm seems like it would be too big... Not sure if this is possible but it would be a lot cheaper to change just the o-ring if that is what failed... Matt
  12. The steering was groaning so I added 2 cups pentosin to PS back in the engine bay (dipstick was bone dry). The more I look at diagrams and crawl under the car, the more I realize I have no idea where the PS routing is located. Thanks for the help... Matt
  13. Loren, The fixture that the accumulator screws into has a small diameter rubber line clipped directly above where the accumulator screws in. The leak is either from that hose very near the accumulator fitting or accumulator fitting itself. If it is the accumulator fitting, that would mean that the PS circuit and the clutch both use the accumulator? Thanks again for the help...
  14. In my effort to find the PS fluid leak I have narrowed it down to somewhere directly above or below the clutch system pressure accumulator (plastic spherical pressure vessle) mounted above the right rear axel. My new questions are as follows: 1. Is the PS fluid circuit seperate from all other hydraulic systems (ie. clutch) 2. Is it as hard as it looks to remove and replace the PS lines back by the axel? 3. Any chance there would be any DIY info on this matter? TIA Matt
  15. Thanks for the fast reply Loren. I'm guessing that the rubber was rubbed through since I watched a technician tie it back because he noticed it was rubbing.
  16. Can anyone confirm that a large steering fluid leak in front of the engine is most likely one of the rubber steering fluid lines. If so, how could I tell which lines are which in the PET6 diagram. I would imagine they are pretty easy to replace... Thanks
  17. My 01 came with OE 996.606.124. I tried the 125 but that caused a lot of CELs. Bought the 124 from the dealer and everything has been fine ever since. The K&N filter is what caused the problem in the first place. Switched back to an OE filter and everything has worked fine since. good luck
  18. wross, what are the chances that there are two tricked out black turbos driving around out here? I must have been too busy staring at the front bumper and ride hieght that I completely missed that it was a cab. Any idea how many 996TTs there are in the boulder area? 5? 100? more? Anyway, if you see some kook in a blue 996TT, green explorer or silver X5, waving at you, it will most likely be me. On911: Sorry to hijack the thread. One mod suggestion would be sway bars. I've not done this yet but I've read that it significantly improves handling for reletively little $. And the list goes on and on... Good Luck
  19. I agree with the others that an oiled K&N might give you MAF problems. I'll sell you the one I tried to use on my 01 for about 20 miles. My guess is that the oil from the filter contaminate the MAF a little and set off the CEL. I went back to a OE dry filter and stopped having problems. I'm not sure how your suspension is doing but my 01 with 25k miles was begging for some new suspension. I went with KW V3 and couldn't be happier. Good Luck On911, it sounds like you have a long and exciting mod plan. OT: Ross, do you drive your car on 36 north of Bldr and down Neva rd. I recently moved back to CO and found a rental out at LV. I see a Black 996TT with a GT2 wing, lowered and exhaust driving around out there.
  20. Do a search for "intermediate shaft" for clicking noise. As for the whirring, I'm not sure... Do you live in Socal? If so, I had a great expeience when I took my car to Callas Rennsport in Torrance. Let me know if you'd like more details... Matt
  21. I am in the same boat Chip. You would think that there are probably a lot of stock, wartless bumpers out there that have been discarded for a fancy after market cover. All you guys that are sitting on genuine Porsche front bumper covers (late 01 to 05) need to set those parts free. There are deformed 996 TT's out there that need those parts (Lapis Blue). Matt
  22. My car is lowered and I went with a lip from the C4S. It has a lower profile and it doesn't have the extra forward turned lip that the turbo one has. It fits perfectly, only about $200, it doesn't rub the ground as easily and it doesn't get as messed up when it you do scrape it on the ground. As for aero affects, I'll let you know the next I get going that fast... Matt
  23. http://www.bmracing.com/index.php?id=produ...cat=3&subcat=15 Go to products and choose Porsche
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.