mbagge01

Hey loren, I actually figured it out on my 2003 cayenne turbo. I tapped into pin 10 on my headlight switch which is the illumination wire for the switch.

I am installing a boost gauge and have found plenty of switch 12v fuses but cannot find one that only turns on with the lights on. I have one wire to the gauge that works as a dimmer. Anyone know where I could tap into a line that activates with exterior lights on.

I was hoping someone may have tips on how to search for a parastic battery drain on a 2003 cayenne turbo. I know that it can be difficult with vehicles that have CANBUS systems. I have had our battery go dead after just after a few days of not driving the car multiple times and the current battery (duralast platinum) is only a year and a half old. I am going to test the battery to make sure that it is not bad already but I wanted to also see if I could search for some electrical system draining the battery. My wife frequently does not lock the car when parked in the garage. Could electrical systems be running if the you do not lock the doors after parking the car. I also have an aftermaket alpine headunit and replaced all the interior lights with LED's.

I have a 2003 cayenne turbo that developed this sudden and intermittent coolant leak and hoping the wisdom of the forum members can give me some advice. The vehicle had the aluminum coolant pipes and replacement T pipes placed about 4 years ago. I replaced the coolant reservoir cap with part 1J0121321B about 2 years ago. My coolant reservoir is 7L0121407C which I am assuming is the original reservoir given the part number starting with 7L0. This last week, I took a couple long trips on the highway in 80 degree weather and upon arriving home today after a 3 hour drive, as soon as I got out of the car there was a sudden pouring of coolant from the behind the passenger wheel well. I went to remove the coolant reservoir cap and depressurizing the system seem to get it to slow down and stop but I did also notice a sudden drop in the coolant level in the reservoir. I filled the reservoir up and took it for another drive later in the day with the car at operating temperature and when I stopped the car again, some fluid at a slower rate started dripping again from behind the passenger wheel well, stopping by removing the reservoir valve. On both occasions, I looked under to hood and around all the reservoir hose connections and top of reservoir around its seal and did not see any obvious leaking or wetness. After doing some research on this forum, it has been suggested that it could be a bad reservoir cap or leaking reservoir. Could it be leaking on the underside of the reservoir that I cannot visualize or are there other coolant parts in this area that could be leaking when the car is shut off. I do not see any leaking with the car is running and the coolant gauge remains at the middle which I would guess means the water pump is fine. If it just needs a reservoir replacement, I can easily do that but don't want to just throw parts at fixing it if unsure of the problem.

glad to here lewisweller. At full throttle, both fuel pumps kick in so at some point you might consider replacing the right side also if you car has a lots of miles on it.

Lewisweller, make sure you check the vacuum line with the T connector which is hidden behind the intake manifold and connects exhaust lines from the turbos to the crankcase. Mine was cracked and fixing it did help.

Lewisweller, I would get looking around for a vacuum leak somewhere. I must have changed my spark plugs with different models 10 times and the car always feels great at first and then the problems resurface. Have you tried disconnecting the battery and resetting everything because that can help when new parts are installed

I did also find a tear in my divertor valve line to the solenoid which was not showing up on a boost pressure test but was occurring under vacuum. Also check the lines on the back of the intake which are hard to see. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I reduced my spark plug gap to .026mm which was recommended by EVOM who I got my tune from. They recommend Denso Platinum TT plugs

It ended up being that I had a leak in the vacuum line going to the wastegates as if would not hold pressure when tested and also a leak in the boost control lines to the turbo. They were not massive leaks but when tested under prolonged pressure, they would not maintain pressure.

I bought both ballasts from a reputable company (not ebay) and they are genuine valeo (not stamped OEM porsche though). The strange thing is that the one ballast that throws the error still turns on the light and functions appropriately except for the dash error.

So, I seem to have found a fix to the headlight adjustment error I was getting but not entirely sure how to explain it and maybe someone on here might have some insight. I initially replaced both d1s bulbs and headlight control modules (ballasts) and was getting the error, but with both lights working fine. The new ballasts I placed had the same hardware and software part numbers, but different from the older ballasts that were in the car. I then went and changed the right sided ballast back to the old one and the error went away. When I placed the new one back in, the error returned. Given both ballasts are the same part number and turn on the light appropriately why would one of them cause the headlight adjustment error. Could it be an short somewhere on the internal wiring of the ballast causing the error or do some ballast require programming.

Lewisweller, what cord are you using to connect vcds to your cayenne. I have tried my durametric and vagcom cord and cannot access the control module. I am using the most recent vcds software on an 04 cayenne turbo.

The ballasts are oem. I have vcds so I will check it as you have shown.

Loren, I changed the xenon control modules (ballasts) on both headlights. Does that require calibration if nothing else changes and can it be done with durametric. I have changed a ballast in the past with no issue

I have the same issue and read that the error could be from one of the level sensors connected to the wheels, which can break because they inform how to aim the headlights if you are going up or downhill. That is going to be the next thing I check. I believe that there is a front and rear sensor.

Those things are fine. I am going to check my headlight leveling sensors but would appreciate if anyone knew which wheels have them

I just replaced my d1s bulbs and the ballasts and after a couple times on turning the lights on, I am getting the check headlight beam adjustment error. The lights move up and down as usual when first turned on. Do new ballast need to be calibrated? I also read that it could be my headlight level sensors on the wheels. What wheels are they located or do all 4 wheels have them. I do not see any modules in durametric that I can use to determine the error.

Lewisweller, the passenger precat is very easy to replace compared to the drivers side. You can easily reach it with your hand from under neath the car. If I remember correctly, I used an angled ratchet socket with a long extension and from above and below helped to slide it on to the O2 sensor. Once you loosen the sensor, you can unscrew it from below with your hand and then place the new one.

If I did tap into the stock we ideband harness, would I not tap the heater lines so that an aftermarket system would not cause problems with the stock system

From what i have been able to find out, the front O2 sensors are wideband and the post cat sensors are narrow band

After doing a little more research I found a very detailed answer. For anyone else who was wondering, read the 5th post on this forum. http://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-cayenne-forum/920215-a-bit-of-955-ecu-electronics-info-reset-your-cluster-with-vcds.html

Does anyone know if our OBD2 connectors on the 955 cayenne communicate diagnostics through CAN protocol or is it through old K line transmission. I could not find a diagram if there are CAN high and low wires on this model car at the OBD2 port. I know that from 2008 on it is mandatory of all US vehicles but some older models could do it.

One other thing could possible be the check valves not functioning properly and letting boost pass by in the wrong direction.

I agree with JFP. Check all those vacuum lines at the back of the intake manifold. Also the one line I found snapped that caused similar symptoms lewisweller is the T-connector at the very back of the engine hidden down by the firewall that connects exhaust lines from the turbos and runs to the front of the engine and connects to the crankcase ventilation. It is a very common piece that can break and be overlooked when tracking down leaks.